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Use this guide to replace your iPad's battery.
If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions.
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If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.
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Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad's display until the whole face is covered.
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Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.
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Insert a metal spudger between the right edge of the display assembly and the rear panel assembly.
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Rotate the spudger away from you to release the tabs along the top edge of the display.
Ok, a word of caution that can't be overstated. The off screen switch, the lock swith, and the volume switch can all be broken easily. I would stay away from this area completely. The bracket on the off switch is tack welded and can be broken. The volume/lock swith can be malformed to become unusable. So avoid the area and you will be better off.
Most of the spring clips mounted to the digitizer panel (sandwitched between the LCD display mount tabs and digitizer frame) are guaranteed to break. I recommend just purchasing a set (I found on one Amazon for less then $6). With that said, even though I broke most of mine while removing the glass panel/frame assembly, I was able to remount the glass. It seems fairly secure, but I'm going to put the iPad (3G/Wifi) in a case, anyway.
Pas besoin de pistolet a chaleur, il faut juste faire sauter les clips qui maintiennent l'ensemble écran et LCD. Bien commencer par la droite, car se sont juste des picots en plastique a faire sauter par dessus le rebord en alu, puis soulever la partie du bas en cassant les 4 clips ( pas moyen de les garder entier). Ensuite la partie gauche (avec 6 clips) se détachera facilement. La partie haute n'est pas éclipser mais retenus par un cable.
Yes, most of the clips break easily, but I was able to reassemble the iPad by putting the left side in first at an angle, and then snapping in the rest of it. Even though most of the clips break, it still holds together pretty tight.
not all clips break, and there are so many clips that despite breaking 2-3 clips it still fitted in nicely, if you do not have a metal spudger you can use any pack of screw drivers whose other end looks like the metal spudger, that’s about it, as far the instruction goes they are good for battery replacement.
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Insert a second metal spudger between the top edge of the display assembly and the rear panel assembly to keep the tabs from snapping back into place.
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Pry the display assembly away from the rear panel.
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Continue prying the display assembly away from the rear panel along the bottom and left edges of the iPad.
Be very careful as the left side has plastic pins that go into the cover, the right side and bottom have metal clips which break easily.
After unlocking the left side, pull away from the right side, as to save the metal clips.
During reassembly, it can be difficult to get the clips back into the body. I found that I had to put two (sturdy) metal spudgers on either side of the lower-right clip in order to gain enough space to get the clip into the body. Even then it required a fair amount of force (obviously not so much as to damage the display).
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Lift the display assembly away from the rear panel assembly by its bottom edge.
There are four black angle metal foil corner pieces that just fall out of the case. They are about 4 mm long and 2mm on each leg. Have no clue what they do or where they go.
That's probably broken Metal Display Clips. Easy to replace, but you'll need to purchase a set of new clips. Luckily, they're not expensive :-)
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The display data cable may be glued into place along the right and top side of the right battery. You should use an iPod opening tool to pry it away from the adhesive. This will allow you to get a wider opening between the display and iPad body in order to access and remove other cables.
The photo above is the Wi-Fi version because the cellular communication board is missing in the photo. As I lifted the display, following the instructions, one of the cellular antennas snapped right out of the copper connector exposing bare wire. No big deal because it is an iPad 1 and no one would ever use cellular with an original iPad anyway. Not these days. But be very careful lifting the display because the antenna wires for the cellular board are very short and break easily.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the antenna connector closest to the bottom of the iPad up off its socket on the communications board.
The antenna cable is easily broken when separating the screen from body.
The whole antenna can be purchased for about $5 new on eBay.
Is there a tutorial? Mine broke and I did buy part. However, only thing I find is how to replace lcd. Just need how to replace 3G antenna.
I just need how to replace 3G antenna. Is there a tutorial? Mine broke and I did buy part. However, only thing that I find online is how to replace lcd.
There are 2 small cable with golden connector plugged into the sockets,
unfortunately the lower one the cable and golden connector is broken when I move the display assembly off, what shall I do to fix it:-(
Some know the function of these 2 cable? My lower cable broken with the golden connector...
Mine broke and I simply soldered a new one on the bottom part of the old one, where the plastic wire cover ended. It worked. :)
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In the following steps, you will disconnect the three cables attaching the display assembly to the logic board. The cables are for the following components:
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Digitizer
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Ambient Light Sensor
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Display Data Cable
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Use the edge of an iPod opening tool to flip up the retaining flaps holding the digitizer ribbon cables in their sockets on the logic board.
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Pull the digitizer ribbon cables straight out of their sockets.
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Use an iPod opening tool to remove the ambient light sensor connector from its socket by gently prying upward.
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Disconnect the display data cable from the main board by flipping up the metal retainer by its black plastic pull tab.
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Pull the cable connector away from its socket.
For iPad Wifi Users, there is a ‘3D Antenna’’ cable that also needs to be removed. This is not covered in this tutorial. Here is a YouTube link to that covers this procedure. https://youtu.be/iD8kGSD5r0A
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Remove the display assembly from the rear panel assembly.
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Use the edge of an iPod opening tool to carefully pry the remaining antenna connector up off the communications board.
Replacing the communications board is a very delicate process. Be warned. I got to this point with only a bracket or two broken and when reseating the communications board, one of the connector wafers cracked. Hopefully it will still work but I suspect I will need to find a replacement.
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De-route the control button cable along the top edge of the communications board.
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Pull the communications cable upward to lift its connector up and out of the socket on the logic board.
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Remove the single T5 Torx screw securing the communications board to the rear case.
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Pull the communications board away from its socket on the logic board.
