The first thing I would check is the fuses. For this, they’re usually in the car on the driver's side. Refer to the fuse guide on the cover and verify it with a multimeter. ***If you don't own a multimeter, gett a $50-100 auto-range True RMS multimeter, such as a Klein like this: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Klein-Tools-Digital-Multimeter-TRMS-Auto-Ranging-600V-Temp/5014305581 ($60, 4,000 count) or this: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Klein-Tools-Digital-Multimeter-TRMS-Auto-Ranging-1000V-Temp-Low-Impedance/5014305523 ($100, 6,000 count).***
-
***If you do not intend to use it beyond DC work, a relatively inexpensive Cat III from a place like Harbor Freight is an option. Try to get one with Cat III, but avoid purchasing anything that lacks a Cat III rating. This one is lacking TRMS, so it will be prone to inaccuracies on non-linear circuits, but it is cheap at $40 as-is, and you can probably find a coupon to get it down a bit more:*** https://www.harborfreight.com/electrical/electrician-s-tools/multimeters-testers/dm600-compact-digital-multimeter-64014.html
+
***If you do not intend to use it beyond DC work, a relatively inexpensive Cat III from a place like Harbor Freight is an option. Try to get one with Cat III, Cat II and older should be avoided. This one is lacking TRMS which means it will be prone to inaccuracies on non-linear circuits, but it is cheap at $40 (and you can probably use a coupon to get it down more):*** https://www.harborfreight.com/electrical/electrician-s-tools/multimeters-testers/dm600-compact-digital-multimeter-64014.html
-
***If you do not see any bad fuses, then the next step I would take is to check the wiring on the car where the switch is and verify that the harness is receiving power. If you see 12V on the harness connected to the chassis, then we know the car is receiving power.*** You can usually remove this from most GM products from this era by removing one screw, but some have tabs that are easily broken; in this case, you need to use extreme care or take the door card off and dislodge them from the inside to avoid damage.
+
***If you do not see any bad fuses, then the next step I would take is to check the wiring on the car where the switch is and verify that the harness is receiving power. If you see 12V on the harness connected to the chassis, then we know the car is receiving power.*** You can usually remove this from most GM products from this era by removing one screw, but some have tabs that are easily broken. In this case, you need to use extreme care or remove the door card and dislodge them from the inside to avoid damage.
***This is for the 2008 year, so it should be the same for 2008-2012, but if you want an exact diagram, search: (model year) Chevy Malibu electrical diagram***: https://www.scribd.com/document/714555321/2008-Chevrolet-Malibu-System-Wiring-Diagrams-Online-Pdf-Download
[quote|format=featured]
***If you want to be absolutely sure that the regulator is faulty, use a 9V battery or a 12V SLA battery, such as those found in a UPS or a car, and then determine the polarity (again, using the DMM). if it says -0V means you reversed the polarity (and know which one is negative), 0V means it is positive to negative, and you found the positive. Take note of the pinout and connect a battery to it directly with the door card removed for easy access. If the regulator moves with nothing else connected, the door panel switch is broken. Both are very common faults in GM vehicles. If it gets power, the door card switch is broken - not the regulator.***
[/quote]
If you’ve checked both of these and it isn't off track, where you can remove the door card to reseat the window, then the regulator is bad. At that point, without a model number, we’re stuck, but if you search (Model year) Chevy Malibu (bad) window regulator. At that point, I would also look for a matched year service manual to make sure you have the correct procedure for your car, as it can change slightly between years.
The first thing I would check is the fuses. For this, they’re usually in the car on the driver's side. Refer to the fuse guide on the cover and verify it with a multimeter. ***If you don't own a multimeter, gett a $50-100 auto-range True RMS multimeter, such as a Klein like this: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Klein-Tools-Digital-Multimeter-TRMS-Auto-Ranging-600V-Temp/5014305581 ($60, 4,000 count) or this: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Klein-Tools-Digital-Multimeter-TRMS-Auto-Ranging-1000V-Temp-Low-Impedance/5014305523 ($100, 6,000 count).***
***If you do not intend to use it beyond DC work, a relatively inexpensive Cat III from a place like Harbor Freight is an option. Try to get one with Cat III, but avoid purchasing anything that lacks a Cat III rating. This one is lacking TRMS, so it will be prone to inaccuracies on non-linear circuits, but it is cheap at $40 as-is, and you can probably find a coupon to get it down a bit more:*** https://www.harborfreight.com/electrical/electrician-s-tools/multimeters-testers/dm600-compact-digital-multimeter-64014.html
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[quote|format=featured]
-
***If you do not see any bad fuses, then the next step I would take is to check the wiring on the car and verify that the harness is receiving power. If you see 12V on the harness connected to the chassis, then we know the car is receiving power.***
+
***If you do not see any bad fuses, then the next step I would take is to check the wiring on the car where the switch is and verify that the harness is receiving power. If you see 12V on the harness connected to the chassis, then we know the car is receiving power.*** You can usually remove this from most GM products from this era by removing one screw, but some have tabs that are easily broken; in this case, you need to use extreme care or take the door card off and dislodge them from the inside to avoid damage.
