This printer is known to have formatter board problems. Don't bother buying one for it, as it will fail the same way. If you really want to keep it alive you're better off reflowing the old board. If this doesn't work, just send this thing to a recycling facility and get a stable printer. Even if you found a new formatter board, it would die the same way anyway. Refurbished formatter boards are usually reflowed boards from dead P2015's, or ones from units that didn't die this way. The reliability of a new and refurbished formatter board are both terrible.
TL;DR: These printers are junk. Every last one of them.
If you do decide to bin this thing, sell the toner. Someone probably has one that didn't go belly up this way. Either that or the networking died and he/she uses it locally anyway so it doesn't matter. You can probably sell the used toners to Cartridge World or another store that rebuilds toner cartridges.
-
When these things have bad formatter boards, it isn't hard to tell. The easiest way to tell is if the errors are changing, random or incorrect. This is the easiest way to spot a dead P2015.
+
When these things have bad formatter boards, it isn't hard to tell. The easiest way to tell is if the errors are changing, random or incorrect. This is the easiest way to spot a dead P2015 formatter board.
I have seen a few errors that correspond with dead units.
* Startup lockup problems(check for additional RAM with this one. Sometimes it's just bad RAM.)
* False toner errors that are fixed by removing and replacing the toner. This should not happen. If it's out of toner the light should stick. If I did this, I've warned the formatter board is bad and to be careful with the printer.
* False paper jams. This is often a dead giveaway.
* Startup issues in general. Another classic sign.
* Network printing problems. This doesn't mean the whole P2015 is dead, but the LAN port will probably never work again.
* Local print trouble. This means the printer is having a fatal problem beyond a dead LAN port.
With the problems yours is having, it sounds like a partially trashed formatter board. The fan may be plausible, but the engine error makes no sense. The motor is solid state and shouldn't die this soon. However, it is possible. The problem is fixable, but only do this on a personal printer. If this is a office one, trash it. When I wrote this, I said use a heatgun or oven. I'm going to nix the heatgun entirely and just suggest a oven reflow.
First, a [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IAcKZHqz0rc|video on removing the formatter board if you need visuals].
== Oven reflow ==
First, 2 warnings.
* '''DO NOT BUMP THE BOARD! You'll ruin it if the solder is molten!'''
* This won't last forever. Expect it to not work after 3-4 reflows. At this point, trash the printer.
* Step 1: Remove the formatter board. It lives on the side where the I/O is.
* Step 2: Take pictures of the wiring. '''The P2015 and P2015 d series models have different wiring schemes due to the d model having a duplexer. This includes the d, dn and x models.'''
* Remove the formatter board screws and cabling. You will see 4 or 5 screws holding it in.
* Find a way to lift the board in the oven. The best way to do this is coffee mugs or PC standoffs.
* '''Put liquid flux under ALL of the BGA chips. THIS IS CRITICAL TO A SOLID REFLOW!'''
* Preheat the oven at 450 for 5 minutes. Put the board in until the solder is molten, then remove it. This will probably take around 5-8 minutes. '''DO NOT BUMP IT AT THIS POINT! You will ruin it if you do!'''
* '''Clean the oven good after doing this.'''
* Put the board in the printer after cooling for 8-12 hours. See if this fixed the problem. It won't last forever, so be ready to repeat this.
These instructions are from [https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/133152/Why+does+my+HP+Laserjet+P2015dn+printer+not+print#answer133194|another question on this problem, BTW.]
This printer is known to have formatter board problems. Don't bother buying one for it, as it will fail the same way. If you really want to keep it alive you're better off reflowing the old board. If this doesn't work, just send this thing to a recycling facility and get a stable printer. Even if you found a new formatter board, it would die the same way anyway. Refurbished formatter boards are usually reflowed boards from dead P2015's, or ones from units that didn't die this way. The reliability of a new and refurbished formatter board are both terrible.
TL;DR: These printers are junk. Every last one of them.
If you do decide to bin this thing, sell the toner. Someone probably has one that didn't go belly up this way. Either that or the networking died and he/she uses it locally anyway so it doesn't matter. You can probably sell the used toners to Cartridge World or another store that rebuilds toner cartridges.
-
When these things have formatter boards, it isn't hard to tell. The easiest way to tell is if the errors are changing, random or incorrect. This is the easiest way to spot a dead P2015.
+
When these things have bad formatter boards, it isn't hard to tell. The easiest way to tell is if the errors are changing, random or incorrect. This is the easiest way to spot a dead P2015.
I have seen a few errors that correspond with dead units.
* Startup lockup problems(check for additional RAM with this one. Sometimes it's just bad RAM.)
* False toner errors that are fixed by removing and replacing the toner. This should not happen. If it's out of toner the light should stick. If I did this, I've warned the formatter board is bad and to be careful with the printer.
* False paper jams. This is often a dead giveaway.
* Startup issues in general. Another classic sign.
* Network printing problems. This doesn't mean the whole P2015 is dead, but the LAN port will probably never work again.
* Local print trouble. This means the printer is having a fatal problem beyond a dead LAN port.
With the problems yours is having, it sounds like a partially trashed formatter board. The fan may be plausible, but the engine error makes no sense. The motor is solid state and shouldn't die this soon. However, it is possible. The problem is fixable, but only do this on a personal printer. If this is a office one, trash it. When I wrote this, I said use a heatgun or oven. I'm going to nix the heatgun entirely and just suggest a oven reflow.
First, a [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IAcKZHqz0rc|video on removing the formatter board if you need visuals].
== Oven reflow ==
First, 2 warnings.
* '''DO NOT BUMP THE BOARD! You'll ruin it if the solder is molten!'''
* This won't last forever. Expect it to not work after 3-4 reflows. At this point, trash the printer.
* Step 1: Remove the formatter board. It lives on the side where the I/O is.
* Step 2: Take pictures of the wiring. '''The P2015 and P2015 d series models have different wiring schemes due to the d model having a duplexer. This includes the d, dn and x models.'''
* Remove the formatter board screws and cabling. You will see 4 or 5 screws holding it in.
* Find a way to lift the board in the oven. The best way to do this is coffee mugs or PC standoffs.
* '''Put liquid flux under ALL of the BGA chips. THIS IS CRITICAL TO A SOLID REFLOW!'''
* Preheat the oven at 450 for 5 minutes. Put the board in until the solder is molten, then remove it. This will probably take around 5-8 minutes. '''DO NOT BUMP IT AT THIS POINT! You will ruin it if you do!'''
* '''Clean the oven good after doing this.'''
* Put the board in the printer after cooling for 8-12 hours. See if this fixed the problem. It won't last forever, so be ready to repeat this.
These instructions are from [https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/133152/Why+does+my+HP+Laserjet+P2015dn+printer+not+print#answer133194|another question on this problem, BTW.]
