iPad 3 4G Logic Board Replacement
crwdns2944107:0crwdnd2944107:0Brett Harttcrwdnd2944107:0crwdnd2944107:0crwdnd2944107:04crwdnd2944107:0crwdne2944107:0
crwdns2944111:0Mud 6, 2024crwdne2944111:0
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crwdns2942287:0crwdne2942287:0Use this guide to replace the logic board.
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Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave.
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Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.
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Throughout the repair procedure, as the iOpener cools, reheat it in the microwave for an additional thirty seconds at a time.
I had to heat mine up for more than 30 seconds. After 30 seconds on high it was only warm. It had to keep trying different times and checking it until it got hot. I think the initial time that I put it in for was over a minute.
DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.
I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.
There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener things....no details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(
All phones/devices differ it’s unrealistic and unsafe to put a exact time/temperature needed to soften the adhesive. It’s really quite simple you warm the device evenly and in a controlled manner just enough to enable pry tools and picks to begin separating. Best tool in my opinion but again this is because I have experience is a hot plate and heat gun both of which are used at nearly the lowest settings and I can handle flat palming the plate for almost 10 seconds I leave the device to conduct heat until approx it’s about 110 at most 120 ish this will be plenty to soften all the adhesive if any problem areas I use heat gun while prying. Again you need go slowly and learn with a throw away phone
I used a hot water bottle, works well as it covers the whole screen and stays hot for longer.
Now that is a very good idea :) I was going to use a hairdryer
Maz -
If I may suggest include your microwave wattage so people can get an idea on time for there own
I agree with this.
I ended up using a hair dryer. That iOpener thing took forever.
30 seconds sure isn’t cutting it… 45 didn’t get the screen of my iPad air 2 to budge either… even after resting on the ipad for 4 minutes.
60 seconds in the microwave, the iOpener burst.
I’ll get a new one and try once more with heating it 45 seconds and repeat that for 30 minutes like others have said here. If that doesn’t work it’ll have to be the heat gun.
K
I can’t recommend the microwave. If the the iOpener becomes too hot, it bursts. Better put the opener in cooking water. Dry it and use it. Instead of an iOpener you can use hot/cool packs as well.
Great idea with using the heat packs. I will try that next time. Thank you
Collins -
Trust the directions! I forgot and left it in the Microwave too long and after 1 minute I had Mt Vesuvius - the iOpener burst and spewed the goodies out. The problem is, the Digitizer can be damaged by a hot air gun, so I had to tough out and remove the glue the hard way. I made it … with lots of patience! Tough lesson.
I also used a hairdryer. I used it on the low setting and I cut a piece of carboard to protect the rest of the screen. The iFixit tool and method is vert tedious and very time consuming in comparison. With the hairdryer method you can literally have the display apart in a few minutes. Using your other hand nearby the area you are heating it should be very hot but not enough to burn your hand. You only have to heat metal part of case near glass edge. If you have a cellular model then you need to be very careful because the black antenna area is plastic. So less heat and work your way up in adding heat just enough to separate around the area but not so much you melt the plastic!
iOpener was the worst part of the kit. Followed directions for :30 in microwave and took 4 trips to the microwave to loosen adhesive on left side of home button. I thought I was figuring it out and it was working well… even set a timer to wait 10 minutes between heating it up. Was on the right side and was on my 12th heat up when it exploded in the microwave. My only tip is that if you set it clear side up, as soon as you see any bubbles or boiling in the liquid, STOP! If you put a pot holder over the iOpener and press slightly to make good surface contact, that seemed to help. I finished heating with a “Corn Sack” that held heat better than the provided iOpener.
Mon iopener n'a pas tenu une réparation. Je ne vous conseille pas ce produit
Bonjour,
Nous sommes désolés que votre réparation ne se soit pas déroulée comme prévu. Il se peut que le produit était défectueux. Veuillez contacter notre service client support@ifixit.com (boutique américaine) ou eustore@ifixit.com (boutique européenne) en décrivant ce qui s’est passé.
Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.
Thank you for posting some actual temperatures. I have a heat gun with a very fine self-temperature regulation setting capability.
I will set it for 150-180 F, and use that to soften the adhesive.
Get a heat gun.
