crwdns2915892:0crwdne2915892:0
This guide has been updated by iFixit staff. See the official guide here.
Use this guide to replace a broken cable for the power, mute, and volume up/down buttons on the right side of the iPad 2.
This is a very difficult repair. To gain access to this cable, you must first remove the front panel, LCD, and the rear camera.
crwdns2942213:0crwdne2942213:0
-
-
Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave.
-
-
-
Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.
-
Throughout the repair procedure, as the iOpener cools, reheat it in the microwave for an additional thirty seconds at a time.
-
-
-
Remove the iOpener from the microwave, holding it by one of the two flat ends to avoid the hot center.
-
-
-
Fill a pot or pan with enough water to fully submerge an iOpener.
-
Heat the water to a boil. Turn off the heat.
-
Place an iOpener into the hot water for 2-3 minutes. Make sure the iOpener is fully submerged in the water.
-
Use tongs to extract the heated iOpener from the hot water.
-
Thoroughly dry the iOpener with a towel.
-
Your iOpener is ready for use! If you need to reheat the iOpener, heat the water to a boil, turn off the heat, and place the iOpener in the water for 2-3 minutes.
-
-
-
If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.
-
Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad's display until the whole face is covered.
-
Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.
-
-
crwdns2935267:0crwdne2935267:0Safety Glasses$3.19
-
Lay the iOpener flat on the right edge of the iPad, smoothing it out so that there is good contact between the surface of the iPad and the iOpener.
-
Let the bag sit on the iPad for approximately 90 seconds before attempting to open the front panel.
-
-
-
There is a small gap in the iPad's adhesive ring in the upper right corner of the iPad, approximately 2.0 inches (~5 cm) from the top of the iPad. You are going to exploit this weakness.
-
Align the tool with the mute button. Insert the tip of a plastic opening tool into the gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just insert the very tip of the opening tool, just enough to widen the crack.
-
-
-
Make sure you place the tool in the proper spot—between the plastic display bezel and the front panel glass.
-
-
-
Keeping the tip of the plastic opening tool wedged between the front glass and plastic bezel, slide a plastic opening pick in the gap, right next to the plastic opening tool.
-
-
-
Remove the plastic opening tool from the iPad, and push the opening pick further underneath the front glass to a depth of ~0.5 inches.
-
-
-
While you work on releasing the adhesive on the right side of the iPad, reheat the iOpener, and replace it on the bottom edge of the iPad.
-
-
-
While the bottom edge is being heated by the iOpener, begin releasing the adhesive from the right edge of the iPad.
-
Slide the opening pick down along the edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.
-
-
-
If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, "roll" the pick along the side of the iPad, continuing to release the adhesive.
-
-
-
Before removing the first opening pick from the bottom corner of the iPad, insert a second pick under the right edge of the front glass to keep the adhesive from re-adhering.
-
Re-heat the iOpener, and move it to the top edge of the iPad.
-
-
-
-
You will have to release the adhesive securing the antenna to the front panel without damaging the delicate parts attaching the antenna to the bottom of the iPad. Follow the next steps carefully.
-
-
-
Slide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of the iPad, releasing the adhesive there.
-
-
-
Slide the tip of the opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive over the Wi-Fi antenna.
-
-
-
Once you have moved past the Wi-FI antenna (approximately 3" (75 mm) from the right edge, or right next to the home button) re-insert the opening pick to its full depth.
-
Slide the pick to the right, releasing the adhesive securing the Wi-Fi antenna to the front glass.
-
The antenna is attached to the bottom of the iPad via screws and a cable. This step detaches the antenna from the front panel, ensuring that when you remove the panel, the antenna will not be damaged.
-
-
-
Continue releasing the adhesive along the bottom of the iPad, pulling the opening pick out far enough to go around the home button, and re-inserting it to a depth of 1/2 inch (10 mm) once the pick is past the home button.
-
-
-
Continue releasing the adhesive all the way along the bottom edge of the iPad.
-
Leave the opening pick wedged underneath the front glass near the home button.
-
-
-
Reheat the iOpener in the microwave and set it on the left edge of the iPad to start warming the adhesive in that section.
-
-
-
Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, pulling it out slightly to go around the front-facing camera bracket.
-
The adhesive along this section is very thick, and a fair amount of force may be required. Work carefully and slowly, making sure to not slip and damage yourself or your iPad.
-
-
-
Continue releasing the adhesive along the top edge of the iPad, and slide the opening pick around the top left corner.
-
-
-
Slide the opening pick along the left edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go. The adhesive is thin here due to the digitizer along the whole left side. Make sure the pick is not too deep (max 1/2 inch) 10 mm to prevent damaging the digitizer.
-
-
-
Using the opening pick that is still underneath the bottom edge of the iPad, release the adhesive along the bottom left corner.