This printer is known to have formatter board problems. Don't bother buying one for it, as it will fail the same way. If you really want to keep it alive you're better off reflowing the old board. If this doesn't work, just send this thing to a recycling facility and get a stable printer. Even if you found a new formatter board, it would die the same way anyway. Refurbished formatter boards are usually reflowed boards from dead P2015's, or ones from units that didn't die this way. The reliability of a new and refurbished formatter board are both terrible.
-
TL;DR: These printers are junk.
+
+
TL;DR: These printers are junk. Every last one of them.
If you do decide to bin this thing, sell the toner. Someone probably has one that didn't go belly up this way. Either that or the networking died and he/she uses it locally anyway so it doesn't matter. You can probably sell the used toners to Cartridge World or another store that rebuilds toner cartridges.
When these things have formatter boards, it isn't hard to tell. The easiest way to tell is if the errors are changing, random or incorrect. This is the easiest way to spot a dead P2015.
I have seen a few errors that correspond with dead units.
* Startup lockup problems(check for additional RAM with this one. Sometimes it's just bad RAM.)
* False toner errors that are fixed by removing and replacing the toner. This should not happen. If it's out of toner the light should stick. If I did this, I've warned the formatter board is bad and to be careful with the printer.
* False paper jams. This is often a dead giveaway.
* Startup issues in general. Another classic sign.
* Network printing problems. This doesn't mean the whole P2015 is dead, but the LAN port will probably never work again.
* Local print trouble. This means the printer is having a fatal problem beyond a dead LAN port.
With the problems yours is having, it sounds like a partially trashed formatter board. The fan may be plausible, but the engine error makes no sense. The motor is solid state and shouldn't die this soon. However, it is possible. The problem is fixable, but only do this on a personal printer. If this is a office one, trash it. When I wrote this, I said use a heatgun or oven. I'm going to nix the heatgun entirely and just suggest a oven reflow.
First, a [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IAcKZHqz0rc|video on removing the formatter board if you need visuals].
== Oven reflow ==
First, 2 warnings.
* '''DO NOT BUMP THE BOARD! You'll ruin it if the solder is molten!'''
* This won't last forever. Expect it to not work after 3-4 reflows. At this point, trash the printer.
* Step 1: Remove the formatter board. It lives on the side where the I/O is.
* Step 2: Take pictures of the wiring. '''The P2015 and P2015 d series models have different wiring schemes due to the d model having a duplexer. This includes the d, dn and x models.'''
* Remove the formatter board screws and cabling. You will see 4 or 5 screws holding it in.
* Find a way to lift the board in the oven. The best way to do this is coffee mugs or PC standoffs.
* '''Put liquid flux under ALL of the BGA chips. THIS IS CRITICAL TO A SOLID REFLOW!'''
* Preheat the oven at 450 for 5 minutes. Put the board in until the solder is molten, then remove it. This will probably take around 5-8 minutes. '''DO NOT BUMP IT AT THIS POINT! You will ruin it if you do!'''
* '''Clean the oven good after doing this.'''
* Put the board in the printer after cooling for 8-12 hours. See if this fixed the problem. It won't last forever, so be ready to repeat this.
These instructions are from [https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/133152/Why+does+my+HP+Laserjet+P2015dn+printer+not+print#answer133194|another question on this problem, BTW.]
This printer is known to have formatter board problems. Don't bother buying one for it, as it will fail the same way. If you really want to keep it alive you're better off reflowing the old board. If this doesn't work, just send this thing to a recycling facility and get a stable printer. Even if you found a new formatter board, it would die the same way anyway. Refurbished formatter boards are usually reflowed boards from dead P2015's, or ones from units that didn't die this way. The reliability of a new and refurbished formatter board are both terrible.
-
If you do decide to bin this thing, sell the toner. Someone probably has one that didn't go belly up this way. Either that or the networking died and he/she uses it locally anyway so it doesn't matter. You can probably sell the used toners to Cartridge World or another store that rebuilds toner cartridges.
+
This printer is known to have formatter board problems. Don't bother buying one for it, as it will fail the same way. If you really want to keep it alive you're better off reflowing the old board. If this doesn't work, just send this thing to a recycling facility and get a stable printer. Even if you found a new formatter board, it would die the same way anyway. Refurbished formatter boards are usually reflowed boards from dead P2015's, or ones from units that didn't die this way. The reliability of a new and refurbished formatter board are both terrible.
+
TL;DR: These printers are junk.
-
When these things have formatter boards, it isn't hard to tell. The easiest way to tell is if the errors are changing, random or incorrect. This is the easiest way to spot a dead P2015.
+
If you do decide to bin this thing, sell the toner. Someone probably has one that didn't go belly up this way. Either that or the networking died and he/she uses it locally anyway so it doesn't matter. You can probably sell the used toners to Cartridge World or another store that rebuilds toner cartridges.
+
+
When these things have formatter boards, it isn't hard to tell. The easiest way to tell is if the errors are changing, random or incorrect. This is the easiest way to spot a dead P2015.
+
I have seen a few errors that correspond with dead units.
+
* Startup lockup problems(check for additional RAM with this one. Sometimes it's just bad RAM.)
* False toner errors that are fixed by removing and replacing the toner. This should not happen. If it's out of toner the light should stick. If I did this, I've warned the formatter board is bad and to be careful with the printer.
* False paper jams. This is often a dead giveaway.
* Startup issues in general. Another classic sign.
* Network printing problems. This doesn't mean the whole P2015 is dead, but the LAN port will probably never work again.
* Local print trouble. This means the printer is having a fatal problem beyond a dead LAN port.
-
With the problems yours is having, it sounds like a partially trashed formatter board. The fan may be plausible, but the engine error makes no sense. The motor is solid state and shouldn't die this soon. However, it is possible. The problem is fixable, but only do this on a personal printer. If this is a office one, trash it. When I wrote this, I said use a heatgun or oven. I'm going to nix the heatgun entirely and just suggest a oven reflow.
+
With the problems yours is having, it sounds like a partially trashed formatter board. The fan may be plausible, but the engine error makes no sense. The motor is solid state and shouldn't die this soon. However, it is possible. The problem is fixable, but only do this on a personal printer. If this is a office one, trash it. When I wrote this, I said use a heatgun or oven. I'm going to nix the heatgun entirely and just suggest a oven reflow.
First, a [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IAcKZHqz0rc|video on removing the formatter board if you need visuals].
== Oven reflow ==
First, 2 warnings.
+
* '''DO NOT BUMP THE BOARD! You'll ruin it if the solder is molten!'''
* This won't last forever. Expect it to not work after 3-4 reflows. At this point, trash the printer.
* Step 1: Remove the formatter board. It lives on the side where the I/O is.
