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Fry your beloved Valhalla motherboard? Use this guide to replace it, and get back on Xbox Live today.
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Push the latch holding down the hard drive cover to the left.
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Pull the hard drive cover away from the console.
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Firmly grasp the fabric tab labeled with the size of the hard drive (e.g. "250 GB") attached to the hard drive.
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Pull the hard drive straight out of the console.
If i buy a new xbox 360 and replace the hardrive inside with my own, will i have my account and saves? or will i have to recover my account and start over?
You will still have your saves and account if you replace your hard drive in the new xbox
hola tengo un disco de laptop y quiero ponerle 100 juegos como puedo hacer la xbox me reconose el disco y todo lo configuro pero cuando conecto a mi pc para pasar los juejosel emulador no me deja
My fabric was accidentally ripped off years ago. What do I do?
Stick another bit on there
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It is attached to the bottom panel by the seven clips shown.
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Insert a metal spudger between the black bottom vent and the silver rim of the bottom bezel, in the rear right corner of the vent.
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Rotate the spudger away from the console, prying the vent up from the bottom bezel.
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In the same manner as described above, pry the two remaining clips on the bottom right edge.
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Remove the bottom vent by lifting it away from the bottom bezel.
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The clips shown in red can be detached by inserting a metal spudger underneath the bottom edge of the clip. Once underneath the bottom edge, simply prying away from the console will free the clip.
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Insert a metal spudger through the slit near the rear left corner of the bottom bezel.
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Rotate the spudger away from the device while lifting the rear bezel up with the other hand.
These are pretty awkward to remove, but once you understand how they work its easy enough. The goal here is to slot the spudger THROUGH the gap of the silver tabs (visible in previous steps image, circled) and then pry. Put pressure against the wall of the Xbox case and push downwards, once you feel the spudger slot in, then apply force away from the Xbox and pull up a little with your free hand.
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Insert a metal spudger through the left middle slit of the bottom bezel, and between the bottom edge of the clip and the left case.
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Simultaneously pull the bottom bezel up and rotate the spudger away from the console to free the clip.
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In a similar fashion, free the clip at the front of the bottom bezel's left edge.
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Insert the spudger into the rear-most slit on the right edge of the bottom bezel, and wedge it behind the clip by pushing the spudger down while pushing the tip of the spudger against the right case.
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Simultaneously release the clip and pull the bottom bezel up.
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Insert a spudger between the silver rim and bottom bezel directly above the clip shown.
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Release the clip while pulling up on the bottom bezel.
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Lift the left edge of the bottom bezel up enough to gain clearance.
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Insert a metal spudger behind the left edge of the last clip, and push the clip away from the right case.
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In the following steps, you will remove the top vent, secured to the top panel by the thirteen clips shown.
The motherboard and the disc drive's PCB (circuit board) are paired. If the drive's PCB is fine, which it most likely is, then all you need to do is swap out the PCB on the new drive with your old one before installing it. No motherboard replacement required.
Only in the unlikely case that the drive's PCB is fried will you require a full drive and motherboard replacement.
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Orient the console so that the words "XBOX 360" on the sides are right-side up, and the faceplate is facing to the left.
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Insert a metal spudger between the top vent and the top bezel near the rear of the Xbox.
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Rotate the spudger away from the console, prying the edge of the fan vent up until the two plastic clips come free.
Whoever gave that tool the name “spudger” needs to be shot in the face.
This step is and the others following are to rough and not needed, simply put smth in between the lamellar and push it up with littlebit pressure thats better for the plastic parts.
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Insert a metal spudger between the fan vent and top bezel along the left side of the console.
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In the same manner described above, begin prying the left side of the top vent away from the top bezel.
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Continue prying along the left side of the device, freeing all the clips on that side.
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Lift the fan vent up from the freed left side to disengage the clips along the right side.
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Remove the entire fan vent.
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In the following steps, you will be releasing the six clips highlighted in red.
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Insert a metal spudger through the front-most slit on the left edge of the top bezel and between the bottom edge of the clip and the left case, as described above.
