The first thing to check, as you said, is the battery. Battery testers are cheap, so it's probably better to buy a tester and do it yourself (or plan to buy one in the future). [link|https://www.amazon.com/MOTOPOWER-MP0515A-Automotive-100-2000-Alternator/dp/B08K3885C4/ref=sr_1_13|Get a battery tester like this to do the battery and alternator|new_window=true]. Most mid-level scanners can also do it, but check the specs to be sure it doesn't go off of what the ECU expects, especially with a better CCA battery then your car uses stock. When in doubt, use a dedicated battery tester.[br]
-
***NOTE: Stick to known brands like Innova/Autel, or an obvious rebrand like Blcktec (Innova) or the HF ones (usually Innova, ICON scanner is Launch). Yes, Chinese scanners are cheap, but they're so bad I lost the spare Motopower, and I'm not bothering to try and find it because it can't clear the DCT codes for crap at times.***[br]
+
The first thing to check, as you said, is the battery. Battery testers are cheap, so it's probably better to buy a tester and do it yourself (or plan to buy one in the future). [link|https://www.amazon.com/MOTOPOWER-MP0515A-Automotive-100-2000-Alternator/dp/B08K3885C4/ref=sr_1_13|Get a battery tester like this to do the battery and alternator|new_window=true]. Most mid-level scanners can also do it, but check the specs to be sure it doesn't go off what the ECU expects, especially with a better CCA battery than your car uses stock. When in doubt, use a dedicated battery tester.[br]
+
***NOTE: Stick to known brands like Innova/Autel (or an obvious rebrand). Some common ones I know are decent are Blcktec (Innova) or the HF ones (usually Innova; the ICON scanner is Launch). Yes, Chinese scanners are cheap, but they're so bad I lost the spare Motopower, and I'm not bothering to try and find it because it can't clear the DCT codes for crap at times. It will follow the used one when I find it: The trash.***[br]
***I use a Launch CRP129X and CRP123X and Innova scanners (6030p/6100p)***[br]
***NOTE: THE MAIN DIFFERENCE WITH THE 129X IS SOME ADDED DIESEL RESETS, INJECTOR CODING, AND FCA AUTOAUTH SUPPORT; other than this, they're the same thing. Both of them support the infamous BMW battery reset procedure. I have it to TS the advanced systems and do things like keyfob programming when available. It's not a requirement, but it's nice to have so you can do things like keys yourself.***
If the battery isn't good or borderline and it remains after being on an external charger, I'd start there. If the issue remains, I'd look at the alternator next and either use the scanner you used for the battery if it does both or get an alternator tester. If the alternator and battery pass, find the starter and hit it with a wrench or heavy object like a rubber mallet; if it starts, the starter is bad.
The first thing to check, as you said, is the battery. Battery testers are cheap, so it's probably better to buy a tester and do it yourself (or plan to buy one in the future). [link|https://www.amazon.com/MOTOPOWER-MP0515A-Automotive-100-2000-Alternator/dp/B08K3885C4/ref=sr_1_13|Get a battery tester like this to do the battery and alternator|new_window=true]. Most mid-level scanners can also do it, but you must check the specs and see if it's limited to what the ECU expects, which can be a problem if you put a bigger CCA battery in. I'd stick with a known brand like Innova or an obvious rebrand like Blcktec or the HF ones that look like the Innova scanners; I've had low-quality Chinese scanners struggle to clear the ECU DCTs before.[br]
+
The first thing to check, as you said, is the battery. Battery testers are cheap, so it's probably better to buy a tester and do it yourself (or plan to buy one in the future). [link|https://www.amazon.com/MOTOPOWER-MP0515A-Automotive-100-2000-Alternator/dp/B08K3885C4/ref=sr_1_13|Get a battery tester like this to do the battery and alternator|new_window=true]. Most mid-level scanners can also do it, but check the specs to be sure it doesn't go off of what the ECU expects, especially with a better CCA battery then your car uses stock. When in doubt, use a dedicated battery tester.[br]
+
***NOTE: Stick to known brands like Innova/Autel, or an obvious rebrand like Blcktec (Innova) or the HF ones (usually Innova, ICON scanner is Launch). Yes, Chinese scanners are cheap, but they're so bad I lost the spare Motopower, and I'm not bothering to try and find it because it can't clear the DCT codes for crap at times.***[br]
***I use a Launch CRP129X and CRP123X and Innova scanners (6030p/6100p)***[br]
***NOTE: THE MAIN DIFFERENCE WITH THE 129X IS SOME ADDED DIESEL RESETS, INJECTOR CODING, AND FCA AUTOAUTH SUPPORT; other than this, they're the same thing. Both of them support the infamous BMW battery reset procedure. I have it to TS the advanced systems and do things like keyfob programming when available. It's not a requirement, but it's nice to have so you can do things like keys yourself.***
If the battery isn't good or borderline and it remains after being on an external charger, I'd start there. If the issue remains, I'd look at the alternator next and either use the scanner you used for the battery if it does both or get an alternator tester. If the alternator and battery pass, find the starter and hit it with a wrench or heavy object like a rubber mallet; if it starts, the starter is bad.
