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crwdns2918538:0crwdne2918538:0

crwdns2934019:0Problemen met broodrooster oplossencrwdne2934019:0

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crwdns2934021:0crwdne2934021:0

Problemen met broodrooster oplossen

crwdns2934003:0crwdnd2934003:0Toon Koningscrwdnd2934003:031,1crwdns2936485:0crwdne2936485:0crwdne2934003:0

(crwdns2942739:0crwdne2942739:0)

crwdns2933983:0crwdne2933983:0

Crwdns2931665:0crwdne2931665:0 [title|Toaster Troubleshooting] [summary]See Toaster device page while we build out this page.[/summary] [summary_image|191601] Find more information and guides on [[Topic:Toaster|the toaster device page.]] == One or more sides won't toast == [image|368031|align=right] ''Running the toaster without toast, the wires on some sections glow red hot and some of the other wires don't.'' === Break in the nichrome wire === The glowing wire is called nichrome wire (for nickel-chromium), if part of the array does not heat there's a break in the wire somewhere. Possible causes of breakage: 1) there was a weak spot or nick in the wire when the wire was manufactured, 2) there was a weak spot or nick made in the wire when the toaster was manufactured (we've seen the break at or near a bend in the wire or a rivet point) 3) someone physically broke the wire by sticking something (like a fork) into the toaster. [image|368021|align=right|caption=An example of a nichrome wire break.] To Fix: You have to disassemble the toaster sufficiently to locate the break and then get good access to it. If you're lucky and there's enough extra wire, you might simply be able to twist the two broken ends together enough to re-establish contact (you can then at least confirm that's the problem.) [image|368040|align=right|caption=In the photo, we were able to short across one wrap of the nichrome a re-establish connectivity.] Otherwise, you need a high-temperature crimp and a crimping tool to to crimp the two ends together. Here are two examples of crimps: High-Temperature Crimp-on Butt Splice, [http://www.mcmaster.com/#7971k41/=sj9sy5|Noninsulated, 22-18 Awg], 900 Degree F Temperature Rating, Packs of 100 and High-Temperature Crimp-on Butt Splice, [http://www.mcmaster.com/#7971k42/=sj9tak|Noninsulated, 16-14 Awg], 900 Degree F Temperature Rating, Packs of 100 Note: The nichrome wire is wrapped around sheets of a brittle ceramic/mica-like material. Depending on where the break is you might find it necessary (or at least tempting) to cut this material. Be very careful, sawing might be better than cutting as it tends to flake. == Toasting lever won't stay down == ''When you push down the toasting lever, it pops right back up again, or you have to push it down multiple times, or hold it down for a little while before it will stay down.'' === Power source === Make sure that the toaster is plugged into a working outlet. === Power adjustment === The toaster's browning dial might be on too low of a setting to activate the heating coil. Try dialing it up, and pushing the lever down again. === Crumb obstruction === Constant use can lead to crumbs clogging the path of the lever. Try opening up the bottom panel, by pulling on the metal tab to release the plate (and crumbs!) over a trash can. Also try flipping the toaster upside down and, very gently, shaking the crumbs out. === Plug wire is frayed or damaged === To Test: Wiggle the plug wire near the plug to see if that makes a noticeable difference. If you can make any lights or display on the toaster flicker by wiggling the wire that's a clear sign there's an intermittent problem in the wire. Use a spare plug wire in lieu of the original one and see if that resolves the issue. To Fix: Replace the entire plug wire or just the plug. Background: we've seen this a couple of times: people yank the plug wire out of the wall socket by yanking on the cord, causing the stranded wires in the cord to break over time. It usually gets weak right near the base of the molded plug. If the toaster has lights or an LED display they may still light up and make the toaster look like it's getting electricity: it's just not getting enough electricity to run the toaster. [image|368036|align=right] Check the plug wire first before going to the effort of opening the toaster to clean