* Step 2: Take pictures of the wiring. '''The P2015 and P2015 d series models have different wiring schemes due to the d model having a duplexer. This includes the d, dn and x models.'''
* Remove the formatter board screws and cabling. You will see 4 or 5 screws holding it in.
* Find a way to lift the board in the oven. The best way to do this is coffee mugs or PC standoffs.
* '''Put liquid flux under ALL of the BGA chips. THIS IS CRITICAL TO A SOLID REFLOW!'''
* Preheat the oven at 450 for 5 minutes. Put the board in until the solder is molten, then remove it. This will probably take around 5-8 minutes. '''DO NOT BUMP IT AT THIS POINT! You will ruin it if you do!'''
* '''Clean the oven good after doing this.'''
* Put the board in the printer after cooling for 8-12 hours. See if this fixed the problem. It won't last forever, so be ready to repeat this.
-
These instructions are from [https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/133152/Why+does+my+HP+Laserjet+P2015dn+printer+not+print#answer133194|another question on this problem, BTW.]
The formatter boards are notorious for going bad in these printers, thus I would not buy a formatter board if you can help it due to the failure rate though I would try and reflow it if you insist on using the printer longer, and if it fails, you may be better writing it off because the chance of getting a formatter board new is slim, but you can also try and find a refurbished formatter board for it as those seem more reliable then the HP OEM Formatter Board; if you recycle the unit, you can always sell your toners you have not used yet, and maybe even the used toner from the printer if you wanted to to make some space and make sure the toners for these go to people who have good P2015 printers
+
This printer is known to have formatter board problems. Don't bother buying one for it, as it will fail the same way. If you really want to keep it alive you're better off reflowing the old board. If this doesn't work, just send this thing to a recycling facility and get a stable printer. Even if you found a new formatter board, it would die the same way anyway. Refurbished formatter boards are usually reflowed boards from dead P2015's, or ones from units that didn't die this way. The reliability of a new and refurbished formatter board are both terrible.
+
If you do decide to bin this thing, sell the toner. Someone probably has one that didn't go belly up this way. Either that or the networking died and he/she uses it locally anyway so it doesn't matter. You can probably sell the used toners to Cartridge World or another store that rebuilds toner cartridges.
-
When formatter boards go as I have seen them go in my school, they can put out random errors, false paper jams, lock at startup, false toner errors at startup, startup issues, network issues, printing over the network issues, and even have trouble printing from the computers at time, and yours is also something I have seen happen too; I have even been able to remove the toner on these things to convince them to work a little longer when some people are desperate for a quick fix to the problem with these printers, but I forewarn them not to abuse it, because the printer is having nasty issues
+
When these things have formatter boards, it isn't hard to tell. The easiest way to tell is if the errors are changing, random or incorrect. This is the easiest way to spot a dead P2015.
+
I have seen a few errors that correspond with dead units.
+
* Startup lockup problems(check for additional RAM with this one. Sometimes it's just bad RAM.)
+
* False toner errors that are fixed by removing and replacing the toner. This should not happen. If it's out of toner the light should stick. If I did this, I've warned the formatter board is bad and to be careful with the printer.
+
* False paper jams. This is often a dead giveaway.
+
* Startup issues in general. Another classic sign.
+
* Network printing problems. This doesn't mean the whole P2015 is dead, but the LAN port will probably never work again.
+
* Local print trouble. This means the printer is having a fatal problem beyond a dead LAN port.
-
Yours has a failing formatter board, but not entirely dead formatter board as is so common with the P2015, so it's not a fan or engine error, but the formatter board
-
There's 2 ways to do this, and I will go over both
+
With the problems yours is having, it sounds like a partially trashed formatter board. The fan may be plausible, but the engine error makes no sense. The motor is solid state and shouldn't die this soon. However, it is possible. The problem is fixable, but only do this on a personal printer. If this is a office one, trash it. When I wrote this, I said use a heatgun or oven. I'm going to nix the heatgun entirely and just suggest a oven reflow.
-
here's how to remove the formatter board
+
First, a [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IAcKZHqz0rc|video on removing the formatter board if you need visuals].
-
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IAcKZHqz0rc
+
== Oven reflow ==
-
== heatgun ==
+
First, 2 warnings.
+
* '''DO NOT BUMP THE BOARD! You'll ruin it if the solder is molten!'''
+
* This won't last forever. Expect it to not work after 3-4 reflows. At this point, trash the printer.
-
remove the plastic sheet over the memory slot to avoid melting it, and store this away safely
+
* Step 1: Remove the formatter board. It lives on the side where the I/O is.
+
* Step 2: Take pictures of the wiring. '''The P2015 and P2015 d series models have different wiring schemes due to the d model having a duplexer. This includes the d, dn and x models.'''
+
* Remove the formatter board screws and cabling. You will see 4 or 5 screws holding it in.
+
* Find a way to lift the board in the oven. The best way to do this is coffee mugs or PC standoffs.
+
* '''Put liquid flux under ALL of the BGA chips. THIS IS CRITICAL TO A SOLID REFLOW!'''
+
* Preheat the oven at 450 for 5 minutes. Put the board in until the solder is molten, then remove it. This will probably take around 5-8 minutes. '''DO NOT BUMP IT AT THIS POINT! You will ruin it if you do!'''
+
* '''Clean the oven good after doing this.'''
+
* Put the board in the printer after cooling for 8-12 hours. See if this fixed the problem. It won't last forever, so be ready to repeat this.
-
get a heatgun and heat it up to 350 or 400 degrees, but I would go with 400 degrees due to the ROHS compliant solder on the board
-
heat the back up for 30 seconds, moving across the whole back to preheat the board
-
-
circulate the heatgun over the top side of the formatter board for a minute or two
-
-
'''do not bump the board while cooling, you may ruin the formatter board'''
-
-
let it cool for 10-30 minutes, and reinstall it in the printer, and see if it works
-
-
== oven ==
-
-
put the fomatter board on something like tinfoil balls, or if you work on computers and custom build, motherboard standoffs floating around
-
-
This method seems to work more often then the heatgun method to fix it
-
-
remove the plastic memory sheet from the board
-
-
preheat the oven at 350-400 degrees for 5 minutes and let the board bake for 3-5 minutes and then take it out of the oven
-
-
'''do not bump the board while the solder is liquified'''
-
-
let it cool for 30 minutes to a hour
-
-
replace the plastic sheet and try it in the printer
-
-
'''This procedure will only work so many times, and the more it's done, the quicker you need to reflow it every time, so use it knowing it will not work forever to solve it, just a few times and that's it, then you need a new printer or formatter board'''
+
These instructions are from [https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/133152/Why+does+my+HP+Laserjet+P2015dn+printer+not+print#answer133194|another question on this problem, BTW.]
