crwdns2934243:0crwdne2934243:0 Nick
crwdns2934249:0crwdne2934249:0:
| **Answering for completion due to rough previous answers** | |
| This can be caused by a bad WiFi chip, software issues or a setting issue. | |
| - | In most cases (especially with |
| + | In most cases (especially with modern AC/AX routers) it’s a network security configuration issue - a lot of modern routers bias towards WPA3 over WPA2 so this stuff will continue to happen -- the wireless hardware Sony used doesn't see WPA3. This issue leaves you with a choice: |
| - | * Bad option (please, please avoid if possible): Powerline Ethernet. The reason I despise this option is unless you *need* to reach for these things |
| - | * Basic (reduced security): Systemwide WPA2-AES downgrade (PSK |
| - | ***NOTE: Expect your ISP to give you a hard time under the guise of “security” (especially if it’s one of those app |
| - | * Intermediate (secondary compromised, but main secured): |
| - | * Advanced (requires enterprise or business class gear from eBay, FB Marketplace or your preferred source of enterprise surplus): Setup 2 VLANs: VLAN 1 (main), and VLAN 2 (quarantined). ***NOTE: SOME prosumer routers support this, but you usually need a “managed” switch (Cisco, HPE, Aruba, Juniper or L2/L2+ TP-Link) or a capable “Smart Web” |
| + | * Bad option (please, please avoid if possible): Powerline Ethernet. The reason I despise this option is unless you *need* to reach for these things there are better options. ***Powerline Ethernet is only as good as your house wiring; it's the Konami code of networking because if you’re dealing with vintage 20+-year-old contractor-grade Romex, it’s gonna reflect the quality of contractor-grade Romex. I get it - going into your attic or basement isn’t fun, but a good Cat7 wall run is way better in the long term.*** |
| + | * Basic (reduced security): Systemwide WPA2-AES downgrade (AES>PSK if possible for security with less of a compromise -- how you set this varies per router, so look into it based on your specific router. |
| + | ** ***NOTE: Expect your ISP to give you a hard time under the guise of “security” (especially if it’s one of those app-managed ones they are now using, like the Spectrum AC routers), especially if you cannot change it on the admin side. IT CAN be done, but they may lie or deny it can be done so push back as needed. I have had to push back against this stuff and cite things like my A+ cert to get them to listen before. This tradeoff is fine because realistically WPA3 isn't a major security bump, but it's not something you SHOULD DO unless there's a legitimate need.*** |
| + | * Intermediate (secondary compromised, but main secured): If you can setup a secondary router with WPA2-AES (Again, PSK IS discouraged but so be it if all else fails; it's not as bad here) but on your normal network. These will coexist if set as a repeater and the ISPs cannot touch you for this, but it requires a capable router (ASUSWRT, DD-WRT or stock FW with the option required; likely needs DD-WRT or ASUSWRT). |
| + | * Advanced (requires enterprise or business class gear from eBay, FB Marketplace, or your preferred source of enterprise surplus): Setup 2 VLANs: VLAN 1 (main), and VLAN 2 (quarantined). ***NOTE: SOME prosumer routers support this, but you usually need a “managed” switch (Cisco, HPE, Aruba, Juniper or L2/L2+ TP-Link) or a capable “Smart Web” switch (Ex: TP-Link DE/PE/MPE). You want to set this up as a quarantined network for your PS3 and other devices as needed; do not add things that do not need it. This is the fastest way; no need to tell ISPs off and it keeps your main network untouched. Essentially you just built a homelab here since you have to use enterprise-level equipment or good business class; this is CHEAP BUT you have to manage it yourself.*** |
| If it’s not the network, start with [link|https://manuals.playstation.net/document/en/ps3/current/settings/restore.html|resetting the PS3 back to factory settings], and pray. You may even need to format the PS3, so backup the console first. If it doesn’t fix that way, the WiFi chip is bad. |
crwdns2915684:0crwdne2915684:0:
open
crwdns2934245:0crwdne2934245:0 Nick
crwdns2934249:0crwdne2934249:0:
| **Answering for completion due to rough previous answers** | |
| This can be caused by a bad WiFi chip, software issues or a setting issue. | |
| In most cases (especially with a modern AC/AX router) it’s a network security issue - especially modern routers which typically use WPA3 out of the box. The WLAN chip Sony used here isn’t WPA3 compatible. This issue leaves you with a choice: | |
| - | * Bad option (please, please avoid if possible): Powerline Ethernet. The reason I despise this option is unless you *need* to reach for these things, there’s better options. ***Powerline is only as good as the house wiring. It’s the Konami code of networking because if you’re dealing with |
