I have done this on the EliteBooks where someone overtightened it: I use the largest bit that (safely!) fits the screw in its current state. When I had to do this on my used but new to me HP 640 G9, it was because the seller or prior owner cranked on it so horribly tight the screw was damaged but there was enough left to go in with a Phillips #1 bit and get it out for replacement. Try multiple sizes until you find the right one given your situation —YMWV.
The real trick is to use something like a big screwdriver which takes 1/4" bits, and using the "right bit" to get it done for the excess torque you will need. I use the [product|IF145-392|Manta driver kit] or the [product|IF145-391|Mahi driver kit] (both work as they use the same driver handle) so I can get these screws out as needed when this happens.
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Think about it this way: You are using a disproportionally large screwdriver to "break" the screw out cleanly, and being able to replace it if needed as the head remains intact (or ignore it if it’s not critical or structura)l. ***The exception here is structural screws and bottom covers: if it's for a bottom cover where the main cover is the structure I will either be very careful moving forward to not make it worse, or if say I run into a non damaged screw from a LD unit I will take the good screw from that machine and then replace it.*** That isn't always possible (especially on the Lat D RAM door) given it's often captive with a C clip, so you usually need a new door, which isn't hard to find a replacement.
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Think about it this way: You are using a disproportionally large screwdriver to "break" the screw out cleanly, and being able to replace it if needed as the head remains intact (or ignore it if it’s not critical or structura)l. ***The exception here is structural screws and bottom covers: if it's for a bottom cover where the main cover is the structure I will either be very careful moving forward to not make it worse, or if say I run into a non damaged screw from a LD unit I will take the good screw from that machine and then replace it.*** That isn't always possible (especially on the Lat D RAM door) given it's often captive with a C clip, so you usually need a new door, but it isn't hard to find a replacement.
I have done this on the EliteBooks where someone overtightened it: I use the largest bit that (safely!) fits the screw in its current state. When I had to do this on my used but new to me HP 640 G9, it was because the seller or prior owner cranked on it so horribly tight screw was damaged but there was enough left to go in with a Phillips #1 bit and get it out for replacement. Try multiple sizes until you find the right one given your situation —YMWV.
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I have done this on the EliteBooks where someone overtightened it: I use the largest bit that (safely!) fits the screw in its current state. When I had to do this on my used but new to me HP 640 G9, it was because the seller or prior owner cranked on it so horribly tight the screw was damaged but there was enough left to go in with a Phillips #1 bit and get it out for replacement. Try multiple sizes until you find the right one given your situation —YMWV.
The real trick is to use something like a big screwdriver which takes 1/4" bits, and using the "right bit" to get it done for the excess torque you will need. I use the [product|IF145-392|Manta driver kit] or the [product|IF145-391|Mahi driver kit] (both work as they use the same driver handle) so I can get these screws out as needed when this happens.
Think about it this way: You are using a disproportionally large screwdriver to "break" the screw out cleanly, and being able to replace it if needed as the head remains intact (or ignore it if it’s not critical or structura)l. ***The exception here is structural screws and bottom covers: if it's for a bottom cover where the main cover is the structure I will either be very careful moving forward to not make it worse, or if say I run into a non damaged screw from a LD unit I will take the good screw from that machine and then replace it.*** That isn't always possible (especially on the Lat D RAM door) given it's often captive with a C clip, so you usually need a new door, which isn't hard to find a replacement.
I have done this on the EliteBooks where someone overtightened it: I use the largest bit that (safely!) fits the screw in its current state. When I had to do this on my 640 G9 because the seller or prior owner cranked on it horribly there was enough left to go in with a Phillips #1 bit and get it out. Try multiple sizes until you find the right one given your situation —YMWV.
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I have done this on the EliteBooks where someone overtightened it: I use the largest bit that (safely!) fits the screw in its current state. When I had to do this on my used but new to me HP 640 G9, it was because the seller or prior owner cranked on it so horribly tight screw was damaged but there was enough left to go in with a Phillips #1 bit and get it out for replacement. Try multiple sizes until you find the right one given your situation —YMWV.
