There’s a way to get the bit out that worked on an inherited Dewalt DC970, but it is sacrificial to the drill bit stuck in the chuck. This should work on your drill as well.
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The bit WILL be sacrificed, so if you need it and can’t quickly replace it find a non-destructive solution. Most of the time you can get a new bit individually or in a bit set if the cost is just about the same. What I did to fix it is I locked the motor switch and got scrap wood and bent the bit to a 90 degree angle. That was sufficient to beat on the cuck and loosen it with brute force. It may damage some cheap chucks beyond repair, so keep that risk in mind. It didn’t happen on mine since the pre-18V DeWalts often use a Jacob’s chuck (not true on the newer 20V ones!), so YMWV based on who made the chuck.
+
The bit WILL be sacrificed, so if you need it and can’t quickly replace it find a non-destructive solution. Most of the time you can get a new bit individually or in a bit set if the cost is just about the same. What I did to fix it is I locked the motor switch and got scrap wood and bent the bit to a 90 degree angle. That was sufficient to beat on the cuck and loosen it with brute force. It may damage some cheap chucks beyond repair, so keep that risk in mind. It didn’t happen on mine since the pre-20V DeWalts often use a Jacob’s chuck (not true on the newer 20V ones!), so YMWV based on who made the chuck.
It has always worked fine since but that may be in part due to the fact I put 3-in-1 oil in the chuck to help it post beating and sanded the rust inside as I can to prevent that from causing another problem. It also helped how smoothly the chuck moves as well, so it compensates for any potential damage. It’ll never be perfect again because of the obvious internal issues and beating I did, but I intend to use it until the batteries are dead. As far as batteries go, it isn’t worth buying any because I can only choose 3rd party NiMh or 1st/3rd party NiCd. Every time I’ve used NiCd packs, they’ve been nothing but terrible. Unless I get another plastic chuck DeWalt (and in the future one with a metal chuck) for batteries and the DCA1820, the thing is a total loss.
If you can afford it, find a drill with a metal chuck. You’ll thank yourself when it’s still holding up better than plastic.
There’s a way to get the bit out that worked on an inherited Dewalt DC970, but it is sacrificial to the drill bit stuck in the chuck. This should work on your drill as well.
-
The bit WILL be sacrificed, so if you need it and can’t quickly replace it find a non-destructive solution. Most of the time you can get a new bit individually or in a bit set if the cost is just about the same. What I did to fix it is I locked the motor switch and got scrap wood and bent the bit to a 90 degree angle. That was sufficient to beat on the cuck and loosen it with brute force. It may damage the chuck beyond repair, so keep that risk in mind. It didn’t happen on mine, but I also have a Jacobs chuck so survivability may not be as good on a cheaper chuck - but on the other it’s already broken.
+
The bit WILL be sacrificed, so if you need it and can’t quickly replace it find a non-destructive solution. Most of the time you can get a new bit individually or in a bit set if the cost is just about the same. What I did to fix it is I locked the motor switch and got scrap wood and bent the bit to a 90 degree angle. That was sufficient to beat on the cuck and loosen it with brute force. It may damage some cheap chucks beyond repair, so keep that risk in mind. It didn’t happen on mine since the pre-18V DeWalts often use a Jacob’s chuck (not true on the newer 20V ones!), so YMWV based on who made the chuck.
-
It has always worked fine since but that may be in part due to the fact I put 3-in-1 oil in the chuck to help it post beating and sanded the rust inside as I can to prevent that from causing another problem. It also provides a bonus of making the chuck open and close smoothly as if I didn’t beat the crap out of it to free a busted bit. It’ll never be perfect again because of the obvious internal issues and beating, but I intend to use it until the batteries are dead. It isn’t worth buying any because I can only choose 3rd party NiMh or 1st/3rd party NiCd. Every time I’ve used NiCd packs, they’ve been nothing but terrible.
+
It has always worked fine since but that may be in part due to the fact I put 3-in-1 oil in the chuck to help it post beating and sanded the rust inside as I can to prevent that from causing another problem. It also helped how smoothly the chuck moves as well, so it compensates for any potential damage. It’ll never be perfect again because of the obvious internal issues and beating I did, but I intend to use it until the batteries are dead. As far as batteries go, it isn’t worth buying any because I can only choose 3rd party NiMh or 1st/3rd party NiCd. Every time I’ve used NiCd packs, they’ve been nothing but terrible. Unless I get another plastic chuck DeWalt (and in the future one with a metal chuck) for batteries and the DCA1820, the thing is a total loss.
