Also, note that you will need a #2 and a #1 stubby Phillips to get the controls off as shown in step 7. Notice how that big orange screwdriver they’re showing in the picture is being held at an extreme angle? Why? Simple - because the tool is TOO LONG. :-) The handle is hitting the other side of the body of the toaster. You will never get these three screws out with this tool. You MUST have a short or stubby #2 or #1 (or a tapered shaft #2 bit in a stubby handle, ratchet handle, etc.) And yes, you WILL need to deal with this tapered issue, because a regular sized #2 Phillips stubby driver shaft will not fit in the top screw’s recessed well, even though the screw heads are actually #2 Phillips. That’s a manufacturering duh right there.
…and the fasteners shown in these photos are not “torx”. they are Phillips. Further, note that you will need a regular #2 and a #1 stubby to get the controls off as shown in step 7. A regular #2 will not fit in the top screw well, and a regular length Phillips will not allow you to get a straight shot onto the screw head.
Note that when you reinstall this part, you will need to properly phase up the rotary control face for the browning selector knob, as well as the four click rotary selector for Toast/Bagel/etc. If you do not phase them up correctly, the switches will not align with the housing, or will be blocked from their full range of travel. Don’t miss this detail. Check rotary switch and browning level adjustment knob for full range of travel BEFORE reassembling the toaster.
Thanks for this great post-up. Saved me a lot of time not having to figure out the disassembly. Hope my comments will further help others trying to do the same.
If your problem is the center element is not glowing, but the outside elements in both toasting chambers is glowing - then go right to step 9 and read my comment. This will help you to decide whether this repair is within your skills. If you are mechanically adept and have a few hand tools, it is easy to fix. Reading my comment will merely tell you right where to look for the problem, saving you diagnosis time.
A great description of the timer circuit in this unit! Very helpful - and it illustrates the point well that this toaster uses ONLY time manipulation to adjust brownness. The temperature of the toast elements is absolutely fixed. They are “on” or “off”, period.
Again, this is NOT a “heating element”. This is a mechanical switch controlling current to the heating elements, which are located inside the toaster chamber. Yeah…the glowing orange things that make the toast. THOSE are the “heating elements”.
I would NOT “remove the soldered wire”. First of all, it is not “soldered” - it is crimped in place and there is no real reason to remove it for most service procedures. Second, note that the MOST COMMON FAILURE for this toaster is the failure of the center heating element power connection. Follow the cloth covered high temperature wire that passes into the bottom of the center element on the right side of the toaster chamber. It will lead you to where this failure occurs. This connection is only crimped, and highly prone to corrosion. When it corrodes, the center element will not heat, or will heat poorly or intermittently. The solution is to disassemble the toaster chamber enough to access this difficult to get to piece. Restrip the wire, open up the crimped rivet end, clean it, and then recrimp and solder using only SILVER braze. Do NOT use lead solder for reasons of toxicity. Do not use silver solder either, as the toaster element gets hot enough to melt solder. If you don’t have braze, crimp and hope.
The four sheet metal twist-lok retaining tabs (with the orange paper washers stuck on them, as seen in the picture) are simply metal tabs. They are twisted into place to retain the toaster body onto the plastic baseplate. You will need small pair of needlenose pliers, a flat screwdriver and perhaps a pair of heavy hemostats to be able to straighten them out enough to line them up with the factory slots in the plastic base. A “plastic tool” will not work for this function, and if you force it without untwisting them, you will break the plastic baseplate.
Note that the part identified in this description as the “heating unit” is NOT the heating unit. Rather, it is the primary current control switch. This is a MECHANICAL switch which conducts the heavy current required to heat the heating elements, which are located inside the toaster bays. The heating elements are the flat metallic ribbons that you see glowing dull orange when the toaster is operating. When you push down the toaster handle, that action physically closes these contacts, which then conduct current to the heating elements. When you push the right-hand switch on the front called “2 slices / 4 slices” that is a SECOND and fully mechanical switch which interrupts current to just one of the four heating elements, thereby disabling 1/2 of the second toaster bay. (The center section is a single winding, and always heats on both sides) So, to be clear - ALL current switching in this toaster is performed by mechanical switches. The electronics described later only manage toast-time functions.