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There are several screws located on the back of the controller that you need to remove, in order to take the faceplate off.
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Remove the battery pack cover.
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Remove batteries.
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Grip the controller firmly to remove the side handles, wedging a spudger into the seam between the front and handle plates.
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Pry the side plate away from the front plate by moving the spudger back and forth. You will need to do this all the way around the side plate's seam.
Start prying the side plate off underneath the trigger, this makes it easier to disconnect the other clips connecting the side plate to the backplate.
One you take it off, is it possible to click it back in?
As long as you don’t exceed the couple tons you need to take it off you should be able to put it back.
Brandon -
I don’t have a squdger
getting those handles back on seems impossible, they just dont fit as well, a gap remains even after snapping into place.
Dont think ill be doing this in the future
edit: wiggled the bo9ttom middlewith the handles off and somethign finally “clicked” into place for that extra 1/4 mm for the down arrow on my D-Pad to click back up into place!.
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Use a screwdriver and punch a hole directly in the center of the label.
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Remove the five 10mm screws located on the back of the controller using the TR8 Security Torx Screwdriver.
i damaged my screws. how do i get the screws out?
wait. i just watched a video guide on ifixit's youtube channel about damaged screws. i'll try those methods.
It's a t8 or t9 security bit btw, I got the top two out with a regular T8, but the bottom two and middle needed a T9 Security bit.
All five faceplate/backplate screws in the controller I disassembled were T8 security fasteners.
Am I doing something wrong because I got the tool it said I needed and got the middle screw out but the others have a bump or something in the center of the screw and it won't fit.
The T8 is only good for the middle screw on my One S controller. The others require something bigger
These requires SECURITY Torx bits (they have a cannulated hole in the driver). I don't believe the iFixIt branded driver is cannulated but you can buy a set of bits from DeWalt DWAX200 which is overkill but has what you need.
The driver that iFixIt sells is cannulated.
where do you get this dumb ass screw driver
iFixit Store #IF145-027-3
You can bypass it with a 1.5mm flathead.
thank you for this. worked for me
These screws required a T10, not T8.
TR9. A $10 kit from Walmart has the bit/driver in it and extra goodies to make life simple.
As weird as it sounds, the top 2 came out for me with a flathead- but the bottom two and the middle one wont
If you damage the middle part of the screws you can still take it out with the same screwdriver.
Thank-You :)
needed a T8H, not easy to see.
on a grey green xbox one controller
On my 1708 controller there are two internal screws near the rumble motors that need to be removed with a T6 non security bit to remove the back cover.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
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It was a good tutorial, but i have two plastic rings that stay after my instervention... Anyone knows where are-they ?
It was a good tutorial, but i have two plastic rings that stay after my instervention... Anyone knows where are-they ?
Note before starting. You need a T8 security bit (with a hole in the middle), not a standard T8 bit.
I took mine a part because it was looking dirty, gave it a good clean, putting it back together was easy but it wont work with the batteries anymore just the power core, there is nothing broken or cracked, any ideas?
Maybe you forced the battery contact on the wrong side of the case?
Alex is probably right. It's easy to let the two battery contacts on one side get covered by the bottom plate. Take battery cover off and compare the metal bits you see to a known good one.
Are the steps the same with the Xbox One Elite Controller as well?
This is a great tutorial for people wanting to replace the boring black or white faceplate with one with a skin. It’s a shame they didn’t make the controllers easily customizable. They could’ve done a lot more with this console.
Is this for the standard Xbox One controller or the Xbox One S Controller, or does the same exact steps apply to both?
RB wasn't making contact unless I pushed really hard. Destructed as shown then pulled off the xbox button faceplate, and the offending button. Cleaned around the tact switch with isopropyl and it's responsive again!
I did this only using a glasses repair kit
