If you have a soldering Iron or gun (not a hot air system) then it gets into the flux you use and making sure you’ve kept the tip tinned properly.
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* Active fluxes which are acid based shoul not be used as they corrode the Copper or Bronze tip.
+
* Active fluxes which are acid based should not be used as they corrode the Copper or Bronze tip.
* Try to minimize the length of time the iron is left on, a gun is a bit different as it’s only when you pull the trigger does it heat up.
* The size of the tip and it’s mass gets into how effective it will heat up the joint. In addition, the amount of solder bridging across the tip and the area being soldered needs to be large enough to cover the expected space to be heated. The component type can also effect the size of the iron as well as the amount of solder. Likewise some components are heat sensitive and/or require a special solder.
* When heating don’t let the tip adhere to the work piece! Pulling it off will damage the tip, with out moving, add solder to expand the area and then when liquid again pull the iron away. Use solder-wick to remove excess solder.
Before shutting down your iron re-tin the tip. Cleaning your tip can be tricky! I use a cellulose sponge and distilled water as the minerals in the water can damage the tip.
Gun tips are a bit fragile as the electrodes meet up with a block of Nichrome which heats up and is the functional tip. Unlike an iron which has a sealed capsule withe the metal tip receptacle wound with Nichrome wire and often encapsulated with ceramic. Which can take a bit longer to heat but are stronger for the given size. The thin pencil irons can be damaged with too much force and as the tip is a softer metal you can bend it if not careful.
If you have a soldering Iron or gun (not a hot air system) then it gets into the flux you use and making sure you’ve kept the tip tinned properly.
-
Active fluxes which are acid based shoul not be used as they corrode the Copper or Bronze tip.
-
+
* Active fluxes which are acid based shoul not be used as they corrode the Copper or Bronze tip.
* Try to minimize the length of time the iron is left on, a gun is a bit different as it’s only when you pull the trigger does it heat up.
* The size of the tip and it’s mass gets into how effective it will heat up the joint. In addition, the amount of solder bridging across the tip and the area being soldered needs to be large enough to cover the expected space to be heated. The component type can also effect the size of the iron as well as the amount of solder. Likewise some components are heat sensitive and/or require a special solder.
-
* When heating don’t let the tip get adhere to the work piece! Pulling it off will damage the tip, with out moving add solder to expand the area and then when liquid pull the iron away. Use solder-wick to remove excess solder.
+
* When heating don’t let the tip adhere to the work piece! Pulling it off will damage the tip, with out moving, add solder to expand the area and then when liquid again pull the iron away. Use solder-wick to remove excess solder.
Before shutting down your iron re-tin the tip. Cleaning your tip can be tricky! I use a cellulose sponge and distilled water as the minerals in the water can damage the tip.
Gun tips are a bit fragile as the electrodes meet up with a block of Nichrome which heats up and is the functional tip. Unlike an iron which has a sealed capsule withe the metal tip receptacle wound with Nichrome wire and often encapsulated with ceramic. Which can take a bit longer to heat but are stronger for the given size. The thin pencil irons can be damaged with too much force and as the tip is a softer metal you can bend it if not careful.
If you have a soldering Iron or gun (not a hot air system) then it gets into the flux you use and making sure you’ve kept the tip tinned properly.
Active fluxes which are acid based shoul not be used as they corrode the Copper or Bronze tip.
-
Try to minimize the length of time the iron is left on, a gun is a bit different as it’s only when you pull the trigger does it heat up.
-
-
The size of the tip and it’s mass gets into how effective it will heat up the joint. In addition, the amount of solder bridging across the tip and the area being soldered needs to be large enough to cover the expected space to be heated. The component type can also effect the size of the iron as well as the amount of solder. Likewise some components are heat sensitive and/or require a special solder.
-
-
When heating don’t let the tip get adhere to the work piece! Pulling it off will damage the tip, with out moving add solder to expand the area and then when liquid pull the iron away. Use solder-wick to remove excess solder.
-
+
* Try to minimize the length of time the iron is left on, a gun is a bit different as it’s only when you pull the trigger does it heat up.
+
* The size of the tip and it’s mass gets into how effective it will heat up the joint. In addition, the amount of solder bridging across the tip and the area being soldered needs to be large enough to cover the expected space to be heated. The component type can also effect the size of the iron as well as the amount of solder. Likewise some components are heat sensitive and/or require a special solder.
+
* When heating don’t let the tip get adhere to the work piece! Pulling it off will damage the tip, with out moving add solder to expand the area and then when liquid pull the iron away. Use solder-wick to remove excess solder.
Before shutting down your iron re-tin the tip. Cleaning your tip can be tricky! I use a cellulose sponge and distilled water as the minerals in the water can damage the tip.
Gun tips are a bit fragile as the electrodes meet up with a block of Nichrome which heats up and is the functional tip. Unlike an iron which has a sealed capsule withe the metal tip receptacle wound with Nichrome wire and often encapsulated with ceramic. Which can take a bit longer to heat but are stronger for the given size. The thin pencil irons can be damaged with too much force and as the tip is a softer metal you can bend it if not careful.
If you have a soldering Iron or gun (not a hot air system) then it gets into the flux you use and making sure you’ve kept the tip tinned properly.
Active fluxes which are acid based shoul not be used as they corrode the Copper or Bronze tip.
Try to minimize the length of time the iron is left on, a gun is a bit different as it’s only when you pull the trigger does it heat up.
The size of the tip and it’s mass gets into how effective it will heat up the joint. In addition, the amount of solder bridging across the tip and the area being soldered needs to be large enough to cover the expected space to be heated. The component type can also effect the size of the iron as well as the amount of solder. Likewise some components are heat sensitive and/or require a special solder.
When heating don’t let the tip get adhere to the work piece! Pulling it off will damage the tip, with out moving add solder to expand the area and then when liquid pull the iron away. Use solder-wick to remove excess solder.
Before shutting down your iron re-tin the tip. Cleaning your tip can be tricky! I use a cellulose sponge and distilled water as the minerals in the water can damage the tip.
Gun tips are a bit fragile as the electrodes meet up with a block of Nichrome which heats up and is the functional tip. Unlike an iron which has a sealed capsule withe the metal tip receptacle wound with Nichrome wire and often encapsulated with ceramic. Which can take a bit longer to heat but are stronger for the given size. The thin pencil irons can be damaged with too much force and as the tip is a softer metal you can bend it if not careful.