-
[/quote]
***This is for the 2008 year, so it should be the same for 2008-2012, but if you want an exact diagram, search: (model year) Chevy Malibu electrical diagram***: https://www.scribd.com/document/714555321/2008-Chevrolet-Malibu-System-Wiring-Diagrams-Online-Pdf-Download
[quote|format=featured]
-
***If you want to be absolutely sure that the regulator is faulty, use a 9V battery or a 12V SLA battery, such as those found in a UPS or a car, and then determine the polarity (again, using the DMM). if it says -0V means you reversed the polarity (and know which one is negative), 0V means it is positive to negative, and you found the positive. Take note of the pinout and connect a battery to it. If the regulator moves with nothing else connected, the door panel switch is broken. Both are very common faults in GM vehicles. If it gets power, the door card switch is broken - not the regulator.***
+
***If you want to be absolutely sure that the regulator is faulty, use a 9V battery or a 12V SLA battery, such as those found in a UPS or a car, and then determine the polarity (again, using the DMM). if it says -0V means you reversed the polarity (and know which one is negative), 0V means it is positive to negative, and you found the positive. Take note of the pinout and connect a battery to it directly with the door card removed for easy access. If the regulator moves with nothing else connected, the door panel switch is broken. Both are very common faults in GM vehicles. If it gets power, the door card switch is broken - not the regulator.***
[/quote]
If you’ve checked both of these and it isn't off track, where you can remove the door card to reseat the window, then the regulator is bad. At that point, without a model number, we’re stuck, but if you search (Model year) Chevy Malibu (bad) window regulator. At that point, I would also look for a matched year service manual to make sure you have the correct procedure for your car, as it can change slightly between years.
The first thing I would check is the fuses. For this, they’re usually in the car on the driver's side. Refer to the fuse guide on the cover and verify it with a multimeter. ***If you don't own a multimeter, gett a $50-100 auto-range True RMS multimeter, such as a Klein like this: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Klein-Tools-Digital-Multimeter-TRMS-Auto-Ranging-600V-Temp/5014305581 ($60, 4,000 count) or this: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Klein-Tools-Digital-Multimeter-TRMS-Auto-Ranging-1000V-Temp-Low-Impedance/5014305523 ($100, 6,000 count).***
-
***If you do not intend to use it beyond DC work, a relatively inexpensive Cat III from a place like Harbor Freight is an option. Try to get one with Cat III, but do not buy anything that lacks the Cat III rating. This one is lacking TRMS so it will be prone to inaccuracies on nonlinear circuits but it is cheap at $40 as-is and you can probably find a coupon to get it down a bit more: https://www.harborfreight.com/electrical/electrician-s-tools/multimeters-testers/dm600-compact-digital-multimeter-64014.html***
+
***If you do not intend to use it beyond DC work, a relatively inexpensive Cat III from a place like Harbor Freight is an option. Try to get one with Cat III, but avoid purchasing anything that lacks a Cat III rating. This one is lacking TRMS, so it will be prone to inaccuracies on non-linear circuits, but it is cheap at $40 as-is, and you can probably find a coupon to get it down a bit more:*** https://www.harborfreight.com/electrical/electrician-s-tools/multimeters-testers/dm600-compact-digital-multimeter-64014.html
-
***TRMS Cat III they sell.*** If you do not see any bad fuses, then the next step I would take is to check the wiring on the car and verify that the harness is receiving power. If you see 12V on the harness connected to the chassis, then we know the car is receiving power.