The formatter boards are notorious for going bad in these printers, thus I would not buy a formatter board if you can help it due to the failure rate though I would try and reflow it if you insist on using the printer longer, and if it fails, you may be better writing it off because the chance of getting a formatter board new is slim, but you can also try and find a refurbished formatter board for it as those seem more reliable then the HP OEM Formatter Board; if you recycle the unit, you can always sell your toners you have not used yet, and maybe even the used toner from the printer if you wanted to to make some space and make sure the toners for these go to people who have good P2015 printers
-
When formatter boards go as I have seen them go in my school, they can put out random errors, false paper jams, lock at startup, false toner errors at startup, startup issues, network issues, printing over the network issues, and even have trouble printing from the computers at time(print from computer issues is driver or hardware, so it's a 50/50), and yours is also something I have seen happen too; I have even been able to remove the toner on these things to convince them to work a little longer when some people are desperate for a quick fix to the problem with these printers, but I forwarn them not to abuse it, because the printer is having nasty issues
+
When formatter boards go as I have seen them go in my school, they can put out random errors, false paper jams, lock at startup, false toner errors at startup, startup issues, network issues, printing over the network issues, and even have trouble printing from the computers at time, and yours is also something I have seen happen too; I have even been able to remove the toner on these things to convince them to work a little longer when some people are desperate for a quick fix to the problem with these printers, but I forewarn them not to abuse it, because the printer is having nasty issues
-
Yours has a failing formatter board, but not entirely dead formatter board as is so common with the P2015, so it's not a fan or engine error, but the formatter board is going bad
-
+
Yours has a failing formatter board, but not entirely dead formatter board as is so common with the P2015, so it's not a fan or engine error, but the formatter board
There's 2 ways to do this, and I will go over both
here's how to remove the formatter board
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IAcKZHqz0rc
== heatgun ==
remove the plastic sheet over the memory slot to avoid melting it, and store this away safely
get a heatgun and heat it up to 350 or 400 degrees, but I would go with 400 degrees due to the ROHS compliant solder on the board
heat the back up for 30 seconds, moving across the whole back to preheat the board
circulate the heatgun over the top side of the formatter board for a minute or two
'''do not bump the board while cooling, you may ruin the formatter board'''
let it cool for 10-30 minutes, and reinstall it in the printer, and see if it works
== oven ==
put the fomatter board on something like tinfoil balls, or if you work on computers and custom build, motherboard standoffs floating around
This method seems to work more often then the heatgun method to fix it
remove the plastic memory sheet from the board
preheat the oven at 350-400 degrees for 5 minutes and let the board bake for 3-5 minutes and then take it out of the oven
'''do not bump the board while the solder is liquified'''
let it cool for 30 minutes to a hour
replace the plastic sheet and try it in the printer
'''This procedure will only work so many times, and the more it's done, the quicker you need to reflow it every time, so use it knowing it will not work forever to solve it, just a few times and that's it, then you need a new printer or formatter board'''
The formatter boards are notorious for going bad in these printers, thus I would not buy a formatter board if you can help it due to the failure rate though I would try and reflow it if you insist on using the printer longer, and if it fails, you may be better writing it off because the chance of getting a formatter board new is slim, but you can also try and find a refurbished formatter board for it as those seem more reliable then the HP OEM Formatter Board; if you recycle the unit, you can always sell your toners you have not used yet, and maybe even the used toner from the printer if you wanted too to make some space and make sure the toners for these go to people who have good P2015 printers
+
The formatter boards are notorious for going bad in these printers, thus I would not buy a formatter board if you can help it due to the failure rate though I would try and reflow it if you insist on using the printer longer, and if it fails, you may be better writing it off because the chance of getting a formatter board new is slim, but you can also try and find a refurbished formatter board for it as those seem more reliable then the HP OEM Formatter Board; if you recycle the unit, you can always sell your toners you have not used yet, and maybe even the used toner from the printer if you wanted to to make some space and make sure the toners for these go to people who have good P2015 printers
When formatter boards go as I have seen them go in my school, they can put out random errors, false paper jams, lock at startup, false toner errors at startup, startup issues, network issues, printing over the network issues, and even have trouble printing from the computers at time(print from computer issues is driver or hardware, so it's a 50/50), and yours is also something I have seen happen too; I have even been able to remove the toner on these things to convince them to work a little longer when some people are desperate for a quick fix to the problem with these printers, but I forwarn them not to abuse it, because the printer is having nasty issues
Yours has a failing formatter board, but not entirely dead formatter board as is so common with the P2015, so it's not a fan or engine error, but the formatter board is going bad
There's 2 ways to do this, and I will go over both
here's how to remove the formatter board
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IAcKZHqz0rc
== heatgun ==
remove the plastic sheet over the memory slot to avoid melting it, and store this away safely
get a heatgun and heat it up to 350 or 400 degrees, but I would go with 400 degrees due to the ROHS compliant solder on the board
heat the back up for 30 seconds, moving across the whole back to preheat the board
circulate the heatgun over the top side of the formatter board for a minute or two
'''do not bump the board while cooling, you may ruin the formatter board'''
let it cool for 10-30 minutes, and reinstall it in the printer, and see if it works
== oven ==
put the fomatter board on something like tinfoil balls, or if you work on computers and custom build, motherboard standoffs floating around
This method seems to work more often then the heatgun method to fix it
remove the plastic memory sheet from the board
preheat the oven at 350-400 degrees for 5 minutes and let the board bake for 3-5 minutes and then take it out of the oven
'''do not bump the board while the solder is liquified'''
let it cool for 30 minutes to a hour
replace the plastic sheet and try it in the printer
'''This procedure will only work so many times, and the more it's done, the quicker you need to reflow it every time, so use it knowing it will not work forever to solve it, just a few times and that's it, then you need a new printer or formatter board'''
The formatter boards are notorious for going bad in these printers, I would not buy a formatter board if you can help it due to the failure rate, tough I would try and reflow it if you insist on using the printer longer, and if it fails, consider writing it off because the chance of getting a formatter board new is slim, but you can try and find a refurbished formatter board for it as those seem more reliable then the hp OEM one; you can always sell unused toner on eBay and say the printer failed if a reflow doesn't help you out
+
The formatter boards are notorious for going bad in these printers, thus I would not buy a formatter board if you can help it due to the failure rate though I would try and reflow it if you insist on using the printer longer, and if it fails, you may be better writing it off because the chance of getting a formatter board new is slim, but you can also try and find a refurbished formatter board for it as those seem more reliable then the HP OEM Formatter Board; if you recycle the unit, you can always sell your toners you have not used yet, and maybe even the used toner from the printer if you wanted too to make some space and make sure the toners for these go to people who have good P2015 printers
