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crwdns2933797:0Dave Empsoncrwdnd2933797:0crwdne2933797:0
crwdns2936043:0crwdne2936043:0 crwdns2933505:0crwdne2933505:0 Dave Empson
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| + | [title] Choosing carbon brushes |
|---|---|
| [* black] Also when choosing brushes, look at the suppliers images, ie for similar springs (number of coils, thickness of wire compared to the old brush remnants) and shape of electrical contact (can be filed down- see next section). | |
| [* black] Ideally, the carbon brush should incorporate a stop (pink arrow), such that when worn out, the spring and other hard parts cannot contact and damage the commutator. The stop is formed by a groove along most of the edge of the new carbon brush and a corresponding protuberance in the brush liner (orange arrow). | |
| [* black] Using a brush with a stop means that it can only be inserted into the liner in one direction ie from the back which is why the liner is removed. Another advantage of using a brush with a stop is that it wont fall out during reassembly. | |
| [* black] Of course if there is no lug, indentation or protuberance in the liner, there is no point buying a brush with a stop. A plain brush would suffice. (no significant difference in price). | |
| [* black] Measure the inside of the brush liner to find the required dimensions of the new brush, such that it moves unrestricted in the liner (5x8mm in my case). If slightly stiff it can easily be filed down. The length of the brush should probably be about half the length of the liner (I choose 12mm for a 22mm liner). You can always file it down if to long |