If you are okay with 3.5” floppies and can find the appropriate disks (400/800k for Unidisk and 720k/1.44MB for the MFM SuperDrive. This tends to be the better option since t’s backwards compatible with 400/800k disks, and formatting. However, while you can find the drives the 720/800k floppies tend to be less common. You can read more about the drives you can get [link|http://wiki.apple2.org/index.php?title=A2_Floppy_Controllers#Apple_II_UniDisk_3.5_Controller_.28aka_the_.27Liron.27_card.29|here|new_window=true] as well. It will generally cost more to do it this way, so keep that in mind if you decide to get this drive setup for the machine.
+
If you are okay with 3.5” floppies and can find the appropriate disks (400/800k for Unidisk and 720k/1.44MB for the MFM SuperDrive. This tends to be the better option since t’s backwards compatible with 400/800k disks, and formatting. However, while you can find the drives the 720/800k floppies tend to be less common. You can read more about the drives you can get [link|http://wiki.apple2.org/index.php?title=A2_Floppy_Controllers#Apple_II_UniDisk_3.5_Controller_.28aka_the_.27Liron.27_card.29|here] as well. It will generally cost more to do it this way, so keep that in mind if you decide to get this drive setup for the machine.
Part of the reason 3.5” drives (and controllers) from this period are harder to find is this was the era of [link|https://diskpreservation.com/dp.php?pg=protection|on-disk copy protection]. The 3.5” drives never coped with it well, compared to 5 1/4" and was subsequently discouraged. Some developers ignored the fact 3.5" and on-disk copy protection DO NOT MIX well (usually companies like Autodesk and others, especially gov't contractors) and these can/do cause issues depending on how horribly aggressive the implementation is. If it's a one time check it may be fine, but that's the one and only exception to the rule with 3.5" on-disk. Not saying you can't go 3.5", but keep in mind overly protected on-disk copy protection can cause issues. ***''Yes, it was nothing more than annoying and it does absolutely nothing; 1:1 disk copy programs which "blindly" copy these disks will bypass 90%+ of this nonsense (you need to mirror the "bad sectors" if it's based on a sector check) IF you need to backup these programs, unless you can maintain 2 concurrent working copies. "Nibbler" copiers work best as it does it as it sees the disk.''***[br]
***''For more advanced methods, cracks are needed (either OG cracking group work, or modern archival group cracks work). Anything done recent-ish prior to upload is cracked by archival groups.''***[br]
***''The reason I mention this is thanks to cracking groups it can **MOSTLY** be written off, but be leery of originals with intact copy protection. With how well the Apple II accommodates this junk (being predominately 5 1/4"), a lot of SW has it :(.''***
-
A clone of the 3.5” controller card can be [link|https://www.reactivemicro.com/product/apple-ii-3-5-drive-controller-card/|found here]. If you want an original Apple 3.5” card, expect to pay a lot of money to get one.
+
A clone of the 3.5” controller card can be [link|https://www.reactivemicro.com/product/apple-ii-3-5-drive-controller-card/|found here]. If you want an original Apple 3.5” card, expect to pay a lot more for it.
If you are okay with 3.5” floppies and can find the appropriate disks (400/800k for Unidisk and 720k or 1.44MB for the SuperDrive if you use MFM;it’s backwards compatible with the 400/800k disks and formatting as well) in a large quantity that all work, you can always get the 3.5” Superdrive or even the original 3.5” drive. You can read more about the drives you can get [link|http://wiki.apple2.org/index.php?title=A2_Floppy_Controllers#Apple_II_UniDisk_3.5_Controller_.28aka_the_.27Liron.27_card.29|here|new_window=true] as well. It will generally cost more to do it this way, so keep that in mind if you decide to get this drive setup for the machine.
+
If you are okay with 3.5” floppies and can find the appropriate disks (400/800k for Unidisk and 720k/1.44MB for the MFM SuperDrive. This tends to be the better option since t’s backwards compatible with 400/800k disks, and formatting. However, while you can find the drives the 720/800k floppies tend to be less common. You can read more about the drives you can get [link|http://wiki.apple2.org/index.php?title=A2_Floppy_Controllers#Apple_II_UniDisk_3.5_Controller_.28aka_the_.27Liron.27_card.29|here|new_window=true] as well. It will generally cost more to do it this way, so keep that in mind if you decide to get this drive setup for the machine.
