Pull the spark plugs before you start the engine - neglecting this is a one-way ticket to a hydrolocked engine, and potentially a new car. After they’re out, start the engine until the water is out of the engine - this generally doesn’t take very long and clears out with a few full turns. HOPEFULLY you didn’t start it and damage the engine prior, because the issue is water is non-compressible, so it bends the pistons and scores the block, which basically means you cooked your engine and you're replacing it. ***Find the fuel pump relay and pull that to be extra sure it won't try and start things, since you just want to get the water out; not add fuel. It's usually one of the large relays and on Hyundai products is often under the hood fuse box. Some put this in the driver side fuse box.***
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Pull the spark plugs before you start the engine - neglecting this is a one-way ticket to a hydrolocked engine, and potentially a new car. After they’re out, start the engine until the water is out of the engine - this generally doesn’t take very long and clears out with a few full turns. HOPEFULLY you didn’t start it and damage the engine prior, because the issue is water is non-compressible, so it bends the pistons and scores the block, which basically means you cooked your engine and you're replacing it. ***Find the fuel pump relay and pull that to be extra sure it won't try and start things, since you just want to get the water out; not add fuel. It's usually one of the large relays and on Hyundai products is often under the hood fuse box. Some put this in the driver side fuse box, but that often tends to be things like ABS and the radio; not fuel relays.***
Do this with caution (especially if the fluid has never been changed and it has 70k+ miles!) is to consider getting the tranny flushed and replacing the fluid. ***''You need to use the Hyundai specific fluid due to these modern transmissions not being designed for universal fluid like the old school ones from 15+ years ago, especially if it went over 1-2" of flood water.''*** The issue here is neglecting this also tends to lead to expensive (potentially totaling out the car bad) repair bills. ***IF IT HAS NOT BEEN CHANGED, REMOVE IT AND CHECK FOR WATER AND REUSE THE OLD FLUID. The transmission fluid is keeping it going! In fact, it may be better to not touch it in case any filtering you may do removes particles keeping it alive! Most dealers will sell it, but it's also not unheard of for it to be done by the dealer as they fill by capacity and not sell it by the bottle (blame BMW for this). ''If it's in the 100k+ mile range, take the chance of blowing the tranny out; the fluid is keeping it alive.''***
After you get the water out of the piston chambers and verify it’s no longer spitting water all over the engine bay, check the air filter for water - if it’s wet, dry it out and replace the filter - it may not hurt to remove the filter box and other parts to check it over closely if it's bad. Change the filter - it's $5-10 insurance against potentially blowing the engine.
If you do these two things, it’s generally safe to start the car and see if it’s completely dry and there’s no water left to potentially damage the engine. However, if you see anything obvious that needs attention (like wiring harness corrosion) you likely need to address that first before you do any further assessment of the damage. The initial goal is to save the engine, you can assess the rest of your car later. We don’t know which year you own, so there’s no way to point you to a service manual or technical information on what you need to try and do things like remove the spark plugs. If any water got into the chassis, expect extensive repairs as electrical damage tends to be deep and expensive in most cases but hope for the best, and it may total the car out; Hyundi/Kias are notorious depreciation machines, and it isn't hard to do.
Pull the spark plugs before you start the engine - neglecting this is a one-way ticket to a hydrolocked engine, and potentially a new car. After they’re out, start the engine until the water is out of the engine - this generally doesn’t take very long and clears out with a few full turns. HOPEFULLY you didn’t start it and damage the engine prior, because the issue is water is non-compressible, so it bends the pistons and scores the block, which basically means you cooked your engine and you're replacing it.
+
Pull the spark plugs before you start the engine - neglecting this is a one-way ticket to a hydrolocked engine, and potentially a new car. After they’re out, start the engine until the water is out of the engine - this generally doesn’t take very long and clears out with a few full turns. HOPEFULLY you didn’t start it and damage the engine prior, because the issue is water is non-compressible, so it bends the pistons and scores the block, which basically means you cooked your engine and you're replacing it. ***Find the fuel pump relay and pull that to be extra sure it won't try and start things, since you just want to get the water out; not add fuel. It's usually one of the large relays and on Hyundai products is often under the hood fuse box. Some put this in the driver side fuse box.***
Do this with caution (especially if the fluid has never been changed and it has 70k+ miles!) is to consider getting the tranny flushed and replacing the fluid. ***''You need to use the Hyundai specific fluid due to these modern transmissions not being designed for universal fluid like the old school ones from 15+ years ago, especially if it went over 1-2" of flood water.''*** The issue here is neglecting this also tends to lead to expensive (potentially totaling out the car bad) repair bills. ***IF IT HAS NOT BEEN CHANGED, REMOVE IT AND CHECK FOR WATER AND REUSE THE OLD FLUID. The transmission fluid is keeping it going! In fact, it may be better to not touch it in case any filtering you may do removes particles keeping it alive! Most dealers will sell it, but it's also not unheard of for it to be done by the dealer as they fill by capacity and not sell it by the bottle (blame BMW for this). ''If it's in the 100k+ mile range, take the chance of blowing the tranny out; the fluid is keeping it alive.''***
After you get the water out of the piston chambers and verify it’s no longer spitting water all over the engine bay, check the air filter for water - if it’s wet, dry it out and replace the filter - it may not hurt to remove the filter box and other parts to check it over closely if it's bad. Change the filter - it's $5-10 insurance against potentially blowing the engine.