I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. A second heating about 15 minutes later in the micro and it came out at 190 degrees F. Plenty hot enough to soften the adhesive for removing the back on my S8. Based on the comments above I think people just need to use more patience.
I used various time settings. It got very hot. It would soften the glue but not a whole lot. If my screen had been intact and I was replacing something that was not a digitizer, it may have worked. A broken screen makes the process significantly more difficult. I ended up breaking the home button cable. Good bye TouchID…
After reading previous comments I didn't even use the i-opener. Used the heatgun ( hairdryer ) which works great for me. Maybe I was lucky as this is my first attempt at replacing a cellphone battery. Motoz 3
It appeared 30 seconds were not enough, so I heated it more, by 5 seconds at a time until I got the right temperature about 70 degrees Celsius (measured with infrared pistol) to get the screen heated up to 60 C, the best for softening the glue. But the heat was quickly dissipating by the big aluminum back cover, so the best I got in 2 minutes of applying iOpener was around 45 C, which made the procedure difficult and having risk of breaking the screen. So I eventually abandoned iOpener and user a hot air gun with precise temperature setup. I set it to 90 C, which allowed me to open my iPad quickly and safely.
I, too, ended up using a hot air gun. I’ve done earlier versions of iPad before but the adhesive used on this IPad 5 A1822 was particularly difficult to remove.
Also, while the suction cup worked great when the glass is in tact, any cracks in the glass make the suction cup useless.
You need to remember here are different sizes of microwaves. I had the same issue.
Heating on a smaller unit I used 45-60 seconds. That worked but was time comsuming
Yeah, the iOpener didn't work for me either.... ended up using a hair dryer and that worked. The iOpener was too warm to soften the glue in my case.
I had a rotating plate microwave for my repair, and heating the iOpener 30-40 seconds worked plenty well for me.
I tried 600W microwave for 30 sec and it was nicely warm, did nothing on iPad. Added 10 more sec, bit warmer, another 20 sec and it was finally a bit hot to hot in the hand - but still didn't do anything on iPad. I switched to a hair dryer as I used to work with it before, while being a bit sad about not using this brand new iOpener tool. And I found it short on 12.9 iPad anyway, maybe next time.
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Remove the iOpener from the microwave, holding it by one of the two flat ends to avoid the hot center.
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Fill a pot or pan with enough water to fully submerge an iOpener.
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Heat the water to a boil. Turn off the heat.
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Place an iOpener into the hot water for 2-3 minutes. Make sure the iOpener is fully submerged in the water.
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Use tongs to extract the heated iOpener from the hot water.
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Thoroughly dry the iOpener with a towel.
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Your iOpener is ready for use! If you need to reheat the iOpener, heat the water to a boil, turn off the heat, and place the iOpener in the water for 2-3 minutes.
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If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.
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Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad's display until the whole face is covered.
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Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.
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Lay the iOpener flat on the right edge of the iPad, smoothing it out so that there is good contact between the surface of the iPad and the iOpener.
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Let the bag sit on the iPad for approximately 90 seconds before attempting to open the front panel.
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There is a small gap in the iPad's adhesive ring in the upper right corner of the iPad, approximately 2.0 inches (~5 cm) from the top of the iPad. You are going to exploit this weakness.
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Align the tool with the mute button. Insert the tip of a plastic opening tool into the gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just insert the very tip of the opening tool, just enough to widen the crack.
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Make sure you place the tool in the proper spot—between the plastic display bezel and the front panel glass.
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Keeping the tip of the plastic opening tool wedged between the front glass and plastic bezel, slide a plastic opening pick in the gap, right next to the plastic opening tool.
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Remove the plastic opening tool from the iPad, and push the opening pick further underneath the front glass to a depth of ~0.5 inches.
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While you work on releasing the adhesive on the right side of the iPad, reheat the iOpener, and replace it on the bottom edge of the iPad.
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While the bottom edge is being heated by the iOpener, begin releasing the adhesive from the right edge of the iPad.
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Slide the opening pick down along the edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.
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If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, "roll" the pick along the side of the iPad, continuing to release the adhesive.
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Before removing the first opening pick from the bottom corner of the iPad, insert a second pick under the right edge of the front glass to keep the adhesive from re-adhering.
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Re-heat the iOpener, and move it to the top edge of the iPad.
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You will have to release the adhesive securing the antenna to the front panel without damaging the delicate parts attaching the antenna to the bottom of the iPad. Follow the next steps carefully.
