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crwdns2933797:0Karyn McBurneycrwdnd2933797:0crwdne2933797:0

crwdns2936043:0crwdne2936043:0 crwdns2933505:0crwdne2933505:0 Karyn McBurney

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[* black] Prepare the opening for the new piece: pull nails and remove any screws on the underside of the rafters to ensure a flat mounting, and use the 6" taping knife to skim away a swath of the popcorn texture along the edges of the undamaged ceiling surrounding the opening. Pic 1.
-[* black] Stabilize the sections of undamaged ceiling around the opening with drywall screws placed a little back from the edge--this helps to avoid crumbling or buckling of your nice, clean-cut edge. Use enough pressure when driving screws so that the screw heads imbed ++slightly ++into the wallboard surface. Center rafter screws go in ++straight++. Pic 2.
-[* black] Hold the screw gun at a slight angle when driving screws into the side rafters, starting the screws a little back from the edge as before. Screws in side rafters are ++angled ++because you are fastening to half a rafter--a straight-in screw may miss the rafter altogether. If the opening needs insulation replaced, do it now. Pic 3.
+[* black] Stabilize the sections of undamaged ceiling around the opening with drywall screws placed a little back from the edge--this helps to avoid crumbling or buckling of your nice, clean-cut edge. Pic 2.
+[* icon_note] Use enough pressure when driving screws so that the screw heads imbed ++slightly ++into the wallboard surface.
+[* icon_note] Center rafter screws go in ++straight++.
+[* black] Hold the screw gun at a slight angle and drive screws into the side rafters, starting the screws a little back from the edge as before. Pic 3.
+[* icon_note] Screws in side rafters are ++angled ++because you are fastening to half a rafter--a straight-in screw may miss the rafter altogether.
+[* icon_note] If the opening needs insulation replaced, do it now.