If you do these two things, it’s generally safe to start the car and see if it’s completely dry and there’s no water left to potentially damage the engine. However, if you see anything obvious that needs attention (like wiring harness corrosion) you likely need to address that first before you do any further assessment of the damage. The initial goal is to save the engine, you can assess the rest of your car later. We don’t know which year you own, so there’s no way to point you to a service manual or technical information on what you need to try and do things like remove the spark plugs. If any water got into the chassis, expect extensive repairs as electrical damage tends to be deep and expensive in most cases but hope for the best, and it may total the car out; Hyundi/Kias are notorious depreciation machines, and it isn't hard to do.
Pull the spark plugs before you start the engine - neglecting this is a one-way ticket to a hydrolocked engine, and potentially a new car. After they’re out, start the engine until the water is out of the engine - this generally doesn’t take very long and clears out with a few full turns. HOPEFULLY you didn’t start it and damage the engine prior, because the issue is water is non-compressible, so it bends the pistons and sores the block and ends up trashing the engine.
+
Pull the spark plugs before you start the engine - neglecting this is a one-way ticket to a hydrolocked engine, and potentially a new car. After they’re out, start the engine until the water is out of the engine - this generally doesn’t take very long and clears out with a few full turns. HOPEFULLY you didn’t start it and damage the engine prior, because the issue is water is non-compressible, so it bends the pistons and scores the block, which basically means you cooked your engine and you're replacing it.
Do this with caution (especially if the fluid has never been changed and it has 70k+ miles!) is to consider getting the tranny flushed and replacing the fluid. ***''You need to use the Hyundai specific fluid due to these modern transmissions not being designed for universal fluid like the old school ones from 15+ years ago, especially if it went over 1-2" of flood water.''*** The issue here is neglecting this also tends to lead to expensive (potentially totaling out the car bad) repair bills. ***IF IT HAS NOT BEEN CHANGED, REMOVE IT AND CHECK FOR WATER AND REUSE THE OLD FLUID. The transmission fluid is keeping it going! In fact, it may be better to not touch it in case any filtering you may do removes particles keeping it alive! Most dealers will sell it, but it's also not unheard of for it to be done by the dealer as they fill by capacity and not sell it by the bottle (blame BMW for this). ''If it's in the 100k+ mile range, take the chance of blowing the tranny out; the fluid is keeping it alive.''***
After you get the water out of the piston chambers and verify it’s no longer spitting water all over the engine bay, check the air filter for water - if it’s wet, dry it out and replace the filter - it may not hurt to remove the filter box and other parts to check it over closely if it's bad. Change the filter - it's $5-10 insurance against potentially blowing the engine.
If you do these two things, it’s generally safe to start the car and see if it’s completely dry and there’s no water left to potentially damage the engine. However, if you see anything obvious that needs attention (like wiring harness corrosion) you likely need to address that first before you do any further assessment of the damage. The initial goal is to save the engine, you can assess the rest of your car later. We don’t know which year you own, so there’s no way to point you to a service manual or technical information on what you need to try and do things like remove the spark plugs. If any water got into the chassis, expect extensive repairs as electrical damage tends to be deep and expensive in most cases but hope for the best, and it may total the car out; Hyundi/Kias are notorious depreciation machines, and it isn't hard to do.
Pull the spark plugs before you start the engine - that’s how you hydrolock the engine and potentially total out the entire car. After they’re out, start the engine until the water is out of the engine - this generally doesn’t take very long and clears out with a few full turns. HOPEFULLY you didn’t start it and damage the engine prior, because the problem is the piston rods bend and you end up having to rebuild the engine.
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Pull the spark plugs before you start the engine - neglecting this is a one-way ticket to a hydrolocked engine, and potentially a new car. After they’re out, start the engine until the water is out of the engine - this generally doesn’t take very long and clears out with a few full turns. HOPEFULLY you didn’t start it and damage the engine prior, because the issue is water is non-compressible, so it bends the pistons and sores the block and ends up trashing the engine.