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Simultaneously rotate the spudger away from the console and pull up on the top bezel to free the clip.
So I got the fan filter thing off, but the black edge plate thing isn't coming off. All I did was warp my flathead screwdriver and scratch the console.
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Using the same method described above, free the two remaining clips along the left edge of the top bezel.
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Grab the entire top panel with your hands, lift up the entire left edge high enough to rest the separated clips on top of the left case.
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Rotate the console so that the rear of the Xbox 360 S is facing to the right, and the right case is facing you.
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Insert a metal spudger through the rear-most slit on the right edge of the top bezel and between the bottom edge of the clip and the right case.
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While lifting up on the top bezel with your fingers, rotate the spudger away from the console to free the clip.
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In the same manner as described in the previous steps, release the middle and front clips along the right edge of the top panel.
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Does not void the warranty in the United States according to the FTC that sent a cease and desist letter directly to Microsoft about this exact issue.
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Locate the two clips connecting the right and left case along the top edge of the console, behind the Wi-Fi card.
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While pushing the left and right case away from each other with one hand, pry the clips away from the case with a metal spudger.
Retiring the WiFi module, this task gets a lot easier
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Insert a spudger between the right and left cases to hold them separate while you work elsewhere.
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While pushing the left and right cases apart with one hand, free one clip located beside the hard drive slot.
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Place another spudger between the left and right cases directly below the clip.
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Insert the flat edge of a metal spudger between the left and right cases where the warranty sticker used to be.
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Pry the left case upwards to form a gap between the two cases, and slide the spudger in toward the left case.
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Rotate the spudger upward to release the last clip.
if you make a hole right here like the link`s picture you can boot the lock
As the user above me said, please avoid doing it like shown in the guide. It just didn’t work on my Xbox (unless your goal is to destroy the plastic case). Instead, pick some small needle like object (the spudger was too short for this, I used the SIM bit of my iFixit driver kit) and find the right spot on the big sticker which is on the left in the pictures shown in the guide. That spot is just between the text and the column of logos (Dolby Digital, etc.) (https://team-xecuter.com/slim/slim_secre..., picture not mine). Poke it (don’t be too gentle, you have to apply some force) and you will hear the clip release.
Both the above links are dead, i used this YouTube video which shows you the process of getting the hidden clip
I was able to open it by pushing on the sticker to unclamp the clip while another person helped me pull open the case.
Here is a Video that shows the small hole behind the sticker, ist in german but ist good to see how to open that hidden clip easiely.
None of the above options by the other commenters worked for me, but I found a video that points out there's a little hole right in the middle of the "SEE PRINTED MANUAL" and "UL" on the sticker under the Xbox 360 warranty sticker that I stuck a sewing needle into and it unlatches the latch: https://youtu.be/7mC8ckDvKqc?si=CVyCszpF...
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Release one clip in the front left corner of the top edge securing the left case to the faceplate.
On earlier Xbox 360 S systems, the screws mentioned in step 40 need to be unfastened in order to complete this step
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Flip the console over so the bottom is facing upward.
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Release one clip in the front left corner of the bottom edge securing the left case to the faceplate.
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Rotate the left case away from the device to release the last two inner clips.
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Remove the left case.
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Release the clip near the front right corner of the top edge securing the right case to the faceplate.
There are 4 black screw that has to be removed before you can detach the other cover. Please note
Sorry, there 5screws, one in the middle and 4 at the edges
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Release the clip in the bottom right corner of the top edge securing the right case to the front case.
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Lift the left edge of the faceplate upward to release the last two clips securing the faceplate to the right case.
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Detach the faceplate from the rest of the device.
It is easier to perform step 40 before 34 (unscrew the long torx screws to make the right case flexible)
There isn’t 2 clips there is 4 clips
I tore this on reassembly and it was barely held together. Be careful!
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Using a spudger or fingernail, lift the clear blue tab away from the connector.
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Slide the locking tab on the power switch board cable connector toward the top of the console.