-
Part of the reason 3.5” drives (and controllers) from this period are harder to find is this was the era of [link|https://diskpreservation.com/dp.php?pg=protection|on-disk copy protection|new_window=true]. The 3.5” drives never coped with it well, compared to 5 1/4" and was subsequently discouraged. Some developers ignored the fact 3.5" and on-disk copy protection DO NOT MIX well (usually companies like Autodesk and others, especially gov't contractors) and these can/do cause issues depending on how horribly aggressive the implementation is. If it's a one time check it may be fine, but that's the one and only exception to the rule with 3.5" on-disk. Not saying you can't go 3.5", but keep in mind overly protected on-disk copy protection can cause issues. ***''Yes, it was nothing more than annoying and it does absolutely nothing; 1:1 disk copy programs which "blindly" copy these disks will bypass 90%+ of this nonsense (you need to mirror the "bad sectors" if it's based on a sector check) IF you need to backup these programs, unless you can maintain 2 concurrent working copies. "Nibbler" copiers work best as it does it as it sees the disk.''***[br]
+
Part of the reason 3.5” drives (and controllers) from this period are harder to find is this was the era of [link|https://diskpreservation.com/dp.php?pg=protection|on-disk copy protection]. The 3.5” drives never coped with it well, compared to 5 1/4" and was subsequently discouraged. Some developers ignored the fact 3.5" and on-disk copy protection DO NOT MIX well (usually companies like Autodesk and others, especially gov't contractors) and these can/do cause issues depending on how horribly aggressive the implementation is. If it's a one time check it may be fine, but that's the one and only exception to the rule with 3.5" on-disk. Not saying you can't go 3.5", but keep in mind overly protected on-disk copy protection can cause issues. ***''Yes, it was nothing more than annoying and it does absolutely nothing; 1:1 disk copy programs which "blindly" copy these disks will bypass 90%+ of this nonsense (you need to mirror the "bad sectors" if it's based on a sector check) IF you need to backup these programs, unless you can maintain 2 concurrent working copies. "Nibbler" copiers work best as it does it as it sees the disk.''***[br]
***''For more advanced methods, cracks are needed (either OG cracking group work, or modern archival group cracks work). Anything done recent-ish prior to upload is cracked by archival groups.''***[br]
***''The reason I mention this is thanks to cracking groups it can **MOSTLY** be written off, but be leery of originals with intact copy protection. With how well the Apple II accommodates this junk (being predominately 5 1/4"), a lot of SW has it :(.''***
-
A clone of the 3.5” controller card can be [link|https://www.reactivemicro.com/product/apple-ii-3-5-drive-controller-card/|found here|new_window=true]. If you want an original Apple 3.5” card, expect to pay a lot of money to get one.
+
A clone of the 3.5” controller card can be [link|https://www.reactivemicro.com/product/apple-ii-3-5-drive-controller-card/|found here]. If you want an original Apple 3.5” card, expect to pay a lot of money to get one.
If you are okay with 3.5” floppies and can find the appropriate disks (400/800k for Unidisk and 720k or 1.44MB for the SuperDrive if you use MFM; it’s backwards compatible with the 400/800k disks and formatting as well) in a large quantity that all work, you can always get the 3.5” Superdrive or even the original 3.5” drive. You can read more about the drives you can get [link|http://wiki.apple2.org/index.php?title=A2_Floppy_Controllers#Apple_II_UniDisk_3.5_Controller_.28aka_the_.27Liron.27_card.29|here] as well. It will generally cost more to do it this way, so keep that in mind if you decide to get this drive setup for the machine.