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That said,give changing the tranny fluid a serious look if it’s more then 1-2” of flood water, because it can also do some expensive damage there as well. If it hasn’t ever been changed don’t touch it as that MAY be keeping it alive, but if it’s low mileage (think 70-80k tops), it shouldn’t be relying on dirty tranny fluid to run without slipping. '''''You CANNOT use anything other then the fluid Hyundai specifies for this, as a lot of these modern transmissions use specific fluids.Buy it from the dealer or get the specified fluid elsewhere if it’s “dealer only”. It usually is sold in small bottles, but that isn’t always the case. It’s best to leave it be if you have no maintenance records and it’s high milege (100k+) as that’s typically what keeps them alive.'''''
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Do this with caution (especially if the fluid has never been changed and it has 70k+ miles!) is to consider getting the tranny flushed and replacing the fluid. ***''You need to use the Hyundai specific fluid due to these modern transmissions not being designed for universal fluid like the old school ones from 15+ years ago, especially if it went over 1-2" of flood water.''*** The issue here is neglecting this also tends to lead to expensive (potentially totaling out the car bad) repair bills. ***IF IT HAS NOT BEEN CHANGED, REMOVE IT AND CHECK FOR WATER AND REUSE THE OLD FLUID. The transmission fluid is keeping it going! In fact, it may be better to not touch it in case any filtering you may do removes particles keeping it alive! Most dealers will sell it, but it's also not unheard of for it to be done by the dealer as they fill by capacity and not sell it by the bottle (blame BMW for this). ''If it's in the 100k+ mile range, take the chance of blowing the tranny out; the fluid is keeping it alive.''***
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After you get the water out of the piston chambers and verify it’s no longer spitting water all over the engine bay, check the air filter for water - if it’s wet, dry it out and replace the filter. It may be a good idea to change this anyway,especially if it’s been a while since the last time this was done.
+
After you get the water out of the piston chambers and verify it’s no longer spitting water all over the engine bay, check the air filter for water - if it’s wet, dry it out and replace the filter - it may not hurt to remove the filter box and other parts to check it over closely if it's bad. Change the filter - it's $5-10 insurance against potentially blowing the engine.
-
If you do these two things, it’s generally safe to start the car and see if it’s completely dry and there’s no water left to potentially damage the engine. However, if you see anything obvious that needs attention you likely need to address that first before you do any further assessment of the damage. The goal is to avoid trashing the engine right now so you have a chance to fix it. We don’t know which year you own, so there’s no way to point you to a service manual or technical information on what you need to try and do things like remove the spark plugs. If any water got into the chassis, expect extensive repairs as electrical damage tends to be deep and expensive in most cases but hope for the best.
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If you do these two things, it’s generally safe to start the car and see if it’s completely dry and there’s no water left to potentially damage the engine. However, if you see anything obvious that needs attention (like wiring harness corrosion) you likely need to address that first before you do any further assessment of the damage. The initial goal is to save the engine, you can assess the rest of your car later. We don’t know which year you own, so there’s no way to point you to a service manual or technical information on what you need to try and do things like remove the spark plugs. If any water got into the chassis, expect extensive repairs as electrical damage tends to be deep and expensive in most cases but hope for the best, and it may total the car out; Hyundi/Kias are notorious depreciation machines, and it isn't hard to do.
Pull the spark plugs before you start the engine - that’s how you hydrolock the engine and potentially total out the entire car by not avoiding engine failure. After they’re out, start the engine until the water is out of the engine - this generally doesn’t take very long. HOPEFULLY you didn’t start it and damage the engine.
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Pull the spark plugs before you start the engine - that’s how you hydrolock the engine and potentially total out the entire car. After they’re out, start the engine until the water is out of the engine - this generally doesn’t take very long and clears out with a few full turns. HOPEFULLY you didn’t start it and damage the engine prior, because the problem is the piston rods bend and you end up having to rebuild the engine.
That said, give changing the tranny fluid a serious look if it’s more then 1-2” of flood water, because it can also do some expensive damage there as well. If it hasn’t ever been changed don’t touch it as that MAY be keeping it alive, but if it’s low mileage (think 70-80k tops), it shouldn’t be relying on dirty tranny fluid to run without slipping. '''''You CANNOT use anything other then the fluid Hyundai specifies for this, as a lot of these modern transmissions use specific fluids. Buy it from the dealer or get the specified fluid elsewhere if it’s “dealer only”. It usually is sold in small bottles, but that isn’t always the case. It’s best to leave it be if you have no maintenance records and it’s high milege (100k+) as that’s typically what keeps them alive.'''''
After you get the water out of the piston chambers and verify it’s no longer spitting water all over the engine bay, check the air filter for water - if it’s wet, dry it out and replace the filter. It may be a good idea to change this anyway, especially if it’s been a while since the last time this was done.
