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Desmontaje de Jura Capresso IMPRESSA J5

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Jura Capresso IMPRESSA J5 Teardown: crwdns2935265:00crwdnd2935265:01crwdnd2935265:03crwdne2935265:0 Jura Capresso IMPRESSA J5 Teardown: crwdns2935265:00crwdnd2935265:02crwdnd2935265:03crwdne2935265:0 Jura Capresso IMPRESSA J5 Teardown: crwdns2935265:00crwdnd2935265:03crwdnd2935265:03crwdne2935265:0
  • Six screws labeled with the red circles need to be removed before the top can be taken off. One under each of the left and right top hinged covers, two under the top back cover and of the two under the ground coffee top door, the one nearest the water tank (the other one holds the chrome plastic to the top).

  • The original black screws were very hard to get out but I had luck with the needle nose pliers in my trusty Leatherman Charge model multi-tool. I tried with several alternative needle nose pliers.

  • There are specific Jura tools available from internet auction sites, tools that accept the slightly oval shaped heads of the recessed 'blind' screws. Just use oval head bit from iFixit.

  • I threw those screws away and replaced them with simple Phillips-head ones - that is why they appear silver in the photo while yours are probably black. I am pretty sure the manufacture does not want us to peek inside :o)

  • Note: when putting the top back on you need to align the position of the bean grinder adjustment knob with the linkage below. It should line up easily unless you accidentally moved it (marked with a green circle).

  • Taking a close-up photo of the mechanism, in 'macro' mode, is recommended. If you find the photo is too dark, set the flash to 'On', and place a finger over 3/4 of the flash light when you take the photo - since full flash would be far too intense for a close shot.

Hay que quitar cinco tornillos marcados con círculos rojos antes de poder sacar la tapa. Uno debajo de cada una de las tapas con bisagras superiores izquierda y derecha, dos debajo de la tapa trasera superior y, de los dos que están debajo de la puerta superior del café molido,

el más cercano al tanque de agua (el otro sujeta el plástico cromado a la parte superior).

Los tornillos negros originales eran muy difíciles de sacar, pero tuve suerte con los alicates de punta fina de mi confiable herramienta múltiple Leatherman modelo Charge. Probé con varios alicates de punta fina alternativos.

Hay herramientas Jura específicas disponibles en sitios de subastas de Internet, herramientas que aceptan las cabezas ligeramente ovaladas de los tornillos "ciegos" empotrados. Simplemente usa la punta ovalada de iFixit.

Tiré esos tornillos y los reemplacé con unos simples de cabeza Phillips; es por eso que aparecen plateados en la foto mientras que los tuyos probablemente sean negros. Estoy bastante seguro de que el fabricante no quiere que miremos adentro :o)

Nota: cuando vuelvas a colocar la tapa, debes alinear la posición de la perilla de ajuste del molinillo de granos con el enlace de abajo. Debería alinearse fácilmente a menos que lo hayas movido accidentalmente (marcado con un círculo verde).

Se recomienda tomar una fotografía de cerca del mecanismo, en modo "macro". Si la fotografía te parece demasiado oscura, activa el flash y coloca un dedo sobre 3/4 de la luz del flash cuando tomes la fotografía, ya que el flash a máxima potencia sería demasiado intenso para una fotografía de cerca.

-[* black] Five screws labeled with the red circles need to be removed before the top can be taken off. One under each of the left and right top hinged covers, two under the top back cover and of the two under the ground coffee top door, the one nearest the water tank (the other one holds the chrome plastic to the top).
+[* black] Six screws labeled with the red circles need to be removed before the top can be taken off. One under each of the left and right top hinged covers, two under the top back cover and of the two under the ground coffee top door, the one nearest the water tank (the other one holds the chrome plastic to the top).
[* black] The original black screws were very hard to get out but I had luck with the needle nose pliers in my trusty Leatherman Charge model multi-tool. I tried with several alternative needle nose pliers.
[* black] There are specific Jura tools available from internet auction sites, tools that accept the slightly oval shaped heads of the recessed 'blind' screws. Just use [product|IF145-373-76|oval head bit|new_window=true] from iFixit.
[* black] I threw those screws away and replaced them with simple Phillips-head ones - that is why they appear silver in the photo while yours are probably black. I am pretty sure the manufacture does not want us to peek inside :o)
[* black] ***''Note:''*** when putting the top back on you need to align the position of the bean grinder adjustment knob with the linkage below. It should line up easily unless you accidentally moved it (marked with a green circle).
[* black] Taking a close-up photo of the mechanism, in 'macro' mode, is recommended. If you find the photo is too dark, set the flash to 'On', and place a finger over 3/4 of the flash light when you take the photo - since full flash would be far too intense for a close shot.

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