+
If you are okay with 3.5” floppies and can find the appropriate disks (400/800k for Unidisk and 720k or 1.44MB for the SuperDrive if you use MFM; it’s backwards compatible with the 400/800k disks and formatting as well) in a large quantity that all work, you can always get the 3.5” Superdrive or even the original 3.5” drive. You can read more about the drives you can get [link|http://wiki.apple2.org/index.php?title=A2_Floppy_Controllers#Apple_II_UniDisk_3.5_Controller_.28aka_the_.27Liron.27_card.29|here|new_window=true] as well. It will generally cost more to do it this way, so keep that in mind if you decide to get this drive setup for the machine.
-
Part of the reason 3.5” drives (and controllers) from this period are harder to find is this was the era of [link|https://diskpreservation.com/dp.php?pg=protection|on-disk copy protection]. The 3.5” drives never coped with it well, compared to 5 1/4" and was subsequently discouraged. Some developers ignored the fact 3.5" and on-disk copy protection DO NOT MIX well (usually companies like Autodesk and others, especially gov't contractors) and these can/do cause issues depending on how horribly aggressive the implementation is. If it's a one time check it may be fine, but that's the one and only exception to the rule with 3.5" on-disk. Not saying you can't go 3.5", but keep in mind overly protected on-disk copy protection can cause issues. ***''Yes, it was nothing more than annoying and it does absolutely nothing; 1:1 disk copy programs which "blindly" copy these disks will bypass 90%+ of this nonsense (you need to mirror the "bad sectors" if it's based on a sector check) IF you need to backup these programs, unless you can maintain 2 concurrent working copies.''***[br]
+
Part of the reason 3.5” drives (and controllers) from this period are harder to find is this was the era of [link|https://diskpreservation.com/dp.php?pg=protection|on-disk copy protection|new_window=true]. The 3.5” drives never coped with it well, compared to 5 1/4" and was subsequently discouraged. Some developers ignored the fact 3.5" and on-disk copy protection DO NOT MIX well (usually companies like Autodesk and others, especially gov't contractors) and these can/do cause issues depending on how horribly aggressive the implementation is. If it's a one time check it may be fine, but that's the one and only exception to the rule with 3.5" on-disk. Not saying you can't go 3.5", but keep in mind overly protected on-disk copy protection can cause issues. ***''Yes, it was nothing more than annoying and it does absolutely nothing; 1:1 disk copy programs which "blindly" copy these disks will bypass 90%+ of this nonsense (you need to mirror the "bad sectors" if it's based on a sector check) IF you need to backup these programs, unless you can maintain 2 concurrent working copies. "Nibbler" copiers work best as it does it as it sees the disk.''***[br]
***''For more advanced methods, cracks are needed (either OG cracking group work, or modern archival group cracks work). Anything done recent-ish prior to upload is cracked by archival groups.''***[br]
***''The reason I mention this is thanks to cracking groups it can **MOSTLY** be written off, but be leery of originals with intact copy protection. With how well the Apple II accommodates this junk (being predominately 5 1/4"), a lot of SW has it :(.''***
-
A clone of the 3.5” controller card can be [link|https://www.reactivemicro.com/product/apple-ii-3-5-drive-controller-card/|found here]. If you want an original Apple 3.5” card, expect to pay a lot of money to get one.
+
A clone of the 3.5” controller card can be [link|https://www.reactivemicro.com/product/apple-ii-3-5-drive-controller-card/|found here|new_window=true]. If you want an original Apple 3.5” card, expect to pay a lot of money to get one.
If you are okay with 3.5” floppies and can find the appropriate disks (400/800k for Unidisk and 720k or 1.44MB for the SuperDrive if you use MFM; it’s backwards compatible with the 400/800k disks and formatting as well) in a large quantity that all work, you can always get the 3.5” Superdrive or even the original 3.5” drive. You can read more about the drives you can get [http://wiki.apple2.org/index.php?title=A2_Floppy_Controllers#Apple_II_UniDisk_3.5_Controller_.28aka_the_.27Liron.27_card.29|here] as well. It will generally cost more to do it this way, so keep that in mind if you decide to get this drive setup for the machine.
