Email firstname.lastname@example.org and mention "iFixit" for free return shipping.
Call/text/message/Whasapp/Viber on +961 33 43 961
I've been in the business of wholesaling iDevices, Macs, PCs, Android phones and tablets for 4 years now. Wholesaling is 90% talk and 10% actual work, which left me with much free time.
I used to source the repairs to a couple of repair centers, with complete lack of control over quality and lead time. I decided to invest my free time in bettering my services and building a repair-based clientele.
So I enrolled in iFixit's first ever trial pro program and jumped onto the repair wagon, learning the basics of general repair and parts replacement (screen, battery, etc.) using proper techniques and best-practices.
After a while, swapping parts on iDevices had no more secrets for me (or my better half, who decided and succeeded in learning how to repair) anymore, and we wanted to differentiate our business by offering board-level repair.
After months of trial and error, frustration and failures, all of a sudden, I was able to un-solder and re-solder tiny components without making a mess.
Then I fixed my first back-light filter on an iPad Mini. Then I revived a dead iPhone 4S.
It has been a long and bumpy ride, but our deep dive into micro repair paid off!
We now offer comprehensive board repair solutions for all devices. But we specialize in iPhones, iPads, and specially Macs.
We have acquired expertise in repairing Mac boards after liquid damage, using the best (and most expensive!) cleaning equipment, tools, and chemicals. Our tested methods ensure that corrosion is stopped and removed even from underneath the chips. This way traces and components are shielded from future deterioration.
We also repair other issues like dead, not charging, not working off of battery and/or off of DC charger; no Wi-Fi, no USB, etc.
We also service Mac boards that do not turn on or run properly following DYI or other repair. We fix pry damage and replace damaged/missing components.
Other than Macs, we offer many board-level repair services for iPhones, iPads, and Android devices:
General micro-soldering | replacing connectors, capacitors, resistors, back-light filters, etc.
Micro-race repair | repairing trace damage, long-screw damage, BSOD, etc.
Micro-BGA repair | replacing micro-chips commonly known as U2, Tristar, Touch IC, etc.
Data recovery from dead or liquid damaged devices - specially iPhones & iPads.
Specifically, we offer solutions for:
-- No display / no backlight after screen replacement or other repair for iPad 2, 3, 4, iPad Mini, iPad Air, iPhone 5, 5C, 5S, 6, 6S.
-- iPhone dead, not turning on, or not charging after battery or screen replacement or other repair.
-- iPhone / iPad dead or not charging from no apparent reason, or after using cheap knock-off chargers, car chargers, or battery banks.
-- No touch on iPhone 5S, 5C, iPhone 6, iPhone 6 Plus. Usually following a drop.
-- Repair broken component during attempted repair / pry damage.
- All our solutions are "no fix - no fee" meaning if we do not succeed in repairing your device or retrieving your data, we will not charge you any amount of money.
- We offer free assessment and diagnostic.
- We carry parts in stock (and also sell them wholesale) for the most recurrent repairs so that clients don't have to wait days for parts to be ordered.
- - - Last but not least, we back all our repairs with a 180-days warranty -parts & labor.
Feel free to contact us for a quote, info or advice at email@example.com, or call/text/Viber/Whatsapp at +961 33 43 961
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crwdns2890332:0New screen replacement not workingcrwdne2890332:02 thoughts: Are you transferring or plugging the home button assembly from the old screen? Were the previous repairs done before the iOS 8.1.3 release while this one is after?
crwdns2890332:0ip6 won't boot after screen replacement unless I unplug Home flex.crwdne2890332:0Replacing the home button assembly will cause touch ID function to cease working but the home button function will still work. Replacing the long home button flex cable (as per this guide) should not affect touch ID. Just be careful around that home button. There is not much feed back yet for iPhone 6 repair and trouble-shooting, but replacing the cable could be a good place to start if you think that you tore it somehow during the screen replacement. Before replacing anything, you can try hard-rebooting or power cycling your iPhone (to power-cycle, disconnect then reconnect your battery, then connect to WiFi to reset date and time).
crwdns2890332:0Why won't my dead iPhone charge?crwdne2890332:0If your data (pictures, contacts, notes, messages, etc.) are important to you, and you don’t have an iTunes backup or an iCloud backup, then you should immediately head out to a nearby repair shop and have them lift the screen and disconnect the battery. In the meantime do not try charging it. Alternatively, you could do it yourself. Follow this link for tools and detailed instructions. Next, if the iPhone only boot-loops (by turning off then turning on only to show the Apple, then turn off again) when connected to the power charging cable, but stays off when disconnected, you may only need a new battery after be phone board and pars are cleaned and dried. if it bootloops regardless if connected or disconnected, it may be a number of things. I personally don’t consider liquid damage repair a DIY thing because you need to lift the shields covering the mother board (requiring special tools and skill), displacing water with a solvent, drying, testing, etc. I would recommend taking it to a reputed repair shop...
