I recently worked on two controllers for someone. In this deal, I got to keep the newer controller that had an issue with a bad RB button (which has been temporarily fixed) in exchange for recovering the firmware on a Model 1537.
On the 1537, there is a hardware flaw that allows unpairing if done correctly. I've detailed it in the previous post, found here: [post|347582]. This didn't work, so I tried a similar, but different way of doing it on the new controllers:
* Plug it into a PC over USB (this is to get it to try to connect over Wireless)
* Unplug the cable (this makes it try wireless)
* Pair it away from the console, ensuring it can't get a signal
The idea behind this was the pairing would "erase" because it gets invalidated and is considered unusable. This would work because the controller could not fetch clean pairing data.
The new controllers are not working with this method so this was clearly a (very useful) flaw in the hardware on the old controllers. It has since been fixed since the pairing is now persistent enough this no longer works or shows signs of working.
Is there a similar hardware flaw in these new controllers to do this like I did on the 1537's, or is this procedure not an option anymore and I can't get rid of it like I did on my old controller without the PC receiver?
I recently worked on two controllers for someone. In this deal, I got to keep the newer controller that had an issue with a bad RB button (which has been temporarily fixed) in exchange for repairing the one this person killed by bricking the firmware (Model 1537).
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I recently worked on two controllers for someone. In this deal, I got to keep the newer controller that had an issue with a bad RB button (which has been temporarily fixed) in exchange for recovering the firmware on a Model 1537.
-
There's a hardware flaw on the 1537 boards that allow me to "unpair" it. You can read more about how I do it on the 1537 here: [post|347582]. This didn't work, so I tried a similar, but different way of doing it:
+
On the 1537, there is a hardware flaw that allows unpairing if done correctly. I've detailed it in the previous post, found here: [post|347582]. This didn't work, so I tried a similar, but different way of doing it on the new controllers:
* Plug it into a PC over USB (this is to get it to try to connect over Wireless)
* Unplug the cable (this makes it try wireless)
* Pair it away from the console, ensuring it can't get a signal
-
The idea behind this is the controller would either erase it and not draw new pairing or it would be invalidated by corrupting it.
+
The idea behind this was the pairing would "erase" because it gets invalidated and is considered unusable. This would work because the controller could not fetch clean pairing data.
-
The controller is not behaving how I know it to behave when I use either approach to dealing with the pairing, so I think the flaw I used was fixed with the revised controller. It doesn't erase it or behave as if it's going to happen.
+
The new controllers are not working with this method so this was clearly a (very useful) flaw in the hardware on the old controllers. It has since been fixed since the pairing is now persistent enough this no longer works or shows signs of working.
-
Is there a hardware flaw in this board to allow for the same thing, or am I stuck with the pairing on this controller unless I get the PC adapter to remove it from the console it came from?
+
Is there a similar hardware flaw in these new controllers to do this like I did on the 1537's, or is this procedure not an option anymore and I can't get rid of it like I did on my old controller without the PC receiver?
I recently worked on two controllers for someone. In this deal, I got to keep the newer controller that had an issue with a bad RB button (which has been temporarily fixed) in exchange for repairing the one this person killed by bricking the firmware (Model 1537).
There's a hardware flaw on the 1537 boards that allow me to "unpair" it. You can read more about how I do it on the 1537 here: [post|347582]. This didn't work, so I tried a similar, but different way of doing it:
* Plug it into a PC over USB (this is to get it to try to connect over Wireless)
* Unplug the cable (this makes it try wireless)
* Pair it away from the console, ensuring it can't get a signal
The idea behind this is the controller would either erase it and not draw new pairing or it would be invalidated by corrupting it.
The controller is not behaving how I know it to behave when I use either approach to dealing with the pairing, so I think the flaw I used was fixed with the revised controller. It doesn't erase it or behave as if it's going to happen.
Is there a hardware flaw in this board to allow for the same thing, or am I stuck with the pairing on this controller unless I get the PC adapter to remove it from the console it came from?