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The real trick is to use something like a big screwdriver which takes 1/4" bits, and using the "right bit" to get it done. I use the [product|IF145-392|Manta driver kit] or the [product|IF145-391|Mahi driver kit] for the handle since it gives me plenty of torque to get rid of the stripped screw; think about it this way: You are using a disproportionally large screwdriver to "break" the screw loose cleanly, and being able to replace it if needed as the head remains intact, or ignore replacing it if it’s not critical or structural. ***The exception here is structural screws and bottom covers: if it's for a bottom cover where the main cover is the structure I will either be very careful moving forward to not make it worse, or if say I run into a non damaged screw from a LD unit I will take the good screw from that machine and then replace it.*** That isn't always possible (especially on the Lat D RAM door) given it's often captive with a C clip, so you usually need a new door, which isn't hard to find a replacement.
+
The real trick is to use something like a big screwdriver which takes 1/4" bits, and using the "right bit" to get it done for the excess torque you will need. I use the [product|IF145-392|Manta driver kit] or the [product|IF145-391|Mahi driver kit] (both work as they use the same driver handle) so I can get these screws out as needed when this happens.
+
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Think about it this way: You are using a disproportionally large screwdriver to "break" the screw out cleanly, and being able to replace it if needed as the head remains intact (or ignore it if it’s not critical or structura)l. ***The exception here is structural screws and bottom covers: if it's for a bottom cover where the main cover is the structure I will either be very careful moving forward to not make it worse, or if say I run into a non damaged screw from a LD unit I will take the good screw from that machine and then replace it.*** That isn't always possible (especially on the Lat D RAM door) given it's often captive with a C clip, so you usually need a new door, which isn't hard to find a replacement.
I have done this on the EliteBooks where someone overtightened it: I use the largest bit that (safely!) fits the screw in its current state. When I had to do this on my 640 G9 because the seller or prior owner cranked on it horribly there was enough left to go in with a Phillips #1 bit and get it out. Try multiple sizes until you find the right one given your situation —YMWV.
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The real trick is to use something like the 1/4" handle and the "right bit" with the driver from the [product|IF145-392|Manta driver kit] or the [product|IF145-391|Mahi driver kit] so you have plenty of torque to get rid of the stripped screw; think about it this way: You are using a disproportionally large screwdriver to "break" the screw loose cleanly, and being able to replace it if needed as the head remains intact, or ignore replacing it if it’s not critical or structural. ***The exception here is structural screws and bottom covers: if it's for a bottom cover where the main cover is the structure I will either be very careful moving forward to not make it worse, or if say I run into a non damaged screw from a LD unit I will take the good screw from that machine and then replace it.*** That isn't always possible (especially on the Lat D RAM door) given it's often captive with a C clip, so you usually need a new door, which isn't hard to find a replacement.
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The real trick is to use something like a big screwdriver which takes 1/4" bits, and using the "right bit" to get it done. I use the [product|IF145-392|Manta driver kit] or the [product|IF145-391|Mahi driver kit] for the handle since it gives me plenty of torque to get rid of the stripped screw; think about it this way: You are using a disproportionally large screwdriver to "break" the screw loose cleanly, and being able to replace it if needed as the head remains intact, or ignore replacing it if it’s not critical or structural. ***The exception here is structural screws and bottom covers: if it's for a bottom cover where the main cover is the structure I will either be very careful moving forward to not make it worse, or if say I run into a non damaged screw from a LD unit I will take the good screw from that machine and then replace it.*** That isn't always possible (especially on the Lat D RAM door) given it's often captive with a C clip, so you usually need a new door, which isn't hard to find a replacement.
I have done this on the EliteBooks where someone overtightened it: I use the largest bit that (safely!) fits the sscew in its current state. When I had to do this on my 640 G9, the Phillips #1 bit was the right bit in that situation—YMWV, try multiple sizes.
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I have done this on the EliteBooks where someone overtightened it: I use the largest bit that (safely!) fits the screw in its current state. When I had to do this on my 640 G9 because the seller or prior owner cranked on it horribly there was enough left to go in with a Phillips #1 bit and get it out. Try multiple sizes until you find the right one given your situation —YMWV.