| + | * Bad option (please, please avoid if possible): Powerline Ethernet. The reason I despise this option is unless you *need* to reach for these things, there’s better options. ***Powerline is only as good as the house wiring. It’s the Konami code of networking because if you’re dealing with vintage 20+ year old Romex, it’s gonna fail hard. I get it - going into your attic or basement isn’t fun, but a good Cat6a wall run (with Cat6 on the other end) from the office to your PS3 won’t be crap. Cat7 is expensive for home use.*** |
| * Basic (reduced security): Systemwide WPA2-AES downgrade (PSK is less secure, so AES>PSK when possible!).[br] | |
| ***NOTE: Expect your ISP to give you a hard time under the guise of “security” (especially if it’s one of those app managed specials like the modern Spectrum router) and you can’t change it - they may lie, so push back as needed with confidence. Do not be afraid to cite credentials like an A+ cert against the ISP. The thing is WPA3 isn’t a big of a bump from WPA2-AES in regard to security, so a full system downgrade is an option - just a subpar one.*** | |
| * Intermediate (secondary compromised, but main secured): Secondary router with WPA2-AES (Again, PSK discouraged but so be it if all else fails) as an option/default on the same network. These will coexist and one acts like a repeater (the router must be using ASUSWRT for this, or support DD-WRT; stock FW rarely works in “repeater mode”.) | |
| * Advanced (requires enterprise or business class gear from eBay, FB Marketplace or your preferred source of enterprise surplus): Setup 2 VLANs: VLAN 1 (main), and VLAN 2 (quarantined). ***NOTE: SOME prosumer routers support this, but you usually need a “managed” switch (Cisco, HPE, Aruba, Juniper or L2/L2+ TP-Link) or a capable “Smart Web” like the lower end managed TP-Link ones (DE, PE or MPE). For the quarantined network, your best bet is an old 802.11ac router that can run DD-WRT with WPA2-AES selected, or ASUSWRT. This is the fastest way, since you don’t need to tell your ISP off, and your main network isn’t compromised. You’re basically building a “homelab”, but if you can hold your own go for it. The equipment is CHEAP.*** | |
| If it’s not the network, start with [link|https://manuals.playstation.net/document/en/ps3/current/settings/restore.html|resetting the PS3 back to factory settings], and pray. You may even need to format the PS3, so backup the console first. If it doesn’t fix that way, the WiFi chip is bad. |
crwdns2915684:0crwdne2915684:0:
open
crwdns2934245:0crwdne2934245:0 Nick
crwdns2934249:0crwdne2934249:0:
| **Answering for completion due to rough previous answers** | |
| This can be caused by a bad WiFi chip, software issues or a setting issue. | |
| In most cases (especially with a modern AC/AX router) it’s a network security issue - especially modern routers which typically use WPA3 out of the box. The WLAN chip Sony used here isn’t WPA3 compatible. This issue leaves you with a choice: | |
| - | * Bad option (please, please avoid if possible): Powerline Ethernet. The reason I despise this option is unless you *need* to reach for these things, there’s better options. ***Powerline is only as good as the |
| - | * Basic (reduced security): |
| - | ***NOTE: Expect your ISP to give you a hard time under the guise of “security” if it’s one of those |
| - | * Intermediate (secondary compromised, but main secured): Secondary router with WPA2-AES (Again, PSK discouraged but so be it if all else fails) as an option/default on the same network. |
| - | * Advanced (requires enterprise or business class gear from eBay, FB Marketplace or your preferred source of surplus): Setup |
| + | * Bad option (please, please avoid if possible): Powerline Ethernet. The reason I despise this option is unless you *need* to reach for these things, there’s better options. ***Powerline is only as good as the house wiring. It’s the Konami code of networking because if you’re dealing with ancient crappy Romex, it’s gonna fail hard. I get it - going into your attic or basement isn’t fun, but a good Cat6a wall run (with Cat6 on the other end) from the office to your PS3 won’t be crap. Cat7 is expensive for home use.*** |
| + | * Basic (reduced security): Systemwide WPA2-AES downgrade (PSK is less secure, so AES>PSK when possible!).[br] |
| + | ***NOTE: Expect your ISP to give you a hard time under the guise of “security” (especially if it’s one of those app managed specials like the modern Spectrum router) and you can’t change it - they may lie, so push back as needed with confidence. Do not be afraid to cite credentials like an A+ cert against the ISP. The thing is WPA3 isn’t a big of a bump from WPA2-AES in regard to security, so a full system downgrade is an option - just a subpar one.*** |
| + | * Intermediate (secondary compromised, but main secured): Secondary router with WPA2-AES (Again, PSK discouraged but so be it if all else fails) as an option/default on the same network. These will coexist and one acts like a repeater (the router must be using ASUSWRT for this, or support DD-WRT; stock FW rarely works in “repeater mode”.) |
