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crwdns2933797:0Dave Empsoncrwdnd2933797:0crwdne2933797:0
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| + | [* black] The upper heating element is removed in the same way, although you don't need to remove any black plastic surround. |
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| + | [* black] The disassembled items are shown in this image. There is no need to remove anything else for this repair unless you want to do a deeper clean and check wiring in hinge. |
| + | [* black] With a multimeter you can confirm that each element has a resistance across the terminals of about 33 ohms. (note the elements identification is for 115v because both are in series ie 230V across the two.) |
| + | [* black] Check the resistance between a terminal and its metal sheathing (use abrasive paper to get a good connection if necessary). It should ideally be above about 2Mohms. My cheap multimeter did not give a steady value but rose from about 100kohms to 2Mohms over about 18 seconds (probably due to inherent capacity of 4-6uF). |
| + | [* black] The low resistance was probably the cause of the RCD tripping. To solve this I heat-treated the elements in an oven at 150C for 1hr. (they run at 170C according to the thermostat). After this the resistance to the sheathing (earthed) was satisfactorily off-scale above 2Mohm. (The capacitance had also halved). |
| + | [* black] On reassembly, the RCD did not trip and ran up to 926W ie close to the value on the label 850W. |
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