Easily replace your BR 2032 lithium coin-cell PRAM battery.



  1. Loosen the single Phillips screw in the center of the access door.
    • Loosen the single Phillips screw in the center of the access door.

    • This screw is captive in the access door.

    • Remove the access door from your iMac.

    isn't it actually pc2-5300s ?

    grze - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    It is for the 2133, the 2210 uses 6400

    maccentric - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    • The glass panel is fixed onto the front bezel with fourteen magnets around its perimeter.

    • Stick two suction cups to opposing corners of the glass panel.

    • To attach the suction cups we sell, first position the suction cup with the movable handle parallel to the face of the glass panel. While lightly holding the suction cup against the glass, raise the movable handle until it is parallel with the other handle.

    • If your suction cups refuse to stick, try cleaning both the glass panel and the suction cup with a mild solvent such as Windex.

    At this stage and later handling the LCD I found thin cotton gloves helped to reduce smudges

    john31 - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    My GPS unit's car mount suction cup worked nicely here - couldn't find any at the store and didn't want to wait for mail order!

    Two cups would make it easier but one is fine if you place it in the center and are careful to pull the panel straight out.

    Mathew Hendry - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Why use suction cups when some finger nails will do the job nicely, though a plastic spudger might work too. Start at a top corner. Prize the glass away from the case and leave finger nails in. Move the other hand along the top edge and then with finger spread peel the screen cover away. Be careful not to twist plastic I suppose, but I've had no difficulties.

    damianwise - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    3M Command Strip hooks in opposite corners is another fabulous option when suction cups are not available!

    Adam McCombs - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Tape works fine, here. Search for a YouTube video for a simple look-see.

    Richard - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I didn't have any suction cups, but my pencil sharpener (the kind that suctions to the table) worked great. I put it on the middle and lifted straight up.

    Lisa Mac - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    For a quick 'n' dirty alternative "tool" for this step, take a look at IKEA's Stugvik suction hooks: they provide an excellent adjustable grip. Just used it to take apart an EMC2133. Cheers!

    hadderakk - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Suction cups usually available at Home Depot or Lowes, in the flooring section. (They're used to handle large ceramic & stone floor tiles.)

    Griff in Fairbanks - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  2. Gently pull the glass panel straight up off the iMac.
    • Gently pull the glass panel straight up off the iMac.

    • The glass panel has several positioning pins around its perimeter. To avoid shearing these pins off the glass panel, be sure to only pull straight up during removal.

    • Be meticulous about cleaning the LCD and the inside face of the glass panel before reinstallation, as any fingerprints or dust trapped inside will be annoyingly visible when the display is on. Placing the glass flat, inside face down, on a fresh aluminum-foil surface is a good way to keep it clean.

    In order to avoid unnecessary smudges and what not I covered the LCD itself with some plastic wrap while doing the hard drive upgrade. When I reinstalled it all I needed to do was blow off a few dust particles.

    robgendreau - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    While you are at it, it is worth cleaning out dust within the case to help with cooling - particularly around the fans and vents.

    For the screen I used a lens cleaner from my camera bag. These have very fine fibers and won't leave detritus.

    Mathew Hendry - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Note that the front glass panel is quite light. When reassembling I found it impossible to get the LCD free of dust with the computer lying on its back. I had success with standing the computer up, tilting the LCD down as far as it goes, holding the glass panel upright in front of the computer (about 1 foot away), lightly spraying both the LCD and the back side of the glass panel with compressed air, and then attaching the glass panel (with the computer upright). It took me 5 tries before it was completely clean of dust once the front glass was on.

    axel - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Although I do not advise it, you can substitute the suction cups with two strips of duct tape along the sides of the glass, with the tape attached to it's self in the middle of the strip

    Erin - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

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    tuansakong99 - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

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    Jason Zak -

  3. Remove the following 12 screws securing the front bezel to the rear case:
    • Remove the following 12 screws securing the front bezel to the rear case:

    • Eight 13 mm T8 Torx.

    • Four 25 mm T8 Torx.

    On the 24" EMC2134 there are 3 screw sizes: 6x13, 4x20 & 2x30mm, particular note should be made of their location.

    john31 - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Note for the less experienced.. the case is plastic and the metal coarse thread screws will easily cut a new thread in the hole if you don't line up the screw in the original thread. Do this a few times and the hole will be stripped and the screw no longer tightens.