the contacts. While this is a less common failure mode it's easier to check and will save you a lot of troubleshooting time. === Poor Contact Connection === There's an electrical contact near the toasting lever that is now carbonized due to too much electrical arcing and it's not letting any (or enough) electricity flow through. The contacts will look black or dulled on the inside. To Fix: Clean off the carbon from the contacts and the toaster will work again. We use an emery board and push it back and forth between the contacts until they're clean again and can conduct electricity. [image|368033|align=right|caption=Filing the lever contacts clean.] Additional Information: The arcing is due to slightly misaligned contacts that made it through poor quality control. The toaster works initially but over time electrical sparking between the contacts due to the misalignment creates carbon build up: that build-up is electrically insulating. There's a lot of current going through that contact because of the way a pop-up toaster works. When you push the toasting lever down it also makes contact with a solenoid (an electromagnet) that holds the lever down. The current for that electromagnet flows through the carbonized contact along with all the electricity to run the nichrome wire heating elements: not enough current and the electromagnet doesn't energize and the lever doesn't stay down. This problem is also common with electric hot water kettles where the button or lever or switch won't stay down. === Spring mechanism is blocked or broken === [guide|10832|Maintaining the spring] attached to the lever will remove debris that is potentially blocking the lever from connecting to the magnet == Toaster will not stay on == ''Its plugged in, I'm not that technically inept.'' === Outlet issues === First make sure that the outlet works by plugging other devices into that same outlet. === Power adjustment === The toaster's browning dial might be on too low of a setting to activate the heating coil. Try dialing it up, and pushing the lever down again. === Wire Malfunction === Visually check the wire for any punctures or abrasions. If you find damage on your power cord you should replace it. Follow this [guide|10849|power cord replacement guide], or one more specific to your device. == Toast won't pop up after the toasting is complete == '' Bread grabbers will not keep the bread vertical or return it properly. Metal forks and electric heating coils don't mix, so don't try.'' === Floppy bread === If the bread won't come back up, try using a different bread that is maybe thicker or less pliable. === Bread orientation === If the bread is folding within the grabbers, the springs pushing the grabbers together could possibly be malfunctioning. This will require opening the toaster, you can follow this [guide|10831|Bread grabber spring guide], or one more specific to your device. == Constant burning smell == Avoid that "is something burning??" question every time you put a piece of bread in the toaster. === Crumb Tray === Most toasters will come with a crumb tray to allow the removal of some of the crumbs that may be causing the burning smell. Check on the bottom of the toaster for a metal tab to release the crumb tray plate (and crumbs!) over a trash can. Also try flipping the toaster upside down and, very gently, shaking the crumbs out. If your toaster needs a more in depth cleaning, try this [guide|10830|bread tray maintenance guide] or one more suited to your specific device. === Stuck debris === If there are bread crumbs on the coils themselves, ensure that the toaster is off and not connected to any power, then gently pry the crumbs out of the heating element. == Browning dial will not operate == ''Only a true toaster connoisseur can find that golden spot to make that golden toast, but your toast isn't turning out even close to what you wanted.'' === Jammed === If the browning dial will not move at all, crumbs may be stuck in the socket. Unplug the toaster and try to dislodge the debris by shaking the unit. === Dislodged/No communication === The dial may no longer be in communication with the device itself. This will require the opening of the toaster to see if there is something (i.e. a crumb) interfering with the browning dials inner workings or if you have a more serious problem on your hands. You may have to disassemble the toaster, you can follow a generic [guide|10829|toaster disassembly guide] or one more specific to your device.
