I can’t find the wiring diagrams for your year model but with the flickering battery light check that the alternator/regulator voltage output is OK.
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With the flickering battery light problem check that the alternator/voltage regulator, voltage output is OK.
When you do this ''ensure that the transmission is in park (AT) or neutral (MT) and that the emergency brake (aka hand brake) is firmly applied.''
Then with the engine running open the bonnet (hood?) and connect a voltmeter across to the vehicle battery terminals. Set the voltmeter to measure 20V DC and connect the red meter lead to the +ve battery terminal and the black meter lead to the -ve battery terminal.
The meter should show approx. 13.8V -14.5V across the battery terminals.
If the meter is hovering below or about 13.8V it means that the battery is not being charged due to insufficient voltage from the alternator or that the voltage regulator which is built into the alternator (I think) is faulty. That is maybe why the battery light in the dash is flickering.
'''Be safety aware''' ''when doing this as the engine is running''.
You could also check that the fan belt has the correct tension and is not slipping on the alternator pulley which may also be causing a faulty output. Do this with the engine off of course ;-)
If you don’t have a DMM (digital multimeter) to test the alternator output most car battery replacement dealers will usually check this for you.
The fuel gauge problem may be due to a faulty sender unit in the fuel tank or a loose connection somewhere between the sender unit and the gauge.
I can’t find the wiring diagrams for your year model but with the flickering battery light check that the alternator/regulator voltage output is OK.
When you do this ''ensure that the transmission is in park (AT) or neutral (MT) and that the emergency brake (aka hand brake) is firmly applied.''
Then with the engine running open the bonnet (hood?) and connect a voltmeter across to the vehicle battery terminals. Set the voltmeter to measure 20V DC and connect the red meter lead to the +ve battery terminal and the black meter lead to the -ve battery terminal.
The meter should show approx. 13.8V -14.5V across the battery terminals.
If the meter is hovering below or about 13.8V it means that the battery is not being charged due to insufficient voltage from the alternator or that the voltage regulator which is built into the alternator (I think) is faulty. That is maybe why the battery light in the dash is flickering.
'''Be safety aware''' ''when doing this as the engine is running''.
You could also check that the fan belt has the correct tension and is not slipping on the alternator pulley which may also be causing a faulty output. Do this with the engine off of course ;-)
+
If you don’t have a DMM (digital multimeter) to test the alternator output most car battery replacement dealers will usually check this for you.
+
The fuel gauge problem may be due to a faulty sender unit in the fuel tank or a loose connection somewhere between the sender unit and the gauge.
Hi,
I can’t find the wiring diagrams for your year model but with the flickering battery light check that the alternator/regulator voltage output is OK.
When you do this ''ensure that the transmission is in park (AT) or neutral (MT) and that the emergency brake (aka hand brake) is firmly applied.''
Then with the engine running open the bonnet (hood?) and connect a voltmeter across to the vehicle battery terminals. Set the voltmeter to measure 20V DC and connect the red meter lead to the +ve battery terminal and the black meter lead to the -ve battery terminal.
The meter should show approx. 13.8V -14.5V across the battery terminals.
If the meter is hovering below or about 13.8V it means that the battery is not being charged due to insufficient voltage from the alternator or that the voltage regulator which is built into the alternator (I think) is faulty. That is maybe why the battery light in the dash is flickering.
'''Be safety aware''' ''when doing this as the engine is running''.
You could also check that the fan belt has the correct tension and is not slipping on the alternator pulley which may also be causing a faulty output. Do this with the engine off of course ;-)
The fuel gauge problem may be due to a faulty sender unit in the fuel tank or a loose connection somewhere between the sender unit and the gauge.