+
If you are okay with 3.5” floppies and can find the appropriate disks (400/800k for Unidisk and 720k or 1.44MB for the SuperDrive if you use MFM; it’s backwards compatible with the 400/800k disks and formatting as well) in a large quantity that all work, you can always get the 3.5” Superdrive or even the original 3.5” drive. You can read more about the drives you can get [link|http://wiki.apple2.org/index.php?title=A2_Floppy_Controllers#Apple_II_UniDisk_3.5_Controller_.28aka_the_.27Liron.27_card.29|here] as well. It will generally cost more to do it this way, so keep that in mind if you decide to get this drive setup for the machine.
-
Part of the reason 3.5” drives (and controllers) are harder to find is this was the era of [https://diskpreservation.com/dp.php?pg=protection|on-disk copy protection]. The 3.5” drives don’t cope with this as well as the 5 1/4” ones and in most (but not all) cases, it was discouraged or certain methods were considered bad. If the advice was ignored (which happened), the drives may throw a fit. Just something to keep in mind with copy protected 3.5” disks. It’s less of a problem now that it’s being cracked for archival purposes, but back when the Apple II was still relevant the 5 1/4” format was far more copy protection friendly and it was preferred on that sole basis for commercial use in some cases. If you find one of these programs and make a backup, you need to make a 1:1 blind copy so they work. That will make it complicated unless you do find a program for the Apple II that allows for it (or hardware that does it). To save the originals, it’s best if you keep 2 copies (1 for use/1 master for replacement copies).
+
Part of the reason 3.5” drives (and controllers) from this period are harder to find is this was the era of [link|https://diskpreservation.com/dp.php?pg=protection|on-disk copy protection]. The 3.5” drives never coped with it well, compared to 5 1/4" and was subsequently discouraged. Some developers ignored the fact 3.5" and on-disk copy protection DO NOT MIX well (usually companies like Autodesk and others, especially gov't contractors) and these can/do cause issues depending on how horribly aggressive the implementation is. If it's a one time check it may be fine, but that's the one and only exception to the rule with 3.5" on-disk. Not saying you can't go 3.5", but keep in mind overly protected on-disk copy protection can cause issues. ***''Yes, it was nothing more than annoying and it does absolutely nothing; 1:1 disk copy programs which "blindly" copy these disks will bypass 90%+ of this nonsense (you need to mirror the "bad sectors" if it's based on a sector check) IF you need to backup these programs, unless you can maintain 2 concurrent working copies.''***[br]
+
***''For more advanced methods, cracks are needed (either OG cracking group work, or modern archival group cracks work). Anything done recent-ish prior to upload is cracked by archival groups.''***[br]
+
***''The reason I mention this is thanks to cracking groups it can **MOSTLY** be written off, but be leery of originals with intact copy protection. With how well the Apple II accommodates this junk (being predominately 5 1/4"), a lot of SW has it :(.''***
-
A clone of the 3.5” controller card can be [https://www.reactivemicro.com/product/apple-ii-3-5-drive-controller-card/|found here]. If you want an original Apple 3.5” card, expect to pay a lot of money to get one.
+
A clone of the 3.5” controller card can be [link|https://www.reactivemicro.com/product/apple-ii-3-5-drive-controller-card/|found here]. If you want an original Apple 3.5” card, expect to pay a lot of money to get one.
If you are okay with 3.5” floppies and can find the appropriate disks (400/800k for Unidisk and 720k or 1.44MB for the SuperDrive if you use MFM; it’s backwards compatible with the 400/800k disks and formatting as well) in a large quantity that all work, you can always get the 3.5” Superdrive or even the original 3.5” drive. You can read more about the drives you can get [http://wiki.apple2.org/index.php?title=A2_Floppy_Controllers#Apple_II_UniDisk_3.5_Controller_.28aka_the_.27Liron.27_card.29|here] as well. It will generally cost more to do it this way, so keep that in mind if you decide to get this drive setup for the machine.
-
Part of the reason 3.5” drives (and controllers) are harder to find is this was the era of on-disk copy protection (intentional bad sectors or nonstandard writing). The 3.5” drives don’t cope with this as well as the 5 1/4” ones and in most (but not all) cases, it was discouraged. If the advice was ignored (which happened), the drives may throw a fit. Just something to keep in mind with copy protected 3.5” disks. It’s less of a problem now that it’s being cracked for archival purposes, but back when the Apple II was still relevant the 5 1/4” format was far more copy protection friendly and it was preferred on that sole basis for commercial use in some cases. If you find one of these programs and make a backup, you need to make a 1:1 blind copy so they work. That will make it complicated unless you do find a program for the Apple II that allows for it (or hardware that does it). To save the originals, it’s best if you keep 2 copies (1 for use/1 master for replacement copies).