| + | * Advanced (requires enterprise or business class gear from eBay, FB Marketplace or your preferred source of enterprise surplus): Setup 2 VLANs: VLAN 1 (main), and VLAN 2 (quarantined). ***NOTE: SOME prosumer routers support this, but you usually need a “managed” switch (Cisco, HPE, Aruba, Juniper or L2/L2+ TP-Link) or a capable “Smart Web” like the lower end managed TP-Link ones (DE, PE or MPE). For the quarantined network, your best bet is an old 802.11ac router that can run DD-WRT with WPA2-AES selected, or ASUSWRT. This is the fastest way, since you don’t need to tell your ISP off, and your main network isn’t compromised. You’re basically building a “homelab”, but if you can hold your own go for it. The equipment is CHEAP.*** |
| If it’s not the network, start with [link|https://manuals.playstation.net/document/en/ps3/current/settings/restore.html|resetting the PS3 back to factory settings], and pray. You may even need to format the PS3, so backup the console first. If it doesn’t fix that way, the WiFi chip is bad. |
crwdns2915684:0crwdne2915684:0:
open
crwdns2934245:0crwdne2934245:0 Nick
crwdns2934249:0crwdne2934249:0:
| **Answering for completion due to rough previous answers** | |
| This can be caused by a bad WiFi chip, software issues or a setting issue. | |
| In most cases (especially with a modern AC/AX router) it’s a network security issue - especially modern routers which typically use WPA3 out of the box. The WLAN chip Sony used here isn’t WPA3 compatible. This issue leaves you with a choice: | |
| - | * Bad option (please, please avoid if possible): Powerline Ethernet. The reason I despise this option is unless you *need* to reach for these things, there’s better options. ***Powerline is only as good as the wiring in your house and is honestly the network equivalent to the Konami code. If your home’s wiring is hopeless beyond supplying power, so is Powerline.*** |
| + | * Bad option (please, please avoid if possible): Powerline Ethernet. The reason I despise this option is unless you *need* to reach for these things, there’s better options. ***Powerline is only as good as the wiring in your house and is honestly the network equivalent to the Konami code. If your home’s wiring is hopeless beyond supplying power, so is Powerline. I get it - going into your attic or basement ain’t fun, but a good Cat6a wall run from the office to your PS3 won’t be crap.*** |
| * Basic (reduced security): Downgrade to WPA2-AES systemwide (PSK is less secure, so AES>PSK when possible!).[br] | |
| ***NOTE: Expect your ISP to give you a hard time under the guise of “security” if it’s one of those web managed specials like the modern Spectrum router) and you can’t change it - they may lie, so know your router so you can push back, and do not be afraid to cite credentials like if you hold an A+ cert as a weapon against their reps. WP3 isn’t a big of a bump from WPA2-AES in regard to security, so it is an option - just a subpar one.*** | |
| * Intermediate (secondary compromised, but main secured): Secondary router with WPA2-AES (Again, PSK discouraged but so be it if all else fails) as an option/default on the same network. | |
| * Advanced (requires enterprise or business class gear from eBay, FB Marketplace or your preferred source of surplus): Setup a VLAN with your main network on VLAN 1 and the legacy network on VLAN 2 to quarantine the risky LAN on the network. ***SOME prosumer routers do it, but you usually need a Cisco, HPE, Aruba or Juniper switch for example and two routers. Your best bet is an old 802.11n/ac router that can run DD-WRT. This is the fastest way, since you don’t need to tell your ISP off. If you can manage these things, this is the way to do it even though you basically have a “home lab”.*** | |
| If it’s not the network, start with [link|https://manuals.playstation.net/document/en/ps3/current/settings/restore.html|resetting the PS3 back to factory settings], and pray. You may even need to format the PS3, so backup the console first. If it doesn’t fix that way, the WiFi chip is bad. |
crwdns2915684:0crwdne2915684:0:
open
crwdns2934245:0crwdne2934245:0 Nick
crwdns2934249:0crwdne2934249:0:
| **Answering for completion due to rough previous answers** | |
| This can be caused by a bad WiFi chip, software issues or a setting issue. | |
| - | In most cases (especially with a modern AC/AX router) it’s a network security issue - especially modern routers which typically use WPA3 out of the box. The chip Sony used |
| + | In most cases (especially with a modern AC/AX router) it’s a network security issue - especially modern routers which typically use WPA3 out of the box. The WLAN chip Sony used here isn’t WPA3 compatible. This issue leaves you with a choice: |
| + | * Bad option (please, please avoid if possible): Powerline Ethernet. The reason I despise this option is unless you *need* to reach for these things, there’s better options. ***Powerline is only as good as the wiring in your house and is honestly the network equivalent to the Konami code. If your home’s wiring is hopeless beyond supplying power, so is Powerline.*** |