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The real trick is to use something like the 1/4" handle and the "right bit" with the driver from the [product|IF145-392|Manta driver kit] or the [product|IF145-391|Mahi driver kit] so you have plenty of torque to get rid of the stripped screw; think about it this way: You are using a disproprtionatly large screwdriver to "break" the screw from the hole cleanly, and being able to replace it if needed as the hed remains intact. If the screw isn't crucial I would throw it out. ***The exception here is structural screws and bottom covers: if it's for a bottom cover where the main cover is the structure I will either be very careful moving forward to not make it worse, or if say I run into a non damaged screw from a LD unit I will take the good screw from that machine and then replace it.*** That isn't always possible (especially on the Lat D RAM door) given it's often captive with a C clip, so you usually need a new door, which isn't hard to find a replacement.
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The real trick is to use something like the 1/4" handle and the "right bit" with the driver from the [product|IF145-392|Manta driver kit] or the [product|IF145-391|Mahi driver kit] so you have plenty of torque to get rid of the stripped screw; think about it this way: You are using a disproportionally large screwdriver to "break" the screw loose cleanly, and being able to replace it if needed as the head remains intact, or ignore replacing it if it’s not critical or structural. ***The exception here is structural screws and bottom covers: if it's for a bottom cover where the main cover is the structure I will either be very careful moving forward to not make it worse, or if say I run into a non damaged screw from a LD unit I will take the good screw from that machine and then replace it.*** That isn't always possible (especially on the Lat D RAM door) given it's often captive with a C clip, so you usually need a new door, which isn't hard to find a replacement.
I have done this on the EliteBooks where someone overtightened it: I use the largest bit that (safely!) fits the sscew in its current state. When I had to do this on my 640 G9, the Phillips #1 bit was the right bit in that situation—YMWV, try multiple sizes.
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The real trick is to use something like the 1/4" handle and the "right bit" with the driver from the [product|IF145-392|Manta driver kit] or the [product|IF145-391|Mahi driver kit] so you have plenty of torque to get rid of the bad screw; think about it this way: You are using a dispp[roprtionatly large screwdriver to "break" the screw cleanly (well, minus having to replace it by buying one or borrowing one from an area where it's not needed). Now once it's out if it's not critical and not redily obvious I will toss the screw and call the job done. If it's for a bottom cover where the main cover is the structure I will either be very careful moving forward to not make it worse, or if say I run into a non damaged screw from a LD unit I will take the good screw from that machine and then replace it. That isn't always possible (especially on the Lat D RAM door) given it's often captive with a C clip, so you usually need a new door, which isn't hard to find a replacement.
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The real trick is to use something like the 1/4" handle and the "right bit" with the driver from the [product|IF145-392|Manta driver kit] or the [product|IF145-391|Mahi driver kit] so you have plenty of torque to get rid of the stripped screw; think about it this way: You are using a disproprtionatly large screwdriver to "break" the screw from the hole cleanly, and being able to replace it if needed as the hed remains intact. If the screw isn't crucial I would throw it out. ***The exception here is structural screws and bottom covers: if it's for a bottom cover where the main cover is the structure I will either be very careful moving forward to not make it worse, or if say I run into a non damaged screw from a LD unit I will take the good screw from that machine and then replace it.*** That isn't always possible (especially on the Lat D RAM door) given it's often captive with a C clip, so you usually need a new door, which isn't hard to find a replacement.
I have done this on the EliteBooks where someone overtightened it: I use the largest bit that (safely!) fits the sscew in its current state. When I had to do this on my 640 G9, the Phillips #1 bit was the right bit in that situation—YMWV, try multiple sizes.
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The real trick is to use something like the 1/4" handle and the "right bit" with the driver from the [product|IF145-392|Manta driver kit] or the [product|IF145-391|Mahi driver kit] so you have plenty of torque to get rid of the bad screw. Now once it's out if it's not critical and not redily obvious I will just toss the screw and call the job done. If it's for a bottom cover where the main cover is the structure I will either be very careful moving forward to not make it worse, or if say I run into a non damaged screw from a LD unit I will take the good screw from that machine and then replace it. That isn't always possible (especially on the Lat D RAM door) given it's often captive with a C clip, so you usually need a new door, which isn't hard to find a replacement for.