If you do these two things, it’s generally safe to start the car and see if it’s completely dry and there’s no water left to potentially damage the engine. However, if you see anything obvious that needs attention you likely need to address that first before you do any further assessment of the damage. The goal is to avoid trashing the engine right now so you have a chance to fix it. We don’t know which year you own, so there’s no way to point you to a service manual or technical information on what you need to try and do things like remove the spark plugs. If any water got into the chassis, expect extensive repairs as electrical damage tends to be deep and expensive in most cases but hope for the best.
Pull the spark plugs before you start the engine - that’s how you hydrolock the engine and potentially total out the entire car by not avoiding engine failure. After they’re out, start the engine until the water is out of the engine - this generally doesn’t take very long. HOPEFULLY you didn’t start it and damage the engine.
That said, give changing the tranny fluid a serious look if it’s more then 1-2” of flood water, because it can also do some expensive damage there as well. If it hasn’t ever been changed don’t touch it as that MAY be keeping it alive, but if it’s low mileage (think 70-80k tops), it shouldn’t be relying on dirty tranny fluid to run without slipping. '''''You CANNOT use anything other then the fluid Hyundai specifies for this, as a lot of these modern transmissions use specific fluids. Buy it from the dealer or get the specified fluid elsewhere if it’s “dealer only”. It usually is sold in small bottles, but that isn’t always the case. It’s best to leave it be if you have no maintenance records and it’s high milege (100k+) as that’s typically what keeps them alive.'''''
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The problem with Hyundai engines is a lot of them are interference based, so you run into significantly more risk of blowing the engine then you do with a non-interference type.
After you get the water out of the piston chambers and verify it’s no longer spitting water all over the engine bay, check the air filter for water - if it’s wet, dry it out and replace the filter. It may be a good idea to change this anyway, especially if it’s been a while since the last time this was done.
If you do these two things, it’s generally safe to start the car and see if it’s completely dry and there’s no water left to potentially damage the engine. However, if you see anything obvious that needs attention you likely need to address that first before you do any further assessment of the damage. The goal is to avoid trashing the engine right now so you have a chance to fix it. We don’t know which year you own, so there’s no way to point you to a service manual or technical information on what you need to try and do things like remove the spark plugs. If any water got into the chassis, expect extensive repairs as electrical damage tends to be deep and expensive in most cases but hope for the best.
Pull the spark plugs before you start the engine - that’s how you hydrolock the engine and potentially total out the entire car by not avoiding engine failure. After they’re out, start the engine until the water is out of the engine - this generally doesn’t take very long. HOPEFULLY you didn’t start it and damage the engine.
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That said, give changing the tranny fluid a serious look if it’s more then 1-2” of flood water, because it can also do some expensive damage there as well. If it hasn’t ever been changed don’t touch it as that MAY be keeping it alive, but if it’s low mileage (think 70-80k tops), it shouldn’t be relying on dirty tranny fluid to run without slipping. '''''You CANNOT use anything other then the fluid Hyundai specifies for this, as a lot of these modern transmissions use specific fluids. Buy it from the dealer or get the specified fluid elsewhere if it’s “dealer only”. It usually is sold in small bottles, but that isn’t always the case.'''''
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That said, give changing the tranny fluid a serious look if it’s more then 1-2” of flood water, because it can also do some expensive damage there as well. If it hasn’t ever been changed don’t touch it as that MAY be keeping it alive, but if it’s low mileage (think 70-80k tops), it shouldn’t be relying on dirty tranny fluid to run without slipping. '''''You CANNOT use anything other then the fluid Hyundai specifies for this, as a lot of these modern transmissions use specific fluids. Buy it from the dealer or get the specified fluid elsewhere if it’s “dealer only”. It usually is sold in small bottles, but that isn’t always the case. It’s best to leave it be if you have no maintenance records and it’s high milege (100k+) as that’s typically what keeps them alive.'''''
The problem with Hyundai engines is a lot of them are interference based, so you run into significantly more risk of blowing the engine then you do with a non-interference type.
After you get the water out of the piston chambers and verify it’s no longer spitting water all over the engine bay, check the air filter for water - if it’s wet, dry it out and replace the filter. It may be a good idea to change this anyway, especially if it’s been a while since the last time this was done.
If you do these two things, it’s generally safe to start the car and see if it’s completely dry and there’s no water left to potentially damage the engine. However, if you see anything obvious that needs attention you likely need to address that first before you do any further assessment of the damage. The goal is to avoid trashing the engine right now so you have a chance to fix it. We don’t know which year you own, so there’s no way to point you to a service manual or technical information on what you need to try and do things like remove the spark plugs. If any water got into the chassis, expect extensive repairs as electrical damage tends to be deep and expensive in most cases but hope for the best.