    TIP:- place the screw in the hole and rotate BACKWARDS/counter clockwise (for RH threads) until you hear/feel it click/drop into the original thread then tighten the screw down. rotate it a couple times to get the feel of things. If there is any significant resistance you probably don't have the original thread.

    This trick also works on the fine metal thread screws and can help avoid cross threading them.


    Richdave - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    On the 24 inch iMac Model A1225 EMC #2134, the two T8 Torx screws in the middle are the longer of the four total bottom 25 mm screws. Just a note for reassembly.

    bhoffs - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    This step is not really explained here with pictures. But you can check this same step in another guide to help you : iMac Intel 20" EMC 2266 Front Bezel Replacement

    thibault - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I'll echo Thibault's comment. This guide does not actually tell you when and/or how to remove the bezel! Click on the other guide he linked to see the photo and instructions.

    steven - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Make sure you're ram slot at the bottom is open to remove front frame bezel

    edgain99 - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I think you're missing this step: With the iMac lying on its back screen facing up, grasp the aluminum sides of the bezel and carefully pull it straight up. Then disconnect the microphone cable. Took me a while to figure it out.

    Richard Cacciato - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I found it helpful to use a few lids from spaghetti sauce jars to hold the different screws. I used a sharpie to mark the inside of the lid w/ location taken from or the step number from directions. Then I placed a small magnet under the lid to hold the screws inside the lid in case I accidentally jostle something on the table. Worked great! You can also use a magnetic knife bar to line up the lids in sequential for the project.

    tom - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I cut a hardwood block and drew the outline of the the iMac shape with the base as key. I then drew another two lines at 1/2” and 1” all around from the outline. This done I drilled holes for each screw (12 Outer securing the front bezel to the rear case , and 8 Inner screws securing the display panel to the rear case ). That way I don’t lose any or get them mixed up.

    jmadams - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I think the title of this chapter could be (in french) désinstallation but not Installation with is the contrary. Idem for the other chapters.

    Bertrand Guigaz - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  4. Place your hands at the top corners of the bezel (to the side) and lift the bezel 2-3cm from the body by working from the top. After this you can also disengage the bottom of the bezel (the memory modules will prevent the bottom of the bezel to detach first). When reassembling, start with the bottom of the bezel.
    • Place your hands at the top corners of the bezel (to the side) and lift the bezel 2-3cm from the body by working from the top. After this you can also disengage the bottom of the bezel (the memory modules will prevent the bottom of the bezel to detach first). When reassembling, start with the bottom of the bezel.

    • The top of the bezel hosts a microphone attached to the logic board. Gently lift the bezel to not damage the microphone wiring or connector by accidentally pulling the cable.

    • At this point, you can either detach the microphone cable and remove the bezel, or keep the microphone cable attached and rest the bezel on your work surface or the chassis of the Mac.

    • To fully detach the bezel: disconnect the microphone cable connector, removing tape as necessary.

    • To keep it attached, leave the microphone cable attached to the logic board, and place the bezel 'above' the chassis, with the microphone cable forming a hinge.

    • If you keep the microphone attached to the chassis, make sure you don't accidentally damage the microphone or logic board by bumping into the loose bezel.

    I avoided this step by just flipping the housing over and having it lay flat on the table. The tape on mine was on really tight, and I risking ripping the wires out of the connector if I messed with it (I didn't have some really small scissors which might have helped removing it). I would suggest either securing the body of the iMac and the housing to the table you're working on, or somehow securing the housing to the body, so that it doesn't move around accidentally, since it's only hanging on by a very thin wire at that point.

    robgendreau - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    ^^^ This! This tutorial should be amended for this step. Much, much easier and less damage-prone.

    (There really oughta be a step addressing the removal of the bezel as well.)

    cklarson -

    Make sure you do not pull this apart by the wires. Have a firm grasp on the plastic parts. Do not force back together. It only goes back together one way. Also, it is crucial when placing the aluminum bezel back in place that this wire is out of the way. It often gets in the way and is easily damaged.

