crwdns2862678:0crwdne2862678:0
crwdns2895503:0crwdne2895503:0
Saw Won’t Turn On
The saw won’t turn on when the battery is inserted.
The Battery isn’t charged
Charge it. If you’ve tried charging it and it didn’t charge, you can try cleaning off the battery and making sure it is properly installed in the saw. It may be necessary to clean the metal contacts located on top of the battery.
Battery is damaged or expired
Rechargeable batteries usually last around 2-3 years before needing replacement. Battery service life can be shortened by extreme temperatures, especially very hot temperatures; leaving the battery on the charger after full charge capacity is reached; and total number of charges on the battery. If your battery doesn’t hold a charge, it may be time to get a new battery.
Faulty Switch
The trigger switch on your saw is a common point of failure. Your saw uses a micro switch which can fail after lots of use. The switch should click when squeezing the trigger. Additionally, if the trigger no longer returns to the neutral position, the switch may have failed. You can use This Guide (INSERT GUIDE: Switch Assembly Guide) to inspect or replace the switch. If corrosion forms on the switch contacts, the switch may fail quicker, and it may be necessary to replace the switch. Moist or humid environments can cause corrosion to form.
Excessive Vibration
The saw vibrates excessively when in use.
Possible warped or damaged blade
If the saw vibrates excessively during operation, the saw blade may be warped or damaged. Inspect the blade for warping or damage. Using a warped or damaged blade is hazardous: replace a warped or damaged blade immediately.
Possible worn, warped, or damaged inner flange bushing
If the blade is in good condition, the inner flange bushing may be worn, warped, or damaged. Inspect to ensure no gouging, visual damage, or wearing of black factory finish. Lay blade side of bushing on a flat surface to ensure inner flange bushing is square. For more detail on this process, consult the Inner Flange Bushing Guide (INSERT GUIDE: Inner Flange Bushing Guide) If the inner flange bushing is worn, warped, or damaged, replace it using our guide.
Blade Lock Doesn’t Work
The blade lock does not immobilize the saw blade or does not return to its neutral position when released.
Lock mechanism is worn or damaged
If the blade lock button is pushed in but the blade will not stop rotating, it means that the blade stop has been broken or worn out on the inside and it is not able to grab or hold onto the shaft that the blade itself is put on. Replace the blade lock assembly using the Spindle Lock Assembly Guide (INSERT GUIDE: Spindle Lock Assembly Guide).
Lock mechanism does not push in freely or sticks in the locked position
If the blade lock will not push in, or has increased resistance while pushing the groves that the blade lock rides in might have some saw dust or other debris stuck in the groves. Take the spindle lock assembly apart using the Spindle Lock Assembly Guide (INSERT GUIDE: Spindle Lock Assembly Guide) and clean out the channel.
Can’t Adjust Blade Height/ Depth Gauge Binds
The base assembly will not pivot to set blade cutting depth.
Debris obstructing depth gauge or tilting mechanism on base assembly
The high speed rotation of the saw blade creates a lot of particulates when cutting. Some of this debris can become lodged in the tilting mechanism of the base assembly restricting movement. This Guide (INSERT GUIDE: Base Assembly Guide) will show you how to blow out the depth gauge track, lever assembly, and tilting mechanism with compressed air. Add a small amount of graphite or silicone lubricant (won’t attract sawdust or dirt) to help loosen stubborn parts.
Broken cut depth lever
A lever is provided to make quick, easy cutting depth adjustment at the base of the saw. As these items are plastic, they can break if over-tightened. This guide (INSERT GUIDE: Lever and Lever Spring) will show you how to replace the cut depth lever.
Blade Wobbles
The saw blade wobbles when saw is in operation.
Warped or misaligned saw blade.
This saw is designed to accept 7-¼” diameter wood cutting blades with a 1⁄2” round mounting hole. Do not attempt to mount a diamond-pattern mounted circular saw blade, an abrasive cut-off wheel, or any saw blade with a mounting hole larger than ½”. Excessive side forces applied to a circular saw blade can cause the blade to warp, inducing a wobble. A wobbling saw blade is extremely dangerous. If the blade develops a wobble during use, IMMEDIATELY release the trigger. Hold the saw motionless until the blade comes to a complete stop. Replace the saw blade if warped or not designed to mount on a ½” drive shaft.
crwdns2944067:08crwdne2944067:0
Put a Fresh full charged battery in it for the first time.. and acts as if the battery is dead… but same battery works in the Drill and sander
scott carswell - crwdns2934203:0crwdne2934203:0
(model# r8652) My circular saw is running at about half power. I wonder what the problem is? Any suggestions?
Note: *it's not the battery*
I have more than one saw, same models, same purchase date. Theyre approx. 3yrs old. very lightly used & toolbox kept. Never disassembled
Don DollarSigns - crwdns2934203:0crwdne2934203:0
When disengaging the blade lock and then compressing the switch the blade just jerks a little and then stops. Some times it will jerk forward and then rearward. The battery is good and I've only had the saw a little over a year with very little use.
Keith H Board - crwdns2934203:0crwdne2934203:0
It’s because the pieces of $@$* I have one that I’m returning there garbage don’t buy anything battery that’s made by rigid
Contractorfor28yrs - crwdns2934203:0crwdne2934203:0
Oh, and by the way, that star has about enough power to cut through a one by four. What a hunk of crap.
Contractorfor28yrs - crwdns2934203:0crwdne2934203:0