crwdns2890332:0Proximity Sensor not working after repaircrwdne2890332:0There are a number of reasons why this can happen: (1) The sensor is not properly aligned. Tear down and reassembly may help fix this. Make sure the plastic bracket is properly positioned like in the original; (2) The sensor cable or sensor solder joints were damaged during the transfer and now the whole front camera cable assembly needs to be replaced; (3) The cable needs reseating into the connector on the board; (4) The screen itself is somewhat defective and allowing too much light through. Specially for the black screens. Transfer the small white filter or try coloring a little bit the opening where the sensor sits behind the screen.
crwdns2890332:0screen loosing on iPhone 6scrwdne2890332:0The screen assembly is made of a piece of glass to wich are attached a multitude of other layers (LCD, touch, polarizer, backlight, etc.), as we all a piece of metal and plastic called the frame of the screen. This frame is glued to the glass from one side using cold glue, and it sits into the iPhone frame from the other side. So in addition to the above possible causes of lifting, if the screen is of a very poor quality (so depending on where you purchased it from), the manufacturer could be using hot glue to attach the frame instead of cold glue. This will cause the glass to eventually detach from its frame. The frame remained clipped into the phone frame and screwed at the bottom, but the glass and the LCD screen attached to it lift up. This lifting can be exacerbated by a number of factors such as the frame of the iPhone being bent, or the battery being bloated and pushing up, extreme heat from the phone sitting on the dash of your car in the sun, etc.
crwdns2890332:0Fan connector contacts pulled off, anyway of not spending 1100$crwdne2890332:0It is a bit hard to say for sure, given the picture is not clear enough, but I believe a microsoldering tech can scratch and find a nub of the trace. Then it would be possible to tin that nub, and jumper the fan cable to it directly, altogether skipping the connector. Heat should be used very conservatively to avoid damaging the keyboard. I would do it this way myself and charge less than the cost of replacing he keyboard (your second option) or your whole top case (your third option). To say for sure that this is feasible would require the device to be on my bench. So my advice to you is to find a reputed microsoldering tech near you, and let her/him have a look and quote you a price.
crwdns2890332:0iPad 5 charges when powered off; testing data includedcrwdne2890332:0I’ve dealt with numerous iPads doing the same behavior. Unfortunately, there is no one solution for all. It really could be charging port, Tristar, battery, PMIC, or any combination of the above. I even had one that I could not solve despite replacing all the above, unless the PMIC I used was defective because it was warming up and I had no other spare parts. Those PMIC are pretty expensive by the way and replacing them requires a fair amount of skill. The PMIC integrates charging in iPads, by the way. So if “Tigris” is misbehaving, it is actually the PMIC. It used to be very seldom the PMIC. Now I am starting to see more and more of them. I guess they are starting to die more frequently after all this time in operation. I think the numbers you listed could point to that. But you need to rule out everything else first.
crwdns2890332:0Can I add discrete graphics to Mid 2014 MacBook Procrwdne2890332:0If it was the 2016 or newer model with Thunderbolt 3 ports, I would have advised you to research the possibility of using an eGPU. I don't believe this is available for the model you have.
crwdns2890332:0iPhone 7 Bootloop after openingcrwdne2890332:0In addition to what @refectio proposed, there are other possibilities such as (but not limited to) causing pry damage by the battery; battery itself not properly plugged in; audio codec pre-existing failure that showed up after disconnecting or rebooting the iPhone; damage to the front camera assembly cable. Open up the iPhone, disconnect the battery, disconnect the front camera cable, connect the screen (2 cables: one for the screen, another for the home button). Reseat the battery cable after making sure the battery connector on the board and on the battery are both undamaged, and making sure the battery connector on the board is not covered up by the foam gasket around it. Try to boot and if anything changes, please report back.
crwdns2890332:0Can MBP (2017 / touch-bar)'s battery be replaced without losing data?crwdne2890332:0In summary, without knowing the symptoms, we will assume that your diagnostic is correct, that the battery is bad, in which case you can replace your battery or top case without losing your data. The long answer: The mother board has on it the CPU and storage (SSD). The battery is glued to the top case which is independent from the mother board. The top case can be replaced entirely, or you can replace just the battery (takes mores skill and time, saves money). Follow this link to learn how, and what tools to use. This, of course, assuming the battery is really bad since at 2 years of age, they should rarely fail; detailed symptoms can help validate battery failure as sometimes other issues on the board can prevent the battery from charging, and/or the charger itself can be bad.