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Monitor does not power up (no image, no backlight), but blue power button LED goes on when pressed.

Power supply partly damaged. Replacing one resistor fixed this.
This is only one possible fault of this device, so be prepared that it might not be the reason in your case.

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  1. Disconnect power cord Turn monitor face down on cloth to avoid scratches
    • Disconnect power cord

    • Turn monitor face down on cloth to avoid scratches

    • Remove Stand by releasing screws around plate

    • With opener tool or screwdriver work around the edges to release the clips that hold together front bezel and back cover

    • Remove back cover

    • Remove cables to CCFL (Background illumination lamps) and front bezel buttons

    • Remove cage containing PCBs, release screws and remove SMSP PCB (Power supply with power inlet connector)

  2. The Essential Toolkit

    The most helpful tools in our most compact kit.

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    The Essential Toolkit

    The most helpful tools in our most compact kit.

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  3. Caution: The circuit board contains capacitors (they look like cylinders) that can shock you if they discharge. Be careful not to touch them as you work. If possible, use a capacitor discharge probe to safely rid the capacitors of dangerous charges.
    • Caution: The circuit board contains capacitors (they look like cylinders) that can shock you if they discharge. Be careful not to touch them as you work. If possible, use a capacitor discharge probe to safely rid the capacitors of dangerous charges.

    • Red marked resistors are 68Ohm about 1Watt. Measure if they have 68Ohm and replace if not

    • Put back together and test.

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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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Thomas Widmaier

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Master Techs crwdns2886886:0Master Techscrwdne2886886:0

Community

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it really works again, i replaced the 3 resistor 68 ohm by 1 of 220 Ohm and 5 W.

Thanks you very much.

toran - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

Worked for me too. Nice guide, Awesome screen :D pictures at https://lunaticcharade.wordpress.com

Petter - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

Appreciate a lot Thomas, we owe you one my friend and also thanks to Toran for the 3 in 1 trick.

Have a good day,

Cato, Canada

Cato - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

Please note: There are two different boards for the Samsung SyncMaster 245B Power supply. The one shown here is the BN44-00173A (Board A), the alternate one is the BN44-00195A (Board B).

There are 3 main problems with the power supply

- defective capacitors (sometimes, but not always bulged top)

- defective resistors (sometimes, but not always looking burnt)

- defective fuses, simple to check

There are reports of other defects as well! Sometimes it helps to completely resolder the power supply board. Board A is far more likely to show one of the above defects than Board B. For Board A you find much more information and repair instructions. I think Board B is the younger one (redesign of Board A) and less likely to be defective. For this reason you hardly find instructions for Board B.

Board A can still be purchased. Price is usually $60-$85 + shipping. At least some of those boards are not used but used. Read careful...

And Board A is still available from my Samsung repair center.

TerraD - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

... continued from above

Some people report success with the above steps, but some of them had the problem showing up again after hours or days. Beside the power supply there is one main second possible reason for a defective 245B: the CCFL-tubes itself. They just wear out after many hours of usage. So if a Samsung 245B shows a black screen in 2016 take this possibility into consideration as well. There are spare CCFL tubes and LED refurbishing kits for displays on the market.

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