The first thing to check, as you said, is the battery. Battery testers are cheap, so it's probably better to buy a tester and do it yourself (or plan to buy one in the future). [link|https://www.amazon.com/MOTOPOWER-MP0515A-Automotive-100-2000-Alternator/dp/B08K3885C4/ref=sr_1_13|Get a battery tester like this to do the battery and alternator|new_window=true]. Most mid-level scanners can also do it, but you must check the specs and see if it's limited to what the ECU expects, which can be a problem if you put a bigger CCA battery in. I'd stick with a known brand like Innova or an obvious rebrand like Blacktec or the HF ones that look like the Innova scanners; I've had low-quality Chinese scanners struggle to clear the ECU DCTs before.[br]
+
The first thing to check, as you said, is the battery. Battery testers are cheap, so it's probably better to buy a tester and do it yourself (or plan to buy one in the future). [link|https://www.amazon.com/MOTOPOWER-MP0515A-Automotive-100-2000-Alternator/dp/B08K3885C4/ref=sr_1_13|Get a battery tester like this to do the battery and alternator|new_window=true]. Most mid-level scanners can also do it, but you must check the specs and see if it's limited to what the ECU expects, which can be a problem if you put a bigger CCA battery in. I'd stick with a known brand like Innova or an obvious rebrand like Blcktec or the HF ones that look like the Innova scanners; I've had low-quality Chinese scanners struggle to clear the ECU DCTs before.[br]
***I use a Launch CRP129X and CRP123X and Innova scanners (6030p/6100p)***[br]
***NOTE: THE MAIN DIFFERENCE WITH THE 129X IS SOME ADDED DIESEL RESETS, INJECTOR CODING, AND FCA AUTOAUTH SUPPORT; other than this, they're the same thing. Both of them support the infamous BMW battery reset procedure. I have it to TS the advanced systems and do things like keyfob programming when available. It's not a requirement, but it's nice to have so you can do things like keys yourself.***
If the battery isn't good or borderline and it remains after being on an external charger, I'd start there. If the issue remains, I'd look at the alternator next and either use the scanner you used for the battery if it does both or get an alternator tester. If the alternator and battery pass, find the starter and hit it with a wrench or heavy object like a rubber mallet; if it starts, the starter is bad.
The first thing to check, as you said, is the battery. Battery testers are cheap, so it's probably better to buy a tester and do it yourself (or plan to buy one in the future). [link|https://www.amazon.com/MOTOPOWER-MP0515A-Automotive-100-2000-Alternator/dp/B08K3885C4/ref=sr_1_13|Get a battery tester like this to do the battery and alternator|new_window=true]. Most mid-level scanners can also do it, but you must check the specs and see if it's limited to what the ECU expects, which can be a problem if you put a bigger CCA battery in. I'd stick with a known brand like Innova or an obvious rebrand like Blacktec or the HF ones that look like the Innova scanners; I've had low-quality Chinese scanners struggle to clear the ECU DCTs before.[br]
***I use a Launch CRP129X and CRP123X and Innova scanners (6030p/6100p)***[br]
***NOTE: THE MAIN DIFFERENCE WITH THE 129X IS SOME ADDED DIESEL RESETS, INJECTOR CODING, AND FCA AUTOAUTH SUPPORT; other than this, they're the same thing. Both of them support the infamous BMW battery reset procedure. I have it to TS the advanced systems and do things like keyfob programming when available. It's not a requirement, but it's nice to have so you can do things like keys yourself.***
-
If the battery isn't good or borderline, I'd start there. If the issue remains, I'd look at the alternator next and either use the scanner you used for the battery if it does both or get an alternator tester. If the alternator and battery pass, find the starter and hit it with a wrench or heavy object like a rubber mallet; if it starts, the starter is bad.
