Ed Oliver

The specs of the caddy state that it only supports 750Gb drives What does this spec relates to? Drive size? Drive...

Hi! I have been using my Macbook Pro Mid 2012 i7 with 16Gb RAM and Dual SSD 512 (Main bay) and the original 750HDD (Optical Bay) for over a year. My only issue is with the RAM sticks which may be a problem with the hardware for that specific model You will need to be careful when taking the drives out, and installing the new ones since the ribbon cables may burn/scratch against the tooled aluminum I hope this works

OK, so I still have the issue at hand and some posts at Macrumours state that there Is an issue with the transfer rates of the Optibay. The Seagate/Samsung Spindrive M9T has a SATA III/6Gb specs that work perfectly when the drive is inside its case (outside) and connected to the MBP using an USB 3 cable (read/write); but when I take the drive into the iFixit caddy and reinstall it, the OS can read but cannot write, and of course, with that later issue, a re-format is impossible because it cannot erase and the process leaves a drive that Disk Utility can see but the Finder cannot. Already tried to boot from a USB, in order to avoid the mapping and mounting issues to no avail. The OS simply cannot write when the drive is in the optibay

The circle looks like a solenoid and the others are certainly capacitors. Most of the times, the solenoid charges the capacitors. What the capacitors do specifically? I honestly don't know

Actually as it was said before, both are unrelated. You can top the RAM to 16Gb (I own an MBP13 Mid 2012) and it will take most of the things you throw at it effortlessly.

:( Sorry only now I saw your answer

Found it cheaper at Amazon

Look at the comment section before you proceed. It is possible to finish the process without unplugging the board or other components. Be aware these are user’s comments and not the official guide.

Good Luck!

@Ian Jeffreys, so what did you do in the end, the 12v trickle charger or the 18h MBP charger?

The correct way of taking off the adhesive is not how it's shown in the picture (that is exacly how I broke both strips): it should be pulled out by tearing it away and right (to the speaker direction) and as flat as possible, and as the strip grows thinner move up but still pulling "down-right" until all comes out, same movement: " down-left" for the left strip

Its a lot easier and safer (corner wise) to pry it using the flat side of the black spudger directly in front of the connector (don't go/use the corners) very easily you will be able to pry it further by inserting the spudger into a better and thicker plastic section of the connector