+
+
If you can afford it, find a drill with a metal chuck. You’ll thank yourself when it’s still holding up better than plastic.
There’s a way to get the bit out that worked on an inherited Dewalt DC970, but it is sacrificial to the drill bit stuck in the chuck. This should work on your drill as well.
-
The bit WILL be sacrificed, so if you need it and can’t quickly replace it find a non-destructive solution. Most of the time you can get a new bit individually or in a bit set if the cost is just about the same. What I did to fix it is I locked the motor switch and got scrap wood and bent the bit to a 90 degree angle. Once I had that angle in place I was able to slam the chuck until the bit came out and I could use the drill again. While it’s not very likely to do any damage (the chuck is already bad), this may irrecoverably break it.
+
The bit WILL be sacrificed, so if you need it and can’t quickly replace it find a non-destructive solution. Most of the time you can get a new bit individually or in a bit set if the cost is just about the same. What I did to fix it is I locked the motor switch and got scrap wood and bent the bit to a 90 degree angle. That was sufficient to beat on the cuck and loosen it with brute force. It may damage the chuck beyond repair, so keep that risk in mind. It didn’t happen on mine, but I also have a Jacobs chuck so survivability may not be as good on a cheaper chuck - but on the other it’s already broken.
-
It has always worked fine since but I’ve sanded the rust inside the chuck as much as I can to prevent that from causing another problem and put 3-in-1 oil in the chuck to remove as much as I can from more inaccessible areas. It also provides a bonus of making the chuck open and close smoothly as if I didn’t beat the crap out of it to free a busted bit. It’ll never be perfect again because of the previous problem and using force on it to loosen it so I can try and salvage it, but I still intend to run it until it the batteries I have fail. It isn’t worth buying any because I can only choose 3rd party NiMh or 1st/3rd party NiCd and in my experience, NiCd is a crappy battery technology.
+
It has always worked fine since but that may be in part due to the fact I put 3-in-1 oil in the chuck to help it post beating and sanded the rust inside as I can to prevent that from causing another problem. It also provides a bonus of making the chuck open and close smoothly as if I didn’t beat the crap out of it to free a busted bit. It’ll never be perfect again because of the obvious internal issues and beating, but I intend to use it until the batteries are dead. It isn’t worth buying any because I can only choose 3rd party NiMh or 1st/3rd party NiCd. Every time I’ve used NiCd packs, they’ve been nothing but terrible.
There’s a way to get the bit out that worked on an inherited Dewalt DC970, but it is sacrificial to the drill bit stuck in the chuck. This should work on your drill as well.
The bit WILL be sacrificed, so if you need it and can’t quickly replace it find a non-destructive solution. Most of the time you can get a new bit individually or in a bit set if the cost is just about the same. What I did to fix it is I locked the motor switch and got scrap wood and bent the bit to a 90 degree angle. Once I had that angle in place I was able to slam the chuck until the bit came out and I could use the drill again. While it’s not very likely to do any damage (the chuck is already bad), this may irrecoverably break it.
-
It has always worked fine since but I’ve sanded the rust inside the chuck as much as I can to prevent that from causing another problem and put 3-in-1 oil in the chuck so the inaccessible rust is removed as much as possible and to make it open and close smoothly. It’ll never be perfect again because the chuck failed and I usee force to get it open, but I still intend to run it until it needs batteries because I can only choose 3rd party NiMh or 1st/3rd party NiCd packs.
+
It has always worked fine since but I’ve sanded the rust inside the chuck as much as I can to prevent that from causing another problem and put 3-in-1 oil in the chuck to remove as much as I can from more inaccessible areas. It also provides a bonus of making the chuck open and close smoothly as if I didn’t beat the crap out of it to free a busted bit. It’ll never be perfect again because of the previous problem and using force on it to loosen it so I can try and salvage it, but I still intend to run it until it the batteries I have fail. It isn’t worth buying any because I can only choose 3rd party NiMh or 1st/3rd party NiCd and in my experience, NiCd is a crappy battery technology.
There’s a way to get the bit out that worked on an inherited Dewalt DC970, but it is sacrificial to the drill bit stuck in the chuck. This should work on your drill as well.