+
Part of the reason 3.5” drives (and controllers) are harder to find is this was the era of [https://diskpreservation.com/dp.php?pg=protection|on-disk copy protection]. The 3.5” drives don’t cope with this as well as the 5 1/4” ones and in most (but not all) cases, it was discouraged or certain methods were considered bad. If the advice was ignored (which happened), the drives may throw a fit. Just something to keep in mind with copy protected 3.5” disks. It’s less of a problem now that it’s being cracked for archival purposes, but back when the Apple II was still relevant the 5 1/4” format was far more copy protection friendly and it was preferred on that sole basis for commercial use in some cases. If you find one of these programs and make a backup, you need to make a 1:1 blind copy so they work. That will make it complicated unless you do find a program for the Apple II that allows for it (or hardware that does it). To save the originals, it’s best if you keep 2 copies (1 for use/1 master for replacement copies).
A clone of the 3.5” controller card can be [https://www.reactivemicro.com/product/apple-ii-3-5-drive-controller-card/|found here]. If you want an original Apple 3.5” card, expect to pay a lot of money to get one.
If you are okay with 3.5” floppies and can find the appropriate disks (400/800k for Unidisk and 720k or 1.44MB for the SuperDrive if you use MFM; it’s backwards compatible with the 400/800k disks and formatting as well) in a large quantity that all work, you can always get the 3.5” Superdrive or even the original 3.5” drive. You can read more about the drives you can get [http://wiki.apple2.org/index.php?title=A2_Floppy_Controllers#Apple_II_UniDisk_3.5_Controller_.28aka_the_.27Liron.27_card.29|here] as well. It will generally cost more to do it this way, so keep that in mind if you decide to get this drive setup for the machine.
-
Part of the reason 3.5” drives (and controllers) are harder to find is this was the era of on-disk copy protection (intentional bad sectors or nonstandard writing). The 3.5” drives don’t cope with this as well as the 5 1/4” ones and in most (but not all) cases, it was discouraged and if the advice was ignored the drives may throw a fit, so keep this in mind with copy protected 3.5” disks. It’s less of a problem now that it’s being cracked years later for archival purposes, but back when the Apple II was still relevant the 5 1/4” format was more copy protection friendly. These on-diskprotection programs can only really be copied correctly if you blindly write the entire disk, so that may complicate things if you don’t have a tool for blind copying so you can protect the original and keep 2 copies (1 for use/1 master for replacement copies).
+
Part of the reason 3.5” drives (and controllers) are harder to find is this was the era of on-disk copy protection (intentional bad sectors or nonstandard writing). The 3.5” drives don’t cope with this as well as the 5 1/4” ones and in most (but not all) cases, it was discouraged. If the advice was ignored (which happened), the drives may throw a fit. Just something to keep in mind with copy protected 3.5” disks. It’s less of a problem now that it’s being cracked for archival purposes, but back when the Apple II was still relevant the 5 1/4” format was far more copy protection friendly and it was preferred on that sole basis for commercial use in some cases. If you find one of these programs and make a backup, you need to make a 1:1 blind copy so they work. That will make it complicated unless you do find a program for the Apple II that allows for it (or hardware that does it). To save the originals, it’s best if you keep 2 copies (1 for use/1 master for replacement copies).
A clone of the 3.5” controller card can be [https://www.reactivemicro.com/product/apple-ii-3-5-drive-controller-card/|found here]. If you want an original Apple 3.5” card, expect to pay a lot of money to get one.
