Is it possible to rebuild the batteries economically?
crwdns2934249:0crwdne2934249:0:
I’ve had this DC970 for a while after the chuck failed and I had to break a busted bit out and oil the chuck to hold up. I’ve always jokingly said my oiled chuck will last longer then the 2010 batteries and I was right. One of my 2 batteries is at the point it initially had 16.54V with 3 bad cells and all of the remaining cells held a perfect 1.3V. I recently found out that the cutoff is 5.59V, so I investigated the state of the pack so I know what it’s current state is.
As it stands the battery went down from 16.54V (respectable amps left) to 13.43V (1A left) with one charge. I opened the pack to inspect the individual cells so I know the cause of death and I noticed 4 cells are now dead (formerly 3) and 2 of the cells dropped to 1.2V (out of 15). I didn’t see this as an issue because I knew it was dying and I’d eventually lose it. The problem is the DC970 starts to slow down (but doesn’t get crippled) at 13V, which is something I overlooked until I ran it to see what it’s going to run like from now on with that pack. This battery is effectively dead because of the massive voltage cut I took. This is a problem for most of my projects I use a drill for like drilling through thicker materials :(. I still have one more battery in descent shape (16.53V/1.08A from 18V/1.2Ah) but it’s dangerously close to death as it stands but has not been rebuilt nor considered for it (but it will probably need one sooner rather then later).
Is there a way I can get it rebuilt with NiMh or Lithium cells economically? Seeing as it’s a 8 year old drill with a chuck that has been oiled, I (understandably) want to keep my costs down. NiCd is horrible and I don’t want to use it again. I know Dewalt still sells XR OEM batteries but the issue is they are still NiCd. The 18V Lithium battery appears to be discontinued and I’d need a new charger which would negate the cost savings and put me into new drill territory anyway. It uses 4/3 Sub C cells from what I can tell, so that’s what I’m dealing with.
Is it possible to rebuild the batteries economically?
crwdns2934249:0crwdne2934249:0:
I’ve had this DC970 for a while after the chuck failed and I had to break a busted bit out and oil the chuck to hold up. I’ve always jokingly said my oiled chuck will last longer then the 2010 batteries and I was right. One of my 2 batteries is at the point it initially had 16.54V with 3 bad cells and all of the remaining cells held a perfect 1.3V. I recently found out that the cutoff is 5.59V, so I investigated the state of the pack so I know what it’s current state is.
As it stands the battery went down from 16.54V (respectable amps left) to 13.43V (1A left) with one charge. I opened the pack to inspect the individual cells so I know the cause of death and I noticed 4 cells are now dead (formerly 3) and 2 of the cells dropped to 1.2V (out of 15). I didn’t see this as an issue because I knew it was dying and I’d eventually lose it. The problem is the DC970 starts to slow down (but doesn’t get crippled) at 13V, which is something I overlooked until I ran it to see what it’s going to run like from now on with that pack. This battery is effectively dead because of the massive voltage cut I took. This is a problem for most of my projects I use a drill for like drilling through thicker materials :(. I still have one more battery in descent shape (16.53V/1.08A from 18V/1.2Ah) but it’s dangerously close to death as it stands but has not been rebuilt nor considered for it (but it will probably need one sooner rather then later).
-
Is there a way I can get it rebuilt with NiMh or Lithium cells economically? Seeing as it’s a 8 year old drill with a chuck that has been oiled, I (understandably) want to keep my costs down. NiCd is horrible and I don’t want to use it again. OEM is out because of this since DeWalt does NOT sell an 18V Lithium battery. This essentially eliminates the dual XR pack from consideration.
+
Is there a way I can get it rebuilt with NiMh or Lithium cells economically? Seeing as it’s a 8 year old drill with a chuck that has been oiled, I (understandably) want to keep my costs down. NiCd is horrible and I don’t want to use it again. I know Dewalt still sells XR OEM batteries but the issue is they are still NiCd. The 18V Lithium battery appears to be discontinued and I’d need a new charger which would negate the cost savings and put me into new drill territory anyway. It uses 4/3 Sub C cells from what I can tell, so that’s what I’m dealing with.
Is it possible to rebuild the batteries economically?
crwdns2934249:0crwdne2934249:0:
I’ve had this DC970 for a while after the chuck failed and I had to break a busted bit out and oil the chuck to hold up. I’ve always jokingly said my oiled chuck will last longer then the 2010 batteries and I was right. One of my 2 batteries is at the point it initially had 16.54V with 3 bad cells and all of the remaining cells held a perfect 1.3V. I recently found out that the cutoff is 5.59V, so I investigated the state of the pack so I know what it’s current state is.