I recently worked on two controllers for someone. In this deal, I got to keep the newer controller that had an issue with the RB button (which has been temporarily fixed) in exchange for repairing the one this person killed by bricking the firmware (Model 1537).
+
I recently worked on two controllers for someone. In this deal, I got to keep the newer controller that had an issue with a bad RB button (which has been temporarily fixed) in exchange for repairing the one this person killed by bricking the firmware (Model 1537).
There's a hardware flaw on the 1537 boards that allow me to "unpair" it. You can read more about how I do it on the 1537 here: [post|347582]. This didn't work, so I tried a similar, but different way of doing it:
* Plug it into a PC over USB (this is to get it to try to connect over Wireless)
* Unplug the cable (this makes it try wireless)
* Pair it away from the console, ensuring it can't get a signal
The idea behind this is the controller would either erase it and not draw new pairing or it would be invalidated by corrupting it.
The controller is not behaving how I know it to behave when I use either approach to dealing with the pairing, so I think the flaw I used was fixed with the revised controller. It doesn't erase it or behave as if it's going to happen.
Is there a hardware flaw in this board to allow for the same thing, or am I stuck with the pairing on this controller unless I get the PC adapter to remove it from the console it came from?
I recently worked on two controllers for someone. In this deal, I got to keep the newer controller that had an issue with the RB button (which has been temporarily fixed) in exchange for repairing the one this person killed by bricking the firmware (Model 1537).
-
There's a hardware flaw on the 1537 boards that allow me to "unpair" it. You can read more about it here: [https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/347582/Is+it+possible+to+unpair+these+controllers|1537 HW flaw that allows unpairing]. This didn't work, so I tried a similar, but different way of doing it:
+
There's a hardware flaw on the 1537 boards that allow me to "unpair" it. You can read more about how I do it on the 1537 here: [post|347582]. This didn't work, so I tried a similar, but different way of doing it:
+
* Plug it into a PC over USB (this is to get it to try to connect over Wireless)
* Unplug the cable (this makes it try wireless)
* Pair it away from the console, ensuring it can't get a signal
+
The idea behind this is the controller would either erase it and not draw new pairing or it would be invalidated by corrupting it.
The controller is not behaving how I know it to behave when I use either approach to dealing with the pairing, so I think the flaw I used was fixed with the revised controller. It doesn't erase it or behave as if it's going to happen.
Is there a hardware flaw in this board to allow for the same thing, or am I stuck with the pairing on this controller unless I get the PC adapter to remove it from the console it came from?
I recently worked on two controllers for someone. In this deal, I got to keep the newer controller that had an issue with the RB button (which has been temporarily fixed) in exchange for repairing the one this person killed by bricking the firmware (Model 1537).
-
There's a hardware flaw on the 1537 boards that allow me to "unpair" it by plugging it into a PC, unplugging it and letting it try and run over wireless, staying away from the Xbox (areas with metal doors are preferred) and trying to pair it, which draws a blank as far as the controller is concerned. This erased the pairing on the controller (or invalidated it to the point it doesn't try).
+
There's a hardware flaw on the 1537 boards that allow me to "unpair" it. You can read more about it here: [https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/347582/Is+it+possible+to+unpair+these+controllers|1537 HW flaw that allows unpairing]. This didn't work, so I tried a similar, but different way of doing it:
+
* Plug it into a PC over USB (this is to get it to try to connect over Wireless)
+
* Unplug the cable (this makes it try wireless)
+
* Pair it away from the console, ensuring it can't get a signal
+
The idea behind this is the controller would either erase it and not draw new pairing or it would be invalidated by corrupting it.
-
The controller is not behaving how I know it to behave when I do this, so I believe they may have fixed the flaw in the wireless module that caused this to work and the paring no longer erased as it did in the past.
+
The controller is not behaving how I know it to behave when I use either approach to dealing with the pairing, so I think the flaw I used was fixed with the revised controller. It doesn't erase it or behave as if it's going to happen.
