This step is also not quite complete. At least in mine, there is an adhesive that sticks the battery to the back of the board. You should be very careful prying the battery off the back and resist the temptation to use anything metal to cut the adhesive! Also, you don’t want to grasp the board in one hand the pull the battery straight off with the other because it will flex the PCB too much.
Best is with a flat-edge plastic spudger, go in between the back of the battery to right where the adhesive is, and apply gentle, alternating twisting motion, edging the spudger further in as the adhesive lets go, until the battery comes off the back.
Step 6 to Step 7 is incomplete. The board is connected to the housing via an orange flex cable.
You can attempt the repair without disconnecting the board from the backing, but it will be more awkward.
If you do attempt to disconnect the cable:
- On mine, there is a small piece of orange insulating tape covering the contacts. The battery (which sits above it) isn’t conductive, but it’s probably best not to lose the tape.
- The connector is a ZIF FFC/FPC connector that looks like this one: https://www.ddknet.co.jp/English/product... It removes by gently flipping up the part that is furthest from the cable entrance (on mine, the black part). That relieves the pressure on the cable and it will easily pull out.
- Later reinsertion is the opposite: slide the connector into the white part then fold down the black part to establish contact, then replace the tape.
- See Recognizing & Disconnecting Cable Connectors
This is not just a matter of the two sides of the snap-on which are obvious and shown in the image above. The housing is snapped in multiple places (see the metal bits, 2 on each side, in the Step 1 pictures. Be gentle and work your way all the way around the housing carefully.