+
If the battery isn't good or borderline and it remains after being on an external charger, I'd start there. If the issue remains, I'd look at the alternator next and either use the scanner you used for the battery if it does both or get an alternator tester. If the alternator and battery pass, find the starter and hit it with a wrench or heavy object like a rubber mallet; if it starts, the starter is bad.
The first thing to check, as you said, is the battery. Battery testers are cheap, so it's probably better to buy a tester and do it yourself (or plan to buy one in the future). [link|https://www.amazon.com/MOTOPOWER-MP0515A-Automotive-100-2000-Alternator/dp/B08K3885C4/ref=sr_1_13|Get a battery tester like this to do the battery and alternator|new_window=true]. Most mid-level scanners can also do it, but you must check the specs and see if it's limited to what the ECU expects, which can be a problem if you put a bigger CCA battery in. I'd stick with a known brand like Innova or an obvious rebrand like Blacktec or the HF ones that look like the Innova scanners; I've had low-quality Chinese scanners struggle to clear the ECU DCTs before.[br]
***I use a Launch CRP129X and CRP123X and Innova scanners (6030p/6100p)***[br]
***NOTE: THE MAIN DIFFERENCE WITH THE 129X IS SOME ADDED DIESEL RESETS, INJECTOR CODING, AND FCA AUTOAUTH SUPPORT; other than this, they're the same thing. Both of them support the infamous BMW battery reset procedure. I have it to TS the advanced systems and do things like keyfob programming when available. It's not a requirement, but it's nice to have so you can do things like keys yourself.***
-
If the battery isn't good, this causes this exact problem. It's time for a new battery. If the issue remains, I'd look at the alternator next and either use the scanner you used for the battery if it does both or get an alternator tester. If the alternator and battery pass, find the starter and hit it with a wrench or heavy object like a rubber mallet; if it starts, the starter is bad.
+
If the battery isn't good or borderline, I'd start there. If the issue remains, I'd look at the alternator next and either use the scanner you used for the battery if it does both or get an alternator tester. If the alternator and battery pass, find the starter and hit it with a wrench or heavy object like a rubber mallet; if it starts, the starter is bad.
The first thing to check, as you said, is the battery. Battery testers are cheap, so it's probably better to buy a tester and do it yourself (or plan to buy one in the future). [link|https://www.amazon.com/MOTOPOWER-MP0515A-Automotive-100-2000-Alternator/dp/B08K3885C4/ref=sr_1_13|Get a battery tester like this to do the battery and alternator|new_window=true]. Most mid-level scanners can also do it, but you must check the specs and see if it's limited to what the ECU expects, which can be a problem if you put a bigger CCA battery in. I'd stick with a known brand like Innova or an obvious rebrand like Blacktec or the HF ones that look like the Innova scanners; I've had low-quality Chinese scanners struggle to clear the ECU DCTs before.[br]
-
***I use a Launch CRP129X and CRP123X and Innova scanners (6030p/6100p) scanner and Innova***[br]
+
***I use a Launch CRP129X and CRP123X and Innova scanners (6030p/6100p)***[br]
***NOTE: THE MAIN DIFFERENCE WITH THE 129X IS SOME ADDED DIESEL RESETS, INJECTOR CODING, AND FCA AUTOAUTH SUPPORT; other than this, they're the same thing. Both of them support the infamous BMW battery reset procedure. I have it to TS the advanced systems and do things like keyfob programming when available. It's not a requirement, but it's nice to have so you can do things like keys yourself.***
If the battery isn't good, this causes this exact problem. It's time for a new battery. If the issue remains, I'd look at the alternator next and either use the scanner you used for the battery if it does both or get an alternator tester. If the alternator and battery pass, find the starter and hit it with a wrench or heavy object like a rubber mallet; if it starts, the starter is bad.