If you are okay with 3.5” floppies and can find the appropriate disks (400/800k for Unidisk and 720k or 1.44MB for the SuperDrive if you use MFM; it’s backwards compatible with the 400/800k disks and formatting as well) in a large quantity that all work, you can always get the 3.5” Superdrive or even the original 3.5” drive. You can read more about the drives you can get [http://wiki.apple2.org/index.php?title=A2_Floppy_Controllers#Apple_II_UniDisk_3.5_Controller_.28aka_the_.27Liron.27_card.29|here] as well. It will generally cost more to do it this way, so keep that in mind if you decide to get this drive setup for the machine.
-
Part of the reason 3.5” drives (and controllers) are harder to find is this was the era of on-disk copy protection (intentional bad sectors or nonstandard writing). The 3.5” drives don’t cope with this as well as the 5 1/4” ones and in most (but not all) cases, it was discouraged and if the advice was ignored the drives may throw a fit, so keep this in mind with copy protected 3.5” disks. It’s less of a problem now that it’s being cracked years later for archival purposes, but back when the Apple II was still relevant the 5 1/4” format was more copy protection friendly. These on-disk protection programs can only really be copied correctly if you blindly write the entire disk, so that may complicate things if you don’t have a tool for blind copying.
+
Part of the reason 3.5” drives (and controllers) are harder to find is this was the era of on-disk copy protection (intentional bad sectors or nonstandard writing). The 3.5” drives don’t cope with this as well as the 5 1/4” ones and in most (but not all) cases, it was discouraged and if the advice was ignored the drives may throw a fit, so keep this in mind with copy protected 3.5” disks. It’s less of a problem now that it’s being cracked years later for archival purposes, but back when the Apple II was still relevant the 5 1/4” format was more copy protection friendly. These on-disk protection programs can only really be copied correctly if you blindly write the entire disk, so that may complicate things if you don’t have a tool for blind copying so you can protect the original and keep 2 copies (1 for use/1 master for replacement copies).
A clone of the 3.5” controller card can be [https://www.reactivemicro.com/product/apple-ii-3-5-drive-controller-card/|found here]. If you want an original Apple 3.5” card, expect to pay a lot of money to get one.
If you are okay with 3.5” floppies and can find the appropriate disks (400/800k for Unidisk and 720k or 1.44MB for the SuperDrive if you use MFM; it’s backwards compatible with the 400/800k disks and formatting as well) in a large quantity that all work, you can always get the 3.5” Superdrive or even the original 3.5” drive. You can read more about the drives you can get [http://wiki.apple2.org/index.php?title=A2_Floppy_Controllers#Apple_II_UniDisk_3.5_Controller_.28aka_the_.27Liron.27_card.29|here] as well. It will generally cost more to do it this way, so keep that in mind if you decide to get this drive setup for the machine.
-
Part of the reason 3.5” drives (and controllers) are harder to find is this was the era of on-disk copy protection (intentional bad sectors or nonstandard writing). The 3.5” drives don’t cope with this as well as the 5 1/4” ones and in most (but not all) cases, it was discouraged and if the advice was ignored the drives may throw a fit, so keep this in mind with copy protected 3.5” disks. It’s less of a problem now that it’s being cracked years later for archival purposes, but back when the Apple II was still relevant the 5 1/4” format was more copy protection friendly.
+
Part of the reason 3.5” drives (and controllers) are harder to find is this was the era of on-disk copy protection (intentional bad sectors or nonstandard writing). The 3.5” drives don’t cope with this as well as the 5 1/4” ones and in most (but not all) cases, it was discouraged and if the advice was ignored the drives may throw a fit, so keep this in mind with copy protected 3.5” disks. It’s less of a problem now that it’s being cracked years later for archival purposes, but back when the Apple II was still relevant the 5 1/4” format was more copy protection friendly. These on-disk protection programs can only really be copied correctly if you blindly write the entire disk, so that may complicate things if you don’t have a tool for blind copying.
A clone of the 3.5” controller card can be [https://www.reactivemicro.com/product/apple-ii-3-5-drive-controller-card/|found here]. If you want an original Apple 3.5” card, expect to pay a lot of money to get one.
