crwdns2933803:05crwdne2933803:0
crwdns2933797:0Quertycrwdnd2933797:0crwdne2933797:0
crwdns2936043:0crwdne2936043:0 crwdns2933505:0crwdne2933505:0 Querty
- crwdns2933769:0crwdne2933769:0
- crwdns2933771:0crwdne2933771:0
- crwdns2933801:0crwdne2933801:0
crwdns2933807:0crwdne2933807:0
| [title] Remove the switch | |
| [* black] Turn the grinder over again, and carefully lift up the capacitor as shown with a any suitable tool to hand: a small flat bladed screw driver is fine. | |
| - | [* black] In addition to the two |
| + | [* black] In addition to the two capacitor leads, there are what I take to be red and blue stator leads. As normal on such tools, it is a ''universal'' motor with 2 simple stator windings and a more complex rotor with brushes. The brushes are at the top and bottom, and can be inspected at this point. |
| [* black] You might need to change or service the brushes at this point, but that is not covered here. | |
| [* black] Remove the red and blue stator wires from the switch next to the capcitor leads. Use long nose pliers to pull off the crimp connectors: this needs a bit of force, so be careful and pull directly along the terminal axes. The picture shows the blue wire disconnected. | |
| [* black] Examine the switch and note how the black rod engages with the push button. | |
| [* black] Notice that the switch has what seems to be a copper heatsink on the side nearest the blue lead. | |
| [* black] The switch is now held only by the two grey plastic clips. | |
| [* black] Insert suitable spacers between the body of the switch and the clips. I cut a wooden cocktail stick in half, and inserted the sharp ends behind the clips and tapped the pieces until the clips were just clear of the switch. |