The first thing to check, as you said, is the battery. Battery testers are cheap, so it's probably better to buy a tester and do it yourself (or plan to buy one in the future). [link|https://www.amazon.com/MOTOPOWER-MP0515A-Automotive-100-2000-Alternator/dp/B08K3885C4/ref=sr_1_13|Get a battery tester like this to do the battery and alternator|new_window=true]. Most mid-level scanners can also do it, but you must check the specs. I'd stick with a known brand like Innova or an obvious rebrand like Blacktec or the HF ones that look like the Innova scanners; I've had low-quality Chinese scanners struggle to clear the ECU DCTs before.[br]
+
The first thing to check, as you said, is the battery. Battery testers are cheap, so it's probably better to buy a tester and do it yourself (or plan to buy one in the future). [link|https://www.amazon.com/MOTOPOWER-MP0515A-Automotive-100-2000-Alternator/dp/B08K3885C4/ref=sr_1_13|Get a battery tester like this to do the battery and alternator|new_window=true]. Most mid-level scanners can also do it, but you must check the specs and see if it's limited to what the ECU expects, which can be a problem if you put a bigger CCA battery in. I'd stick with a known brand like Innova or an obvious rebrand like Blacktec or the HF ones that look like the Innova scanners; I've had low-quality Chinese scanners struggle to clear the ECU DCTs before.[br]
***I use a Launch CRP129X and CRP123X and Innova scanners (6030p/6100p) scanner and Innova***[br]
-
***NOTE: THE MAIN DIFFERENCE WITH THE 129X IS SOME ADDED DIESEL RESETS, INJECTOR CODING, AND FCA AUTOAUTH SUPPORT; other than this, they're the same thing. Both of them support the infamous BMW battery reset procedure. I manly have it to TS the advanced systems and do things like keyfob programming when available. It's not a requirement, but it's nice to have so you can do things like keys yourself.***
+
***NOTE: THE MAIN DIFFERENCE WITH THE 129X IS SOME ADDED DIESEL RESETS, INJECTOR CODING, AND FCA AUTOAUTH SUPPORT; other than this, they're the same thing. Both of them support the infamous BMW battery reset procedure. I have it to TS the advanced systems and do things like keyfob programming when available. It's not a requirement, but it's nice to have so you can do things like keys yourself.***
If the battery isn't good, this causes this exact problem. It's time for a new battery. If the issue remains, I'd look at the alternator next and either use the scanner you used for the battery if it does both or get an alternator tester. If the alternator and battery pass, find the starter and hit it with a wrench or heavy object like a rubber mallet; if it starts, the starter is bad.
The first thing to check, as you said, is the battery. Battery testers are cheap, so it's probably better to buy a tester and do it yourself (or plan to buy one in the future). [link|https://www.amazon.com/MOTOPOWER-MP0515A-Automotive-100-2000-Alternator/dp/B08K3885C4/ref=sr_1_13|Get a battery tester like this to do the battery and alternator|new_window=true]. Most mid-level scanners can also do it, but you must check the specs. I'd stick with a known brand like Innova or an obvious rebrand like Blacktec or the HF ones that look like the Innova scanners; I've had low-quality Chinese scanners struggle to clear the ECU DCTs before. ***I use a Launch scanner and Innova, but I mainly have the Launch (CRP123X and 129X; they're basically the same thing, but the 129X has some extra diesel resets and a few advanced functions as well as FCA AutoAuth support while both support the battery reset BMW made infamous which some mid level scanners do and don't support). I manly have it to TS the advanced systems and do things like keyfob programming when available. It's not a requirement, it's a nice to have.***
+
The first thing to check, as you said, is the battery. Battery testers are cheap, so it's probably better to buy a tester and do it yourself (or plan to buy one in the future). [link|https://www.amazon.com/MOTOPOWER-MP0515A-Automotive-100-2000-Alternator/dp/B08K3885C4/ref=sr_1_13|Get a battery tester like this to do the battery and alternator|new_window=true]. Most mid-level scanners can also do it, but you must check the specs. I'd stick with a known brand like Innova or an obvious rebrand like Blacktec or the HF ones that look like the Innova scanners; I've had low-quality Chinese scanners struggle to clear the ECU DCTs before.[br]
+
***I use a Launch CRP129X and CRP123X and Innova scanners (6030p/6100p) scanner and Innova***[br]
+
***NOTE: THE MAIN DIFFERENCE WITH THE 129X IS SOME ADDED DIESEL RESETS, INJECTOR CODING, AND FCA AUTOAUTH SUPPORT; other than this, they're the same thing. Both of them support the infamous BMW battery reset procedure. I manly have it to TS the advanced systems and do things like keyfob programming when available. It's not a requirement, but it's nice to have so you can do things like keys yourself.***
If the battery isn't good, this causes this exact problem. It's time for a new battery. If the issue remains, I'd look at the alternator next and either use the scanner you used for the battery if it does both or get an alternator tester. If the alternator and battery pass, find the starter and hit it with a wrench or heavy object like a rubber mallet; if it starts, the starter is bad.