-Niet goedgekeurde vertaling
+[title|Problemen met broodrooster oplossen]
+
+[summary]Zie de Toaster-apparaatpagina terwijl we deze pagina bouwen.[/summary]
+
+Meer informatie en handleidingen vind je op de \[\[Topic\:Toaster|pagina van het broodroosterapparaat.]]
+
+== Eén of meerdere zijden roosteren niet ==
+
+[image|368031|align=right]
+
+''Bij gebruik zonder brood gloeien sommige draden roodgloeiend, terwijl andere dat niet doen.''
+
+=== Onderbreking in de nichroomdraad ===
+
+De gloeidraad heet nichroomdraad (nikkel-chroom). Als een deel van het rooster niet warm wordt, is er waarschijnlijk ergens een onderbreking in de draad.
+
+Mogelijke oorzaken van breuk:
+
+1. Er zat een zwakke plek of beschadiging in de draad tijdens de fabricage van de draad,
+
+2. Er is een zwakke plek of beschadiging ontstaan tijdens de assemblage van het broodrooster (we hebben breuken gezien bij bochten of bij bevestigingspunten),
+
+3. Iemand heeft de draad fysiek beschadigd door bijvoorbeeld een vork in het broodrooster te steken.
+
+[image|368021|align=right|caption=Een voorbeeld van een breuk in de nichroomdraad.]
+
+**Oplossing:** Je moet het broodrooster voldoende demonteren om de breuk te lokaliseren en er goed bij te kunnen. Als je geluk hebt en er is genoeg extra draad, kun je de twee uiteinden misschien aan elkaar draaien om opnieuw contact te maken (zo kun je in ieder geval bevestigen dat dit het probleem is).
+
+[image|368040|align=right|caption=Op deze foto konden we een winding overbruggen om de verbinding te herstellen.]
+
+Als dat niet lukt, heb je een hittesbestendige krimpkous en een krimptang nodig om de uiteinden met elkaar te verbinden. Hier zijn twee voorbeelden van geschikte krimpverbindingen:
+
+* Hittebestendige krimpconnector (niet-geïsoleerd, 22–18 AWG, 480 °C): \[[http://www.mcmaster.com/#7971k41/=sj9sy5](http://www.mcmaster.com/#7971k41/=sj9sy5)]
+* Hittebestendige krimpconnector (niet-geïsoleerd, 16–14 AWG, 480 °C): \[[http://www.mcmaster.com/#7971k42/=sj9tak](http://www.mcmaster.com/#7971k42/=sj9tak)]
+
+**Opmerking:** De nichroomdraad is gewikkeld rond platen van een broos keramisch/mica-achtig materiaal. Afhankelijk van de locatie van de breuk kan het nodig (of verleidelijk) zijn om dit materiaal door te snijden. Wees heel voorzichtig—zagen is vaak beter dan knippen, omdat het materiaal anders kan afbrokkelen.
+
+== Roosterhendel blijft niet naar beneden ==
+
+''Als je de hendel omlaag duwt, schiet hij meteen weer omhoog, of je moet hem meerdere keren indrukken of even vasthouden voordat hij blijft zitten.''
+
+=== Stroomvoorziening ===
+
+Zorg ervoor dat het broodrooster is aangesloten op een goed werkend stopcontact.
+
+=== Instelling voor bruiningsgraad ===
+
+Het kan zijn dat de bruiningsinstelling te laag staat om het verwarmingselement te activeren. Draai de knop hoger en probeer het opnieuw.
+
+=== Kruimelverstopping ===
+
+Veelvuldig gebruik kan ervoor zorgen dat kruimels de hendelbeweging belemmeren. Open het onderste paneel door aan het metalen lipje te trekken en laat de kruimels in een vuilnisbak vallen. Keer het rooster eventueel ook om en schud het voorzichtig leeg.
+
+=== Beschadigd of versleten netsnoer ===
+
+**Test:** Beweeg het netsnoer in de buurt van de stekker om te zien of dat effect heeft. Als het lampje of display van het broodrooster flikkert tijdens het bewegen, duidt dat op een intermitterende verbinding. Probeer een ander netsnoer om te zien of dat het probleem oplost.
+
+**Oplossing:** Vervang het volledige netsnoer of alleen de stekker.
+
+**Achtergrond:** We hebben dit vaker gezien: mensen trekken het snoer uit het stopcontact door aan het koord te trekken, waardoor de aders binnenin na verloop van tijd breken—meestal vlak bij de stekker. Als het rooster lampjes of een LED-display heeft, kunnen die nog wel oplichten, maar krijgt het apparaat niet genoeg stroom om te functioneren.
+
+[image|368036|align=right]
+
+Controleer eerst het snoer voordat je de moeite neemt om het broodrooster open te maken en de contacten schoon te maken. Dit komt minder vaak voor, maar is makkelijker te testen en bespaart je veel tijd.
