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Keyboard removal - no broken glass!

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Keyboard removal - no broken glass!, Study a map: it's useful to know where the unseen, delicate parts are.: crwdns2935265:00crwdnd2935265:01crwdnd2935265:03crwdne2935265:0 Keyboard removal - no broken glass!, Study a map: it's useful to know where the unseen, delicate parts are.: crwdns2935265:00crwdnd2935265:02crwdnd2935265:03crwdne2935265:0 Keyboard removal - no broken glass!, Study a map: it's useful to know where the unseen, delicate parts are.: crwdns2935265:00crwdnd2935265:03crwdnd2935265:03crwdne2935265:0
Study a map: it's useful to know where the unseen, delicate parts are.
  • "Left", "right", etc. below refer to directions as seen when the device is oriented like a laptop in front of you.

  • Top-left, around 7cm (3in) from the corner, or ~2.5cm (1in) down the side: Thin ZIF interface cable for the whole keyboard/backlight/tablet.

  • Top, between 4.5 and 70cm (~2 and 3 inches) from the left corner: the flexible cable folds over here and is very close to the edge.

  • Left side, 1.5-4cm (~0.5-1.5 in) down from top: there's a folded layer of (I think) digitizer here. I didn't run into it, but careful to not cut too deep.

  • Left side, 12-15cm down from the top: there's a spot of copper foil protecting some delicate folded traces below.

  • Bottom, from left all the way to center: The wifi antennas are here. They are basically conductive paper, stuck onto a piece of plastic, with the screen adhesive stuck on top of that. I completely destroyed the first ones, and still damaged 1 of 3 on the second. Recommend not cutting here at all if possible.

  • My model is the YB1-X91F (Windows, Wifi only). I think the LTE versions might have antennas across the whole bottom, so keep in mind your hardware might be different.

  • Except for these two haptic vibration motors, you should not need to cut more than 4mm deep on the sides, and maybe 8mm deep on the top/bottom.

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