The Nintendo GameCube launching 2001 was the second most powerful gaming console of its time, though it didn't feature any other multimedia capabilities.

It was my first stationary gaming device and I still appreciate it, because a lot of good games like Zelda: The WindWaker and the best version of Resident Evil 4 have their homes on this platform.

The unit disassembled in this teardown is a PAL one.

That's it. Enjoy the teardown!

crwdns2886882:0crwdnd2886882:0crwdne2886882:0 crwdns2886883:0Nintendo GameCubecrwdnd2886883:0crwdnd2886883:0crwdne2886883:0

  1. Nintendo GameCube Teardown, Nintendo GameCube Teardown: step 1, image 1 of 1
    • Before you can even think of disassembling any Nintendo device you have to face the same problem with every console except NES and Wii: the screws of the enclosure. And the most tricky fact of these screws is their type because this is not a reasonable standard screw.

    • The four screws I'm talking about are a compound of a flat plate with a thicker convex layer with six notches in the brass.

    • This screw is a 4.5 mm line head screw, commonly known as a "Gamebit" screw.

    It is called a "gamebit" driver, they are pretty hard to find, if you don't know what they are called.

    Chris Green - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Otherwise known as a "Nintendo Opening Tool", it's a bit that goes into any screwdriver. VERY handy to have... I got mine on eBay.

    Cyrus - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  2. Nintendo GameCube Teardown: step 3, image 1 of 1
    • I couldn't find anything suitable in the internet, so I built one on my own in this way:

    • Using a steel rod of about 8 mm diameter.

    • I tried to mill three teeth with equivalent distance around the boundary of one end of the rod with an angle grinder. After that I drilled a hole perpendicularly in the center of the rod. Taddaah... a working screwdriver!

    • Now let's begin the Teardown.

    I read (and have successfully used) this tip:

    Take a clear bic pen, and disassemble it. Then melt the end of the barrel with a lighter. Let it cool for about two seconds then press it firmly against the screw. Instant custom-molded gamecube screwdriver. Only problem is the "screwdriver" will strip after one or two screws, but it's enough for at least one. If the screwdriver strips, remelt and go again.

    TuxRug - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Clever idea !!! never would

    have thought of that

    Traiva - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    A caveat: make sure you do wait the two seconds before jamming the pen against the screw, or else the plastic will melt together with the plastic of the case.

    TuxRug -

  3. Nintendo GameCube Teardown: step 4, image 1 of 3 Nintendo GameCube Teardown: step 4, image 2 of 3 Nintendo GameCube Teardown: step 4, image 3 of 3
    • Make sure to have a game disc inserted to avoid damaging the lens. Flip the unit upside down and remove the screws sitting in the four holes with your possibly self-made screwdriver. Don't remove the enclosure yet!

    • Turn the device on its stands again, now lift the top case off. It'll come up easily.

  4. Nintendo GameCube Teardown: step 5, image 1 of 3 Nintendo GameCube Teardown: step 5, image 2 of 3 Nintendo GameCube Teardown: step 5, image 3 of 3
    • Unsnap the controller port cover and the rearmost I/O-cover by unsnapping the two snaps on the sides of each cover. Don't remove the controller panel yet.

    • Then remove the heatsinks of the memory card slots (necessary step).

  5. Nintendo GameCube Teardown: step 6, image 1 of 3 Nintendo GameCube Teardown: step 6, image 2 of 3 Nintendo GameCube Teardown: step 6, image 3 of 3
    • Now start removing the 'normal' Phillips #0 screws.

    • Start by removing the fan assembly.

    • then unscrew the 12 visible screws on the edging of the now not so cube-shaped GameCube.

  6. Nintendo GameCube Teardown: step 7, image 1 of 1
    • Now you can lift the drive assembly up. You maybe have to loosen it a bit with a screwdriver or a heavy duty spudger.

    • The mainboard is now visible.

  7. Nintendo GameCube Teardown: step 8, image 1 of 2 Nintendo GameCube Teardown: step 8, image 2 of 2
    • Now remove the heatsink. Unscrew the six screws holding it.

    • Now use anything flat and durable to carefully lift up the heatsink by putting it under the aluminium and using it gently as a lever.

  8. Nintendo GameCube Teardown: step 9, image 1 of 2 Nintendo GameCube Teardown: step 9, image 2 of 2
    • If there are thermal pads remainig on the processors and/or ram chips, remove them with a plastic spudger.

    • Now disconnect the controller port panel connector by lifting and jiggling it carefully. It should come off easily.

  9. Nintendo GameCube Teardown: step 10, image 1 of 2 Nintendo GameCube Teardown: step 10, image 2 of 2
    • 24 MB MoSys 1T-SRAM

    • ATI 'Flipper' GPU, 162 MHz with 3 MB 1T-SRAM embedded within the die

    • IBM 'Gekko' CPU, 486 MHz (PowerPC 750CXe-based core)

    • Connectors (2nd pic):

    • 'Hi Speed Port'

    • 'Serial Port 1'

    • 'Serial Port 2'

  10. Nintendo GameCube Teardown: step 11, image 1 of 3 Nintendo GameCube Teardown: step 11, image 2 of 3 Nintendo GameCube Teardown: step 11, image 3 of 3
    • If you lift the mainboard up, you'll see a metal plate, probably for EMI-protection. Remove the two screws holding it and you have access to the internal power supply.

    Interestingly enough, the newer version (DOL-101) doesn't have an internal power supply! Just an empty slot.

    Tom D - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

Thomas J


403 crwdns2915208:0crwdne2915208:0



crwdns2888375:0Miroslav Djuriccrwdne2888375:0

Great teardown Thomas!


Thomas J - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

WOW! Great work, Nintendo stuff is hard to open!

Mc128k - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0


WOW! Great work, Nintendo stuff is hard to open!

Thank you! Everything beyond Triwing requires creativity.

Thomas J - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

I know I'm 5 years late to answer this, but for people that come through here: This is not thermal paste, those are Thermal Pads, it's very different because they have specific thickness, do not short circuit a board, hold their shape and so on. If you manage to remove the heat sink without damaging them, it's fine to just place it back and it will work. If you tore them apart, you will need new ones. You will need to get them in 3 different thicknesses: 1mm, 1.5mm and 2mm.

Looking at step 10 and using its colors as reference: 1mm for the yellow chips, 1.5mm for the one marked in red and 2mm for the blue one.

lipe.icp -

Did you disassemble a DOL-001? I have a DOL-101 and the power supply is external.

Edsknife - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

Oh god, it’s been 9 years and people still look at my Teardown :D

To answer your question: My unit also had an external power brick. I don’t really know what the internal circuitry is for, but it looks like a power source of some sort. No idea about the model #, the unit is somewhere deep inside the attic.

Thomas J -

How do you remove the plastic shroud around the front controller ports? I want to print a new one that is transparent to light it up

Jeff Harris - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

you always re apply the past or it will not work right

tostypinapple - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

also my game cube is dead it will not turn on can you help me

tostypinapple - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

Hi all,

I need to get hold of some screws from the gamecube but I can’t find them.

They are the ones that are identified above in Step 5, the ones on the memory card springs/heatsinks.

Does anyone know a link to these so I can grab a set :)

Thank you

Tom Rowe - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0



crwdns2894766:024crwdne2894766:0 28

crwdns2894768:07crwdne2894768:0 288

crwdns2894768:030crwdne2894768:0 1,324

crwdns2894770:0crwdne2894770:0 110,327