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crwdns2944351:0crwdnd2944351:02010 Mazda 5 How to Troubleshoot Oxygen Sensorcrwdnd2944351:0crwdne2944351:0

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Introduction
One year after replacing the rear oxygen sensor of my 2010 Mazda 5, the yellow engine warning symbol came on again. I read out the error code, with my 'OBD 2' device, and it was again reporting fault code P0138 ("bank 1 sensor 2") problem [link|https://cartreatments.com/p0138|https://cartreatments.com/p0138/][br]
As the device was fairly new, I susptected it was something else. Clearing the fault code while the engine was warm, seemed to work, so I suspected the built-in heat element was not working. However the fuse #37 was OK (see [link|https://www.autogenius.info/mazda-5-2007-fuse-box-diagram|https://www.autogenius.info/mazda-5-2007-fuse-box-diagram])
I then removed the sensor and cleaned it using ultrasound (and gazonline), but that did not solve the problem.
In disbelief I went on and checkes all (!) the relays, but they alle seemed OK
Finally I decided to order a new sensor from a webshop (somehow all webshops I found seem to share the same Berlin address...). This is the part I ordered: [link|https://www.motordoctor.dk/products/8126770-lambdasonde|https://www.motordoctor.dk/products/8126770-lambdasonde]
Before mounting the new sensor, I did a non-scientific check of the pins
Before mounting the new sensor, I did a non-scientific check of the pins, which I enumerated like this:
# Top left
# Bottom left
# Top right
# Bottom right
And then I checked it with a multi-tester like this: [link|https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001566461938.html|https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001566461938.html|new_window=true]
{table
|width=50%
|format=30%l:r:c
|! Pins
|! New sensor
|! Old defect sensor
|--
| 1-2
| 5.06 Ohm
| 6.2 Ohm
|--
| 1-3
| 48 pF
| 6.5 Ohm
|--
| 1-4
| 49 pF
| 52 kOhm
|--
| 2-3
| 46 pF
| 0.9 Ohm
|--
| 2-4
| 49 pF
| 53 kOhm
|--
| 3-4
| 46 pF
| 53 kOhm
}
As you can see from the table above, there clearly is a difference in the behaviour of the new and the old device.
I installed the new device and followed the instructions:
* clear the error codes
* disconnect the car battery for som minutes
* take the car for a 10 minute drive
After this, the problem was gone.
Conclusion
``{table
|width=50%
|format=30%l:r:c
|! Title 1
|! Title 2
|! Title 3
|--
|
|
|
}``
Leasson learned: probe the oxygen sensor pins if you experience problems:
* Pin 1-2 is the pre-heating element, and should show around 5-6 Ohm (meaning that the pre-heating must be using around 60W)
* All other combinations of pins should show a capacitance around 50 pF
Here are some good resources on Mazda and oxygen sensors, but remember: meassure the pins and look for signs of a defect device before you start taking tings apart
[link|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jFFR4307AIQ|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jFFR4307AIQ]
[link|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XC5HWd7Pin4|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XC5HWd7Pin4|new_window=true]
[link|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fiOxH14JPEE|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fiOxH14JPEE]
[link|https://www.700r4transmissionhq.com/p0138-mazda-3|https://www.700r4transmissionhq.com/p0138-mazda-3]