Unlike many here who have their own shop, I was a contract worker jumping around larger corporate customers configuring & fixing their equipment.
Apple’s move to system’s without USB-A ports forced a few of my customers to walk away from Apple gear as they were dependent on cypher keys which need to be directly attached to the system, not via a dongle or hub device which could be altered unbeknownst to the user (man in the middle attack risk). For my other big customers the lack of the ability to memorialize a systems drive or remove it so it could be destroyed was the other downfall for Apple.
So I’ve been working out of my home fixing systems as I could over the last few years.
Well, its finally happened! I’ve, fixed my last system for now. My arthritis has finally made it too hard to do much of anything delicate in the cold weather. Maybe in the late spring I’ll give it ago again.
I’m still helping people keep their systems running as long as they can be here on iFixit!
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crwdns2890332:013-inch MacBook Pro 2020 will only charge from selective cable / brickcrwdne2890332:0At this point I think you'll need to get to an Apple Store or authorized Apple service center as your logic board needs repairs/replacing. This should be covered under warranty! Make sure you bring the original charger and USB cable. I'm suspecting the USB chargers dialog is not being understood by your systems power logic. In the days of old the charger was a dumb power source and the computer had a simple MOSFET switch logic (think older Unibody MacBooks) Today we have a micro controllers in the chargers which have a dialog to the computer telling it what it is and the computer tells the charger what it needs. This dialog for some reason is not working correctly. I think the logic within the computer is messed up.
crwdns2890332:0How can I downgrade my OS?crwdne2890332:0You're fighting a file system issue! Apple altered things between Sierra (HFS+) and High Sierra (APFS) and newer. The version of Disk Utility the different macOS's offer is what holding you back. The older Sierra Disk Utility within Internet recovery can't see the newer APFS partition. Sadly, I've never been able to get it to prep the internal drive as you need to get to the boot sectors but the Internet OS recovery still has the need of accessing your drive. Think of it this way your shoe heel broke off on your shoe, you hobble to the local shoe cobbler to have him fix your shoe (to expensive to toss) clearly he can't fix your shoe while your foot is in it can he. That's the rub here! Recovery is like your foot its still holding tight to the shoe (drive in this case). You'll need to boot up under an external boot drive so you can fully wipe the internal drive using Disk Utility. Ideally, this should be a Sierra drive. From the sounds of it you have a second system (your older system) if its working we can...
crwdns2890332:0Why are certain keys working intermittently?crwdne2890332:0A common issue is the battery has swelled up pressing on the cables. Lets get a view of your batteries health, to get a better view of things, install this gem of an app! CoconutBattery take a snapshot of the apps main window and post it here for us to see Adding images to an existing question
crwdns2890332:0What is this cord called?crwdne2890332:0LVDS display cable it connects from the back of the display to the logic board. Review this guide Step 7 for the logic board side iMac Intel 27" EMC 2429 Display Replacement It looks like you snapped the connector tang from the image. This may need more than the cable as you may have also damaged the logic board connector as well. LVDS Cable Apple P/N 922-9848 getting hard to find Often I need to replace the logic board connector when I see this level of damage 30 Pin LVDS Connector for iMac A1311 & A1312 (EARLY 2008 - MID 2011)
crwdns2890332:0Is this a broken battery connector?crwdne2890332:0The cable its self looks OK with the limited view you have here. As you appear to have more of an issue with getting the cable reconnected within the ZIF connector. Review Step 11 in this guide MacBook Pro 16" 2019 Battery Replacement This is the same cable but routed differently in the 16" system. Basically you need to carefully lift the latch to release the clamping tension then feed the cable in making sure its square and fully pushed in.
crwdns2890332:0I need some more ram for cheapcrwdne2890332:0Your system is limited to 8GB and requires 204-pin PC3-8500 (1066MHz) DDR3 SO-DIMM (two slots)
crwdns2890332:0Which Bluetooth and Wi-Fi for 2008 Mac?crwdne2890332:0Your system is limited to what Apple offered for Bluetooth and WiFi services as only theirs have the needed OS drivers. If you are running Windows or Linux you might be able to install a PCI board which can support newer options. The first Mac Pro Mid 2016 offered them as an add-on option, Early 2008 and newer models had them as standard. Apple offered a Bluetooth 2.0 + EDR plug-in board and AirPort Extreme card (802.11a/b/g/n) both fitted into the main planar logic board. Bluetooth Bd - Apple P/N 922-9006 AirPort Bd (WiFi only) Apple P/N 661-4907
crwdns2890332:0Reportcrash takes lots of ramcrwdne2890332:0Why are you analyzing Crash reports? You should disable it and if you are getting crashes review the crashes on a more powerful system (RAM & storage space) To disable, do this within terminal: launchctl unload -w /System/Library/LaunchAgents/com.apple.ReportCrash.plist sudo launchctl unload -w /System/Library/LaunchDaemons/com.apple.ReportCrash.Root.plist
crwdns2890332:0Weird screen edge spotcrwdne2890332:0If it bothers you I would make the effort to get it fixed (they would likely replace the display) if you just got it then they would likely exchange the system out. I don't think this is a widespread issue, to be safe I would open the packaging up at the store and make a good inspection.
crwdns2890332:0Remove blade SSD from iMaccrwdne2890332:0Yes! You don't need the Fusion blade SSD in your system. The easiest way is after backing up your stuff using your external drive (booting up under it reformat each drive that should make it clear which drive is having problems. You could also check the blade SSD using a tool like DriveDX which lets you see the SSD's health. You don't need to take it out once it's deactivated when you put in the new SATA SSD drive.