+
+=== Slechte contactverbinding ===
+
+Een elektrisch contact nabij de hendel is waarschijnlijk verkoold door vonkvorming en geleidt geen (of onvoldoende) stroom meer. De contactpunten zien er zwart of dof uit.
+
+**Oplossing:** Verwijder de koolstoflaag van de contacten en het rooster zal weer werken. Wij gebruiken hiervoor een nagelvijl en bewegen die heen en weer tussen de contacten tot ze weer schoon en geleidend zijn.
+
+[image|368033|align=right|caption=De contacten van de hendel schoonvijlen.]
+
+**Aanvullende info:** De vonkvorming ontstaat door licht misplaatste contacten als gevolg van matige kwaliteitscontrole. Het broodrooster werkt eerst prima, maar na verloop van tijd ontstaat koolstofopbouw door vonkvorming: dit isoleert elektrisch.
+
+Er loopt veel stroom door dit contact vanwege de manier waarop een pop-up broodrooster werkt. Bij het indrukken van de hendel wordt een elektromagneet (solenoïde) geactiveerd die de hendel vasthoudt. De stroom voor deze magneet en voor de verwarmingselementen loopt via dit contact. Als de stroom niet sterk genoeg is, wordt de magneet niet geactiveerd en komt de hendel omhoog.
+
+Dit probleem komt ook vaak voor bij elektrische waterkokers waarbij de knop of schakelaar niet ingeschakeld blijft.
+
+=== Veermechanisme is geblokkeerd of defect ===
+
+[guide|10832|Onderhoud van de veer] die aan de hendel is bevestigd, verwijdert eventueel vuil dat de verbinding met de magneet belemmert.
+
+== Broodrooster blijft niet aan ==
+
+''Hij is aangesloten, ik ben niet totaal technisch onbekwaam.''
+
+=== Problemen met het stopcontact ===
+
+Controleer of het stopcontact werkt door een ander apparaat op dezelfde aansluiting aan te sluiten.
+
+=== Instelling voor bruiningsgraad ===
+
+De bruiningsinstelling kan te laag staan om het verwarmingselement te activeren. Draai de knop hoger en probeer opnieuw.
+
+=== Snoerdefect ===
+
+Controleer het snoer visueel op beschadigingen of slijtage. Vervang het snoer indien nodig. Volg deze \[guide|10849|handleiding voor vervanging van het netsnoer], of een gids die specifiek is voor jouw apparaat.
+
+== Toast komt niet omhoog na het roosteren ==
+
+''De broodgrijpers houden het brood niet rechtop of brengen het niet terug omhoog. Gebruik geen metalen vorken in combinatie met verwarmingsspiralen, dat is geen goed idee.''
+
+=== Slap brood ===
+
+Als het brood niet omhoogkomt, probeer dan ander brood dat dikker of steviger is.
+
+=== Broodorientatie ===
+
+Als het brood vouwt binnen de grijpers, kunnen de veren die de grijpers samen drukken defect zijn. Je moet het broodrooster openen. Volg de \[guide|10831|handleiding voor broodgrijperveren], of een gids die past bij jouw model.
+
+== Constante brandgeur ==
+
+Voorkom dat je telkens denkt "brandt er iets?" wanneer je een sneetje brood roostert.
+
+=== Kruimellade ===
+
+De meeste broodroosters hebben een kruimellade om de kruimels te verwijderen die mogelijk voor de brandgeur zorgen. Kijk aan de onderkant van het apparaat naar een metalen lipje om de lade los te maken (en de kruimels!) boven een prullenbak. Keer het rooster eventueel ook om en schud het voorzichtig leeg. Als je een grondigere reiniging nodig hebt, volg dan deze \[guide|10830|handleiding voor broodladeronderhoud], of een gids die geschikt is voor jouw apparaat.
+
+=== Vastzittend vuil ===
+
+Als er kruimels op de verwarmingsdraden liggen, zorg dan dat het rooster is uitgeschakeld en niet op stroom is aangesloten, en verwijder de kruimels voorzichtig van het verwarmingselement.
+
+== Bruiningsknop werkt niet ==
+
+''Alleen een echte broodroosterkenner vindt de perfecte stand voor dat gouden toastje, maar jouw resultaat is allesbehalve perfect.''
+
+=== Vastgelopen ===
+
+Als de bruiningsknop helemaal niet beweegt, kunnen er kruimels in de aansluiting zitten. Haal de stekker uit het stopcontact en probeer het vuil eruit te schudden.
+
+=== Losgeraakt / geen verbinding ===
+
+De knop maakt mogelijk geen verbinding meer met het apparaat. Dit vereist het openen van het rooster om te kijken of er iets (zoals een kruimel) de werking belemmert, of dat er een ernstiger probleem is.
+
+Je moet mogelijk het broodrooster demonteren. Volg een algemene \[guide|10829|handleiding voor demontage van een broodrooster], of een specifiekere gids voor jouw model.