The bit WILL be sacrificed, so if you need it and can’t quickly replace it find a non-destructive solution. Most of the time you can get a new bit individually or in a bit set if the cost is just about the same. What I did to fix it is I locked the motor switch and got scrap wood and bent the bit to a 90 degree angle. Once I had that angle in place I was able to slam the chuck until the bit came out and I could use the drill again. While it’s not very likely to do any damage (the chuck is already bad), this may irrecoverably break it.
-
It has always worked fine since but I’ve sanded the rust inside the chuck as much as I can to prevent that from causing another problem and put 3-in-1 oil in the chuck so the inaccessible rust is removed as much as possible. It’ll never be perfect again because the chuck failed and I usee force to get it open, but I still intend to run it until it needs batteries because I can only choose 3rd party NiMh or 1st/3rd party NiCd packs.
+
It has always worked fine since but I’ve sanded the rust inside the chuck as much as I can to prevent that from causing another problem and put 3-in-1 oil in the chuck so the inaccessible rust is removed as much as possible and to make it open and close smoothly. It’ll never be perfect again because the chuck failed and I usee force to get it open, but I still intend to run it until it needs batteries because I can only choose 3rd party NiMh or 1st/3rd party NiCd packs.
There’s a way to get the bit out that worked on an inherited Dewalt DC970, but it is sacrificial to the drill bit stuck in the chuck. This should work on your drill as well.
-
This WILL destroy the bit, so if you need it and can’t quickly replace it I’d really recommend trying a non-destructive solution unless it’s already broken or it’s a common size you can find in any bit set or individually if you just need that one bit. What I did to fix it is I locked the motor switch and got scrap wood. After that I slammed the bit until it bent to a 90 degree angle I could work with. Once I had that angle in place I was now able to slam the chuck until the bit came out and I could use the drill again. While it’s not very likely to do any damage (the chuck is already bad), this may irrecoverably break it.
+
The bit WILL be sacrificed, so if you need it and can’t quickly replace it find a non-destructive solution. Most of the time you can get a new bit individually or in a bit set if the cost is just about the same. What I did to fix it is I locked the motor switch and got scrap wood and bent the bit to a 90 degree angle. Once I had that angle in place I was able to slam the chuck until the bit came out and I could use the drill again. While it’s not very likely to do any damage (the chuck is already bad), this may irrecoverably break it.
-
It has always worked fine since but I’ve sanded the rust inside the chuck as much as I can to prevent that from causing another problem and put 3-in-1 oil in the chuck so I can clean the inaccessible rust and I know it will be good for a while. It’ll never be perfect again because the chuck failed and I beat it open, but I still intend to run it until it needs batteries because I can only choose 3rd party NiMh or 1st/3rd party NiCd packs.
+
It has always worked fine since but I’ve sanded the rust inside the chuck as much as I can to prevent that from causing another problem and put 3-in-1 oil in the chuck so the inaccessible rust is removed as much as possible. It’ll never be perfect again because the chuck failed and I usee force to get it open, but I still intend to run it until it needs batteries because I can only choose 3rd party NiMh or 1st/3rd party NiCd packs.
There’s a way to get the bit out that worked on an inherited Dewalt DC970, but it is sacrificial to the drill bit stuck in the chuck. This should work on your drill as well.
This WILL destroy the bit, so if you need it and can’t quickly replace it I’d really recommend trying a non-destructive solution unless it’s already broken or it’s a common size you can find in any bit set or individually if you just need that one bit. What I did to fix it is I locked the motor switch and got scrap wood. After that I slammed the bit until it bent to a 90 degree angle I could work with. Once I had that angle in place I was now able to slam the chuck until the bit came out and I could use the drill again. While it’s not very likely to do any damage (the chuck is already bad), this may irrecoverably break it.
-
It has always worked fine since but I’ve sanded the rust inside the chuck as much as I can to prevent that from causing another problem and put 3-in-1 oil in the chuck so I know it will always work as smoothly as possible. It’ll never be perfect again because the chuck failed to begin with and I did abuse it to make it work again but I’m going to use this drill until the batteries fail and then probably consider replacing it since I can’t get Lithium batteries and am limited to NiCd or NiMh.