If you are okay with 3.5” floppies and can find the appropriate disks (400/800k for Unidisk and 720k or 1.44MB for the SuperDrive if you use MFM; it’s backwards compatible with the 400/800k disks and formatting as well) in a large quantity that all work, you can always get the 3.5” Superdrive or even the original 3.5” drive. You can read more about the drives you can get [http://wiki.apple2.org/index.php?title=A2_Floppy_Controllers#Apple_II_UniDisk_3.5_Controller_.28aka_the_.27Liron.27_card.29|here] as well. It will generally cost more to do it this way, so keep that in mind if you decide to get this drive setup for the machine.
+
+
Part of the reason 3.5” drives (and controllers) are harder to find is this was the era of on-disk copy protection (intentional bad sectors or nonstandard writing). The 3.5” drives don’t cope with this as well as the 5 1/4” ones and in most (but not all) cases, it was discouraged and if the advice was ignored the drives may throw a fit, so keep this in mind with copy protected 3.5” disks. It’s less of a problem now that it’s being cracked years later for archival purposes, but back when the Apple II was still relevant the 5 1/4” format was more copy protection friendly.
A clone of the 3.5” controller card can be [https://www.reactivemicro.com/product/apple-ii-3-5-drive-controller-card/|found here]. If you want an original Apple 3.5” card, expect to pay a lot of money to get one.
If you are okay with 3.5” floppies and can find the appropriate disks in a large quantity that all work, you can always get the 3.5” Superdrive or even the original 3.5” drive. You can read more about the drives you can get [http://wiki.apple2.org/index.php?title=A2_Floppy_Controllers#Apple_II_UniDisk_3.5_Controller_.28aka_the_.27Liron.27_card.29|here] as well. It will generally cost more to do it this way, so keep that in mind if you decide to get this drive setup for the machine.
+
If you are okay with 3.5” floppies and can find the appropriate disks (400/800k for Unidisk and 720k or 1.44MB for the SuperDrive if you use MFM; it’s backwards compatible with the 400/800k disks and formatting as well) in a large quantity that all work, you can always get the 3.5” Superdrive or even the original 3.5” drive. You can read more about the drives you can get [http://wiki.apple2.org/index.php?title=A2_Floppy_Controllers#Apple_II_UniDisk_3.5_Controller_.28aka_the_.27Liron.27_card.29|here] as well. It will generally cost more to do it this way, so keep that in mind if you decide to get this drive setup for the machine.
A clone of the 3.5” controller card can be [https://www.reactivemicro.com/product/apple-ii-3-5-drive-controller-card/|found here]. If you want an original Apple 3.5” card, expect to pay a lot of money to get one.
If you are okay with 3.5” floppies and can find the appropriate disks in a large quantity that all work, you can always get the 3.5” Superdrive or even the original 3.5” drive. You can read more about the drives you can get [http://wiki.apple2.org/index.php?title=A2_Floppy_Controllers#Apple_II_UniDisk_3.5_Controller_.28aka_the_.27Liron.27_card.29|here] as well.
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If you are okay with 3.5” floppies and can find the appropriate disks in a large quantity that all work, you can always get the 3.5” Superdrive or even the original 3.5” drive. You can read more about the drives you can get [http://wiki.apple2.org/index.php?title=A2_Floppy_Controllers#Apple_II_UniDisk_3.5_Controller_.28aka_the_.27Liron.27_card.29|here] as well. It will generally cost more to do it this way, so keep that in mind if you decide to get this drive setup for the machine.
A clone of the 3.5” controller card can be [https://www.reactivemicro.com/product/apple-ii-3-5-drive-controller-card/|found here]. If you want an original Apple 3.5” card, expect to pay a lot of money to get one.
If you are okay with 3.5” floppies and can find the appropriate disks in a large quantity that all work, you can always get the 3.5” Superdrive or even the original 3.5” drive. You can read more about the drives you can get [http://wiki.apple2.org/index.php?title=A2_Floppy_Controllers#Apple_II_UniDisk_3.5_Controller_.28aka_the_.27Liron.27_card.29|here] as well.
A clone of the 3.5” controller card can be [https://www.reactivemicro.com/product/apple-ii-3-5-drive-controller-card/|found here]. If you want an original Apple 3.5” card, expect to pay a lot of money to get one.