The capacitors on the analog board are usually the culprit when this happens, but it can also sometimes be the flyback. While you can repair this, you do need to study how to handle a CRT safely so you do not injure or kill yourself. See here for general advice I have given in the past on the matter: [post|512379|new_window=true]; it's not something I recommend to beginners, but the lesser evil is leaving you guys without the information on how to do this right. The main rule is DO NOT TRUST ANY BLEEDER RESISTORS. It may work, but they burn out after a few years of being abused to quickly discharge 15-25k volts. The manufacturers knew this back then too; it was only expected to work for a few years and that was usually it. The odds of one from the 80s having any semblance of function left are just about zero at this point. While I have updated that answer (as I do every few years) as I use as a general starting point to give to beginners, it's been passed around a few times; that doesn't mean it isn't still valid. At this point our best advice on CRT safety lives here, as well as this (newly created) Wiki: [[Safely discharging CRT monitors|new_window=true]
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The capacitors on the analog board are usually the culprit when this happens, but it can also sometimes be the flyback. While you can repair this, you do need to study how to handle a CRT safely so you do not injure or kill yourself. See here for general advice I have given in the past on the matter: [post|512379|new_window=true]; it's not something I recommend to beginners, but the lesser evil is leaving you guys without the information on how to do this right. The main rule is DO NOT TRUST ANY BLEEDER RESISTORS. It may work, but they burn out after a few years of being abused to quickly discharge 15-25k volts. The manufacturers knew this back then too; it was only expected to work for a few years and that was usually it. The odds of one from the 80s having any semblance of function left are just about zero at this point. While I have updated that answer (as I do every few years) as I use as a general starting point to give to beginners, it's been passed around a few times; that doesn't mean it isn't still valid. At this point our best advice on CRT safety lives here, as well as this (newly created) Wiki: [[Safely discharging CRT monitors|new_window=true]]
This one isn't as bad being a ~15k tube (small color tubes tend to hover ~25k) but that's still enough to give you a nasty kick that will knock you on the ground. The capacitor list can be found [link|https://tinkerdifferent.com/resources/compact-mac-caps-list.5/|here].
This is a time failure, not user failure 9 times out of 10. Even then it's a thing that anyone who knows better gets out of the way when they get a computer with one of these "at risk" analog boards if it hasn't been redone. I can redo it and not have to worry about it... OR wait until I lose the computer until I can repair it. Which one sounds better?
The capacitors on the analog board are usually the culprit when this happens, but it can also sometimes be the flyback. While you can repair this, you do need to study how to handle a CRT safely so you do not injure or kill yourself. See here for general advice I have given in the past on the matter: [post|512379|new_window=true]; it's not something I recommend to beginners, but the lesser evil is leaving you guys without the information on how to do this right. The main rule is DO NOT TRUST ANY BLEEDER RESISTORS. It may work, but they burn out after a few years of being abused to quickly discharge 15-25k volts. The manufacturers knew this back then too; it was only expected to work for a few years and that was usually it. The odds of one from the 80s having any semblance of function left are just about zero at this point. While I have updated that answer (as I do every few years) as I use as a general starting point to give to beginners, it's been passed around a few times; that doesn't mean it isn't still valid. At this point our best advice on CRT safety lives here, as well as this (newly created) Wiki: [[Safely discharging CRT monitors]|new_window=true]
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The capacitors on the analog board are usually the culprit when this happens, but it can also sometimes be the flyback. While you can repair this, you do need to study how to handle a CRT safely so you do not injure or kill yourself. See here for general advice I have given in the past on the matter: [post|512379|new_window=true]; it's not something I recommend to beginners, but the lesser evil is leaving you guys without the information on how to do this right. The main rule is DO NOT TRUST ANY BLEEDER RESISTORS. It may work, but they burn out after a few years of being abused to quickly discharge 15-25k volts. The manufacturers knew this back then too; it was only expected to work for a few years and that was usually it. The odds of one from the 80s having any semblance of function left are just about zero at this point. While I have updated that answer (as I do every few years) as I use as a general starting point to give to beginners, it's been passed around a few times; that doesn't mean it isn't still valid. At this point our best advice on CRT safety lives here, as well as this (newly created) Wiki: [[Safely discharging CRT monitors|new_window=true]
This one isn't as bad being a ~15k tube (small color tubes tend to hover ~25k) but that's still enough to give you a nasty kick that will knock you on the ground. The capacitor list can be found [link|https://tinkerdifferent.com/resources/compact-mac-caps-list.5/|here].