+
[quote|format=featured]
+
***If you do not see any bad fuses, then the next step I would take is to check the wiring on the car and verify that the harness is receiving power. If you see 12V on the harness connected to the chassis, then we know the car is receiving power.***
+
[/quote]
***This is for the 2008 year, so it should be the same for 2008-2012, but if you want an exact diagram, search: (model year) Chevy Malibu electrical diagram***: https://www.scribd.com/document/714555321/2008-Chevrolet-Malibu-System-Wiring-Diagrams-Online-Pdf-Download
[quote|format=featured]
***If you want to be absolutely sure that the regulator is faulty, use a 9V battery or a 12V SLA battery, such as those found in a UPS or a car, and then determine the polarity (again, using the DMM). if it says -0V means you reversed the polarity (and know which one is negative), 0V means it is positive to negative, and you found the positive. Take note of the pinout and connect a battery to it. If the regulator moves with nothing else connected, the door panel switch is broken. Both are very common faults in GM vehicles. If it gets power, the door card switch is broken - not the regulator.***
[/quote]
If you’ve checked both of these and it isn't off track, where you can remove the door card to reseat the window, then the regulator is bad. At that point, without a model number, we’re stuck, but if you search (Model year) Chevy Malibu (bad) window regulator. At that point, I would also look for a matched year service manual to make sure you have the correct procedure for your car, as it can change slightly between years.
The first thing I would check is the fuses. For this, they’re usually in the car on the driver's side. Refer to the fuse guide on the cover and verify it with a multimeter. ***If you don't own a multimeter, gett a $50-100 auto-range True RMS multimeter, such as a Klein. If you do not intend to use it beyond DC work, a relatively cheap Cat III TRMS DMM from a place like Harbor Freight could be used, like the AMES TRMS Cat III they sell.*** If you do not see any bad fuses, then the next step I would take is to check the wiring on the car and verify that the harness is receiving power. If you see 12V on the harness on the chassis, then we know the car is getting power.[br]
-
This is for the 2008 year, so it should be the same for 2008-2012, but if you want an exact diagram, search: ***(model year) Chevy Malibu electrical diagram***: https://www.scribd.com/document/714555321/2008-Chevrolet-Malibu-System-Wiring-Diagrams-Online-Pdf-Download
+
The first thing I would check is the fuses. For this, they’re usually in the car on the driver's side. Refer to the fuse guide on the cover and verify it with a multimeter. ***If you don't own a multimeter, gett a $50-100 auto-range True RMS multimeter, such as a Klein like this: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Klein-Tools-Digital-Multimeter-TRMS-Auto-Ranging-600V-Temp/5014305581 ($60, 4,000 count) or this: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Klein-Tools-Digital-Multimeter-TRMS-Auto-Ranging-1000V-Temp-Low-Impedance/5014305523 ($100, 6,000 count).***
+
***If you do not intend to use it beyond DC work, a relatively inexpensive Cat III from a place like Harbor Freight is an option. Try to get one with Cat III, but do not buy anything that lacks the Cat III rating. This one is lacking TRMS so it will be prone to inaccuracies on non linear circuits but it is cheap at $40 as-is and you can probably find a coupon to get it down a bit more: https://www.harborfreight.com/electrical/electrician-s-tools/multimeters-testers/dm600-compact-digital-multimeter-64014.html***
+
+
***TRMS Cat III they sell.*** If you do not see any bad fuses, then the next step I would take is to check the wiring on the car and verify that the harness is receiving power. If you see 12V on the harness connected to the chassis, then we know the car is receiving power.
+
+
***This is for the 2008 year, so it should be the same for 2008-2012, but if you want an exact diagram, search: (model year) Chevy Malibu electrical diagram***: https://www.scribd.com/document/714555321/2008-Chevrolet-Malibu-System-Wiring-Diagrams-Online-Pdf-Download
+
+
[quote|format=featured]
+
***If you want to be absolutely sure that the regulator is faulty, use a 9V battery or a 12V SLA battery, such as those found in a UPS or a car, and then determine the polarity (again, using the DMM). if it says -0V means you reversed the polarity (and know which one is negative), 0V means it is positive to negative, and you found the positive. Take note of the pinout and connect a battery to it. If the regulator moves with nothing else connected, the door panel switch is broken. Both are very common faults in GM vehicles. If it gets power, the door card switch is broken - not the regulator.***
+
+
[/quote]
If you’ve checked both of these and it isn't off track, where you can remove the door card to reseat the window, then the regulator is bad. At that point, without a model number, we’re stuck, but if you search (Model year) Chevy Malibu (bad) window regulator. At that point, I would also look for a matched year service manual to make sure you have the correct procedure for your car, as it can change slightly between years.