+
When formatter boards go as I have seen them go in my school, they can put out random errors, false paper jams, lock at startup, false toner errors at startup, startup issues, network issues, printing over the network issues, and even have trouble printing from the computers at time(print from computer issues is driver or hardware, so it's a 50/50), and yours is also something I have seen happen too; I have even been able to remove the toner on these things to convince them to work a little longer when some people are desperate for a quick fix to the problem with these printers, but I forwarn them not to abuse it, because the printer is having nasty issues
-
Yours has the failing formatter board, but not entirely dead formatter board symptoms on these printers, not a fan or engine error, because your formatter board is failing and it's putting those errors out because the formatter board is bad, not engine or fan errors
+
Yours has a failing formatter board, but not entirely dead formatter board as is so common with the P2015, so it's not a fan or engine error, but the formatter board is going bad
There's 2 ways to do this, and I will go over both
here's how to remove the formatter board
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IAcKZHqz0rc
== heatgun ==
remove the plastic sheet over the memory slot to avoid melting it, and store this away safely
get a heatgun and heat it up to 350 or 400 degrees, but I would go with 400 degrees due to the ROHS compliant solder on the board
heat the back up for 30 seconds, moving across the whole back to preheat the board
circulate the heatgun over the top side of the formatter board for a minute or two
'''do not bump the board while cooling, you may ruin the formatter board'''
let it cool for 10-30 minutes, and reinstall it in the printer, and see if it works
== oven ==
put the fomatter board on something like tinfoil balls, or if you work on computers and custom build, motherboard standoffs floating around
This method seems to work more often then the heatgun method to fix it
remove the plastic memory sheet from the board
preheat the oven at 350-400 degrees for 5 minutes and let the board bake for 3-5 minutes and then take it out of the oven
'''do not bump the board while the solder is liquified'''
let it cool for 30 minutes to a hour
replace the plastic sheet and try it in the printer
'''This procedure will only work so many times, and the more it's done, the quicker you need to reflow it every time, so use it knowing it will not work forever to solve it, just a few times and that's it, then you need a new printer or formatter board'''
The formatter boards are notorious for going bad in these printers, I would not buy a formatter board if you can help it due to the failure rate, tough I would try and reflow it if you insist on using the printer longer, and if it fails, consider writing it off because the chance of getting a formatter board new is slim, but you can try and find a refurbished formatter board for it as those seem more reliable then the hp OEM one; you can always sell unused toner on eBay and say the printer failed if you opt not to fix it
-
+
The formatter boards are notorious for going bad in these printers, I would not buy a formatter board if you can help it due to the failure rate, tough I would try and reflow it if you insist on using the printer longer, and if it fails, consider writing it off because the chance of getting a formatter board new is slim, but you can try and find a refurbished formatter board for it as those seem more reliable then the hp OEM one; you can always sell unused toner on eBay and say the printer failed if a reflow doesn't help you out
When formatter boards go as I have seen them go in my school, they can put out random errors, false paper jams, lock at startup, false toner errors at startup, startup issues, network issues, printing over the network issues, and even have trouble printing from the computers at time(print from computer issues is driver or hardware, so it's a 50/50), and yours is also something I have seen happen too; I have even been able to remove the toner on these things to convince them to work a little longer when some people are desperate for a quick fix to the problem with these printers, but I forwarn them not to abuse it, because the printer is having nasty issues
Yours has the failing formatter board, but not entirely dead formatter board symptoms on these printers, not a fan or engine error, because your formatter board is failing and it's putting those errors out because the formatter board is bad, not engine or fan errors
There's 2 ways to do this, and I will go over both
here's how to remove the formatter board
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IAcKZHqz0rc
== heatgun ==
remove the plastic sheet over the memory slot to avoid melting it, and store this away safely
get a heatgun and heat it up to 350 or 400 degrees, but I would go with 400 degrees due to the ROHS compliant solder on the board
heat the back up for 30 seconds, moving across the whole back to preheat the board
circulate the heatgun over the top side of the formatter board for a minute or two
'''do not bump the board while cooling, you may ruin the formatter board'''
let it cool for 10-30 minutes, and reinstall it in the printer, and see if it works
== oven ==
put the fomatter board on something like tinfoil balls, or if you work on computers and custom build, motherboard standoffs floating around
This method seems to work more often then the heatgun method to fix it
remove the plastic memory sheet from the board
preheat the oven at 350-400 degrees for 5 minutes and let the board bake for 3-5 minutes and then take it out of the oven
'''do not bump the board while the solder is liquified'''
let it cool for 30 minutes to a hour
replace the plastic sheet and try it in the printer
'''This procedure will only work so many times, and the more it's done, the quicker you need to reflow it every time, so use it knowing it will not work forever to solve it, just a few times and that's it, then you need a new printer or formatter board'''
The formatter boards are notorious for going bad in these printers, I would not buy a formatter board if you can help it due to the failure rate, tough I would try and reflow it if you insist on using the printer longer, and if it fails, consider writing it off because the chance of getting a formatter board new is slim, but you can try and find a refurbished formatter board for it as those seem more reliable then the hp OEM one; you can always sell unused toner on eBay and say the printer failed if you opt not to fix it
When formatter boards go as I have seen them go in my school, they can put out random errors, false paper jams, lock at startup, false toner errors at startup, startup issues, network issues, printing over the network issues, and even have trouble printing from the computers at time(print from computer issues is driver or hardware, so it's a 50/50), and yours is also something I have seen happen too; I have even been able to remove the toner on these things to convince them to work a little longer when some people are desperate for a quick fix to the problem with these printers, but I forwarn them not to abuse it, because the printer is having nasty issues
-
Yours has the failing, but not entirely dead formatter board symptoms on these printer, not a fan or engine error, because your formatter board is failing and it's putting those errors out because the formatter board is bad, not engine or fan errors
+
Yours has the failing formatter board, but not entirely dead formatter board symptoms on these printers, not a fan or engine error, because your formatter board is failing and it's putting those errors out because the formatter board is bad, not engine or fan errors
There's 2 ways to do this, and I will go over both
here's how to remove the formatter board
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IAcKZHqz0rc
== heatgun ==
remove the plastic sheet over the memory slot to avoid melting it, and store this away safely
get a heatgun and heat it up to 350 or 400 degrees, but I would go with 400 degrees due to the ROHS compliant solder on the board
heat the back up for 30 seconds, moving across the whole back to preheat the board
circulate the heatgun over the top side of the formatter board for a minute or two
'''do not bump the board while cooling, you may ruin the formatter board'''
let it cool for 10-30 minutes, and reinstall it in the printer, and see if it works
== oven ==
put the fomatter board on something like tinfoil balls, or if you work on computers and custom build, motherboard standoffs floating around