The first thing to check, as you said, is the battery. Battery testers are cheap, so it's probably better to buy a tester and do it yourself (or plan to buy one in the future). [link|https://www.amazon.com/MOTOPOWER-MP0515A-Automotive-100-2000-Alternator/dp/B08K3885C4/ref=sr_1_13|Get a battery tester like this to do the battery and alternator|new_window=true]. Most mid-level scanners can also do it, but you must check the specs. I'd stick with a known brand like Innova or an obvious rebrand like Blacktec or the HF ones that look like the Innova scanners; I've had low-quality Chinese scanners struggle to clear the ECU DCTs before. ***I use a Launch scanner and Innova, but I mainly have the Launch (CRP123X and 129X; they're basically the same thing, but the 129X has some extra diesel resets and a few advanced functions as well as FCA AutoAuth support while both support the battery reset BMW made infamous which some mid level scanners do and don't support). I manly have it to TS the advanced systems and do things like keyfob programming when available. It's not a requirement, it's a nice to have.***
-
If the battery isn't good, this causes this exact problem. It's time for a new battery. If the issue remains, I'd look at the alternator next and either use the scanner you used for the battery if it does both or get an alternator tester. If the alternator and battery pass, find the starter and hit it with a wrench or heavy object; if it starts, the starter is bad.
+
If the battery isn't good, this causes this exact problem. It's time for a new battery. If the issue remains, I'd look at the alternator next and either use the scanner you used for the battery if it does both or get an alternator tester. If the alternator and battery pass, find the starter and hit it with a wrench or heavy object like a rubber mallet; if it starts, the starter is bad.
The first thing to check, as you said, is the battery. Battery testers are cheap, so it's probably better to buy a tester and do it yourself (or plan to buy one in the future). [link|https://www.amazon.com/MOTOPOWER-MP0515A-Automotive-100-2000-Alternator/dp/B08K3885C4/ref=sr_1_13|Get a battery tester like this to do the battery and alternator|new_window=true]. Most mid-level scanners can also do it, but you must check the specs. I'd stick with a known brand like Innova or an obvious rebrand like Blacktec or the HF ones that look like the Innova scanners; I've had low-quality Chinese scanners struggle to clear the ECU DCTs before. ***I use a Launch scanner and Innova, but I mainly have the Launch (CRP123X and 129X; they're basically the same thing, but the 129X has some extra diesel resets and a few advanced functions as well as FCA AutoAuth support while both support the battery reset BMW made infamous which some mid level scanners do and don't support) to TS the advanced systems and do thing like program keyfobs when I can purchase a full function upgrade or it's available by default. It's not a requirement, it's a nice to have.***
+
The first thing to check, as you said, is the battery. Battery testers are cheap, so it's probably better to buy a tester and do it yourself (or plan to buy one in the future). [link|https://www.amazon.com/MOTOPOWER-MP0515A-Automotive-100-2000-Alternator/dp/B08K3885C4/ref=sr_1_13|Get a battery tester like this to do the battery and alternator|new_window=true]. Most mid-level scanners can also do it, but you must check the specs. I'd stick with a known brand like Innova or an obvious rebrand like Blacktec or the HF ones that look like the Innova scanners; I've had low-quality Chinese scanners struggle to clear the ECU DCTs before. ***I use a Launch scanner and Innova, but I mainly have the Launch (CRP123X and 129X; they're basically the same thing, but the 129X has some extra diesel resets and a few advanced functions as well as FCA AutoAuth support while both support the battery reset BMW made infamous which some mid level scanners do and don't support). I manly have it to TS the advanced systems and do things like keyfob programming when available. It's not a requirement, it's a nice to have.***
If the battery isn't good, this causes this exact problem. It's time for a new battery. If the issue remains, I'd look at the alternator next and either use the scanner you used for the battery if it does both or get an alternator tester. If the alternator and battery pass, find the starter and hit it with a wrench or heavy object; if it starts, the starter is bad.
