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This guide shows a method of replacing the power supply WITHOUT removing the logic board
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Loosen the two Phillips screws securing the access door to your iMac.
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Remove the access door.
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Remove the following screws along the lower edge of your iMac:
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Three 6 mm T8 Torx screws
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One 8 mm T8 Torx screw (Right side of the RAM slot on 2105)
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crwdns2935267:0crwdne2935267:0Plastic Cards$2.99
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Insert a plastic card up into the corner of the air vent slot near the top of the rear case.
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Push the card toward the top of the iMac to release the front bezel latch.
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Pull the front bezel away from the rear case.
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Repeat this process for the other side of the front bezel.
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If the bezel refuses to release, try lifting the lower edge of the front bezel slightly away from the rear case (detailed in the next few steps) and repeat the latch release process.
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Lay your iMac stand-side down on a flat surface.
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To lift the front bezel off the iMac, simultaneously:
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Use your thumbs to press in the RAM arms and hold the iMac down.
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Use your index fingers to pull the small bridge of material on the front bezel toward yourself.
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Pull the front bezel up with your index fingers.
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Once the small bridge of material has cleared the RAM arms, lift the front bezel by its lower edge just enough to clear the bottom edge of the rear case.
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Lift the front bezel off the rear case and rotate it away from the bottom edge of the iMac, minding the camera and microphone cables still attached to its upper edge.
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Disconnect the microphone cable.
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Disconnect the camera cable by pulling its connector away from the socket on the camera board.
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Peel up the lower EMI shield from the rear case.
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Tape the EMI shield to the face of the display to keep it out of the way.
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Remove the two 5 mm T6 Torx screws securing the display data cable connector to the logic board.
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Pull the display data cable connector up off the logic board by its black pull tab.
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Peel back the EMI tape from the two vertical edges of the display.
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Allow the lower EMI shield to hang down from the display.
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Remove the four 7.5 mm T10 Torx screws securing the display to the rear case.
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Lift the lower edge of the display and rotate it toward the top edge of your iMac.
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Disconnect both inverter cables from the inverter board.
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Disconnect the two inverter cables at the top edge of the inverter using the method explained in the previous step.
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Rotate the display until it is nearly perpendicular to the rear case and lift it up to peel it off the EMI shield stuck to its top edge.
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Disconnect the hard drive thermal sensor from the top edge of the logic board.
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Remove the two 9.2 mm T10 Torx screws securing the hard drive bracket to the rear case.
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Lift the hard drive from its left edge enough to clear the inverter and pull it toward the left edge of your iMac to unseat the mounting pins from the chassis.
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Pull both the SATA power and data cable connectors away from the hard drive.
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Remove the 4 Torx T10 screws and gently lift the lefts side up and angle the power supply as shown in the second photo.
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Disconnect the left side connector (the output) on the power supply
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You should now remove the metalised foam block located under the metal frame near the top HDD mount. Then GENTLY pull the wires out from under the metal frame to expose the connector
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order noting the correct placement of the power supply mounting screws.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order noting the correct placement of the power supply mounting screws.
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crwdns2944067:03crwdne2944067:0
Hi everyone,
My iMac Intel 20" died on Christmas 2012. I never had time to repair it until today. I bought the power supply on ebay (a bit cheaper).
I took me one hour to follow all de instructions. A bit of a headache trying to attach the screen again, a bit tricky if your screw driver is not magnet (I used blue-tac in the end).
Now my iMac is alive, the power supply was different to the original one but same power and especifications.
The only thing is my screen have some issues with lines and color, I might not plug in the cable totally. One day if I am bored I´ll check it out.
Thanks ifixit!
Personally, I just could NOT wiggle the Power Supply's connector out in such a way I could safely disconnect it, so this "shortcut" guide didn't help all that much.
As it was, I went the traditional route, using the guide that details removal of the Logic Board. Having said that, Don't Panic: there is an intermediate route, because you don't need to remove the Logic Board! You just need to be able to (safely) lift it at the top a few inches to get access to the Power Supply's connectors. I saved 10-15 steps by not removing all the various connectors on the Logic Board that other guide directed you to do.
Followed that guide, I had a working iMac back up and running for $55.00. My old PSU was Apple P/N 614-0378. The replacement via Amazon seems to be a OEM: SADP-185AF. Had the same form factor and input/output voltage parameters though.
iMac Intel 20" EMC 2218: Model A1207
I need the source schematic of the source iMac 24 Inch 2006 2.16 / 2.33 or at least the output voltages of it to check if it is in trouble will be able to pass these voltages