Pull the spark plugs before you start the engine - that’s how you hydrolock the engine and potentially total out the entire car by not avoiding engine failure. After they’re out, start the engine until the water is out of the engine - this generally doesn’t take very long. HOPEFULLY you didn’t start it and damage the engine. That said, give changing the tranny fluid a serious look if it’s more then 1-2” of flood water, because it can also do some expensive damage there as well. If it hasn’t ever been changed don’t touch it as that MAY be keeping it alive, but if it’s low mileage (think 70-80k tops), it shouldn’t be relying on dirty tranny fluid to run without slipping. '''''You CANNOT use anything other then the fluid Hyundai specifies for this, as a lot of these modern transmissions use specific fluids. Buy it from the dealer or get the specified fluid elsewhere if it’s “dealer only”. It usually is sold in small bottles, but that isn’t always the case.'''''
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Pull the spark plugs before you start the engine - that’s how you hydrolock the engine and potentially total out the entire car by not avoiding engine failure. After they’re out, start the engine until the water is out of the engine - this generally doesn’t take very long. HOPEFULLY you didn’t start it and damage the engine.
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That said, give changing the tranny fluid a serious look if it’s more then 1-2” of flood water, because it can also do some expensive damage there as well. If it hasn’t ever been changed don’t touch it as that MAY be keeping it alive, but if it’s low mileage (think 70-80k tops), it shouldn’t be relying on dirty tranny fluid to run without slipping. '''''You CANNOT use anything other then the fluid Hyundai specifies for this, as a lot of these modern transmissions use specific fluids. Buy it from the dealer or get the specified fluid elsewhere if it’s “dealer only”. It usually is sold in small bottles, but that isn’t always the case.'''''
The problem with Hyundai engines is a lot of them are interference based, so you run into significantly more risk of blowing the engine then you do with a non-interference type.
After you get the water out of the piston chambers and verify it’s no longer spitting water all over the engine bay, check the air filter for water - if it’s wet, dry it out and replace the filter. It may be a good idea to change this anyway, especially if it’s been a while since the last time this was done.
If you do these two things, it’s generally safe to start the car and see if it’s completely dry and there’s no water left to potentially damage the engine. However, if you see anything obvious that needs attention you likely need to address that first before you do any further assessment of the damage. The goal is to avoid trashing the engine right now so you have a chance to fix it. We don’t know which year you own, so there’s no way to point you to a service manual or technical information on what you need to try and do things like remove the spark plugs. If any water got into the chassis, expect extensive repairs as electrical damage tends to be deep and expensive in most cases but hope for the best.
Pull the spark plugs before you start the engine - that’s how you hydrolock the engine and potentially total out the entire car by not avoiding engine failure. After they’re out, start the engine until the water is out of the engine - this generally doesn’t take very long. HOPEFULLY you didn’t start it and damage the engine. That said, give changing the tranny fluid a serious look if it’s more then 1-2” of flood water, because it can also do some expensive damage there as well. If it hasn’t ever been changed don’t touch it as that MAY be keeping it alive, but if it’s low mileage (think 70-80k tops), it shouldn’t be relying on dirty tranny fluid to run without slipping. '''''You CANNOT use anything other then the fluid Hyundai specifies for this, as a lot of these modern transmissions use specific fluids.'''''
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Pull the spark plugs before you start the engine - that’s how you hydrolock the engine and potentially total out the entire car by not avoiding engine failure. After they’re out, start the engine until the water is out of the engine - this generally doesn’t take very long. HOPEFULLY you didn’t start it and damage the engine. That said, give changing the tranny fluid a serious look if it’s more then 1-2” of flood water, because it can also do some expensive damage there as well. If it hasn’t ever been changed don’t touch it as that MAY be keeping it alive, but if it’s low mileage (think 70-80k tops), it shouldn’t be relying on dirty tranny fluid to run without slipping. '''''You CANNOT use anything other then the fluid Hyundai specifies for this, as a lot of these modern transmissions use specific fluids. Buy it from the dealer or get the specified fluid elsewhere if it’s “dealer only”. It usually is sold in small bottles, but that isn’t always the case.'''''
The problem with Hyundai engines is a lot of them are interference based, so you run into significantly more risk of blowing the engine then you do with a non-interference type.
After you get the water out of the piston chambers and verify it’s no longer spitting water all over the engine bay, check the air filter for water - if it’s wet, dry it out and replace the filter. It may be a good idea to change this anyway, especially if it’s been a while since the last time this was done.
If you do these two things, it’s generally safe to start the car and see if it’s completely dry and there’s no water left to potentially damage the engine. However, if you see anything obvious that needs attention you likely need to address that first before you do any further assessment of the damage. The goal is to avoid trashing the engine right now so you have a chance to fix it. We don’t know which year you own, so there’s no way to point you to a service manual or technical information on what you need to try and do things like remove the spark plugs. If any water got into the chassis, expect extensive repairs as electrical damage tends to be deep and expensive in most cases but hope for the best.