The first thing to check, as you said, is the battery. Battery testers are cheap, so it's probably better to buy a tester and do it yourself (or plan to buy one in the future). [link|https://www.amazon.com/MOTOPOWER-MP0515A-Automotive-100-2000-Alternator/dp/B08K3885C4/ref=sr_1_13|Get a battery tester like this to do the battery and alternator|new_window=true]. Most mid-level scanners can also do it, but you must check the specs. I'd stick with a known brand like Innova or an obvious rebrand like Blacktec or the HF ones that look like the Innova scanners; I've had low-quality Chinese scanners struggle to clear the ECU DCTs before. ***I use a Launch scanner and Innova, but I mainly have the Launch (CRP123X and 129X; they're basically the same thing, but the 129X has some extra diesel resets and a few advanced functions as well as FCA AutoAuth support) to TS the advanced systems and program keyfobs when I can purchase a full function upgrade. It's not a requirement.***
+
The first thing to check, as you said, is the battery. Battery testers are cheap, so it's probably better to buy a tester and do it yourself (or plan to buy one in the future). [link|https://www.amazon.com/MOTOPOWER-MP0515A-Automotive-100-2000-Alternator/dp/B08K3885C4/ref=sr_1_13|Get a battery tester like this to do the battery and alternator|new_window=true]. Most mid-level scanners can also do it, but you must check the specs. I'd stick with a known brand like Innova or an obvious rebrand like Blacktec or the HF ones that look like the Innova scanners; I've had low-quality Chinese scanners struggle to clear the ECU DCTs before. ***I use a Launch scanner and Innova, but I mainly have the Launch (CRP123X and 129X; they're basically the same thing, but the 129X has some extra diesel resets and a few advanced functions as well as FCA AutoAuth support while both support the battery reset BMW made infamous which some mid level scanners do and don't support) to TS the advanced systems and do thing like program keyfobs when I can purchase a full function upgrade or it's available by default. It's not a requirement, it's a nice to have.***
If the battery isn't good, this causes this exact problem. It's time for a new battery. If the issue remains, I'd look at the alternator next and either use the scanner you used for the battery if it does both or get an alternator tester. If the alternator and battery pass, find the starter and hit it with a wrench or heavy object; if it starts, the starter is bad.