| * Basic (reduced security): Downgrade to WPA2-AES systemwide (PSK is less secure, so AES>PSK when possible!).[br] | |
| ***NOTE: Expect your ISP to give you a hard time under the guise of “security” if it’s one of those web managed specials like the modern Spectrum router) and you can’t change it - they may lie, so know your router so you can push back, and do not be afraid to cite credentials like if you hold an A+ cert as a weapon against their reps. WP3 isn’t a big of a bump from WPA2-AES in regard to security, so it is an option - just a subpar one.*** | |
| * Intermediate (secondary compromised, but main secured): Secondary router with WPA2-AES (Again, PSK discouraged but so be it if all else fails) as an option/default on the same network. | |
| * Advanced (requires enterprise or business class gear from eBay, FB Marketplace or your preferred source of surplus): Setup a VLAN with your main network on VLAN 1 and the legacy network on VLAN 2 to quarantine the risky LAN on the network. ***SOME prosumer routers do it, but you usually need a Cisco, HPE, Aruba or Juniper switch for example and two routers. Your best bet is an old 802.11n/ac router that can run DD-WRT. This is the fastest way, since you don’t need to tell your ISP off. If you can manage these things, this is the way to do it even though you basically have a “home lab”.*** | |
| If it’s not the network, start with [link|https://manuals.playstation.net/document/en/ps3/current/settings/restore.html|resetting the PS3 back to factory settings], and pray. You may even need to format the PS3, so backup the console first. If it doesn’t fix that way, the WiFi chip is bad. |
crwdns2915684:0crwdne2915684:0:
open
crwdns2934245:0crwdne2934245:0 Nick
crwdns2934249:0crwdne2934249:0:
| **Answering for completion due to rough previous answers** | |
| This can be caused by a bad WiFi chip, software issues or a setting issue. | |
| In most cases (especially with a modern AC/AX router) it’s a network security issue - especially modern routers which typically use WPA3 out of the box. The chip Sony used wasn’t released when WPA3 came out. This issue leaves you with a choice: | |
| * Basic (reduced security): Downgrade to WPA2-AES systemwide (PSK is less secure, so AES>PSK when possible!).[br] | |
| ***NOTE: Expect your ISP to give you a hard time under the guise of “security” if it’s one of those web managed specials like the modern Spectrum router) and you can’t change it - they may lie, so know your router so you can push back, and do not be afraid to cite credentials like if you hold an A+ cert as a weapon against their reps. WP3 isn’t a big of a bump from WPA2-AES in regard to security, so it is an option - just a subpar one.*** | |
| * Intermediate (secondary compromised, but main secured): Secondary router with WPA2-AES (Again, PSK discouraged but so be it if all else fails) as an option/default on the same network. | |
| - | * Advanced (requires enterprise or business class gear from eBay, FB Marketplace or your preferred source of surplus): Setup a VLAN with your main network on VLAN 1 and the legacy network on VLAN 2. ***SOME prosumer routers do it, but you usually need a Cisco, HPE, Aruba or Juniper switch for example and two routers. Your best bet is an old 802.11n/ac router that can run DD-WRT. This is the fastest way, since you don’t need to tell your ISP off. If you can manage these things, this is the way to do it even though you basically have a “home lab”.*** |
| + | * Advanced (requires enterprise or business class gear from eBay, FB Marketplace or your preferred source of surplus): Setup a VLAN with your main network on VLAN 1 and the legacy network on VLAN 2 to quarantine the risky LAN on the network. ***SOME prosumer routers do it, but you usually need a Cisco, HPE, Aruba or Juniper switch for example and two routers. Your best bet is an old 802.11n/ac router that can run DD-WRT. This is the fastest way, since you don’t need to tell your ISP off. If you can manage these things, this is the way to do it even though you basically have a “home lab”.*** |
| If it’s not the network, start with [link|https://manuals.playstation.net/document/en/ps3/current/settings/restore.html|resetting the PS3 back to factory settings], and pray. You may even need to format the PS3, so backup the console first. If it doesn’t fix that way, the WiFi chip is bad. |
crwdns2915684:0crwdne2915684:0:
open
crwdns2934245:0crwdne2934245:0 Nick
crwdns2934249:0crwdne2934249:0:
| **Answering for completion due to rough previous answers** | |
| This can be caused by a bad WiFi chip, software issues or a setting issue. | |
| In most cases (especially with a modern AC/AX router) it’s a network security issue - especially modern routers which typically use WPA3 out of the box. The chip Sony used wasn’t released when WPA3 came out. This issue leaves you with a choice: | |
| * Basic (reduced security): Downgrade to WPA2-AES systemwide (PSK is less secure, so AES>PSK when possible!).[br] | |