This is a time failure, not user failure 9 times out of 10. Even then it's a thing that anyone who knows better gets out of the way when they get a computer with one of these "at risk" analog boards if it hasn't been redone. I can redo it and not have to worry about it... OR wait until I lose the computer until I can repair it. Which one sounds better?
The capacitors on the analog board are usually the culprit when this happens, but it can also sometimes be the flyback. While you can repair this, you do need to study how to handle a CRT safely so you do not injure or kill yourself. See here for general advice I have given in the past on the matter: [post|512379|new_window=true]; it's not something I recommend to beginners, but the lesser evil is leaving you guys without the information on how to do this right. The main rule is DO NOT TRUST ANY BLEEDER RESISTORS. It may work, but they burn out after a few years of being abused to quickly discharge 15-25k volts. The manufacturers knew this back then too; it was only expected to work for a few years and that was usually it. The odds of one from the 80s having any semblance of function left are just about zero at this point. While I have updated that answer (as I do every few years) as I use as a general starting point to give to beginners, it's been passed around a few times; that doesn't mean it isn't still valid. At this point our best advice on CRT safety lives here, as well as this (newly created) Wiki: https://www.ifixit.com/Wiki/Safely_discharging_CRT_monitors
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The capacitors on the analog board are usually the culprit when this happens, but it can also sometimes be the flyback. While you can repair this, you do need to study how to handle a CRT safely so you do not injure or kill yourself. See here for general advice I have given in the past on the matter: [post|512379|new_window=true]; it's not something I recommend to beginners, but the lesser evil is leaving you guys without the information on how to do this right. The main rule is DO NOT TRUST ANY BLEEDER RESISTORS. It may work, but they burn out after a few years of being abused to quickly discharge 15-25k volts. The manufacturers knew this back then too; it was only expected to work for a few years and that was usually it. The odds of one from the 80s having any semblance of function left are just about zero at this point. While I have updated that answer (as I do every few years) as I use as a general starting point to give to beginners, it's been passed around a few times; that doesn't mean it isn't still valid. At this point our best advice on CRT safety lives here, as well as this (newly created) Wiki: [[Safely discharging CRT monitors]|new_window=true]
This one isn't as bad being a ~15k tube (small color tubes tend to hover ~25k) but that's still enough to give you a nasty kick that will knock you on the ground. The capacitor list can be found [link|https://tinkerdifferent.com/resources/compact-mac-caps-list.5/|here].
This is a time failure, not user failure 9 times out of 10. Even then it's a thing that anyone who knows better gets out of the way when they get a computer with one of these "at risk" analog boards if it hasn't been redone. I can redo it and not have to worry about it... OR wait until I lose the computer until I can repair it. Which one sounds better?
The capacitors on the analog board are usually the culprit when this happens, but it can also sometimes be the flyback. While you can repair this, you do need to study how to handle a CRT safely so you do not injure or kill yourself. See here for general advice I have given in the past on the matter: [post|512379|new_window=true]; it's not something I recommend to beginners, but the lesser evil is leaving you guys without the information on how to do this right. The main rule is DO NOT TRUST ANY BLEEDER RESISTORS. It may work, but they burn out after a few years of being abused to quickly discharge 15-25k volts. The manufacturers knew this back then too; it was only expected to work for a few years and that was usually it. The odds of one from the 80s having any semblance of function left are just about zero at this point. While I have updated that answer (as I do every few years) as I use as a general starting point to give to beginners, it's been passed around a few times; that doesn't mean it isn't still valid. At this point our best advice on CRT safety lives here.
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The capacitors on the analog board are usually the culprit when this happens, but it can also sometimes be the flyback. While you can repair this, you do need to study how to handle a CRT safely so you do not injure or kill yourself. See here for general advice I have given in the past on the matter: [post|512379|new_window=true]; it's not something I recommend to beginners, but the lesser evil is leaving you guys without the information on how to do this right. The main rule is DO NOT TRUST ANY BLEEDER RESISTORS. It may work, but they burn out after a few years of being abused to quickly discharge 15-25k volts. The manufacturers knew this back then too; it was only expected to work for a few years and that was usually it. The odds of one from the 80s having any semblance of function left are just about zero at this point. While I have updated that answer (as I do every few years) as I use as a general starting point to give to beginners, it's been passed around a few times; that doesn't mean it isn't still valid. At this point our best advice on CRT safety lives here, as well as this (newly created) Wiki: https://www.ifixit.com/Wiki/Safely_discharging_CRT_monitors
This one isn't as bad being a ~15k tube (small color tubes tend to hover ~25k) but that's still enough to give you a nasty kick that will knock you on the ground. The capacitor list can be found [link|https://tinkerdifferent.com/resources/compact-mac-caps-list.5/|here].