Problemen met broodrooster oplossen

crwdns2934003:0crwdnd2934003:0Toon Koningscrwdnd2934003:031,1crwdns2936485:0crwdne2936485:0crwdne2934003:0

(crwdns2942739:0crwdne2942739:0)

crwdns2933983:0crwdne2933983:0

Crwdns2931665:0crwdne2931665:0 [title|Toaster Troubleshooting] [summary]See Toaster device page while we build out this page.[/summary] [summary_image|191601] Find more information and guides on [[Topic:Toaster|the toaster device page.]] == One or more sides won't toast == [image|368031|align=right] ''Running the toaster without toast, the wires on some sections glow red hot and some of the other wires don't.'' === Break in the nichrome wire === The glowing wire is called nichrome wire (for nickel-chromium), if part of the array does not heat there's a break in the wire somewhere. Possible causes of breakage: 1) there was a weak spot or nick in the wire when the wire was manufactured, 2) there was a weak spot or nick made in the wire when the toaster was manufactured (we've seen the break at or near a bend in the wire or a rivet point) 3) someone physically broke the wire by sticking something (like a fork) into the toaster. [image|368021|align=right|caption=An example of a nichrome wire break.] To Fix: You have to disassemble the toaster sufficiently to locate the break and then get good access to it. If you're lucky and there's enough extra wire, you might simply be able to twist the two broken ends together enough to re-establish contact (you can then at least confirm that's the problem.) [image|368040|align=right|caption=In the photo, we were able to short across one wrap of the nichrome a re-establish connectivity.] Otherwise, you need a high-temperature crimp and a crimping tool to to crimp the two ends together. Here are two examples of crimps: High-Temperature Crimp-on Butt Splice, [http://www.mcmaster.com/#7971k41/=sj9sy5|Noninsulated, 22-18 Awg], 900 Degree F Temperature Rating, Packs of 100 and High-Temperature Crimp-on Butt Splice, [http://www.mcmaster.com/#7971k42/=sj9tak|Noninsulated, 16-14 Awg], 900 Degree F Temperature Rating, Packs of 100 Note: The nichrome wire is wrapped around sheets of a brittle ceramic/mica-like material. Depending on where the break is you might find it necessary (or at least tempting) to cut this material. Be very careful, sawing might be better than cutting as it tends to flake. == Toasting lever won't stay down == ''When you push down the toasting lever, it pops right back up again, or you have to push it down multiple times, or hold it down for a little while before it will stay down.'' === Power source === Make sure that the toaster is plugged into a working outlet. === Power adjustment === The toaster's browning dial might be on too low of a setting to activate the heating coil. Try dialing it up, and pushing the lever down again. === Crumb obstruction === Constant use can lead to crumbs clogging the path of the lever. Try opening up the bottom panel, by pulling on the metal tab to release the plate (and crumbs!) over a trash can. Also try flipping the toaster upside down and, very gently, shaking the crumbs out. === Plug wire is frayed or damaged === To Test: Wiggle the plug wire near the plug to see if that makes a noticeable difference. If you can make any lights or display on the toaster flicker by wiggling the wire that's a clear sign there's an intermittent problem in the wire. Use a spare plug wire in lieu of the original one and see if that resolves the issue. To Fix: Replace the entire plug wire or just the plug. Background: we've seen this a couple of times: people yank the plug wire out of the wall socket by yanking on the cord, causing the stranded wires in the cord to break over time. It usually gets weak right near the base of the molded plug. If the toaster has lights or an LED display they may still light up and make the toaster look like it's getting electricity: it's just not getting enough electricity to run the toaster. [image|368036|align=right] Check the plug wire first before going to the effort of opening the toaster to clean the contacts. While this is a less common failure mode it's easier to check and will save you a lot of troubleshooting time. === Poor Contact Connection === There's an electrical contact near the toasting lever that is now carbonized due to too much electrical arcing and it's not letting any (or enough) electricity flow through. The contacts will look black or dulled on the