As it stands the battery went down from 16.54V (respectable amps left) to 13.43V (1A left) with one charge. I opened the pack to inspect the individual cells so I know the cause of death and I noticed 4 cells are now dead (formerly 3) and 2 of the cells dropped to 1.2V (out of 15). I didn’t see this as an issue because I knew it was dying and I’d eventually lose it. The problem is the DC970 starts to slow down (but doesn’t get crippled) at 13V, which is something I overlooked until I ran it to see what it’s going to run like from now on with that pack. This battery is effectively dead because of the massive voltage cut I took. This is a problem for most of my projects I use a drill for like drilling through thicker materials :(. I still have one more battery in descent shape (16.53V/1.08A from 18V/1.2Ah) but it’s dangerously close to death as it stands but has not been rebuilt nor considered for it (but it will probably need one sooner rather then later).
-
Is there a way I can get it rebuilt with NiMh cells economically? Seeing as it’s a 8 year old drill with a chuck that has been oiled, I (understandably) want to keep my costs down. NiCd is horrible and I don’t want to use it again. OEM is out because of this since DeWalt does NOT sell an 18V Lithium battery. This essentially eliminates the dual XR pack from consideration.
+
Is there a way I can get it rebuilt with NiMh or Lithium cells economically? Seeing as it’s a 8 year old drill with a chuck that has been oiled, I (understandably) want to keep my costs down. NiCd is horrible and I don’t want to use it again. OEM is out because of this since DeWalt does NOT sell an 18V Lithium battery. This essentially eliminates the dual XR pack from consideration.
Is it possible to rebuild the batteries economically?
crwdns2934249:0crwdne2934249:0:
I’ve had this DC970 for a while after the chuck failed and I had to break a busted bit out and oil the chuck to hold up. I’ve always jokingly said my oiled chuck will last longer then the 2010 batteries and I was right. One of my 2 batteries is at the point it initially had 16.54V with 3 bad cells and all of the remaining cells held a perfect 1.3V. I recently found out that the cutoff is 5.59V, so I investigated the state of the pack so I know what it’s current state is.
-
The problem NOW is that a (dying but respectable) battery with a good amount of amps and 16.54V of power left dropped down to 13.43V/1A within one charge. I opened the pack to inspect the individual cells just to see and I noticed 2 of the cells dropped to 1.2V and a 4th cell died. I didn’t see this as an issue because I knew it was dying and I’d eventually lose it. The problem is the DC970 starts to slow down (but doesn’t get crippled) at 13V, which is something I overlooked until I ran it to see what it’s going to run like from now on with that pack. This battery is effectively dead because of the massive voltage cut I took. This is a problem for most of my projects I use a drill for like drilling through thicker materials :(.
+
As it stands the battery went down from 16.54V (respectable amps left) to 13.43V (1A left) with one charge. I opened the pack to inspect the individual cells so I know the cause of death and I noticed 4 cells are now dead (formerly 3) and 2 of the cells dropped to 1.2V (out of 15). I didn’t see this as an issue because I knew it was dying and I’d eventually lose it. The problem is the DC970 starts to slow down (but doesn’t get crippled) at 13V, which is something I overlooked until I ran it to see what it’s going to run like from now on with that pack. This battery is effectively dead because of the massive voltage cut I took. This is a problem for most of my projects I use a drill for like drilling through thicker materials :(. I still have one more battery in descent shape (16.53V/1.08A from 18V/1.2Ah) but it’s dangerously close to death as it stands but has not been rebuilt nor considered for it (but it will probably need one sooner rather then later).
-
My other battery (still using NiCd) is doing well but I took another voltage hit (17.83V down to 16.53V) and the remaining amps are on the low side (1.08A left). This could probably stand to be rebuilt as well, but it’s not in dire need of it.
-
-
Is there a way I can get it rebuilt with NiMh cells economically? Seeing as it’s a 8 year old drill with a chuck that has been oiled, I (understandably) want to keep my costs down. I don’t want another NiCd pack; it’s a horrible battery tech and you CANNOT get anything but NiCd from DeWalt (as an OEM battery) which eliminates the dual XR pack from consideration.
+
Is there a way I can get it rebuilt with NiMh cells economically? Seeing as it’s a 8 year old drill with a chuck that has been oiled, I (understandably) want to keep my costs down. NiCd is horrible and I don’t want to use it again. OEM is out because of this since DeWalt does NOT sell an 18V Lithium battery. This essentially eliminates the dual XR pack from consideration.
Is it possible to rebuild the batteries economically?
crwdns2934249:0crwdne2934249:0:
I’ve had this DC970 for a while after the chuck failed and I had to break a busted bit out and oil the chuck to hold up. I’ve always jokingly said my oiled chuck will last longer then the 2010 batteries and I was right. One of my 2 batteries is at the point it initially had 16.54V with 3 bad cells and all of the remaining cells held a perfect 1.3V. I recently found out that the cutoff is 5.59V, so I investigated the state of the pack so I know what it’s current state is.