This method seems to work more often then the heatgun method to fix it
remove the plastic memory sheet from the board
preheat the oven at 350-400 degrees for 5 minutes and let the board bake for 3-5 minutes and then take it out of the oven
'''do not bump the board while the solder is liquified'''
let it cool for 30 minutes to a hour
replace the plastic sheet and try it in the printer
'''This procedure will only work so many times, and the more it's done, the quicker you need to reflow it every time, so use it knowing it will not work forever to solve it, just a few times and that's it, then you need a new printer or formatter board'''
The formatter boards are notorious for going bad in these printers, I would not buy a formatter board if you can help it due to the failure rate, tough I would try and reflow it if you insist on using the printer longer, and if it fails, consider writing it off because the chance of getting a formatter board new is slim, but you can try and find a refurbished formatter board for it as those seem more reliable then the hp OEM one; you can always sell unused toner on eBay and say the printer failed if you opt not to fix it
When formatter boards go as I have seen them go in my school, they can put out random errors, false paper jams, lock at startup, false toner errors at startup, startup issues, network issues, printing over the network issues, and even have trouble printing from the computers at time(print from computer issues is driver or hardware, so it's a 50/50), and yours is also something I have seen happen too; I have even been able to remove the toner on these things to convince them to work a little longer when some people are desperate for a quick fix to the problem with these printers, but I forwarn them not to abuse it, because the printer is having nasty issues
Yours has the failing, but not entirely dead formatter board symptoms on these printer, not a fan or engine error, because your formatter board is failing and it's putting those errors out because the formatter board is bad, not engine or fan errors
There's 2 ways to do this, and I will go over both
here's how to remove the formatter board
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IAcKZHqz0rc
== heatgun ==
remove the plastic sheet over the memory slot to avoid melting it, and store this away safely
get a heatgun and heat it up to 350 or 400 degrees, but I would go with 400 degrees due to the ROHS compliant solder on the board
heat the back up for 30 seconds, moving across the whole back to preheat the board
circulate the heatgun over the top side of the formatter board for a minute or two
'''do not bump the board while cooling, you may ruin the formatter board'''
let it cool for 10-30 minutes, and reinstall it in the printer, and see if it works
== oven ==
put the fomatter board on something like tinfoil balls, or if you work on computers and custom build, motherboard standoffs floating around
This method seems to work more often then the heatgun method to fix it
remove the plastic memory sheet from the board
preheat the oven at 350-400 degrees for 5 minutes and let the board bake for 3-5 minutes and then take it out of the oven
'''do not bump the board while the solder is liquified'''
let it cool for 30 minutes to a hour
replace the plastic sheet and try it in the printer
-
This procedure will only work so many times, and the more it's done, the quicker you need to reflow it every time, so use it knowing it will not work forever to solve it, just a few times and that's it
+
'''This procedure will only work so many times, and the more it's done, the quicker you need to reflow it every time, so use it knowing it will not work forever to solve it, just a few times and that's it, then you need a new printer or formatter board'''
The formatter boards are notorious for going bad in these printers, I would not buy a formatter board if you can help it due to the failure rate, tough I would try and reflow it if you insist on using the printer longer, and if it fails, consider writing it off because the chance of getting a formatter board new is slim, but you can try and find a refurbished formatter board for it as those seem more reliable then the hp OEM one; you can always sell unused toner on eBay and say the printer failed if you opt not to fix it
When formatter boards go as I have seen them go in my school, they can put out random errors, false paper jams, lock at startup, false toner errors at startup, startup issues, network issues, printing over the network issues, and even have trouble printing from the computers at time(print from computer issues is driver or hardware, so it's a 50/50), and yours is also something I have seen happen too; I have even been able to remove the toner on these things to convince them to work a little longer when some people are desperate for a quick fix to the problem with these printers, but I forwarn them not to abuse it, because the printer is having nasty issues
Yours has the failing, but not entirely dead formatter board symptoms on these printer, not a fan or engine error, because your formatter board is failing and it's putting those errors out because the formatter board is bad, not engine or fan errors
There's 2 ways to do this, and I will go over both
here's how to remove the formatter board
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IAcKZHqz0rc
== heatgun ==
remove the plastic sheet over the memory slot to avoid melting it, and store this away safely
get a heatgun and heat it up to 350 or 400 degrees, but I would go with 400 degrees due to the ROHS compliant solder on the board
heat the back up for 30 seconds, moving across the whole back to preheat the board
circulate the heatgun over the top side of the formatter board for a minute or two
'''do not bump the board while cooling, you may ruin the formatter board'''
let it cool for 10-30 minutes, and reinstall it in the printer, and see if it works
== oven ==
put the fomatter board on something like tinfoil balls, or if you work on computers and custom build, motherboard standoffs floating around
This method seems to work more often then the heatgun method to fix it
remove the plastic memory sheet from the board
preheat the oven at 350-400 degrees for 5 minutes and let the board bake for 3-5 minutes and then take it out of the oven
'''do not bump the board while the solder is liquified'''
let it cool for 30 minutes to a hour
replace the plastic sheet and try it in the printer
+
+
This procedure will only work so many times, and the more it's done, the quicker you need to reflow it every time, so use it knowing it will not work forever to solve it, just a few times and that's it
The formatter boards are notorious for going bad in these printers, I would not buy a formatter board if you can help it due to the failure rate, tough I would try and reflow it if you insist on using the printer longer, and if it fails, consider writing it off because the chance of getting a formatter board new is slim, but you can try and find a refurbished formatter board for it as those seem more reliable then the hp OEM one; you can always sell unused toner on eBay and say the printer failed if you opt not to fix it
-
When formatter boards go as I have seen them go in my school, they can put out random errors, false paper jams, lock at startup, false toner errors at startup, startup issues, network issues, printing over the network issues, and even have trouble printing from the computers at time(print from computer issues is driver or hardware, so it's a 50/50), and yours is also something I have seen happen too
+
When formatter boards go as I have seen them go in my school, they can put out random errors, false paper jams, lock at startup, false toner errors at startup, startup issues, network issues, printing over the network issues, and even have trouble printing from the computers at time(print from computer issues is driver or hardware, so it's a 50/50), and yours is also something I have seen happen too; I have even been able to remove the toner on these things to convince them to work a little longer when some people are desperate for a quick fix to the problem with these printers, but I forwarn them not to abuse it, because the printer is having nasty issues
Yours has the failing, but not entirely dead formatter board symptoms on these printer, not a fan or engine error, because your formatter board is failing and it's putting those errors out because the formatter board is bad, not engine or fan errors
There's 2 ways to do this, and I will go over both
here's how to remove the formatter board
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IAcKZHqz0rc
== heatgun ==
remove the plastic sheet over the memory slot to avoid melting it, and store this away safely