| - | ***NOTE: Expect your ISP to give you a hard time under the guise of “security” if it’s one of those web managed specials like the modern Spectrum router) and you can’t change it. WP3 isn’t a big of a bump from WPA2-AES in regard to security, so it is an option - just a subpar one.*** |
| + | ***NOTE: Expect your ISP to give you a hard time under the guise of “security” if it’s one of those web managed specials like the modern Spectrum router) and you can’t change it - they may lie, so know your router so you can push back, and do not be afraid to cite credentials like if you hold an A+ cert as a weapon against their reps. WP3 isn’t a big of a bump from WPA2-AES in regard to security, so it is an option - just a subpar one.*** |
| * Intermediate (secondary compromised, but main secured): Secondary router with WPA2-AES (Again, PSK discouraged but so be it if all else fails) as an option/default on the same network. | |
| * Advanced (requires enterprise or business class gear from eBay, FB Marketplace or your preferred source of surplus): Setup a VLAN with your main network on VLAN 1 and the legacy network on VLAN 2. ***SOME prosumer routers do it, but you usually need a Cisco, HPE, Aruba or Juniper switch for example and two routers. Your best bet is an old 802.11n/ac router that can run DD-WRT. This is the fastest way, since you don’t need to tell your ISP off. If you can manage these things, this is the way to do it even though you basically have a “home lab”.*** | |
| If it’s not the network, start with [link|https://manuals.playstation.net/document/en/ps3/current/settings/restore.html|resetting the PS3 back to factory settings], and pray. You may even need to format the PS3, so backup the console first. If it doesn’t fix that way, the WiFi chip is bad. |
crwdns2915684:0crwdne2915684:0:
open
crwdns2934245:0crwdne2934245:0 Nick
crwdns2934249:0crwdne2934249:0:
| **Answering for completion due to rough previous answers** | |
| This can be caused by a bad WiFi chip, software issues or a setting issue. | |
| In most cases (especially with a modern AC/AX router) it’s a network security issue - especially modern routers which typically use WPA3 out of the box. The chip Sony used wasn’t released when WPA3 came out. This issue leaves you with a choice: | |
| - | * Basic (reduced security): Downgrade to WPA2-PSK systemwide. ***NOTE: Expect your ISP to give you a hard time under the guise of “security” if it’s one of those web managed specials like the modern Spectrum router) and you can’t change it. WP3 isn’t that big of a bump from WPA2-AES in regard to security.*** |
| - | * Intermediate (secondary compromised, but main secured): Secondary router with WPA2 as an option/default on the same network |
| + | * Basic (reduced security): Downgrade to WPA2-AES systemwide (PSK is less secure, so AES>PSK when possible!).[br] |
| + | ***NOTE: Expect your ISP to give you a hard time under the guise of “security” if it’s one of those web managed specials like the modern Spectrum router) and you can’t change it. WP3 isn’t a big of a bump from WPA2-AES in regard to security, so it is an option - just a subpar one.*** |
| + | * Intermediate (secondary compromised, but main secured): Secondary router with WPA2-AES (Again, PSK discouraged but so be it if all else fails) as an option/default on the same network. |
| * Advanced (requires enterprise or business class gear from eBay, FB Marketplace or your preferred source of surplus): Setup a VLAN with your main network on VLAN 1 and the legacy network on VLAN 2. ***SOME prosumer routers do it, but you usually need a Cisco, HPE, Aruba or Juniper switch for example and two routers. Your best bet is an old 802.11n/ac router that can run DD-WRT. This is the fastest way, since you don’t need to tell your ISP off. If you can manage these things, this is the way to do it even though you basically have a “home lab”.*** | |
| If it’s not the network, start with [link|https://manuals.playstation.net/document/en/ps3/current/settings/restore.html|resetting the PS3 back to factory settings], and pray. You may even need to format the PS3, so backup the console first. If it doesn’t fix that way, the WiFi chip is bad. |
crwdns2915684:0crwdne2915684:0:
open
crwdns2934245:0crwdne2934245:0 Nick
crwdns2934249:0crwdne2934249:0:
| **Answering for completion due to rough previous answers** | |
| This can be caused by a bad WiFi chip, software issues or a setting issue. | |
| In most cases (especially with a modern AC/AX router) it’s a network security issue - especially modern routers which typically use WPA3 out of the box. The chip Sony used wasn’t released when WPA3 came out. This issue leaves you with a choice: | |
| * Basic (reduced security): Downgrade to WPA2-PSK systemwide. ***NOTE: Expect your ISP to give you a hard time under the guise of “security” if it’s one of those web managed specials like the modern Spectrum router) and you can’t change it. WP3 isn’t that big of a bump from WPA2-AES in regard to security.*** | |
| * Intermediate (secondary compromised, but main secured): Secondary router with WPA2 as an option/default on the same network | |