Pull the spark plugs before you start the engine - that’s how you hydrolock the engine and potentially total out the entire car by not avoiding engine failure. After they’re out, start the engine until the water is out of the engine - this generally doesn’t take very long. HOPEFULLY you didn’t start it and damage the engine. That said, give changing the tranny fluid a serious look if it’s more then 1-2” of flood water, because it can also do some expensive damage there as well. If it hasn’t ever been changed don’t touch it as that MAY be keeping it alive, but if it’s low mileage (think 70-80k tops), it shouldn’t be relying on dirty tranny fluid to run without slipping.
+
Pull the spark plugs before you start the engine - that’s how you hydrolock the engine and potentially total out the entire car by not avoiding engine failure. After they’re out, start the engine until the water is out of the engine - this generally doesn’t take very long. HOPEFULLY you didn’t start it and damage the engine. That said, give changing the tranny fluid a serious look if it’s more then 1-2” of flood water, because it can also do some expensive damage there as well. If it hasn’t ever been changed don’t touch it as that MAY be keeping it alive, but if it’s low mileage (think 70-80k tops), it shouldn’t be relying on dirty tranny fluid to run without slipping. '''''You CANNOT use anything other then the fluid Hyundai specifies for this, as a lot of these modern transmissions use specific fluids.'''''
The problem with Hyundai engines is a lot of them are interference based, so you run into significantly more risk of blowing the engine then you do with a non-interference type.
After you get the water out of the piston chambers and verify it’s no longer spitting water all over the engine bay, check the air filter for water - if it’s wet, dry it out and replace the filter. It may be a good idea to change this anyway, especially if it’s been a while since the last time this was done.
If you do these two things, it’s generally safe to start the car and see if it’s completely dry and there’s no water left to potentially damage the engine. However, if you see anything obvious that needs attention you likely need to address that first before you do any further assessment of the damage. The goal is to avoid trashing the engine right now so you have a chance to fix it. We don’t know which year you own, so there’s no way to point you to a service manual or technical information on what you need to try and do things like remove the spark plugs. If any water got into the chassis, expect extensive repairs as electrical damage tends to be deep and expensive in most cases but hope for the best.
Pull the spark plugs before you start the engine - that’s how you hydrolock the engine and potentially total out the entire car by not avoiding engine failure. After they’re out, start the engine until the water is out of the engine - this generally doesn’t take very long. HOPEFULLY you didn’t start it and damage the engine. The chances of total failure are even worse on the interference Hyundai platforms and a lot of their platforms use interference type engines, which leaves a lot of room to trash the entire engine since the tolerances between interference and non-interference are very different. Yes, you can still damage a non-interference engine with water but it’s harder then an interference type.
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Pull the spark plugs before you start the engine - that’s how you hydrolock the engine and potentially total out the entire car by not avoiding engine failure. After they’re out, start the engine until the water is out of the engine - this generally doesn’t take very long. HOPEFULLY you didn’t start it and damage the engine. That said, give changing the tranny fluid a serious look if it’s more then 1-2” of flood water, because it can also do some expensive damage there as well. If it hasn’t ever been changed don’t touch it as that MAY be keeping it alive, but if it’s low mileage (think 70-80k tops), it shouldn’t be relying on dirty tranny fluid to run without slipping.
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+
The problem with Hyundai engines is a lot of them are interference based, so you run into significantly more risk of blowing the engine then you do with a non-interference type.
After you get the water out of the piston chambers and verify it’s no longer spitting water all over the engine bay, check the air filter for water - if it’s wet, dry it out and replace the filter. It may be a good idea to change this anyway, especially if it’s been a while since the last time this was done.
If you do these two things, it’s generally safe to start the car and see if it’s completely dry and there’s no water left to potentially damage the engine. However, if you see anything obvious that needs attention you likely need to address that first before you do any further assessment of the damage. The goal is to avoid trashing the engine right now so you have a chance to fix it. We don’t know which year you own, so there’s no way to point you to a service manual or technical information on what you need to try and do things like remove the spark plugs. If any water got into the chassis, expect extensive repairs as electrical damage tends to be deep and expensive in most cases but hope for the best.
Pull the spark plugs before you start the engine - that’s how you hydrolock the engine and potentially total out the entire car by not avoiding engine failure. After they’re out, start the engine until the water is out of the engine - this generally doesn’t take very long. HOPEFULLY you didn’t start it and damage the engine. The chances of total failure are even worse on the interference Hyundai platforms and a lot of their platforms use interference type engines, which leaves a lot of room to trash the entire engine since the tolerances between interference and non-interference are very different. Yes, you can still damage a non-interference engine with water but it’s harder then an interference type.
After you get the water out of the piston chambers and verify it’s no longer spitting water all over the engine bay, check the air filter for water - if it’s wet, dry it out and replace the filter. It may be a good idea to change this anyway, especially if it’s been a while since the last time this was done.