The first thing I would check is the fuses. For this, they’re usually in the car on the driver's side. Refer to the fuse guide on the cover and verify it with a multimeter. ***If you don't own a multimeter, gett a $50-100 auto-range True RMS multimeter, such as a Klein. If you do not intend to use it beyond DC work, a relatively cheap Cat III TRMS DMM from a place like Harbor Freight could be used, like the AMES TRMS Cat III they sell.*** If you do not see any bad fuses, then the next step I would take is to check the wiring on the car and verify that the harness is receiving power. If you see 12V on the harness on the chassis, then we know the car is getting power.[br]
This is for the 2008 year, so it should be the same for 2008-2012, but if you want an exact diagram, search: ***(model year) Chevy Malibu electrical diagram***: https://www.scribd.com/document/714555321/2008-Chevrolet-Malibu-System-Wiring-Diagrams-Online-Pdf-Download
-
If you’ve checked both of these, then the regulator is bad. At that point, without a model number, we’re stuck, but if you search (Model year) Chevy Malibu (bad) window regulator. At that point, I would also look for a matched year service manual to makeyou have the correct procedure for your car, as it can change slightly between years.
+
If you’ve checked both of these and it isn't off track, where you can remove the door card to reseat the window, then the regulator is bad. At that point, without a model number, we’re stuck, but if you search (Model year) Chevy Malibu (bad) window regulator. At that point, I would also look for a matched year service manual to make sure you have the correct procedure for your car, as it can change slightly between years.
First thing I would check is the fuses. For this they’re usually in the car on the driver side. Take a look at the fuse guide and check it with a multimeter. ***If you do not own a multimeter, get yourself a $50-100 auto range True RMS Klein.*** If you do not see any bad fuses, then the next thing I would do is check the wiring on the car and see if the harness is receiving power. If you see 12V on the harness on the chassis, then we know the car is getting power.
+
The first thing I would check is the fuses. For this, they’re usually in the car on the driver's side. Refer to the fuse guide on the cover and verify it with a multimeter. ***If you don't own a multimeter, gett a $50-100 auto-range True RMS multimeter, such as a Klein. If you do not intend to use it beyond DC work, a relatively cheap Cat III TRMS DMM from a place like Harbor Freight could be used, like the AMES TRMS Cat III they sell.*** If you do not see any bad fuses, then the next step I would take is to check the wiring on the car and verify that the harness is receiving power. If you see 12V on the harness on the chassis, then we know the car is getting power.[br]
+
This is for the 2008 year, so it should be the same for 2008-2012, but if you want an exact diagram, search: ***(model year) Chevy Malibu electrical diagram***: https://www.scribd.com/document/714555321/2008-Chevrolet-Malibu-System-Wiring-Diagrams-Online-Pdf-Download
-
If you’ve checked both of these, then the regulator is bad. At that point without a model number we’re stuck but if you search ***(Model year) Chevy Malibu (bad) window regulator***. At that point I would also look for a service manual to make sure you have the procedure which is correct for your car as it can change between years in slight ways.
+
If you’ve checked both of these, then the regulator is bad. At that point, without a model number, we’re stuck, but if you search (Model year) Chevy Malibu (bad) window regulator. At that point, I would also look for a matched year service manual to makeyou have the correct procedure for your car, as it can change slightly between years.
First thing I would check is the fuses. For this they’re usually in the car on the driver side. Take a look at the fuse guide and check it with a multimeter. ***If you do not own a multimeter, get yourself a $50-100 auto range True RMS Klein.*** If you do not see any bad fuses, then the next thing I would do is check the wiring on the car and see if the harness is receiving power. If you see 12V on the harness on the chassis, then we know the car is getting power.
If you’ve checked both of these, then the regulator is bad. At that point without a model number we’re stuck but if you search ***(Model year) Chevy Malibu (bad) window regulator***. At that point I would also look for a service manual to make sure you have the procedure which is correct for your car as it can change between years in slight ways.