***Obligatory CRT safety warning: CRT monitors can hold 15-25k volts (15k is the average for desktop class CRTs, 25k for TVs). If you repair it, DO NOT TRUST THE BLEEDER RESISTOR! Discharge it yourself! [post|546157|Refer to this previous Answers post for safety info. You might want to read my answer I’m linking, and the backlinked answer within the answer.]***
Pray it’s the caps - the compact Mac analog boards are known to have issues there. See if you can find a capacitor rebuild kit that ships with Nippon Chemicon or Nichicon caps and recap the analog board and seriously pray that fixes the problem. Try and go for Nippon Chemicon, but Nichicon is also good. ''Do not buy any of the cheap ones like CrapXon - they don’t hold up very long.''
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If it isn’t bad caps, the flyback needs to be replaced. Usually when the flyback fails, the cost to get the bare flyback vs. a properly refurbished analog board (new Nippon Chemicon or Nichicon caps, and checked for other issues) leans towards a new analog board. The bare flyback is quite rare, compared to a refurbished analog board.
+
If it isn’t bad caps, the flyback needs to be replaced. Usually when the flyback fails, the cost to get the bare flyback vs. a properly refurbished analog board (new Nippon Chemicon or Nichicon caps, and checked for other issues) leans towards a new analog board. The bare flyback is quite rare, compared to refurbished analog boards.
***Obligatory CRT safety warning: CRT monitors can hold 15-25k volts (15k is the average for desktop class CRTs, 25k for TVs). If you repair it, DO NOT TRUST THE BLEEDER RESISTOR! Discharge it yourself! [post|546157|Refer to this previous Answers post for safety info. You might want to read my answer I’m linking, and the backlinked answer within the answer.]***
Pray it’s the caps - the compact Mac analog boards are known to have issues there. See if you can find a capacitor rebuild kit that ships with Nippon Chemicon or Nichicon caps and recap the analog board and seriously pray that fixes the problem. Try and go for Nippon Chemicon, but Nichicon is also good. ''Do not buy any of the cheap ones like CrapXon - they don’t hold up very long.''
-
If it isn’t bad caps, the flyback needs to be replaced. Usually when the flyback fails, the cost to get the bare flyback vs. a properly refurbished analog board (new Nippon Chemicon caps, and checked for other issues) leans towards a new analog board. The bare flyback is quite rare, compared to a refurbished analog board.
+
If it isn’t bad caps, the flyback needs to be replaced. Usually when the flyback fails, the cost to get the bare flyback vs. a properly refurbished analog board (new Nippon Chemicon or Nichicon caps, and checked for other issues) leans towards a new analog board. The bare flyback is quite rare, compared to a refurbished analog board.
***Obligatory CRT safety warning: CRT monitors can hold 15-25k volts (15k is the average for desktop class CRTs, 25k for TVs). If you repair it, DO NOT TRUST THE BLEEDER RESISTOR! Discharge it yourself! [post|546157|Refer to this previous Answers post for safety info. You might want to read my answer I’m linking, and the backlinked answer within the answer.]***
-
Pray it’s the caps - the compact Mac analog boards are known to have issues there. See if you can find a capacitor rebuild kit that ships with Nippon Chemicon caps and recap the analog board and seriously pray that fixes the problem.
+
Pray it’s the caps - the compact Mac analog boards are known to have issues there. See if you can find a capacitor rebuild kit that ships with Nippon Chemicon or Nichicon caps and recap the analog board and seriously pray that fixes the problem. Try and go for Nippon Chemicon, but Nichicon is also good. ''Do not buy any of the cheap ones like CrapXon - they don’t hold up very long.''
If it isn’t bad caps, the flyback needs to be replaced. Usually when the flyback fails, the cost to get the bare flyback vs. a properly refurbished analog board (new Nippon Chemicon caps, and checked for other issues) leans towards a new analog board. The bare flyback is quite rare, compared to a refurbished analog board.
***Obligatory CRT safety warning: CRT monitors can hold 15-25k volts (15k is the average for desktop class CRTs, 25k for TVs). If you repair it, DO NOT TRUST THE BLEEDER RESISTOR! Discharge it yourself! [post|546157|Refer to this previous Answers post for safety info. You might want to read my answer I’m linking, and the backlinked answer within the answer.]***
Pray it’s the caps - the compact Mac analog boards are known to have issues there. See if you can find a capacitor rebuild kit that ships with Nippon Chemicon caps and recap the analog board and seriously pray that fixes the problem.