| - | * Advanced (requires enterprise or business class gear from eBay, FB Marketplace or your preferred source of surplus): Setup a VLAN with your main network on VLAN 1 and the legacy network on VLAN 2. ***SOME prosumer routers do it, but you usually need a Cisco, HPE, Aruba or Juniper switch for example and two routers. Your best bet is an old 802.11n/ac router that can run DD-WRT. This is the fastest way, since you don’t need to tell your ISP off. If you can manage these things, this is the way to do it.*** |
| + | * Advanced (requires enterprise or business class gear from eBay, FB Marketplace or your preferred source of surplus): Setup a VLAN with your main network on VLAN 1 and the legacy network on VLAN 2. ***SOME prosumer routers do it, but you usually need a Cisco, HPE, Aruba or Juniper switch for example and two routers. Your best bet is an old 802.11n/ac router that can run DD-WRT. This is the fastest way, since you don’t need to tell your ISP off. If you can manage these things, this is the way to do it even though you basically have a “home lab”.*** |
| If it’s not the network, start with [link|https://manuals.playstation.net/document/en/ps3/current/settings/restore.html|resetting the PS3 back to factory settings], and pray. You may even need to format the PS3, so backup the console first. If it doesn’t fix that way, the WiFi chip is bad. |
crwdns2915684:0crwdne2915684:0:
open
crwdns2934245:0crwdne2934245:0 Nick
crwdns2934249:0crwdne2934249:0:
| **Answering for completion due to rough previous answers** | |
| This can be caused by a bad WiFi chip, software issues or a setting issue. | |
| In most cases (especially with a modern AC/AX router) it’s a network security issue - especially modern routers which typically use WPA3 out of the box. The chip Sony used wasn’t released when WPA3 came out. This issue leaves you with a choice: | |
| * Basic (reduced security): Downgrade to WPA2-PSK systemwide. ***NOTE: Expect your ISP to give you a hard time under the guise of “security” if it’s one of those web managed specials like the modern Spectrum router) and you can’t change it. WP3 isn’t that big of a bump from WPA2-AES in regard to security.*** | |
| * Intermediate (secondary compromised, but main secured): Secondary router with WPA2 as an option/default on the same network | |
| - | * Advanced (requires enterprise or business class gear from eBay, FB Marketplace or your preferred source of surplus): Setup a VLAN with your main network on VLAN 1 and the legacy network on VLAN 2. ***SOME prosumer routers do it, but you usually need a Cisco, HPE, Aruba |
| + | * Advanced (requires enterprise or business class gear from eBay, FB Marketplace or your preferred source of surplus): Setup a VLAN with your main network on VLAN 1 and the legacy network on VLAN 2. ***SOME prosumer routers do it, but you usually need a Cisco, HPE, Aruba or Juniper switch for example and two routers. Your best bet is an old 802.11n/ac router that can run DD-WRT. This is the fastest way, since you don’t need to tell your ISP off. If you can manage these things, this is the way to do it.*** |
| If it’s not the network, start with [link|https://manuals.playstation.net/document/en/ps3/current/settings/restore.html|resetting the PS3 back to factory settings], and pray. You may even need to format the PS3, so backup the console first. If it doesn’t fix that way, the WiFi chip is bad. |
crwdns2915684:0crwdne2915684:0:
open
crwdns2934245:0crwdne2934245:0 Nick
crwdns2934249:0crwdne2934249:0:
| **Answering for completion due to rough previous answers** | |
| This can be caused by a bad WiFi chip, software issues or a setting issue. | |
| In most cases (especially with a modern AC/AX router) it’s a network security issue - especially modern routers which typically use WPA3 out of the box. The chip Sony used wasn’t released when WPA3 came out. This issue leaves you with a choice: | |
| * Basic (reduced security): Downgrade to WPA2-PSK systemwide. ***NOTE: Expect your ISP to give you a hard time under the guise of “security” if it’s one of those web managed specials like the modern Spectrum router) and you can’t change it. WP3 isn’t that big of a bump from WPA2-AES in regard to security.*** | |
| * Intermediate (secondary compromised, but main secured): Secondary router with WPA2 as an option/default on the same network | |
| - | * Advanced (requires enterprise or business class gear from eBay, FB Marketplace or your preferred source of surplus): Setup a VLAN with your main network on VLAN 1 and the legacy network on VLAN 2. ***SOME prosumer routers do it, but you usually need a Cisco, HPE, Aruba, Juniper switch for example and two routers. Your best bet is an old 802.11n/ac router that can run DD-WRT.*** |
| + | * Advanced (requires enterprise or business class gear from eBay, FB Marketplace or your preferred source of surplus): Setup a VLAN with your main network on VLAN 1 and the legacy network on VLAN 2. ***SOME prosumer routers do it, but you usually need a Cisco, HPE, Aruba, Juniper switch for example and two routers. Your best bet is an old 802.11n/ac router that can run DD-WRT. This is the fastest way, since you don’t need to tell your ISP off. If you can manage these things, this is the way to do it.*** |