get a heatgun and heat it up to 350 or 400 degrees, but I would go with 400 degrees due to the ROHS compliant solder on the board
heat the back up for 30 seconds, moving across the whole back to preheat the board
circulate the heatgun over the top side of the formatter board for a minute or two
'''do not bump the board while cooling, you may ruin the formatter board'''
let it cool for 10-30 minutes, and reinstall it in the printer, and see if it works
== oven ==
put the fomatter board on something like tinfoil balls, or if you work on computers and custom build, motherboard standoffs floating around
This method seems to work more often then the heatgun method to fix it
remove the plastic memory sheet from the board
preheat the oven at 350-400 degrees for 5 minutes and let the board bake for 3-5 minutes and then take it out of the oven
'''do not bump the board while the solder is liquified'''
let it cool for 30 minutes to a hour
replace the plastic sheet and try it in the printer
The formatter boards are notorious for going bad in these printers, I would not buy a formatter board if you can help it due to the failure rate, tough I would try and reflow it if you insist on using the printer longer, and if it fails, consider writing it off because the chance of getting a formatter board new is slim, but you can try and find a refurbished formatter board for it as those seem more reliable then the hp OEM one; you can always sell unused toner on eBay and say the printer failed
+
The formatter boards are notorious for going bad in these printers, I would not buy a formatter board if you can help it due to the failure rate, tough I would try and reflow it if you insist on using the printer longer, and if it fails, consider writing it off because the chance of getting a formatter board new is slim, but you can try and find a refurbished formatter board for it as those seem more reliable then the hp OEM one; you can always sell unused toner on eBay and say the printer failed if you opt not to fix it
When formatter boards go as I have seen them go in my school, they can put out random errors, false paper jams, lock at startup, false toner errors at startup, startup issues, network issues, printing over the network issues, and even have trouble printing from the computers at time(print from computer issues is driver or hardware, so it's a 50/50), and yours is also something I have seen happen too
Yours has the failing, but not entirely dead formatter board symptoms on these printer, not a fan or engine error, because your formatter board is failing and it's putting those errors out because the formatter board is bad, not engine or fan errors
There's 2 ways to do this, and I will go over both
here's how to remove the formatter board
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IAcKZHqz0rc
== heatgun ==
remove the plastic sheet over the memory slot to avoid melting it, and store this away safely
get a heatgun and heat it up to 350 or 400 degrees, but I would go with 400 degrees due to the ROHS compliant solder on the board
heat the back up for 30 seconds, moving across the whole back to preheat the board
circulate the heatgun over the top side of the formatter board for a minute or two
'''do not bump the board while cooling, you may ruin the formatter board'''
let it cool for 10-30 minutes, and reinstall it in the printer, and see if it works
== oven ==
put the fomatter board on something like tinfoil balls, or if you work on computers and custom build, motherboard standoffs floating around
This method seems to work more often then the heatgun method to fix it
remove the plastic memory sheet from the board
preheat the oven at 350-400 degrees for 5 minutes and let the board bake for 3-5 minutes and then take it out of the oven
'''do not bump the board while the solder is liquified'''
let it cool for 30 minutes to a hour
replace the plastic sheet and try it in the printer
The formatter boards are notorious for going bad in these printers, I would not buy a formatter board if you can help it due to the failure rate, tough I would try and reflow it if you insist on using the printer longer, and if it fails, consider writing it off because the chance of getting a formatter board new is slim, but you can try and find a refurbished formatter board for it as those seem more reliable then the hp OEM one
+
The formatter boards are notorious for going bad in these printers, I would not buy a formatter board if you can help it due to the failure rate, tough I would try and reflow it if you insist on using the printer longer, and if it fails, consider writing it off because the chance of getting a formatter board new is slim, but you can try and find a refurbished formatter board for it as those seem more reliable then the hp OEM one; you can always sell unused toner on eBay and say the printer failed
When formatter boards go as I have seen them go in my school, they can put out random errors, false paper jams, lock at startup, false toner errors at startup, startup issues, network issues, printing over the network issues, and even have trouble printing from the computers at time(print from computer issues is driver or hardware, so it's a 50/50), and yours is also something I have seen happen too
Yours has the failing, but not entirely dead formatter board symptoms on these printer, not a fan or engine error, because your formatter board is failing and it's putting those errors out because the formatter board is bad, not engine or fan errors
There's 2 ways to do this, and I will go over both
here's how to remove the formatter board
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IAcKZHqz0rc
== heatgun ==
remove the plastic sheet over the memory slot to avoid melting it, and store this away safely
get a heatgun and heat it up to 350 or 400 degrees, but I would go with 400 degrees due to the ROHS compliant solder on the board
heat the back up for 30 seconds, moving across the whole back to preheat the board
circulate the heatgun over the top side of the formatter board for a minute or two
'''do not bump the board while cooling, you may ruin the formatter board'''
let it cool for 10-30 minutes, and reinstall it in the printer, and see if it works
== oven ==
put the fomatter board on something like tinfoil balls, or if you work on computers and custom build, motherboard standoffs floating around
This method seems to work more often then the heatgun method to fix it
remove the plastic memory sheet from the board
preheat the oven at 350-400 degrees for 5 minutes and let the board bake for 3-5 minutes and then take it out of the oven
'''do not bump the board while the solder is liquified'''
let it cool for 30 minutes to a hour
replace the plastic sheet and try it in the printer
The formatter boards are notorious for going bad in these printers, I would not buy a formatter board if you can help it due to the failure rate, tough I would try and reflow it if you insist on using the printer longer, and if it fails, consider writing it off because the chance of getting a formatter board new is slim, but you can try and find a refurbished formatter board for it as those seem more reliable then the hp OEM one
-
When formatter boards go as I have seen them go in my school, they can put out random errors, false paper jams, lock at startup, false toner errors at startup, startup issues, network issues, printing over the network issues, and even have trouble printing from the computers at time(print from computer issues is driver or hardware, so it's a 50/50)
+
When formatter boards go as I have seen them go in my school, they can put out random errors, false paper jams, lock at startup, false toner errors at startup, startup issues, network issues, printing over the network issues, and even have trouble printing from the computers at time(print from computer issues is driver or hardware, so it's a 50/50), and yours is also something I have seen happen too
-
Yours has the dead formatter board symptoms on these printer, not fan or engine error, because your formatter board is failing and it's putting those errors out because the formatter board is bad
+
Yours has the failing, but not entirely dead formatter board symptoms on these printer, not a fan or engine error, because your formatter board is failing and it's putting those errors out because the formatter board is bad, not engine or fan errors
There's 2 ways to do this, and I will go over both
here's how to remove the formatter board
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IAcKZHqz0rc
== heatgun ==
remove the plastic sheet over the memory slot to avoid melting it, and store this away safely
get a heatgun and heat it up to 350 or 400 degrees, but I would go with 400 degrees due to the ROHS compliant solder on the board
