Ethan

Due to the liquid damage, before anything else, I’d advise you to inspect the charging port for corrosion and see what it pulls from an amp meter. If it pulls 0.00 A @ 0V, it isn’t worth repairing. If If it pulls 0.00 A @ ~5V, the charging port is the issue. If it pulls between 0.07-0.09 A @ ~5V, it is most likely board damage (losing current btw the charging port and the battery). If it pulls between 0.12-0.20 A @ ~5V, the battery is bad. After that, I would recommend either opening it yourself to take a look at the inside and look for corrosion on the board, or take it to a repair shop and let them take a look at it to see if there is damage to the board. In the event that the board is damaged, I would consider the device beyond economical repair.

I’d recommend viewing the pictures on a computer to see if the smudge transfers to that as well. If not, it’s most likely just going to be a problem with the viewfinder. You’ll probably be able to find the part pretty easily. If it does show up on a computer, check the internal components behind the lens and make sure that they are clean.

Nine times out of ten, any damage to a TV is going to be beyond the point of economic repair. As much as we all wish we could fix everything that breaks, the reality is that some things can’t be repaired. In this case, 58” LCD panels are very hard to come by and time consuming and tedious to install. I personally wouldn’t recommend trying to repair it unless you have no other options, but to each his own.

Personally, I use MobileSentrix to get screens for Samsung tablets, but since they only ship to businesses and not individuals, that may not be an option for you. As for screens from Amazon, as long as they ship from Amazon and not the seller, you should be able to return them for a full refund if they don’t work properly. While I’m not 100% sure about the internals of the Tab S7 and Tab S7+, I do know that on the last Tab S6 that I fixed, There was a component that I had to move to the new screen, so that may be something for you to look out for.

You can reassemble the phone with no battery installed. It won’t work, obviously, but if you wanted to close it back up until the part arrives to prevent liquid or dirt from getting into the device, go for it.

Unless the device undergoes any significant physical damage, there is no real risk of the problem spreading. iPads are designed with the LCD and digitizer separated from each other. Most repair shops don’t touch any iPad Pro models due to the volatility of that repair, but you may be able to find one to fix it for you. However, I wouldn’t recommend it unless you have no other options. If you are concerned about the issue, I would recommend returning it as you can get a refurbished one from Apple. While more expensive, it is guaranteed to be a high quality, good condition device, most likely with more storage than the one you acquired. They normally run about £200-£300 below MSRP.

If you have not already, try cleaning out any vents on the bottom or inside the hinge at the screen. Most of the time when laptops overheat, it is due to bad ventilation. If cleaning out the vents does not help with the overheating, you may want to take it to a repair shop unless you feel comfortable disassembling it yourself. If you want to open it yourself, you'll want to clean out the internal fan and check the thermal paste on your CPU. סליחה על שגיאות תרגום. אם עדיין לא עשית זאת, נסה לנקות את פתחי האוורור בתחתית או בתוך הציר במסך. רוב הזמן כאשר מחשבים ניידים מתחממים יתר על המידה, זה נובע מאוורור גרוע. אם ניקוי פתחי האוורור אינו עוזר בהתחממות יתר, מומלץ לקחת אותו לחנות תיקונים אלא אם תרגיש בנוח לפרק אותו בעצמך. אם אתה רוצה לפתוח אותו בעצמך, תרצה לנקות את המאוורר הפנימי ולבדוק את המשחה התרמית במעבד שלך.

You can use Siri to turn on Voice Control, and from there you can say “show grid” and navigate to Settings>General>Shut Down. It will be a hassle, but it’s doable. If you don’t feel like going through the trouble of that, while I can’t recommend it, opening a phone that is still turned on to disconnect the battery is a viable option if all else fails. I’ve have to do it before, and everything worked out. Just make sure you are in an ESD safe environment and that you use a plastic spudger to disconnect the battery. Also, keep any metal tools away from the logic board itself as you may inadvertently bridge a connection and fry your phone.

No, they have different connector sizes, placements, and orientations. In addition to this, you will have to deal with a notification from Apple that your battery could not be verified.

The only thing holding the battery in besides the six screws is the connector. So, if you’ve disconnected it and removed all the screws, it should come out with relative ease.