    Kyle Freeman - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    CAUTION - To disconnect the cable, you'll need to support the bezel while you carefully extract slack microphone cable which is tightly tucked within the iMac. (I didn't have this guide's 'notes on' and missed robgendreau's warning - then inadvertently shifted the bezel and busted my microphone cable in this step.)

    dagnew - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Don't forget to pull the microphone cord out before you put the panel back on. Otherwise you will have to go back and remove screws to find that microphone cord

    Melvin Hines - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    As robgendreau says, avoid this whole step by opening the bezel and laying it upside down above the iMac, still connected by the mic cord, just carefully. Then replace the battery, suck/blow out your dust, and carefully rotate the front bezel back over the iMac from where you removed it. No cord manipulation or damage at all!

    recmsoj - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    When reassembling the bezel, you should actually gently pull the microphone connector (and cables) through the ~1 inch long slot in the bezel next to the iSight camera, when lowering the top part of the bezel onto the chassis . Then further lower the bezel onto the chassis of the iMac, while making sure there’s no room / play between the bottom of the bezel and the bottom of the body (where the memory slots reside). . This way you’ll avoid damaging the microphone cable. Finally gently push the microphone wires and connector through that sale long slot in the bezel to conceal them inside the bezel.

    Olivier Biot - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Tuandomino merupakan Situs Poker Online dan qiu qiu online yang terbaik di indonesia dengan halaman mobile friendly , serta sangat ringan untuk dapat kalian akses melalui pc atau pun gadget.

    tuansakong99 - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    How about no?

    Jason Zak -

  5. When reassembling the bezel: be sure to tuck the microphone cable and connector into the void next to the camera board.
    • When reassembling the bezel:

    • be sure to tuck the microphone cable and connector into the void next to the camera board.

    • Gently guide the microphone connector and cables through the ±1in long slot at the right of the iSight camera. Once the bezel is properly assembled, gently push the microphone connector and cable into the bezel through that slot.

  6. Use the tip of a spudger to pry the PRAM battery out of its holder.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to pry the PRAM battery out of its holder.

    Note that when you replace the PRAM battery, the system date is reset to 2004.

    After rebooting, verify if the date needs to be adjusted.

    markp - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Mine did not reset to 2004, or else reset itself correctly later before I looked at the date.

    recmsoj - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I suggest keeping your finger firmly over tab on the right side of the battery holder. It is extremely thin and must have become very brittle from heat and age. When the battery was pushed towards it and then pivoted up from the left, the tab snapped and pivoted up with the battery. Super glue and reinforcement time.

    DwH - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I ordered a Panasonic BR2032 based on this guide. It took 3 weeks to get it because the company sent a CR2032, and I made them take it back and send a BR. BR2032 in hand, I opened up my EMC 2133 iMac and discovered the PRAM battery was actually a CR2032. And it's a Rayovac (unless I mixed up my batteries). And actually the problem wasn't the PRAM battery, it was a bad cap (420v, 150μF) on the power supply. I just replaced the capacitor, and now I'm wondering: does the brand or chemistry of the PRAM battery even matter? It's hard to find a real answer. It would be appropriate to have that information here.

    Fadfax - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Look at this page CR2032 or BR2032 for the use in the iMac is egual.

    Tim -

    In my wife’s iMac the PRAM battery was a CR2032 cell (IIRC from Panasonic). After 10 years of use, it still had 3V so I decided not to replace it yet. Now that I know how to open the iMac I know it’s a quick fix (10-15 minutes). In this case, you only need to perform steps 1-4. Remember to remove the bezel starting at the top. Once you can lift it 2-3 cm, you can disengage the bottom of the bezel by gently and slightly moving the bezel “downward” (if the foot of the iMac is facing you, move the bezel slightly towards your body).

    The battery should be prudently pushed to the right (there’s a metal spring at the right) so it can pass the plastic retaining claws to the left.

    Likewise, remember to gently pull the microphone connector (and cables) through the ~1 inch long slot in the bezel next to the iSight camera when reassembling the bezel on the chassis. Once the bezel is in place, you can easily tuck away the connector and wires through that slot into the bezel. Make sure no wires protrude.

    Olivier Biot -


To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.


Walter Galan

675,613 crwdns2915208:0crwdne2915208:0



Thanks for that, going to try this tomorrow, hopefully will resolve my rebooting issue.

Narmi Tech - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

GENIUS!!! I suffered 2 and a half years not wanting to toss a DEAD iMac and that was wrong was a $3 CR2032 f’ing battery!! THANK YOU!

al.lindroth - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0



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