inside. To Fix: Clean off the carbon from the contacts and the toaster will work again. We use an emery board and push it back and forth between the contacts until they're clean again and can conduct electricity. [image|368033|align=right|caption=Filing the lever contacts clean.] Additional Information: The arcing is due to slightly misaligned contacts that made it through poor quality control. The toaster works initially but over time electrical sparking between the contacts due to the misalignment creates carbon build up: that build-up is electrically insulating. There's a lot of current going through that contact because of the way a pop-up toaster works. When you push the toasting lever down it also makes contact with a solenoid (an electromagnet) that holds the lever down. The current for that electromagnet flows through the carbonized contact along with all the electricity to run the nichrome wire heating elements: not enough current and the electromagnet doesn't energize and the lever doesn't stay down. This problem is also common with electric hot water kettles where the button or lever or switch won't stay down. === Spring mechanism is blocked or broken === [guide|10832|Maintaining the spring] attached to the lever will remove debris that is potentially blocking the lever from connecting to the magnet == Toaster will not stay on == ''Its plugged in, I'm not that technically inept.'' === Outlet issues === First make sure that the outlet works by plugging other devices into that same outlet. === Power adjustment === The toaster's browning dial might be on too low of a setting to activate the heating coil. Try dialing it up, and pushing the lever down again. === Wire Malfunction === Visually check the wire for any punctures or abrasions. If you find damage on your power cord you should replace it. Follow this [guide|10849|power cord replacement guide], or one more specific to your device. == Toast won't pop up after the toasting is complete == '' Bread grabbers will not keep the bread vertical or return it properly. Metal forks and electric heating coils don't mix, so don't try.'' === Floppy bread === If the bread won't come back up, try using a different bread that is maybe thicker or less pliable. === Bread orientation === If the bread is folding within the grabbers, the springs pushing the grabbers together could possibly be malfunctioning. This will require opening the toaster, you can follow this [guide|10831|Bread grabber spring guide], or one more specific to your device. == Constant burning smell == Avoid that "is something burning??" question every time you put a piece of bread in the toaster. === Crumb Tray === Most toasters will come with a crumb tray to allow the removal of some of the crumbs that may be causing the burning smell. Check on the bottom of the toaster for a metal tab to release the crumb tray plate (and crumbs!) over a trash can. Also try flipping the toaster upside down and, very gently, shaking the crumbs out. If your toaster needs a more in depth cleaning, try this [guide|10830|bread tray maintenance guide] or one more suited to your specific device. === Stuck debris === If there are bread crumbs on the coils themselves, ensure that the toaster is off and not connected to any power, then gently pry the crumbs out of the heating element. == Browning dial will not operate == ''Only a true toaster connoisseur can find that golden spot to make that golden toast, but your toast isn't turning out even close to what you wanted.'' === Jammed === If the browning dial will not move at all, crumbs may be stuck in the socket. Unplug the toaster and try to dislodge the debris by shaking the unit. === Dislodged/No communication === The dial may no longer be in communication with the device itself. This will require the opening of the toaster to see if there is something (i.e. a crumb) interfering with the browning dials inner workings or if you have a more serious problem on your hands. You may have to disassemble the toaster, you can follow a generic [guide|10829|toaster disassembly guide] or one more specific to your device.
[summary]Zie de Toaster-apparaatpagina terwijl we deze pagina bouwen.[/summary]
-Meer informatie en handleidingen vind je op de \[\[Topic\:Toaster|pagina van het broodroosterapparaat.]]
+Meer informatie en handleidingen vind je op de [[Topic\:Toaster|pagina van het broodroosterapparaat.]]
== Eén of meerdere zijden roosteren niet ==