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The real trick is to use something like the 1/4" handle and the "right bit" with the driver from the [product|IF145-392|Manta driver kit] or the [product|IF145-391|Mahi driver kit] so you have plenty of torque to get rid of the bad screw; think about it this way: You are using a dispp[roprtionatly large screwdriver to "break" the screw cleanly (well, minus having to replace it by buying one or borrowing one from an area where it's not needed). Now once it's out if it's not critical and not redily obvious I will toss the screw and call the job done. If it's for a bottom cover where the main cover is the structure I will either be very careful moving forward to not make it worse, or if say I run into a non damaged screw from a LD unit I will take the good screw from that machine and then replace it. That isn't always possible (especially on the Lat D RAM door) given it's often captive with a C clip, so you usually need a new door, which isn't hard to find a replacement.
I have done this on the EliteBooks where someone overtightened it: I use the largest bit that (safely!) fits the sscew in its current state. When I had to do this on my 640 G9, the Phillips #1 bit was the right bit in that situation—YMWV, try multiple sizes.
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The real trick is to use something like the 1/4" handle and the "right bit" with the driver from the [product|IF145-392|Manta driver kit] or the [https://www.ifixit.com/products/mahi-driver-kit-48-bit-driver-kit|Mahi driver kit] so you have plenty of torque to get rid of the bad screw. Now once it's out if it's not critical and not redily obvious I will just toss the screw and call the job done. If it's for a bottom cover where the main cover is the structure I will either be very careful moving forward to not make it worse, or if say I run into a non damaged screw from a LD unit I will take the good screw from that machine and then replace it. That isn't always possible (especially on the Lat D RAM door) given it's often captive with a C clip, so you usually need a new door, which isn't hard to find a replacement for.
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The real trick is to use something like the 1/4" handle and the "right bit" with the driver from the [product|IF145-392|Manta driver kit] or the [product|IF145-391|Mahi driver kit] so you have plenty of torque to get rid of the bad screw. Now once it's out if it's not critical and not redily obvious I will just toss the screw and call the job done. If it's for a bottom cover where the main cover is the structure I will either be very careful moving forward to not make it worse, or if say I run into a non damaged screw from a LD unit I will take the good screw from that machine and then replace it. That isn't always possible (especially on the Lat D RAM door) given it's often captive with a C clip, so you usually need a new door, which isn't hard to find a replacement for.
I have done this on the EliteBooks where someone overtightened it: I use the largest bit that (safely!) fits the sscew in its current state. When I had to do this on my 640 G9, the Phillips #1 bit was the right bit in that situation—YMWV, try multiple sizes.
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The real trick is to use something like the 1/4" handle and the "right bit" with the driver from the [product|IF145-392|Manta driver kit] so you have plenty of torque to get rid of the bad screw. Now once it's out if it's not critical and not redily obvious I will just toss the screw and call the job done. If it's for a bottom cover where the main cover is the structure I will either be very careful moving forward to not make it worse, or if say I run into a non damaged screw from a LD unit I will take the good screw from that machine and then replace it. That isn't always possible (especially on the Lat D RAM door) given it's often captive with a C clip, so you usually need a new door, which isn't hard to find a replacement for.
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The real trick is to use something like the 1/4" handle and the "right bit" with the driver from the [product|IF145-392|Manta driver kit] or the [https://www.ifixit.com/products/mahi-driver-kit-48-bit-driver-kit|Mahi driver kit] so you have plenty of torque to get rid of the bad screw. Now once it's out if it's not critical and not redily obvious I will just toss the screw and call the job done. If it's for a bottom cover where the main cover is the structure I will either be very careful moving forward to not make it worse, or if say I run into a non damaged screw from a LD unit I will take the good screw from that machine and then replace it. That isn't always possible (especially on the Lat D RAM door) given it's often captive with a C clip, so you usually need a new door, which isn't hard to find a replacement for.
I have done this on the EliteBooks where someone overtightened it: I use the largest bit that (safely!) fits the sscew in its current state. When I had to do this on my 640 G9, the Phillips #1 bit was the right bit in that situation—YMWV, try multiple sizes.
The real trick is to use something like the 1/4" handle and the "right bit" with the driver from the [product|IF145-392|Manta driver kit] so you have plenty of torque to get rid of the bad screw. Now once it's out if it's not critical and not redily obvious I will just toss the screw and call the job done. If it's for a bottom cover where the main cover is the structure I will either be very careful moving forward to not make it worse, or if say I run into a non damaged screw from a LD unit I will take the good screw from that machine and then replace it. That isn't always possible (especially on the Lat D RAM door) given it's often captive with a C clip, so you usually need a new door, which isn't hard to find a replacement for.