|
| Just remove the three plastic hole cover knobs, which you can simply pull out using tweezers or by lifting one side with a sharp point like that of a knife. Once removed these knobs look as shown below. |
|
| Get a small flat head screw driver and remove the three screws. Then you can simply take out the motor compartment. You'll need to pop the button panel to find a bolt holding the circuit board. You'll be able to figure out hopefully. |
|
| Once the motor is out you can see the thermal fuse wrapped inside the yellow tape covering the motor winding as shown. I cut the pins of the fuse and it's shown left to the motor. |
|
| Now it's time to find a replacement. The original fuse that's there in this one comes from China and here's a [link|http://www.homface.com/homby_2172037_H4F-TAM-thermal-cutoff.htm|link|new_window=true] I could find on it. A close up picture is given below. |
|
| I found several options in ebay, but either they had low ampere rating or too high functioning temperature. Also, it'd take more than a week to arrive. In the end, I decided to go with an alternative one from RadioShack, which in fact is cheaper (~$1.40) than options from ebay. |
|
| If you need some instructions on how to solder these look at [link|http://www.tamurathermaldevice.co.jp/e/product_thermal-cutoff/attention.html|this|new_window=true]. This one has a high ampere rating, but from what I [link|http://www.us-electronics.com/files/Thermalcutofffuses.pdf|read|new_window=true] having a higher ampere rating than the one used does no harm. It's the temperature that's important. |
|
| Once soldered, the unit is alive again. |
| What I found was the thermal fuse was open and needed to be replaced. |