There is some strong adhesive along the upper right corner of the control board holding in place to the bottom cover. I found that some drops of alcohol along that edge and slightly lifting gently with a spudger will release the adhesive enough for you to slide the control board out of the socket.
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Carefully peel back the rubber EMI shield covering the GPS antenna socket.
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Use the edge of an iPod opening tool to flip up the GPS ribbon cable retaining flap attached to the GPS cable's socket on the logic board.
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Pull the GPS antenna ribbon cable out of its socket.
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Use the edge of an iPod opening tool to pry up the retaining flap on the headphone jack/microphone socket.
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Pull the headphone jack/microphone ribbon cable out of its socket.
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Use an iPod opening tool to pry the SIM board connector up off its socket on the logic board.
Some iPads have a black tape that keeps the connector in place, you will have to remove it.
Cut the tape holding the SIM board connector to the logic board.
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Fold the SIM cable toward the bottom of the iPad to access the speaker connector.
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Use the edge of an iPod opening tool to pry the speaker connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.
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Remove the following screws securing the logic board to the rear panel assembly.
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Two 4.56 mm T5 Torx screws.
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Two 3.76 mm T5 Torx screws.
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Use the edge of an iPod opening tool to carefully pry the dock cable connector straight up off the logic board.
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Lift the logic board out of the rear panel assembly.
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Use the edge of an iPod opening tool to release the SIM board from the adhesive securing it to the rear case.
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Remove the SIM board from your iPad.
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Remove the two 2.84 mm T5 Torx screws securing the speaker assembly to the rear panel assembly.
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Remove the single T5 Torx screw securing the middle of the dock cable to the rear panel assembly.
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Remove the two 2.84 mm T5 Torx screws securing the dock connector cable to the rear case.
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Using an iPod opening tool, carefully remove the plastic cover shielding the WiFi/Bluetooth board and dock connector cable.
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Carefully pry the Wi-Fi and Bluetooth antennas up from their respective sockets on the Wi-Fi/Bluetooth board.
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Lift the dock connector cable out of the rear panel assembly.
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De-route the speaker cable from the left side of the battery case.
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De-route the Wi-Fi antenna through its channel in the speaker assembly.
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Lift the speaker assembly and push it forward until the ports clear the bottom side of the lower case.
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Remove the speaker assembly from the rear panel assembly.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to gently pry the battery up from the the lower case.
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Gently continue to enlarge the gap by wiggling the spudger and running it along the right side of the battery.
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Continue to pry until the right side of the battery is free from the rear panel.
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Insert the flat end of a spudger under the top edge of the battery and continue to separate the adhesive.
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Continue doing so until the top of the battery is free from the rear panel.
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When there is enough clearance, use your hands to peel the battery off any adhesive still securing it to the rear panel.
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Remove the battery from the rear panel.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
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Everything done, battery charges but screen not responsive to touch when trying to input password. It switches on/off fine and I'm able to swipe the lock button but can't input password. Any suggestions? Thanks.
Battery replacement of my son's 2011 iPad 1. Once more invaluable help from ifixit as with an earlier G5 Dual 2.5 and also an iMac 27.
After the battery replacement some non responsive areas on the touch screen. Review revealed I had not relocked the digizer cable and once I did this with yet more replacement clips applied then a return to perfect function. Thanks for the invaluable help. Steve Henderson, Perth, Australia.
Great tutorial.
One thing i am not sure how to do is the battery pack itself, Where will i find the adhesive ? Thank you.
Cedric H.
You don’t need adhesive with a new battery pack. It will hold in place with the existing adhesive and once the iPad is reassembled, it won’t fall apart.
I replaced the battery in my old iPad 1 Cellular model. What a PITA. You’ll break most of the clips, but it still holds together pretty well. There is a high risk of breaking the cellular antenna wires because the photo in this guide opening the display is for the Wi-Fi version, leaving out the location of the cellular board and the short length of the antenna wires. So one of the cellular wires broke the moment I raised the display, unaware that the wires were short. The wire pulled right out of the copper connector. No big deal. I replaced the battery just for fun to see if I could resurrect this old iPad that would no longer turn on. So I did it and it is back together and everything works except cell service, but I would never use cell service with it anyway. Wi-Fi works because the antenna is the Apple logo. Nice to boot up iOS 5.1.1, but it is worthless these days.
My old 3G iPad 1st generation won’t turn on because it needs a new battery. Trying to decide if it’s worth spending the money to replace the battery myself. Guess it could still be used to watch movies on Netflix via wifi and view pics.
Hello! All went well until first power-up after reassembly. Screen looks fine, even got the right date/time but no touch response. What to do? Check digitizer cables?
Hi there, from what you described I would say to re-seat the digitizer flex cable, it would be going in the 2 connectors in upper left (left side of the logic board) Might be just bad connection there.
I needed this guide so that I could access my Alchemy Synth app (which is now unavailable on the App Store). I ordered my battery, followed the instructions, and now I am on cloud nine! Thank you so much for this information.
these instructions have worked out great. thank you
just finished. I would not have thought it would be that many steps.
If you prefer to watch a video of disassembly/reassembly, I have successfully completed the whole process ;) You can see it here:
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Apple iPad 1st Gen No Power Fix - disassembly & battery replacement (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3eEbdCMr...)
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So you can see screen removal and reattachment, motherboard removal, battery replacement etc. This even includes replacement for the infamous screen clips ;)
The clips WILL break, at least some of them, so don't stress about that. These are cheap to replace, but if you don't have somewhere to source it from you can usually get by with the remaining intact clips. You really don't need all of them to be in place! You may want to re-distribute the clips though, as often you will have one side with almost all clips intact, and one side where all clips are broken.
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