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Pull the power switch cable straight out of the connector.
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The faceplate is now free of the rest of the console.
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Remove the two 5.6 mm T8 Torx screws securing the RF module to the metal case.
On my disassembly during this part, I found the T9 Torx to be too big and had to use the T8 Torx instead.
The correct size is T8!
I guess you need to check for your own size : I used the TR9 as the TR8 was a little too loose.
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Pull the board directly away from the Xbox to remove it.
This step is not needed.
It may not be required but recommended. As you move the xbox around you could break this part. Removing it and placing it in a safe place keeps that from happening.
Is the rf module married to the mother board? Im trying to replace the piece but dont want to start if it is not compatible.
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Remove the single T10 Torx screw holding in the wireless card.
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Pull the Wi-Fi Board out of the console.
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Remove the large white sticker from the metal frame to expose a screw.
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Remove the five 55.5 mm T10 Torx screws securing the right case to the metal frame.
I opened an Xbox 360 S manufactured in 2010. These 5 screws are needed to be undone in order to complete step 30. I didn't know about the one under the sticker so I ended up breaking the housing as a result. I'd appreciate it if you could make a note to step 30 pointing you to this step if you are having trouble taking the side off, as it is highly likely that these screws are the reason.
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Lift the right case off by its metal framework.
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Disconnect the optical drive data cable from the back of the optical drive.
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Disconnect the power cable from the back of the optical drive.
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Lift the optical drive out of the Xbox.
Is there a specific Optical Drive that Microsoft uses in these or can I upgrade my drive?
i took my drive out but when installed my replacement it would not work
WAS thinking of possibly trying to repair my son's Xbox 360S, by replacing the optical drive, but after looking at all the spudger steps to get to the drive and then your comment that the replacement might not actually work... forget about it! I ain't going to all that work for possibly nothing... t'ain't worth it!
Anyone want a perfectly working Xbox 360S with a drive the spins game discs upon ejection? We've already bought a replacement, so this unit is for sale... name your price.
Luposian -
In regards to davidgardner301 comment there is a extra step they. Didn't show on this replacement guide in order for your new disk drive to work you will need to remove the origional board connected to thje origional drive that came with the system and soler that onto the new one its a tricky process however its a step most people over look
Without the origional board the xbox will not accept the replacement drive only because each disk drive is coded to work with tat soecific xbox only so your out of luck if you already. Tossed out your old disk drive
So I installed the drive but the thing keeps reading the games as dvds, hence; wont play them, why?
The DVD drives are coded to the Motherboard. If you buy the same exact drive to replace the broken one. You will still need to either 1) transfer the DVD circuit board OR 2) get the Firmware from the old DVD drive using a PC and then transfer it to the New DVD. There are website regarding this procedure if you want to look it up.
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Remove the single 11.3 mm gold T10 Torx screw from the hole marked "G."
Could be preferable to do this step along with step #47 since the screws fasten the same plastic part.
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Remove the single 9.2 mm T10 Torx screw securing the hard drive cable connector to the plastic bracket.
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Lift the hard drive cable connector off the hard drive bracket.
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Remove the 11.3 mm T10 Torx screw holding the hard drive bracket to the metal frame, near the DC-In port.
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Lift the hard drive bracket out of the metal frame.
I have a 4GB Xbox 360 slim and I bought a 500GB hard drive for it. I pushed the hard drive in its place and after I heard that click, I pushed it a little bit more to be shure that it's in place. I noticed that the hard drive bracket (the slide that holds the hard drive) it's elastic: after the hard drive is inserted, it wobbles (maybe to prevent hdd damage when the xbox is moved).
My question is: how does the hard drive bracket work? is there a metal spring in its mechanism that allows it to wobble? Did I make any damage to it because I pushed the hard drive to be sure that it is in place? I don't want to teardwon my console to find that out.
Thank you!
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Disconnect the fan cable by pulling its connector off the logic board.
What is the size and name if the connector in the fan?