The first thing to check, as you said, is the battery. Battery testers are cheap, so it's probably better to buy a tester and do it yourself (or plan to buy one in the future). [link|https://www.amazon.com/MOTOPOWER-MP0515A-Automotive-100-2000-Alternator/dp/B08K3885C4/ref=sr_1_13|Get a battery tester like this to do the battery and alternator|new_window=true]. Most mid-level scanners can also do it, but you must check the specs. I'd stick with a known brand like Innova or an obvious rebrand like Blacktec or the HF ones that look like the Innova scanners; I've had low-quality Chinese scanners struggle to clear the ECU DCTs before. ***I use a Launch scanner and Innova, but I mainly have the Launch to TS the advanced systems and program keyfobs. It's not a requirement.***
+
The first thing to check, as you said, is the battery. Battery testers are cheap, so it's probably better to buy a tester and do it yourself (or plan to buy one in the future). [link|https://www.amazon.com/MOTOPOWER-MP0515A-Automotive-100-2000-Alternator/dp/B08K3885C4/ref=sr_1_13|Get a battery tester like this to do the battery and alternator|new_window=true]. Most mid-level scanners can also do it, but you must check the specs. I'd stick with a known brand like Innova or an obvious rebrand like Blacktec or the HF ones that look like the Innova scanners; I've had low-quality Chinese scanners struggle to clear the ECU DCTs before. ***I use a Launch scanner and Innova, but I mainly have the Launch (CRP123X and 129X; they're basically the same thing, but the 129X has some extra diesel resets and a few advanced functions as well as FCA AutoAuth support) to TS the advanced systems and program keyfobs when I can purchase a full function upgrade. It's not a requirement.***
If the battery isn't good, this causes this exact problem. It's time for a new battery. If the issue remains, I'd look at the alternator next and either use the scanner you used for the battery if it does both or get an alternator tester. If the alternator and battery pass, find the starter and hit it with a wrench or heavy object; if it starts, the starter is bad.
The first thing to check, as you said, is the battery. Battery testers are cheap, so it's probably better to buy a tester now, or plan to buy one in the future. [link|https://www.amazon.com/MOTOPOWER-MP0515A-Automotive-100-2000-Alternator/dp/B08K3885C4/ref=sr_1_13|Get a battery tester like this to do the battery and alternator|new_window=true]. Most mid-level scanners can also do it, but you must check the specs. I'd stick with a known brand like Innova or an obvious rebrand like Blacktec or the HF ones that look like the Innova scanners; I've had low-quality Chinese scanners struggle to clear the ECU DCTs before. ***I use a Launch scanner and Innova, but I mainly have the Launch to TS the advanced systems and program keyfobs. It's not a requirement.***
+
The first thing to check, as you said, is the battery. Battery testers are cheap, so it's probably better to buy a tester and do it yourself (or plan to buy one in the future). [link|https://www.amazon.com/MOTOPOWER-MP0515A-Automotive-100-2000-Alternator/dp/B08K3885C4/ref=sr_1_13|Get a battery tester like this to do the battery and alternator|new_window=true]. Most mid-level scanners can also do it, but you must check the specs. I'd stick with a known brand like Innova or an obvious rebrand like Blacktec or the HF ones that look like the Innova scanners; I've had low-quality Chinese scanners struggle to clear the ECU DCTs before. ***I use a Launch scanner and Innova, but I mainly have the Launch to TS the advanced systems and program keyfobs. It's not a requirement.***
If the battery isn't good, this causes this exact problem. It's time for a new battery. If the issue remains, I'd look at the alternator next and either use the scanner you used for the battery if it does both or get an alternator tester. If the alternator and battery pass, find the starter and hit it with a wrench or heavy object; if it starts, the starter is bad.
The first thing to check, as you said, is the battery. Battery testers are cheap, so it's probably better to buy a tester now, or plan to buy one in the future. [link|https://www.amazon.com/MOTOPOWER-MP0515A-Automotive-100-2000-Alternator/dp/B08K3885C4/ref=sr_1_13|Get a battery tester like this to do the battery and alternator|new_window=true]. Most mid-level scanners can also do it, but you must check the specs. I'd stick with a known brand like Innova or an obvious rebrand like Blacktec or the HF ones that look like the Innova scanners; I've had low-quality Chinese scanners struggle to clear the ECU DCTs before. ***I use a Launch scanner and Innova, but I mainly have the Launch to TS the advanced systems and program keyfobs. It's not a requirement.***
-
If the battery isn't good, this causes this exact problem. It's time for a new battery. If the issue remains, I'd look at the alternator next and either use the scanner you used for the battery if it does both or get an alternator tester. If both the alternator and battery pass, find the starter and hit it with a wrench or heavy object; if it starts, the starter is bad.
+
If the battery isn't good, this causes this exact problem. It's time for a new battery. If the issue remains, I'd look at the alternator next and either use the scanner you used for the battery if it does both or get an alternator tester. If the alternator and battery pass, find the starter and hit it with a wrench or heavy object; if it starts, the starter is bad.