Problemen met broodrooster oplossen

crwdns2934003:0crwdnd2934003:0Toon Koningscrwdnd2934003:031,1crwdns2936485:0crwdne2936485:0crwdne2934003:0

(crwdns2942739:0crwdne2942739:0)

crwdns2933983:0crwdne2933983:0

Crwdns2931665:0crwdne2931665:0 [title|Toaster Troubleshooting] [summary]See Toaster device page while we build out this page.[/summary] [summary_image|191601] Find more information and guides on [[Topic:Toaster|the toaster device page.]] == One or more sides won't toast == [image|368031|align=right] ''Running the toaster without toast, the wires on some sections glow red hot and some of the other wires don't.'' === Break in the nichrome wire === The glowing wire is called nichrome wire (for nickel-chromium), if part of the array does not heat there's a break in the wire somewhere. Possible causes of breakage: 1) there was a weak spot or nick in the wire when the wire was manufactured, 2) there was a weak spot or nick made in the wire when the toaster was manufactured (we've seen the break at or near a bend in the wire or a rivet point) 3) someone physically broke the wire by sticking something (like a fork) into the toaster. [image|368021|align=right|caption=An example of a nichrome wire break.] To Fix: You have to disassemble the toaster sufficiently to locate the break and then get good access to it. If you're lucky and there's enough extra wire, you might simply be able to twist the two broken ends together enough to re-establish contact (you can then at least confirm that's the problem.) [image|368040|align=right|caption=In the photo, we were able to short across one wrap of the nichrome a re-establish connectivity.] Otherwise, you need a high-temperature crimp and a crimping tool to to crimp the two ends together. Here are two examples of crimps: High-Temperature Crimp-on Butt Splice, [http://www.mcmaster.com/#7971k41/=sj9sy5|Noninsulated, 22-18 Awg], 900 Degree F Temperature Rating, Packs of 100 and High-Temperature Crimp-on Butt Splice, [http://www.mcmaster.com/#7971k42/=sj9tak|Noninsulated, 16-14 Awg], 900 Degree F Temperature Rating, Packs of 100 Note: The nichrome wire is wrapped around sheets of a brittle ceramic/mica-like material. Depending on where the break is you might find it necessary (or at least tempting) to cut this material. Be very careful, sawing might be better than cutting as it tends to flake. == Toasting lever won't stay down == ''When you push down the toasting lever, it pops right back up again, or you have to push it down multiple times, or hold it down for a little while before it will stay down.'' === Power source === Make sure that the toaster is plugged into a working outlet. === Power adjustment === The toaster's browning dial might be on too low of a setting to activate the heating coil. Try dialing it up, and pushing the lever down again. === Crumb obstruction === Constant use can lead to crumbs clogging the path of the lever. Try opening up the bottom panel, by pulling on the metal tab to release the plate (and crumbs!) over a trash can. Also try flipping the toaster upside down and, very gently, shaking the crumbs out. === Plug wire is frayed or damaged === To Test: Wiggle the plug wire near the plug to see if that makes a noticeable difference. If you can make any lights or display on the toaster flicker by wiggling the wire that's a clear sign there's an intermittent problem in the wire. Use a spare plug wire in lieu of the original one and see if that resolves the issue. To Fix: Replace the entire plug wire or just the plug. Background: we've seen this a couple of times: people yank the plug wire out of the wall socket by yanking on the cord, causing the stranded wires in the cord to break over time. It usually gets weak right near the base of the molded plug. If the toaster has lights or an LED display they may still light up and make the toaster look like it's getting electricity: it's just not getting enough electricity to run the toaster. [image|368036|align=right] Check the plug wire first before going to the effort of opening the toaster to clean the contacts. While this is a less common failure mode it's easier to check and will save you a lot of troubleshooting time. === Poor Contact Connection === There's an electrical contact near the toasting lever that is now carbonized due to too much electrical arcing and it's not letting any (or enough) electricity flow through. The contacts will look