| If it’s not the network, start with [link|https://manuals.playstation.net/document/en/ps3/current/settings/restore.html|resetting the PS3 back to factory settings], and pray. You may even need to format the PS3, so backup the console first. If it doesn’t fix that way, the WiFi chip is bad. |
crwdns2915684:0crwdne2915684:0:
open
crwdns2934245:0crwdne2934245:0 Nick
crwdns2934249:0crwdne2934249:0:
| **Answering for completion due to rough previous answers** | |
| This can be caused by a bad WiFi chip, software issues or a setting issue. | |
| In most cases (especially with a modern AC/AX router) it’s a network security issue - especially modern routers which typically use WPA3 out of the box. The chip Sony used wasn’t released when WPA3 came out. This issue leaves you with a choice: | |
| - | * Basic (reduced security): Downgrade to WPA2-PSK systemwide |
| + | * Basic (reduced security): Downgrade to WPA2-PSK systemwide. ***NOTE: Expect your ISP to give you a hard time under the guise of “security” if it’s one of those web managed specials like the modern Spectrum router) and you can’t change it. WP3 isn’t that big of a bump from WPA2-AES in regard to security.*** |
| * Intermediate (secondary compromised, but main secured): Secondary router with WPA2 as an option/default on the same network | |
| * Advanced (requires enterprise or business class gear from eBay, FB Marketplace or your preferred source of surplus): Setup a VLAN with your main network on VLAN 1 and the legacy network on VLAN 2. ***SOME prosumer routers do it, but you usually need a Cisco, HPE, Aruba, Juniper switch for example and two routers. Your best bet is an old 802.11n/ac router that can run DD-WRT.*** | |
| If it’s not the network, start with [link|https://manuals.playstation.net/document/en/ps3/current/settings/restore.html|resetting the PS3 back to factory settings], and pray. You may even need to format the PS3, so backup the console first. If it doesn’t fix that way, the WiFi chip is bad. |
crwdns2915684:0crwdne2915684:0:
open
crwdns2934245:0crwdne2934245:0 Nick
crwdns2934249:0crwdne2934249:0:
| **Answering for completion due to rough previous answers** | |
| This can be caused by a bad WiFi chip, software issues or a setting issue. | |
| - | In most cases (especially with a modern AC/AX router) it’s a network security issue - especially modern routers which typically use WPA3 out of the box. The chip Sony used wasn’t released when WPA3 came out. This leaves you with a choice: |
| + | In most cases (especially with a modern AC/AX router) it’s a network security issue - especially modern routers which typically use WPA3 out of the box. The chip Sony used wasn’t released when WPA3 came out. This issue leaves you with a choice: |
| + | * Basic (reduced security): Downgrade to WPA2-PSK systemwide |
| + | * Intermediate (secondary compromised, but main secured): Secondary router with WPA2 as an option/default on the same network |
| + | * Advanced (requires enterprise or business class gear from eBay, FB Marketplace or your preferred source of surplus): Setup a VLAN with your main network on VLAN 1 and the legacy network on VLAN 2. ***SOME prosumer routers do it, but you usually need a Cisco, HPE, Aruba, Juniper switch for example and two routers. Your best bet is an old 802.11n/ac router that can run DD-WRT.*** |
| If it’s not the network, start with [link|https://manuals.playstation.net/document/en/ps3/current/settings/restore.html|resetting the PS3 back to factory settings], and pray. You may even need to format the PS3, so backup the console first. If it doesn’t fix that way, the WiFi chip is bad. |
crwdns2915684:0crwdne2915684:0:
open
crwdns2934245:0crwdne2934245:0 Nick
crwdns2934249:0crwdne2934249:0:
| - | **Answering for completion** |
|---|---|
| + | **Answering for completion due to rough previous answers** |
| This can be caused by a bad WiFi chip, software issues or a setting issue. | |
| In most cases (especially with a modern AC/AX router) it’s a network security issue - especially modern routers which typically use WPA3 out of the box. The chip Sony used wasn’t released when WPA3 came out. This leaves you with a choice: Downgrade to WPA2-PSK systemwide (reduced security), setup a VLAN (not possible on ISP leased routers, and only a few consumer routers. This is really only an option for enterprise gear like Cisco, HPE and Aruba 95% of the time), or setup two routers on the same network - you can DD-WRT a old 802.11n Linksys if all else fails here if it came down to it. | |
| If it’s not the network, start with [link|https://manuals.playstation.net/document/en/ps3/current/settings/restore.html|resetting the PS3 back to factory settings], and pray. You may even need to format the PS3, so backup the console first. If it doesn’t fix that way, the WiFi chip is bad. |
crwdns2915684:0crwdne2915684:0:
open
crwdns2934245:0crwdne2934245:0 Nick
crwdns2934249:0crwdne2934249:0:
| **Answering for completion** | |
| This can be caused by a bad WiFi chip, software issues or a setting issue. | |
| - | In most cases (especially with a modern AC/AX router) it’s a network security issue - especially modern routers which typically use WPA3 out of the box. The chip Sony used wasn’t released when WPA3 came out. This leaves you with a choice: Downgrade to WPA2-PSK systemwide (reduced security), setup a VLAN (not possible on ISP leased routers, and only a few consumer routers. This is really only an option for enterprise gear like Cisco, HPE and Aruba 95% of the time), or setup two routers on the same network. |
| + | In most cases (especially with a modern AC/AX router) it’s a network security issue - especially modern routers which typically use WPA3 out of the box. The chip Sony used wasn’t released when WPA3 came out. This leaves you with a choice: Downgrade to WPA2-PSK systemwide (reduced security), setup a VLAN (not possible on ISP leased routers, and only a few consumer routers. This is really only an option for enterprise gear like Cisco, HPE and Aruba 95% of the time), or setup two routers on the same network - you can DD-WRT a old 802.11n Linksys if all else fails here if it came down to it. |
| - | If it’s not the network, start with [https://manuals.playstation.net/document/en/ps3/current/settings/restore.html|resetting the PS3 back to factory settings], and pray. You may even need to format the PS3, so backup the console first. If it doesn’t fix that way, the WiFi chip is bad. |
| + | If it’s not the network, start with [link|https://manuals.playstation.net/document/en/ps3/current/settings/restore.html|resetting the PS3 back to factory settings], and pray. You may even need to format the PS3, so backup the console first. If it doesn’t fix that way, the WiFi chip is bad. |
crwdns2915684:0crwdne2915684:0:
open
crwdns2934245:0crwdne2934245:0 Nick
crwdns2934249:0crwdne2934249:0:
| **Answering for completion** | |
| This can be caused by a bad WiFi chip, software issues or a setting issue. | |
| In most cases (especially with a modern AC/AX router) it’s a network security issue - especially modern routers which typically use WPA3 out of the box. The chip Sony used wasn’t released when WPA3 came out. This leaves you with a choice: Downgrade to WPA2-PSK systemwide (reduced security), setup a VLAN (not possible on ISP leased routers, and only a few consumer routers. This is really only an option for enterprise gear like Cisco, HPE and Aruba 95% of the time), or setup two routers on the same network. | |
| - | If it’s not the network, start with resetting the PS3 back to factory settings, and pray. You may even need to format the PS3, so backup the console first. If it doesn’t fix that way, the WiFi chip is bad. |
| + | If it’s not the network, start with [https://manuals.playstation.net/document/en/ps3/current/settings/restore.html|resetting the PS3 back to factory settings], and pray. You may even need to format the PS3, so backup the console first. If it doesn’t fix that way, the WiFi chip is bad. |
crwdns2915684:0crwdne2915684:0:
open
crwdns2934245:0crwdne2934245:0 Nick
crwdns2934249:0crwdne2934249:0:
| **Answering for completion** | |
| This can be caused by a bad WiFi chip, software issues or a setting issue. | |
| - | In most cases (especially with a modern AC/AX router) which |
| + | In most cases (especially with a modern AC/AX router) it’s a network security issue - especially modern routers which typically use WPA3 out of the box. The chip Sony used wasn’t released when WPA3 came out. This leaves you with a choice: Downgrade to WPA2-PSK systemwide (reduced security), setup a VLAN (not possible on ISP leased routers, and only a few consumer routers. This is really only an option for enterprise gear like Cisco, HPE and Aruba 95% of the time), or setup two routers on the same network. |
| If it’s not the network, start with resetting the PS3 back to factory settings, and pray. You may even need to format the PS3, so backup the console first. If it doesn’t fix that way, the WiFi chip is bad. |
crwdns2915684:0crwdne2915684:0:
open
crwdns2934241:0crwdne2934241:0 Nick
crwdns2934249:0crwdne2934249:0:
**Answering for completion** This can be caused by a bad WiFi chip, software issues or a setting issue. In most cases (especially with a modern AC/AX router) which prefers WPA3 the PS3 cannot read this - the chip wasn’t released when WPA3 came out. This leaves you with a choice: Downgrade to WPA2-PSK systemwide (reduced security), setup a VLAN (not possible on ISP leased routers, and only a few consumer routers. This is really only an option for enterprise gear like Cisco, HPE and Aruba 95% of the time), or setup two routers on the same network. If it’s not the network, start with resetting the PS3 back to factory settings, and pray. You may even need to format the PS3, so backup the console first. If it doesn’t fix that way, the WiFi chip is bad.
crwdns2915684:0crwdne2915684:0:
open