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If you do these two things, it’s generally safe to start the car and see if it’s completely dry and there’s no water left to potentially damage the engine. However, if you see anything obvious that needs attention you likely need to address that first before you do any further assessment of the damage. The goal is to avoid trashing the engine right now so you have a chance to fix it. We don’t know which year you own, so there’s no way to point you to a service manual or technical information on what you need to try and do things like remove the spark plugs. If any water got into the chassis, expect extensive repairs as electrical damage tends to be deep and expensive in most cases.
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If you do these two things, it’s generally safe to start the car and see if it’s completely dry and there’s no water left to potentially damage the engine. However, if you see anything obvious that needs attention you likely need to address that first before you do any further assessment of the damage. The goal is to avoid trashing the engine right now so you have a chance to fix it. We don’t know which year you own, so there’s no way to point you to a service manual or technical information on what you need to try and do things like remove the spark plugs. If any water got into the chassis, expect extensive repairs as electrical damage tends to be deep and expensive in most cases but hope for the best.
Pull the spark plugs before you start the engine - that’s how you hydrolock the engine and potentially total out the entire car by not avoiding engine failure. After they’re out, start the engine until the water is out of the engine - this generally doesn’t take very long. HOPEFULLY you didn’t start it and damage the engine. The chances of total failure are even worse on the interference Hyundai platforms and a lot of their platforms use interference type engines, which leaves a lot of room to trash the entire engine since the tolerances between interference and non-interference are very different. Yes, you can still damage a non-interference engine with water but it’s harder then an interference type.
After you get the water out of the piston chambers and verify it’s no longer spitting water all over the engine bay, check the air filter for water - if it’s wet, dry it out and replace the filter. It may be a good idea to change this anyway, especially if it’s been a while since the last time this was done.
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If you do these two things, it’s generally safe to start the car and see if it’s completely dry and there’s no water left to potentially damage the engine. However, if you see anything super obvious that needs attention you likely need to address that first before you do any further assessment of the damage. The goal is to avoid trashing the engine, since these parts tend to be the most expensive and are the most susceptible to totaling out a older car mechanically. We don’t know which year you own, so there’s no way to point you to a service manual or technical information on what you need to try and do things like remove the spark plugs.
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If you do these two things, it’s generally safe to start the car and see if it’s completely dry and there’s no water left to potentially damage the engine. However, if you see anything obvious that needs attention you likely need to address that first before you do any further assessment of the damage. The goal is to avoid trashing the engine right now so you have a chance to fix it. We don’t know which year you own, so there’s no way to point you to a service manual or technical information on what you need to try and do things like remove the spark plugs. If any water got into the chassis, expect extensive repairs as electrical damage tends to be deep and expensive in most cases.
Pull the spark plugs before you start the engine - that’s how you hydrolock the engine and potentially total out the entire car by not avoiding engine failure. After they’re out, start the engine until the water is out of the engine - this generally doesn’t take very long. HOPEFULLY you didn’t start it and damage the engine. The chances of total failure are even worse on the interference Hyundai platforms and a lot of their platforms use interference type engines, which leaves a lot of room to trash the entire engine since the tolerances between interference and non-interference are very different.
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Pull the spark plugs before you start the engine - that’s how you hydrolock the engine and potentially total out the entire car by not avoiding engine failure. After they’re out, start the engine until the water is out of the engine - this generally doesn’t take very long. HOPEFULLY you didn’t start it and damage the engine. The chances of total failure are even worse on the interference Hyundai platforms and a lot of their platforms use interference type engines, which leaves a lot of room to trash the entire engine since the tolerances between interference and non-interference are very different. Yes, you can still damage a non-interference engine with water but it’s harder then an interference type.
After you get the water out of the piston chambers and verify it’s no longer spitting water all over the engine bay, check the air filter for water - if it’s wet, dry it out and replace the filter. It may be a good idea to change this anyway, especially if it’s been a while since the last time this was done.
If you do these two things, it’s generally safe to start the car and see if it’s completely dry and there’s no water left to potentially damage the engine. However, if you see anything super obvious that needs attention you likely need to address that first before you do any further assessment of the damage. The goal is to avoid trashing the engine, since these parts tend to be the most expensive and are the most susceptible to totaling out a older car mechanically. We don’t know which year you own, so there’s no way to point you to a service manual or technical information on what you need to try and do things like remove the spark plugs.
Pull the spark plugs before you start the engine - that’s how you hydrolock the engine and potentially total out the entire car by not avoiding engine failure. After they’re out, start the engine until the water is out of the engine - this generally doesn’t take very long. HOPEFULLY you didn’t start it and damage the engine. The chances of total ailure are even worse on the interference Hyundai platforms and a lot of their platforms use interference type engines, which leaves a lot of room to trash the entire engine since the tolerances between interference and non-interference are very different.
