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Remplacement de l'assemblage du circuit imprimé du bouton supérieur du Logitech G700s

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Logitech G700s Top Button PCB Assembly Replacement: crwdns2935265:00crwdnd2935265:01crwdnd2935265:03crwdne2935265:0 Logitech G700s Top Button PCB Assembly Replacement: crwdns2935265:00crwdnd2935265:02crwdnd2935265:03crwdne2935265:0 Logitech G700s Top Button PCB Assembly Replacement: crwdns2935265:00crwdnd2935265:03crwdnd2935265:03crwdne2935265:0

  • Desolder the header pins. Desolder while the screws and mounting hardware in the next two steps are still attached, so the board is more stable.

  • Pay attention to the plastic parts near the header. Find a comfortable position where your iron isn't likely to come into contact with the plastic parts, as they will melt if the iron comes into contact with them.

  • Use plenty of flux. I find engineer SS-02 solder sucker to be much less frustrating to use, since its cylinder has O-ring seals and pulls a good suction. It also has a flexible heat resistant tip that allows you to press it against the PCB and the iron.

  • Look straight down and check that there most of the solder between the pin and the sidewall is removed. Push each pin sideways to make sure it is detached.

  • If there are still significant amount of solder, reheat the joint and try sucking again.

  • If it looks mostly clear but the pin is still attached, try pushing the pin to the opposite wall (where it is clearly detached) with a moderate amount of force. (Do not force it too much though or you risk damaging the through hole plating)

  • If it doesn't budge with a moderate amount of force, try using the iron to push on the pin the same way. If it attaches to another part, then the solder isn't sucked up enough.

  • Optionally, you may want to mod the PCB to use a socket to connect between the top and bottom, so it will be easier to access in the future. You will need to replace or cut short the header pins. It uses 2.0mm pitch 2x7 headers. There is approximately 7.2mm between the boards. I used Molex 87758-1450 pins and Amphenol 63453-114LF socket.

Dessoudez les broches d'en-tête. Dessoudez pendant que les vis et le matériel de montage des deux prochaines étapes sont toujours attachés, de sorte que la carte soit plus stable.

Faites attention aux pièces en plastique près de l'en-tête. Trouvez une position confortable où votre fer ne risque pas d'entrer en contact avec les pièces en plastique, car elles fondront si le fer entre en contact avec elles.

Utilisez beaucoup de flux. Je trouve que la ventouse à souder de l'ingénieur SS-02 est beaucoup moins frustrante à utiliser, car son cylindre a des joints toriques et tire une bonne aspiration. Il possède également une pointe flexible résistante à la chaleur qui vous permet de le presser contre le circuit imprimé et le fer.

Regardez vers le bas et vérifiez que la majeure partie de la soudure entre la broche et la paroi latérale a été retirée. Poussez chaque goupille sur le côté pour vous assurer qu'elle est détachée.

S'il y a encore une quantité importante de soudure, réchauffez le joint et essayez à nouveau d'aspirer.

S'il semble généralement clair mais que la goupille est toujours attachée, essayez de pousser la goupille vers le mur opposé (où elle est clairement détachée) avec une force modérée. (Ne forcez pas trop ou vous risquez d'endommager le placage du trou traversant)

S'il ne bouge pas avec une force modérée, essayez d'utiliser le fer pour pousser sur la goupille de la même manière. S'il s'attache à une autre pièce, la soudure n'est pas assez aspirée.

Vous devrez remplacer ou raccourcir les broches d'en-tête. Il utilise des en-têtes 2x7 au pas de 2,0 mm. Il y a environ 7,2 mm entre les planches. J'ai utilisé des broches Molex 87758-1450 et une prise Amphenol 63453-114LF.

[* red] Desolder the header pins. Desolder while the screws and mounting hardware in the next two steps are still attached, so the board is more stable.
[* icon_caution] Pay attention to the plastic parts near the header. Find a comfortable position where your iron isn't likely to come into contact with the plastic parts, as they will melt if the iron comes into contact with them.
- [* icon_note] Use plenty of flux. I find engineer SS-02 solder sucker to be much less frustrating to use, since its cylinder has O-ring seals and pulls a good suction. It also has a flexible heat resistant tip that allows you to press it against the PCB and the iron.
+ [* icon_note] Use plenty of flux. I find engineer SS-02 [product|IF145-473|solder sucker] to be much less frustrating to use, since its cylinder has O-ring seals and pulls a good suction. It also has a flexible heat resistant tip that allows you to press it against the PCB and the iron.
[* green] Look straight down and check that there most of the solder between the pin and the sidewall is removed. Push each pin sideways to make sure it is detached.
[* icon_note] If there are still significant amount of solder, reheat the joint and try sucking again.
[* green] If it looks mostly clear but the pin is still attached, try pushing the pin to the opposite wall (where it is clearly detached) with a moderate amount of force. (Do not force it too much though or you risk damaging the through hole plating)
[* green] If it doesn't budge with a moderate amount of force, try using the iron to push on the pin the same way. If it attaches to another part, then the solder isn't sucked up enough.
[* black] Optionally, you may want to mod the PCB to use a socket to connect between the top and bottom, so it will be easier to access in the future. You will need to replace or cut short the header pins. It uses 2.0mm pitch 2x7 headers. There is approximately 7.2mm between the boards. I used Molex 87758-1450 pins and Amphenol 63453-114LF socket.

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