The first thing to check, as you said, is the battery. Battery testers are cheap, so it's probably better to buy a tester now, or plan to in the future. [link|https://www.amazon.com/MOTOPOWER-MP0515A-Automotive-100-2000-Alternator/dp/B08K3885C4/ref=sr_1_13|Get a battery tester like this, which can do the battery and alternator]. Note that some mid-level scanners can also do it, but you need to check the specs. I'd stick with a known brand like Innova or an obvious rebrand like Blacktec or the HF ones that look like the Innova scanners; I've had low-quality Chinese scanners struggle to clear the ECU DCTs before. I use a Launch scanner and Innova, but I mainly have the Launch to TS the advanced systems and program keyfobs.
+
The first thing to check, as you said, is the battery. Battery testers are cheap, so it's probably better to buy a tester now, or plan to buy one in the future. [link|https://www.amazon.com/MOTOPOWER-MP0515A-Automotive-100-2000-Alternator/dp/B08K3885C4/ref=sr_1_13|Get a battery tester like this to do the battery and alternator|new_window=true]. Most mid-level scanners can also do it, but you must check the specs. I'd stick with a known brand like Innova or an obvious rebrand like Blacktec or the HF ones that look like the Innova scanners; I've had low-quality Chinese scanners struggle to clear the ECU DCTs before. ***I use a Launch scanner and Innova, but I mainly have the Launch to TS the advanced systems and program keyfobs. It's not a requirement.***
If the battery isn't good, this causes this exact problem. It's time for a new battery. If the issue remains, I'd look at the alternator next and either use the scanner you used for the battery if it does both or get an alternator tester. If both the alternator and battery pass, find the starter and hit it with a wrench or heavy object; if it starts, the starter is bad.
The first thing to check, as you said, is the battery. Battery testers are cheap, so it's probably better to buy a tester now, or plan to in the future. [https://www.amazon.com/MOTOPOWER-MP0515A-Automotive-100-2000-Alternator/dp/B08K3885C4/ref=sr_1_13|Get a battery tester like this, which can do the battery and alternator|new_window=true]. Note that some mid-level scanners can also do it, but you need to check the specs. I'd stick with a known brand like Innova or an obvious rebrand like Blacktec or the HF ones that look like the Innova scanners; I've had low-quality Chinese scanners struggle to clear the ECU DCTs before.
+
The first thing to check, as you said, is the battery. Battery testers are cheap, so it's probably better to buy a tester now, or plan to in the future. [link|https://www.amazon.com/MOTOPOWER-MP0515A-Automotive-100-2000-Alternator/dp/B08K3885C4/ref=sr_1_13|Get a battery tester like this, which can do the battery and alternator]. Note that some mid-level scanners can also do it, but you need to check the specs. I'd stick with a known brand like Innova or an obvious rebrand like Blacktec or the HF ones that look like the Innova scanners; I've had low-quality Chinese scanners struggle to clear the ECU DCTs before. I use a Launch scanner and Innova, but I mainly have the Launch to TS the advanced systems and program keyfobs.
If the battery isn't good, this causes this exact problem. It's time for a new battery. If the issue remains, I'd look at the alternator next and either use the scanner you used for the battery if it does both or get an alternator tester. If both the alternator and battery pass, find the starter and hit it with a wrench or heavy object; if it starts, the starter is bad.
The first thing to check, as you said, is the battery. Battery testers are cheap, so it's probably better to buy a tester now, or plan to in the future. [https://www.amazon.com/MOTOPOWER-MP0515A-Automotive-100-2000-Alternator/dp/B08K3885C4/ref=sr_1_13|Get a battery tester like this, which can do the battery and alternator|new_window=true]. Note that some mid-level scanners can also do it, but you need to check the specs. I'd stick with a known brand like Innova or an obvious rebrand like Blacktec or the HF ones that look like the Innova scanners; I've had low-quality Chinese scanners struggle to clear the ECU DCTs before.
If the battery isn't good, this causes this exact problem. It's time for a new battery. If the issue remains, I'd look at the alternator next and either use the scanner you used for the battery if it does both or get an alternator tester. If both the alternator and battery pass, find the starter and hit it with a wrench or heavy object; if it starts, the starter is bad.