+
It has always worked fine since but I’ve sanded the rust inside the chuck as much as I can to prevent that from causing another problem and put 3-in-1 oil in the chuck so I can clean the inaccessible rust and I know it will be good for a while. It’ll never be perfect again because the chuck failed and I beat it open, but I still intend to run it until it needs batteries because I can only choose 3rd party NiMh or 1st/3rd party NiCd packs.
There’s a way to get the bit out that worked on an inherited Dewalt DC970, but it is sacrificial to the drill bit stuck in the chuck. This should work on your drill as well.
-
This WILL destroy the bit, so if you need it and can’t quickly replace it I’d really recommend trying a non-destructive solution unless it’s already broken or it’s a common size you can find in any bit set or individually if you just need that one bit. What I did to fix it is I locked the motor switch and got scrap wood. After that I slammed the bit until it bent to a 90 degree angle I could work with. Once I had that angle in place I was now able to slam the chuck until the bit came out and I could use the drill again.
+
This WILL destroy the bit, so if you need it and can’t quickly replace it I’d really recommend trying a non-destructive solution unless it’s already broken or it’s a common size you can find in any bit set or individually if you just need that one bit. What I did to fix it is I locked the motor switch and got scrap wood. After that I slammed the bit until it bent to a 90 degree angle I could work with. Once I had that angle in place I was now able to slam the chuck until the bit came out and I could use the drill again. While it’s not very likely to do any damage (the chuck is already bad), this may irrecoverably break it.
It has always worked fine since but I’ve sanded the rust inside the chuck as much as I can to prevent that from causing another problem and put 3-in-1 oil in the chuck so I know it will always work as smoothly as possible. It’ll never be perfect again because the chuck failed to begin with and I did abuse it to make it work again but I’m going to use this drill until the batteries fail and then probably consider replacing it since I can’t get Lithium batteries and am limited to NiCd or NiMh.
There’s a way to get the bit out that worked on an inherited Dewalt DC970, but it meant I had to destroy the bit in order to free it. I got the drill because of the exact same problem you’re having.
+
There’s a way to get the bit out that worked on an inherited Dewalt DC970, but it is sacrificial to the drill bit stuck in the chuck. This should work on your drill as well.
-
This WILL destroy the bit, so if you need it I’d really recommend trying another solution first unless it’s already broken or a common size you can find in any bit set or individually to replace the bit you destroyed to free up the chuck. What I did to fix it is I locked the motor switch and got scrap wood. After that I slammed the bit until it bent to a 90 degree angle I could work with. Once I had that angle in place I was now able to slam the chuck until the bit came out and I could use the drill again.
+
This WILL destroy the bit, so if you need it and can’t quickly replace it I’d really recommend trying a non-destructive solution unless it’s already broken or it’s a common size you can find in any bit set or individually if you just need that one bit. What I did to fix it is I locked the motor switch and got scrap wood. After that I slammed the bit until it bent to a 90 degree angle I could work with. Once I had that angle in place I was now able to slam the chuck until the bit came out and I could use the drill again.
It has always worked fine since but I’ve sanded the rust inside the chuck as much as I can to prevent that from causing another problem and put 3-in-1 oil in the chuck so I know it will always work as smoothly as possible. It’ll never be perfect again because the chuck failed to begin with and I did abuse it to make it work again but I’m going to use this drill until the batteries fail and then probably consider replacing it since I can’t get Lithium batteries and am limited to NiCd or NiMh.
There’s a way to get the bit out that worked on an inherited Dewalt DC970, but it meant I had to destroy the bit in order to free it. I got the drill because of the exact same problem you’re having.
This WILL destroy the bit, so if you need it I’d really recommend trying another solution first unless it’s already broken or a common size you can find in any bit set or individually to replace the bit you destroyed to free up the chuck. What I did to fix it is I locked the motor switch and got scrap wood. After that I slammed the bit until it bent to a 90 degree angle I could work with. Once I had that angle in place I was now able to slam the chuck until the bit came out and I could use the drill again.
It has always worked fine since but I’ve sanded the rust inside the chuck as much as I can to prevent that from causing another problem and put 3-in-1 oil in the chuck so I know it will always work as smoothly as possible. It’ll never be perfect again because the chuck failed to begin with and I did abuse it to make it work again but I’m going to use this drill until the batteries fail and then probably consider replacing it since I can’t get Lithium batteries and am limited to NiCd or NiMh.