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Slide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of the iPad, releasing the adhesive there.
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Slide the tip of the opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive over the Wi-Fi antenna.
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Once you have moved past the Wi-FI antenna (approximately 3" (75 mm) from the right edge, or right next to the home button) re-insert the opening pick to its full depth.
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Slide the pick to the right, releasing the adhesive securing the Wi-Fi antenna to the front glass.
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The antenna is attached to the bottom of the iPad via screws and a cable. This step detaches the antenna from the front panel, ensuring that when you remove the panel, the antenna will not be damaged.
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Continue releasing the adhesive along the bottom of the iPad, pulling the opening pick out far enough to go around the home button, and re-inserting it to a depth of 1/2 inch (10 mm) once the pick is past the home button.
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Continue releasing the adhesive all the way along the bottom edge of the iPad.
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Leave the opening pick wedged underneath the front glass near the home button.
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Reheat the iOpener in the microwave and set it on the left edge of the iPad to start warming the adhesive in that section.
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Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, pulling it out slightly to go around the front-facing camera bracket.
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The adhesive along this section is very thick, and a fair amount of force may be required. Work carefully and slowly, making sure to not slip and damage yourself or your iPad.
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Continue releasing the adhesive along the top edge of the iPad, and slide the opening pick around the top left corner.
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Slide the opening pick along the left edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go. The adhesive is thin here due to the digitizer along the whole left side. Make sure the pick is not too deep (max 1/2 inch) 10 mm to prevent damaging the digitizer.
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Using the opening pick that is still underneath the bottom edge of the iPad, release the adhesive along the bottom left corner.
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Using one of the opening picks, pry up the bottom right corner of the iPad and grab it with your fingers.
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Holding the iPad by the top and bottom right corners, rotate the front glass away from the iPad.
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Remove the four 2 mm Phillips #00 screws securing the LCD to the aluminum frame.
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Using a plastic opening tool or a spudger, lift the right edge of the LCD out of the iPad.
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Rotate the LCD along its left edge and lay it down on top of the front panel.
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Using the tip of a spudger, peel back the piece of tape covering the LCD ribbon cable connector.
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Flip up the retaining flap on the LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector.
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Using your fingers or a pair of tweezers, pull the LCD ribbon cable from its socket on the logic board.
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Without touching the front of the LCD, lift the LCD off the front panel.
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Using the tip of a spudger, peel back the piece of tape that secures the touchscreen ribbon cable to the logic board.
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Flip up the retaining flap on both of the touchscreen ribbon cable ZIF connectors.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to loosen the adhesive underneath the digitizer ribbon cable.
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Pull the digitizer ribbon cable straight out of its sockets on the logic board.
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Peel back the touchscreen ribbon cable and use the flat end of a spudger to release the adhesive securing the cable to the rear aluminum case.
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Using your fingers, pull the touchscreen ribbon cable out of its recess in the aluminum frame.
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Remove the front panel from the iPad.
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Peel back and remove the piece of electrical tape covering the headphone jack assembly cable connector.
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Using the tip of a spudger, flip up the retaining flap on both of the ZIF connectors securing the headphone jack cable to the logic board.
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Slide the flat end of a spudger underneath the headphone jack assembly cable, releasing the adhesive securing it to the rear aluminum frame.
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Pull the headphone jack assembly cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.
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Peel back and remove the piece of tape covering the SIM board cable ZIF connector.
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Flip up the retaining flap on the SIM board cable ZIF connector.
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Using the tip of a spudger, pull the SIM board cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.
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Disconnect the following connectors from their respective sockets on the logic board:
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Wi-Fi antenna cable
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Speaker connector cable.
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Dock connector cable.
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Remove the following seven screws securing the logic board to the rear aluminum panel.
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Six 2.1mm Phillips #00
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One 2.5mm Phillips #00
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Holding the logic board by the side nearest the dock connector, carefully pull the logic board toward the bottom of the iPad.
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Flip the logic board over, minding any cables that may get caught.
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Using the tip of a spudger, remove the three antenna connectors from their sockets on the logic board.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
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Where can I purchase a logic board for an ipad 3 4g?
can be reused the right part of the logic board (the one connected on the sim ) in a new motherboard only wifi ?