Is there a hardware flaw in this board to allow for the same thing, or am I stuck with the pairing on this controller unless I get the PC adapter to remove it from the console it came from?
I recently worked on two controllers for someone. In this deal, I got to keep the newer controller that had an issue with the RB button (which has been temporarily fixed) in exchange for repairing the one this person killed by bricking the firmware (Model 1537).
-
There's a hardware flaw on the 1537 boards that allow me to "unpair" it by plugging it into a PC and letting it try and run over wireless, staying away from the Xbox (areas with metal doors are preferred), which draws a blank as far as the controller is concerned. This erased the pairing on the controller (or invalidated it to the point it doesn't try).
+
There's a hardware flaw on the 1537 boards that allow me to "unpair" it by plugging it into a PC, unplugging it and letting it try and run over wireless, staying away from the Xbox (areas with metal doors are preferred) and trying to pair it, which draws a blank as far as the controller is concerned. This erased the pairing on the controller (or invalidated it to the point it doesn't try).
The controller is not behaving how I know it to behave when I do this, so I believe they may have fixed the flaw in the wireless module that caused this to work and the paring no longer erased as it did in the past.
Is there a hardware flaw in this board to allow for the same thing, or am I stuck with the pairing on this controller unless I get the PC adapter to remove it from the console it came from?
I recently worked on two controllers for someone. In this deal, I got to keep the newer controller that had an issue with the RB button (which has been temporarily fixed) in exchange for repairing the one this person killed by bricking the firmware (Model 1537).
There's a hardware flaw on the 1537 boards that allow me to "unpair" it by plugging it into a PC and letting it try and run over wireless, staying away from the Xbox (areas with metal doors are preferred), which draws a blank as far as the controller is concerned. This erased the pairing on the controller (or invalidated it to the point it doesn't try).
The controller is not behaving how I know it to behave when I do this, so I believe they may have fixed the flaw in the wireless module that caused this to work and the paring no longer erased as it did in the past.
Is there a hardware flaw in this board to allow for the same thing, or am I stuck with the pairing on this controller unless I get the PC adapter to remove it from the console it came from?
I recently worked on two controllers for someone. In this deal, I got to keep the newer controller that had an issue with the RB button (which has been temporarily fixed) in exchange for repairing the one this person killed by bricking the firmware (Model 1537).
-
There's a hardware flaw on the 1537 boards that allow me to "unpair" it by plugging it into a PC, staying away from the Xbox (areas with metal doors are preferred), which draws a blank as far as the controller is concerned. This will erase the pairing on the controller (or invalidate it to the point it doesn't try).
+
There's a hardware flaw on the 1537 boards that allow me to "unpair" it by plugging it into a PC and letting it try and run over wireless, staying away from the Xbox (areas with metal doors are preferred), which draws a blank as far as the controller is concerned. This erased the pairing on the controller (or invalidated it to the point it doesn't try).
The controller is not behaving how I know it to behave when I do this, so I believe they may have fixed the flaw in the wireless module that caused this to work and the paring no longer erased as it did in the past.
Is there a hardware flaw in this board to allow for the same thing, or am I stuck with the pairing on this controller unless I get the PC adapter to remove it from the console it came from?
I recently worked on two controllers for someone. In this deal, I got to keep the newer controller that had an issue with the RB button (which has been temporarily fixed) in exchange for repairing the one this person killed by bricking the firmware (Model 1537).
There's a hardware flaw on the 1537 boards that allow me to "unpair" it by plugging it into a PC, staying away from the Xbox (areas with metal doors are preferred), which draws a blank as far as the controller is concerned. This will erase the pairing on the controller (or invalidate it to the point it doesn't try).
The controller is not behaving how I know it to behave when I do this, so I believe they may have fixed the flaw in the wireless module that caused this to work and the paring no longer erased as it did in the past.
Is there a hardware flaw in this board to allow for the same thing, or am I stuck with the pairing on this controller unless I get the PC adapter to remove it from the console it came from?