Now, we will connect the Parity Battery to the PCB as shown in the image of this step. Many things could go wrong here, so ensure that you have properly followed Step 2 and you are confident in handling a soldering iron for precision jobs.

Begin by heating up the two ends of the parity batteries cables to the point that the tinning on them starts to melt again. CAUTION: Be careful that you do not cause to much heat as it may adversely affect the battery itself.

Now start heating up the resistors terminals (circled in green on step 5) to the point that the solder on them starts to melt. CAUTION: Again, be careful how hot the terminals get. You don't want to damage the resistors OR the board itself. Also, too much heat may add extra resistance on the power coming from the battery, losing the SRAM data.

For the novices: The reason you need to heat up both ends of what you're soldering is because the solder itself needs to "Flow" onto both surfaces like liquid and that's only possible when they're hot. Looking at the solder terminals as they are now (the images in step 5), you can see how well those solders look. That's what we need to achieve.

This is your last warning: DO NOT MIX UP THE POSITIVE AND NEGATIVE ENDS OF THE PARITY BATTERY WHEN CONNECTING TO THE BOARD! You want the batteries in Parity, not Series.

Now, carefully solder the end of the parity batteries positive cable to the Higher resistor terminal. Ensure that the solder properly flows onto both the resistors pin AND the end of the parity batteries cable almost like liquid. Again, be careful about how much heat is applied. You need to melt the solder, but you must not damage anything.

Follow the same method for soldering the end of the parity batteries negative cable to the LOWER resistor terminal.

Once you feel the parity battery is properly attached to the terminals, let the solder cool for a minute or two.