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Pull the spark plugs before you start the engine - that’s how you hydrolock the engine and potentially total out the entire car by not avoiding engine failure. After they’re out, start the engine until the water is out of the engine - this generally doesn’t take very long. HOPEFULLY you didn’t start it and damage the engine. The chances of total failure are even worse on the interference Hyundai platforms and a lot of their platforms use interference type engines, which leaves a lot of room to trash the entire engine since the tolerances between interference and non-interference are very different.
After you get the water out of the piston chambers and verify it’s no longer spitting water all over the engine bay, check the air filter for water - if it’s wet, dry it out and replace the filter. It may be a good idea to change this anyway, especially if it’s been a while since the last time this was done.
If you do these two things, it’s generally safe to start the car and see if it’s completely dry and there’s no water left to potentially damage the engine. However, if you see anything super obvious that needs attention you likely need to address that first before you do any further assessment of the damage. The goal is to avoid trashing the engine, since these parts tend to be the most expensive and are the most susceptible to totaling out a older car mechanically. We don’t know which year you own, so there’s no way to point you to a service manual or technical information on what you need to try and do things like remove the spark plugs.
Pull the spark plugs before you start the engine - that’s how you hydrolock the engine and potentially total out the entire car by not avoiding engine failure. After they’re out, start the engine until the water is out of the engine - this generally doesn’t take very long. HOPEFULLY you didn’t start it and damage the engine.
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Pull the spark plugs before you start the engine - that’s how you hydrolock the engine and potentially total out the entire car by not avoiding engine failure. After they’re out, start the engine until the water is out of the engine - this generally doesn’t take very long. HOPEFULLY you didn’t start it and damage the engine. The chances of total ailure are even worse on the interference Hyundai platforms and a lot of their platforms use interference type engines, which leaves a lot of room to trash the entire engine since the tolerances between interference and non-interference are very different.
After you get the water out of the piston chambers and verify it’s no longer spitting water all over the engine bay, check the air filter for water - if it’s wet, dry it out and replace the filter. It may be a good idea to change this anyway, especially if it’s been a while since the last time this was done.
If you do these two things, it’s generally safe to start the car and see if it’s completely dry and there’s no water left to potentially damage the engine. However, if you see anything super obvious that needs attention you likely need to address that first before you do any further assessment of the damage. The goal is to avoid trashing the engine, since these parts tend to be the most expensive and are the most susceptible to totaling out a older car mechanically. We don’t know which year you own, so there’s no way to point you to a service manual or technical information on what you need to try and do things like remove the spark plugs.
Pull the spark plugs before you start the engine - that’s how you hydrolock the engine and potentially total out the entire car by not avoiding engine failure. After they’re out, start the engine until the water is out of the engine - this generally doesn’t take very long. HOPEFULLY you didn’t start it and damage the engine.
After you get the water out of the piston chambers and verify it’s no longer spitting water all over the engine bay, check the air filter for water - if it’s wet, dry it out and replace the filter. It may be a good idea to change this anyway, especially if it’s been a while since the last time this was done.
-
If you do these two things, it’s generally safe to start the car and see if it’s completely dry and there’s no water left to potentially damage the engine. However, if you see anything super obvious that needs attention you likely need to address that first before you do any further assessment of the damage. The goal is to avoid trashing the engine, since these parts tend to be the most expensive and are the most susceptible to totaling out a older car mechanically.
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If you do these two things, it’s generally safe to start the car and see if it’s completely dry and there’s no water left to potentially damage the engine. However, if you see anything super obvious that needs attention you likely need to address that first before you do any further assessment of the damage. The goal is to avoid trashing the engine, since these parts tend to be the most expensive and are the most susceptible to totaling out a older car mechanically. We don’t know which year you own, so there’s no way to point you to a service manual or technical information on what you need to try and do things like remove the spark plugs.
Pull the spark plugs before you start the engine - that’s how you hydrolock the engine and potentially total out the entire car by not avoiding engine failure. After they’re out, start the engine until the water is out of the engine - this generally doesn’t take very long. HOPEFULLY you didn’t start it and damage the engine.
After you get the water out of the piston chambers and verify it’s no longer spitting water all over the engine bay, check the air filter for water - if it’s wet, dry it out and replace the filter. It may be a good idea to change this anyway, especially if it’s been a while since the last time this was done.
If you do these two things, it’s generally safe to start the car and see if it’s completely dry and there’s no water left to potentially damage the engine. However, if you see anything super obvious that needs attention you likely need to address that first before you do any further assessment of the damage. The goal is to avoid trashing the engine, since these parts tend to be the most expensive and are the most susceptible to totaling out a older car mechanically.