heat the back up for 30 seconds, moving across the whole back to preheat the board
circulate the heatgun over the top side of the formatter board for a minute or two
'''do not bump the board while cooling, you may ruin the formatter board'''
let it cool for 10-30 minutes, and reinstall it in the printer, and see if it works
== oven ==
put the fomatter board on something like tinfoil balls, or if you work on computers and custom build, motherboard standoffs floating around
This method seems to work more often then the heatgun method to fix it
remove the plastic memory sheet from the board
preheat the oven at 350-400 degrees for 5 minutes and let the board bake for 3-5 minutes and then take it out of the oven
'''do not bump the board while the solder is liquified'''
let it cool for 30 minutes to a hour
replace the plastic sheet and try it in the printer
The formatter boards are notorious for going bad in these printers, I would not buy a formatter board if you can help it due to the failu rate, tough I would try and reflow it if you insist on using the printer longer, and if it fails, let it go, because the chance of getting a formatter board new or used is slim, or you can try and find a refurbished formatter board for it as those seem more reliable then the hp OEM one
+
The formatter boards are notorious for going bad in these printers, I would not buy a formatter board if you can help it due to the failure rate, tough I would try and reflow it if you insist on using the printer longer, and if it fails, consider writing it off because the chance of getting a formatter board new is slim, but you can try and find a refurbished formatter board for it as those seem more reliable then the hp OEM one
When formatter boards go as I have seen them go in my school, they can put out random errors, false paper jams, lock at startup, false toner errors at startup, startup issues, network issues, printing over the network issues, and even have trouble printing from the computers at time(print from computer issues is driver or hardware, so it's a 50/50)
Yours has the dead formatter board symptoms on these printer, not fan or engine error, because your formatter board is failing and it's putting those errors out because the formatter board is bad
There's 2 ways to do this, and I will go over both
here's how to remove the formatter board
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IAcKZHqz0rc
== heatgun ==
remove the plastic sheet over the memory slot to avoid melting it, and store this away safely
get a heatgun and heat it up to 350 or 400 degrees, but I would go with 400 degrees due to the ROHS compliant solder on the board
heat the back up for 30 seconds, moving across the whole back to preheat the board
circulate the heatgun over the top side of the formatter board for a minute or two
'''do not bump the board while cooling, you may ruin the formatter board'''
let it cool for 10-30 minutes, and reinstall it in the printer, and see if it works
== oven ==
put the fomatter board on something like tinfoil balls, or if you work on computers and custom build, motherboard standoffs floating around
-
This method seems to work more often then the heatgun method to fix it
+
This method seems to work more often then the heatgun method to fix it
remove the plastic memory sheet from the board
preheat the oven at 350-400 degrees for 5 minutes and let the board bake for 3-5 minutes and then take it out of the oven
'''do not bump the board while the solder is liquified'''
let it cool for 30 minutes to a hour
replace the plastic sheet and try it in the printer
The formatter boards are notorious for going bad in these printers, I would not buy a formatter board, I would reflow it if you insist on using the printer longer, and if it fails, let it go, because the chance of getting a formatter board new or used is slim
-
-
most I see online are bad
-
-
People don't sell printer parts often because nobody fixes them, so it may not be possible
+
The formatter boards are notorious for going bad in these printers, I would not buy a formatter board if you can help it due to the failu rate, tough I would try and reflow it if you insist on using the printer longer, and if it fails, let it go, because the chance of getting a formatter board new or used is slim, or you can try and find a refurbished formatter board for it as those seem more reliable then the hp OEM one
When formatter boards go as I have seen them go in my school, they can put out random errors, false paper jams, lock at startup, false toner errors at startup, startup issues, network issues, printing over the network issues, and even have trouble printing from the computers at time(print from computer issues is driver or hardware, so it's a 50/50)
-
I have not had a P2015 yet, and don't want one, so I do not know if the method below will work on all of them, but it's worth a shot being it's a loss as it is
-
Yours has the dead formatter board symptoms on these printer, not fan or engine error, because your formatter board is failing and it's putting those errors out because the formatter board is bad
-
There's 2 ways to do this, I will go over both
+
There's 2 ways to do this, and I will go over both
here's how to remove the formatter board
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IAcKZHqz0rc
== heatgun ==
remove the plastic sheet over the memory slot to avoid melting it, and store this away safely
get a heatgun and heat it up to 350 or 400 degrees, but I would go with 400 degrees due to the ROHS compliant solder on the board
heat the back up for 30 seconds, moving across the whole back to preheat the board
circulate the heatgun over the top side of the formatter board for a minute or two
'''do not bump the board while cooling, you may ruin the formatter board'''
let it cool for 10-30 minutes, and reinstall it in the printer, and see if it works
== oven ==
put the fomatter board on something like tinfoil balls, or if you work on computers and custom build, motherboard standoffs floating around
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This method seems to work more often then the heatgun method to fix it
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remove the plastic memory sheet from the board
preheat the oven at 350-400 degrees for 5 minutes and let the board bake for 3-5 minutes and then take it out of the oven
'''do not bump the board while the solder is liquified'''
let it cool for 30 minutes to a hour
replace the plastic sheet and try it in the printer
The formatter boards are notorious for going bad in these printers, I would not buy a formatter board, I would reflow it if you insist on using the printer longer, and if it fails, let it go, because the chance of getting a formatter board new or used is slim
most I see online are bad
People don't sell printer parts often because nobody fixes them, so it may not be possible
When formatter boards go as I have seen them go in my school, they can put out random errors, false paper jams, lock at startup, false toner errors at startup, startup issues, network issues, printing over the network issues, and even have trouble printing from the computers at time(print from computer issues is driver or hardware, so it's a 50/50)
I have not had a P2015 yet, and don't want one, so I do not know if the method below will work on all of them, but it's worth a shot being it's a loss as it is
Yours has the dead formatter board symptoms on these printer, not fan or engine error, because your formatter board is failing and it's putting those errors out because the formatter board is bad
There's 2 ways to do this, I will go over both
here's how to remove the formatter board
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IAcKZHqz0rc
== heatgun ==
remove the plastic sheet over the memory slot to avoid melting it, and store this away safely
get a heatgun and heat it up to 350 or 400 degrees, but I would go with 400 degrees due to the ROHS compliant solder on the board
heat the back up for 30 seconds, moving across the whole back to preheat the board
circulate the heatgun over the top side of the formatter board for a minute or two
'''do not bump the board while cooling, you may ruin the formatter board'''
let it cool for 10-30 minutes, and reinstall it in the printer, and see if it works
== oven ==
put the fomatter board on something like tinfoil balls, or if you work on computers and custom build, motherboard standoffs floating around
remove the plastic memory sheet from the board
preheat the oven at 350-400 degrees for 5 minutes and let the board bake for 3-5 minutes and then take it out of the oven
'''do not bump the board while the solder is liquified'''
let it cool for 30 minutes to a hour
replace the plastic sheet and try it in the printer