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Unscrew the two 11.7 mm Phillips screws securing the fan to the heat sink in the bottom right and top left corners of the fan.
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Remove the fan from the logic board assembly.
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There are a total of 10 screws holding the logic board assembly to the metal case:
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Five 11.3 mm silver T10 Torx screws, in the holes marked "M", "N", "P", "R", and "T".
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Four 5.6 mm black T9 Torx screws in the holes marked "D", "E", "J", and "K".
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A single 11.3 mm gold T10 Torx screw in the hole marked "A".
Correct size for the orange screws is T8!
I confirm what the user above me said, they were T8, at least on my Xbox.
T8 works for me as well
I don't have the gold one. Is it normal?
My gold and silver screws were reversed. 5 gold, 1 silver.
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Lift the optical drive retaining bracket off the logic board.
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Grab the heat sink with one hand, and hold the metal frame with the other.
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Lift the logic board assembly out of the metal frame.
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crwdns2935267:0crwdne2935267:0Flathead 1.5 mm Screwdriver$5.49
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Starting at the front left corner of the x-clamp, insert a 1.5 mm flathead screwdriver between the heat sink's peg and the x-clamp's hook.
Uggghhhh, Microsoft is still using X-Clamps. Didn't they learn anything from the original 360?
Hopefully having the smaller CPU and GPU on the same die, as well as an "improved fan cooling system" will keep those old issues from rearing their ugly heads. The Red Ring of Death technically doesn't exist anymore, either.
I've been reading that people are ruining their boards on this step when they slip and the tool slices the main board while trying to remove the x-clamp. Use a metal spudger and slip it between the post and the x-clamp from ABOVE... not along the bottom where the board is. The whole clamp came off in 30 seconds and the spudger was nowhere near the pcb.
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In the same manner described above, release the rear right hook of the x-clamp.
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In the same manner described above, release the rear left hook of the x-clamp.
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Lift the x-clamp off the back of the logic board.
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Lift the heat sink off of the logic board.
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The logic board and its connectors remain.
When transferring cables from the old motherboard to the new one, please note that the two motherboard versions have different connectors for the hard drive power.
The Revision B board has a 4pin connector located between the two SATA data ports whilst the revision A board has a 5pin connector located near the CPU fan power connector.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
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This guide wouldn't even work. DVD drives are linked to the motherboard. If someone were to follow this the end result would be an Xbox console that could only play DVDS games would show up as DVDs because of key mismatch.
What you mean “could only play DVDS games would show up as DVDs because of key mismatch “?
Whats the difference you mean about DVDS and DVDs?
Yes, but this is a good guide for those that are installing new thermal paste on their boards and/or wanna gut their system for a thorough cleaning.
just wanted to say thank you although i only needed up to step 43 as i'm have issues with the dvd drive it seems it only wants to read if the drive case is open my my thought is the slider servo is about done for. the dvd was a bit of a bear to figure out for a few minutes but remove the foam then use a p42 driver on the screws underside then the top slides off the back and honestly i left the bottom on.i found step 29 to be a bit of a pain and almost decided to break that bugger of a clip off for future work but didn't, and to me it seemed that removing the screws in step 40 made steps 32 through 34 easier, i don't know take it for what it's worth also i found i could also skip step 35 and leave the front plate and the rf module connected which made working the unit while open/disassembled easier if you need to remove the rf module then you can move the front plate off to the side enough and remove the screws holding it, and beside i hate working with ribbon cable. all in all nice guide though THUMBS UP!
Thanks mate, got me to where I needed to get to… that other tosser can !#^& off tho, id like to see him take the time and effort to produce a detailed instructional like this.
How do I swap a motherboard from a standard edition Xbox 360 Slim with a special edition like the R2-D2 Star wars edition? And keep the startup noise and lights.
You can't keep the startup noise and lights, that's programmed onto the console. Your best bet is buying a new R2-D2 board.
Who can to sell to me working motherboard??
In step 51, the four black screws are T8 like in step 36, not T9.