-
If it isn’t bad caps, the flyback needs to be replaced. Usually when the flyback fails, the cost to get the bare flyback vs. a properly refurbished analog board (new Nippon Chemicon caps, and checked for other issues) leans towards a new analog board. The bare flyback is quite rare, compared to a “refurbished” analog board replacement.
+
If it isn’t bad caps, the flyback needs to be replaced. Usually when the flyback fails, the cost to get the bare flyback vs. a properly refurbished analog board (new Nippon Chemicon caps, and checked for other issues) leans towards a new analog board. The bare flyback is quite rare, compared to a refurbished analog board.
***Obligatory CRT safety warning: CRT monitors can hold 15-25k volts (15k is the average for desktop class CRTs, 25k for TVs). If you repair it, DO NOT TRUST THE BLEEDER RESISTOR! Discharge it yourself! [post|546157|Refer to this previous Answers post for safety info. You might want to read my answer I’m linking, and the backlinked answer within the answer.]***
Pray it’s the caps - the compact Mac analog boards are known to have issues there. See if you can find a capacitor rebuild kit that ships with Nippon Chemicon caps and recap the analog board and seriously pray that fixes the problem.
-
If it isn’t bad caps, the flyback needs to be replaced. Usually when the flyback fails, the cost to get the bare flyback vs. a refurbished analog board leans towards a new analog board.
+
If it isn’t bad caps, the flyback needs to be replaced. Usually when the flyback fails, the cost to get the bare flyback vs. a properly refurbished analog board (new Nippon Chemicon caps, and checked for other issues) leans towards a new analog board. The bare flyback is quite rare, compared to a “refurbished” analog board replacement.
***Obligatory CRT safety warning: CRT monitors can hold 15-25k volts (15k is the average for desktop class CRTs, 25k for TVs). If you repair it, DO NOT TRUST THE BLEEDER RESISTOR! Discharge it yourself! [https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/546157/Front+panel+became+very+yellow.+Is+it+possible+to+remove+it#answer546172|Refer to this previous Answers post for safety info.]***
+
***Obligatory CRT safety warning: CRT monitors can hold 15-25k volts (15k is the average for desktop class CRTs, 25k for TVs). If you repair it, DO NOT TRUST THE BLEEDER RESISTOR! Discharge it yourself! [post|546157|Refer to this previous Answers post for safety info. You might want to read my answer I’m linking, and the backlinked answer within the answer.]***
Pray it’s the caps - the compact Mac analog boards are known to have issues there. See if you can find a capacitor rebuild kit that ships with Nippon Chemicon caps and recap the analog board and seriously pray that fixes the problem.
If it isn’t bad caps, the flyback needs to be replaced. Usually when the flyback fails, the cost to get the bare flyback vs. a refurbished analog board leans towards a new analog board.
***Obligatory CRT safety warning: CRT monitors can hold 15-25k volts (15k is the average for desktop class CRTs, 25k for TVs). If you repair it, DO NOT TRUST THE BLEEDER RESISTOR! Discharge it yourself!***
+
***Obligatory CRT safety warning: CRT monitors can hold 15-25k volts (15k is the average for desktop class CRTs, 25k for TVs). If you repair it, DO NOT TRUST THE BLEEDER RESISTOR! Discharge it yourself! [https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/546157/Front+panel+became+very+yellow.+Is+it+possible+to+remove+it#answer546172|Refer to this previous Answers post for safety info.]***
Pray it’s the caps - the compact Mac analog boards are known to have issues there. See if you can find a capacitor rebuild kit that ships with Nippon Chemicon caps and recap the analog board and seriously pray that fixes the problem.
If it isn’t bad caps, the flyback needs to be replaced. Usually when the flyback fails, the cost to get the bare flyback vs. a refurbished analog board leans towards a new analog board.
***Obligatory CRT safety warning: CRT monitors can hold 15-25k volts (15k is the average for desktop class CRTs, 25k for TVs). If you repair it, DO NOT TRUST THE BLEEDER RESISTOR! Discharge it yourself!***
+
Pray it’s the caps - the compact Mac analog boards are known to have issues there. See if you can find a capacitor rebuild kit that ships with Nippon Chemicon caps and recap the analog board and seriously pray that fixes the problem.
If it isn’t bad caps, the flyback needs to be replaced. Usually when the flyback fails, the cost to get the bare flyback vs. a refurbished analog board leans towards a new analog board.
Pray it’s the caps - the compact Mac analog boards are known to have issues there. See if you can find a capacitor rebuild kit that ships with Nippon Chemicon caps and recap the analog board and seriously pray that fixes the problem.
If it isn’t bad caps, the flyback needs to be replaced. Usually when the flyback fails, the cost to get the bare flyback vs. a refurbished analog board leans towards a new analog board.