-
-
-
Using one of the opening picks, pry up the bottom right corner of the iPad and grab it with your fingers.
-
-
crwdns2935267:0crwdne2935267:0Microfiber Cleaning Cloths$3.99
-
Holding the iPad by the top and bottom right corners, rotate the front glass away from the iPad.
-
-
-
Remove the four 2.0 mm Phillips screws securing the LCD to the rear case.
-
-
-
Lift the LCD from its long edge closest to the volume buttons and rotate it out of the rear case.
-
Lay the LCD on the front panel as seen in the second picture.
-
-
-
Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to flip up the metal retaining clip securing the display data cable to its socket on the logic board.
-
-
-
Pull the display data cable out of its socket on the logic board.
-
-
-
Remove the LCD assembly from the iPad 2.
-
-
-
Carefully peel the rubber cover off the metal camera retainer and remove it from the iPad 2.
-
-
-
Remove the following two screws:
-
One 3.3 mm Phillips screw
-
One 2.1 mm Phillips screw
-
Lift the metal retainer clip straight up from its recess in the rear panel.
-
-
-
Use a plastic opening tool to pry the rear camera connector up from its socket on the control board.
-
Remove the rear facing camera.
-
-
-
Once the LCD panel and rear camera are removed, you can begin removing the Power, Mute, Volume cable (hereafter called the PMV cable for short).
-
The PMV cable starts near the end of the control board cable that runs between two of the battery units, and runs in a complicated path along the side and corner of the iPad. (see photos 1 and 2)
-
The end of the PMV cable is wrapped in tape. Begin by removing this tape to expose the silver rectangular connector on the end of the cable. (see photo 3)
-
Use a plastic opening tool or small screwdriver to lift free the rectangular connector.
-
-
-
Now you must disassemble the side switches.
-
Remove the 2.1 mm Phillips screw from the volume switch mechanism.
-
Remove the two 5.0 mm Phillips screws from the mute slider mechanism.
-
If you have not already removed the rear camera, do so now.
-
-
-
Remove the two 2.5 mm Phillips screws from the back of the power switch mechanism.
-
You can then push in on the power switch (on the exterior of the iPad) to push the mechanism's internal metal plate loose.
-
You can then peel the PMV cable free from the iPad's case, working backwards from the power switch towards the mute switch.
-
Lift free the small metal frame piece supporting the mute and volume switches.
-
Note: The photo shows the mute and volume switch frame being removed before the rear camera and power switch; this is possible but it's probably best to start with the power switch first.
-
-
-
The PMV cable itself is a complicated piece with three integrated buttons and a switch slider.
-
You will need to carefully peel off the old cable free from the ipad frame and the two metal supports (one for the power switch, one for the mute and volume switches).
-
Note that each button is held in place with a tiny bit of adhesive. Use a plastic opening tool or small screwdriver to lift them free.
-
-
-
Now assemble the replacement PMV cable to the two metal brackets.
-
Each button has on its underside two tiny black plastic pegs which fit into holes in the metal frames, to ensure the proper fit. Make sure to line these up properly when attaching the cable to the metal frames. The reassembled cable should look as shown in the figures.
-
Install the new cable working from the power switch back towards the mute and volume switches and then to the cable connector, snaking the PMV cable along its complicated path.
-
The replacement part should have adhesive patches to hold the cable in place.
-
Attaching the rectangular cable connector is tricky as there is little clearance from the edge of the iPad case. It may be helpful to use a plastic opening tool to push it gently until it snaps into place.
-
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
crwdns2935221:0crwdne2935221:0
crwdns2935229:0114crwdne2935229:0
crwdns2947412:06crwdne2947412:0
Successfully completed this guide. Thanks.
Hi, we have an iPad 2 in for repair and needs a new power button assembly. Thing is the ribbon is different from a standard iPad 2. There are subtle differences in the inside too. It is definitely a genuine iPad, and has same model numbers. Anyone come across this before?
Chris, I have the same problem with power ribbon cable it's not the one everyone is selling, did you manage to find a source who sold the correct part?
David -
Completed this guide thank you. Just want to point out that there are two cables for the iPad 2, making sure that you have the right one is very important. Be very careful around the camera area of the iPad too this is very tricky and there are no pictures of this part, wish I had done some now to upload for others, but I'm sure that I'll have another to do before to long and I will then. One main tip... Don't stick anything down till you've got everything secure as removing the the tape is very tricky once stuck and you don't want to be replacing this again...
Beware of fake versions of this cable 821-1151-A from many suppliers. The Hall Effect magnetic switch will then not work because the printed circuit traces on the cable are incorrect. The fake cable can be identified by an ohmmeter showing the two contacts for the Hall chip farthest from the cable edge to be shorted together.
