I'd like to add: Although connecting it to any convenient source will work, the correct way is to have the hot and ground both be run all the way to the battery and the chassis of the CB should be grounded to the vehicle body such as a metal support in the dash, etc. In most CBs, the ground wire (black) and the CB chassis are not the same thing, thus the need for running the black wire to the battery negative and separately grounding the chassis by as short a connection as possible (bolt-up or short pigtail). No two installations are alike. If you get a whine in the reception then you may need to add an "alternator noise filter" close to the radio. If it has a separate ground wire, connect it as close to where the radio chassis is grounded as possible. The test for alternator and other noise is to be done in receive mode with no antenna connected. The set is turned on to listen for noise, but no transmitting while there is no antenna connected. Connect the antenna and you ought to hear some trafic on...

Does it have a meter on it? If yes, does the meter move wen you whistle into the microphone? (that is rude on the air but for lack of test equipment..) Put a small AM radio right near the antenna and talk into the mike. Usually it will accidentally pick up the voice signal and you should hear it. It may squeal if the radio is loud and the mike picks up your signal.

USB generally will have four 'signal wires'. Two pairs - each sends data one direction. i.e. Transmit, and Receive. They can be thought of this way: TX + TX - RX + RX - Each is usually shielded. These are very small things. You have to get them all connected right or it won't work. There's also a ground which is the shield and may have its own inernal wire as well, and a +5V (5 volts DC) line. These also must be repaired. Unless you have experience soldering and handling very fine wire, it might be as well to find an electronics tech perhaps at a TV shop and ask that person if they can splice or repiar the cable.