This is a time failure, not user failure 9 times out of 10. Even then it's a thing that anyone who knows better gets out of the way when they get a computer with one of these "at risk" analog boards if it hasn't been redone. I can redo it and not have to worry about it... OR wait until I lose the computer until I can repair it. Which one sounds better?
The capacitors on the analog board are usually the culprit when this happens; but it can also sometimes be the flyback. While you can repair this, you do need to study up on CRT safety to not injure or kill yourself. See here for general advice I have given in the past: [post|512379|new_window=true]. My advice on the bleeder resistor remains true: Assume it's shot, discharge it accordingly. I have since updated this and yes I have kicked back to this a few times, but I do so because most of our best advice on CRT safety lives here.
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The capacitors on the analog board are usually the culprit when this happens, but it can also sometimes be the flyback. While you can repair this, you do need to study how to handle a CRT safely so you do not injure or kill yourself. See here for general advice I have given in the past on the matter: [post|512379|new_window=true]; it's not something I recommend to beginners, but the lesser evil is leaving you guys without the information on how to do this right. The main rule is DO NOT TRUST ANY BLEEDER RESISTORS. It may work, but they burn out after a few years of being abused to quickly discharge 15-25k volts. The manufacturers knew this back then too; it was only expected to work for a few years and that was usually it. The odds of one from the 80s having any semblance of function left are just about zero at this point. While I have updated that answer (as I do every few years) as I use as a general starting point to give to beginners, it's been passed around a few times; that doesn't mean it isn't still valid. At this point our best advice on CRT safety lives here.
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This one isn't as bad being a ~15k tube (color tubes tend to hover ~25k) but that's still enough to give you a nasty kick that will knock you on the ground. The capacitor list can be found [link|https://tinkerdifferent.com/resources/compact-mac-caps-list.5/|here].
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This one isn't as bad being a ~15k tube (small color tubes tend to hover ~25k) but that's still enough to give you a nasty kick that will knock you on the ground. The capacitor list can be found [link|https://tinkerdifferent.com/resources/compact-mac-caps-list.5/|here].
This is a time failure, not user failure 9 times out of 10. Even then it's a thing that anyone who knows better gets out of the way when they get a computer with one of these "at risk" analog boards if it hasn't been redone. I can redo it and not have to worry about it... OR wait until I lose the computer until I can repair it. Which one sounds better?
The capacitors on the analog board are usually the culprit when this happens; but it can also sometimes be the flyback. While you can repair this, you do need to study up on CRT safety to not injure or kill yourself. See here for general advice I have given in the past: [post|512379|new_window=true]. My advice on the bleeder resistor remains true: Assume it's shot, discharge it accordingly. I have since updated this and yes I have kicked back to this a few times, but I do so because most of our best advice on CRT safety lives here.
This one isn't as bad being a ~15k tube (color tubes tend to hover ~25k) but that's still enough to give you a nasty kick that will knock you on the ground. The capacitor list can be found [link|https://tinkerdifferent.com/resources/compact-mac-caps-list.5/|here].
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This is a time failure, not user failure 9 times out of 10. Even then it's a thing that anyone who knows better gets out of the way when they get a computer with one of these "at risk" analog boards if it hasn't been redone. I can redo it and get this mess solved, OR wait until I lose the computer until I can repair it.
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This is a time failure, not user failure 9 times out of 10. Even then it's a thing that anyone who knows better gets out of the way when they get a computer with one of these "at risk" analog boards if it hasn't been redone. I can redo it and not have to worry about it... OR wait until I lose the computer until I can repair it. Which one sounds better?
The capacitors on the analog board are usually the culprit when this happens; but it can also sometimes be the flyback. While you can repair this, you do need to study up on CRT safety to not injure or kill yourself. See here for general advice I have given in the past: [post|512379|new_window=true]. My advice on the bleeder resistor remains true: Assume it's shot, discharge it accordingly. I have since updated this and yes I have kicked back to this a few times, but I do so because most of our best advice on CRT safety lives here.