The problem NOW is that a (dying but respectable) battery with a good amount of amps and 16.54V of power left dropped down to 13.43V/1A within one charge. I opened the pack to inspect the individual cells just to see and I noticed 2 of the cells dropped to 1.2V and a 4th cell died. I didn’t see this as an issue because I knew it was dying and I’d eventually lose it. The problem is the DC970 starts to slow down (but doesn’t get crippled) at 13V, which is something I overlooked until I ran it to see what it’s going to run like from now on with that pack. This battery is effectively dead because of the massive voltage cut I took. This is a problem for most of my projects I use a drill for like drilling through thicker materials :(.
+
+
My other battery (still using NiCd) is doing well but I took another voltage hit (17.83V down to 16.53V) and the remaining amps are on the low side (1.08A left). This could probably stand to be rebuilt as well, but it’s not in dire need of it.
Is there a way I can get it rebuilt with NiMh cells economically? Seeing as it’s a 8 year old drill with a chuck that has been oiled, I (understandably) want to keep my costs down. I don’t want another NiCd pack; it’s a horrible battery tech and you CANNOT get anything but NiCd from DeWalt (as an OEM battery) which eliminates the dual XR pack from consideration.
Is it possible to rebuild the batteries economically?
crwdns2934249:0crwdne2934249:0:
-
I’ve had this DC970 for a while after the chuck failed and I had to break a busted bit out and oil the chuck to hold up. I’ve always jokingly said my oiled chuck will last longer then the 2010 batteries and I was right. One of my 2 batteries is at the point it initially had 16.54V with 3 bad cells and all of the remaining cells held a perfect 1.3V. That ended recently as the battery now cuts off at 5.59V, which I didn’t think too much of until I realized how bad the situation was.
+
I’ve had this DC970 for a while after the chuck failed and I had to break a busted bit out and oil the chuck to hold up. I’ve always jokingly said my oiled chuck will last longer then the 2010 batteries and I was right. One of my 2 batteries is at the point it initially had 16.54V with 3 bad cells and all of the remaining cells held a perfect 1.3V. I recently found out that the cutoff is 5.59V, so I investigated the state of the pack so I know what it’s current state is.
-
The problem NOW is that 16.54V battery (withrespectable remaining amps) dropped to 13.43V/1A within one charge. I opened the pack to inspect the individual cells just to see and I noticed 2 of the cells dropped to 1.2V and a 4th cell died. I didn’t see this as an issue because I knew it was dying and I’d eventually lose it. The problem is the DC970 starts to slow down (but doesn’t get crippled) at 13V, which is something I overlooked until I ran it to see what it’s going to run like from now on with that pack. This battery is effectively dead because of the massive voltage cut I took. This is a problem for most of my projects I use a drill for like drilling through thicker materials :(.
+
The problem NOW is that a (dying but respectable) battery with a good amount of amps and 16.54V of power left dropped down to 13.43V/1A within one charge. I opened the pack to inspect the individual cells just to see and I noticed 2 of the cells dropped to 1.2V and a 4th cell died. I didn’t see this as an issue because I knew it was dying and I’d eventually lose it. The problem is the DC970 starts to slow down (but doesn’t get crippled) at 13V, which is something I overlooked until I ran it to see what it’s going to run like from now on with that pack. This battery is effectively dead because of the massive voltage cut I took. This is a problem for most of my projects I use a drill for like drilling through thicker materials :(.
Is there a way I can get it rebuilt with NiMh cells economically? Seeing as it’s a 8 year old drill with a chuck that has been oiled, I (understandably) want to keep my costs down. I don’t want another NiCd pack; it’s a horrible battery tech and you CANNOT get anything but NiCd from DeWalt (as an OEM battery) which eliminates the dual XR pack from consideration.
Is it possible to rebuild the batteries economically?
crwdns2934249:0crwdne2934249:0:
I’ve had this DC970 for a while after the chuck failed and I had to break a busted bit out and oil the chuck to hold up. I’ve always jokingly said my oiled chuck will last longer then the 2010 batteries and I was right. One of my 2 batteries is at the point it initially had 16.54V with 3 bad cells and all of the remaining cells held a perfect 1.3V. That ended recently as the battery now cuts off at 5.59V, which I didn’t think too much of until I realized how bad the situation was.
The problem NOW is that 16.54V battery (with respectable remaining amps) dropped to 13.43V/1A within one charge. I opened the pack to inspect the individual cells just to see and I noticed 2 of the cells dropped to 1.2V and a 4th cell died. I didn’t see this as an issue because I knew it was dying and I’d eventually lose it. The problem is the DC970 starts to slow down (but doesn’t get crippled) at 13V, which is something I overlooked until I ran it to see what it’s going to run like from now on with that pack. This battery is effectively dead because of the massive voltage cut I took. This is a problem for most of my projects I use a drill for like drilling through thicker materials :(.
Is there a way I can get it rebuilt with NiMh cells economically? Seeing as it’s a 8 year old drill with a chuck that has been oiled, I (understandably) want to keep my costs down. I don’t want another NiCd pack; it’s a horrible battery tech and you CANNOT get anything but NiCd from DeWalt (as an OEM battery) which eliminates the dual XR pack from consideration.