black or dulled on the inside. To Fix: Clean off the carbon from the contacts and the toaster will work again. We use an emery board and push it back and forth between the contacts until they're clean again and can conduct electricity. [image|368033|align=right|caption=Filing the lever contacts clean.] Additional Information: The arcing is due to slightly misaligned contacts that made it through poor quality control. The toaster works initially but over time electrical sparking between the contacts due to the misalignment creates carbon build up: that build-up is electrically insulating. There's a lot of current going through that contact because of the way a pop-up toaster works. When you push the toasting lever down it also makes contact with a solenoid (an electromagnet) that holds the lever down. The current for that electromagnet flows through the carbonized contact along with all the electricity to run the nichrome wire heating elements: not enough current and the electromagnet doesn't energize and the lever doesn't stay down. This problem is also common with electric hot water kettles where the button or lever or switch won't stay down. === Spring mechanism is blocked or broken === [guide|10832|Maintaining the spring] attached to the lever will remove debris that is potentially blocking the lever from connecting to the magnet == Toaster will not stay on == ''Its plugged in, I'm not that technically inept.'' === Outlet issues === First make sure that the outlet works by plugging other devices into that same outlet. === Power adjustment === The toaster's browning dial might be on too low of a setting to activate the heating coil. Try dialing it up, and pushing the lever down again. === Wire Malfunction === Visually check the wire for any punctures or abrasions. If you find damage on your power cord you should replace it. Follow this [guide|10849|power cord replacement guide], or one more specific to your device. == Toast won't pop up after the toasting is complete == '' Bread grabbers will not keep the bread vertical or return it properly. Metal forks and electric heating coils don't mix, so don't try.'' === Floppy bread === If the bread won't come back up, try using a different bread that is maybe thicker or less pliable. === Bread orientation === If the bread is folding within the grabbers, the springs pushing the grabbers together could possibly be malfunctioning. This will require opening the toaster, you can follow this [guide|10831|Bread grabber spring guide], or one more specific to your device. == Constant burning smell == Avoid that "is something burning??" question every time you put a piece of bread in the toaster. === Crumb Tray === Most toasters will come with a crumb tray to allow the removal of some of the crumbs that may be causing the burning smell. Check on the bottom of the toaster for a metal tab to release the crumb tray plate (and crumbs!) over a trash can. Also try flipping the toaster upside down and, very gently, shaking the crumbs out. If your toaster needs a more in depth cleaning, try this [guide|10830|bread tray maintenance guide] or one more suited to your specific device. === Stuck debris === If there are bread crumbs on the coils themselves, ensure that the toaster is off and not connected to any power, then gently pry the crumbs out of the heating element. == Browning dial will not operate == ''Only a true toaster connoisseur can find that golden spot to make that golden toast, but your toast isn't turning out even close to what you wanted.'' === Jammed === If the browning dial will not move at all, crumbs may be stuck in the socket. Unplug the toaster and try to dislodge the debris by shaking the unit. === Dislodged/No communication === The dial may no longer be in communication with the device itself. This will require the opening of the toaster to see if there is something (i.e. a crumb) interfering with the browning dials inner workings or if you have a more serious problem on your hands. You may have to disassemble the toaster, you can follow a generic [guide|10829|toaster disassembly guide] or one more specific to your device.
[summary]Zie de Toaster-apparaatpagina terwijl we deze pagina bouwen.[/summary]
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-Meer informatie en handleidingen vind je op de [[Topic\:Toaster|pagina van het broodroosterapparaat.]]
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