This one isn't as bad being a ~15k tube (color tubes tend to hover ~25k) but that's still enough to give you a nasty kick that will knock you on the ground. The capacitor list can be found [link|https://tinkerdifferent.com/resources/compact-mac-caps-list.5/|here].
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This is a time failure, not user failure 9 times out of 10.
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This is a time failure, not user failure 9 times out of 10. Even then it's a thing that anyone who knows better gets out of the way when they get a computer with one of these "at risk" analog boards if it hasn't been redone. I can redo it and get this mess solved, OR wait until I lose the computer until I can repair it.
The capacitors on the analog board are usually the culprit when this happens; but it can also sometimes be the flyback. While you can repair this, you do need to study up on CRT safety to not injure or kill yourself. See here for general advice I have given in the past: [post|512379|new_window=true]. My advice on the bleeder resistor remains true: Assume it's shot, discharge it accordingly. I have since updated this and yes I have kicked back to this a few times, but I do so because most of our best advice on CRT safety lives here.
This one isn't as bad being a ~15k tube (color tubes tend to hover ~25k) but that's still enough to give you a nasty kick that will knock you on the ground. The capacitor list can be found [link|https://tinkerdifferent.com/resources/compact-mac-caps-list.5/|here].
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This is a time failure, not user failure 9 times out of 10.
The capacitors on the analog board are usually the culprit when this happens; but it can also sometimes be the flyback. While you can repair this, you do need to study up on CRT safety to not injure or kill yourself. See here for general advice I have given in the past: [post|512379|new_window=true]. My advice on the bleeder resistor remains true: Assume it's shot, discharge it accordingly.
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The capacitors on the analog board are usually the culprit when this happens; but it can also sometimes be the flyback. While you can repair this, you do need to study up on CRT safety to not injure or kill yourself. See here for general advice I have given in the past: [post|512379|new_window=true]. My advice on the bleeder resistor remains true: Assume it's shot, discharge it accordingly. I have since updated this and yes I have kicked back to this a few times, but I do so because most of our best advice on CRT safety lives here.
This one isn't as bad being a ~15k tube (color tubes tend to hover ~25k) but that's still enough to give you a nasty kick that will knock you on the ground. The capacitor list can be found [link|https://tinkerdifferent.com/resources/compact-mac-caps-list.5/|here].
The capacitors on the analog board are usually the culprit when this happens; but it can also sometimes be the flyback. While you can repair this, you do need to study up on CRT safety to not injure or kill yourself. See here for general advice I have given in the past: [post|512379]
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The capacitors on the analog board are usually the culprit when this happens; but it can also sometimes be the flyback. While you can repair this, you do need to study up on CRT safety to not injure or kill yourself. See here for general advice I have given in the past: [post|512379|new_window=true]. My advice on the bleeder resistor remains true: Assume it's shot, discharge it accordingly.
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This one isn't as bad being a ~15k tube (color tubes tend to hover ~25k) but that's still enough to give you a nasty kick that will knock you on the ground. The capacitor list can be found [https://tinkerdifferent.com/resources/compact-mac-caps-list.5/|here|new_window=true].
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This one isn't as bad being a ~15k tube (color tubes tend to hover ~25k) but that's still enough to give you a nasty kick that will knock you on the ground. The capacitor list can be found [link|https://tinkerdifferent.com/resources/compact-mac-caps-list.5/|here].
The capacitors on the analog board are usually the culprit when this happens; but it can also sometimes be the flyback. While you can repair this, you do need to study up on CRT safety to not injure or kill yourself. See here for general advice I have given in the past: [post|512379]
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This one isn't as bad being a ~15k tube (color tubes tend to hover ~25k) but that's still enough to give you a nasty kick that will knock you on the ground.
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This one isn't as bad being a ~15k tube (color tubes tend to hover ~25k) but that's still enough to give you a nasty kick that will knock you on the ground. The capacitor list can be found [https://tinkerdifferent.com/resources/compact-mac-caps-list.5/|here|new_window=true].
The capacitors on the analog board are usually the culprit when this happens; but it can also sometimes be the flyback. While you can repair this, you do need to study up on CRT safety to not injure or kill yourself. See here for general advice I have given in the past: [post|512379]
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This one isn't as bad being a ~15k tube (color tubes tend to hover ~25k) but that's still enough to give you a nasty kick that will knock you on the ground.
The capacitors on the analog board are usually the culprit when this happens; but it can also sometimes be the flyback. While you can repair this, you do need to study up on CRT safety to not injure or kill yourself. See here for general advice I have given in the past: [post|512379]