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Usa esta guía para remplazar u cable roto del disco duro. El cable del disco duro igual contiene el LED de reposo y el sensor IR.
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Extrae los siguientes diez tornillos:
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Tres tornillos Phillips #00 de 14.4 mm
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Tres tornillos Phillips #00 de 3.5 mm
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Cuatro tornillos de resalto Phillips #00 de 3.5 mm
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Usa tus dedos a modo de palanca para levantar la tapa inferior del cuerpo del MacBook por la zona del ventilador.
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Extrae la tapa inferior.
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Usa el borde de un spudger para levantar el conector de la batería haciendo palanca para extraer su toma de corriente de la placa madre.
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Dobla el cabre de la batería ligeramente para alejarlo de su conexión en la placa madre para evitar que se conecte accidentalmente mientras trabajas.
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Remueve los dos tornillos Phillips que sujetan el soporte del disco duro a la tapa superior.
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Utiliza la lengüeta adjunta para levantar el disco duro de la tapa superior.
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Tira el cable del disco duro para separarlo del cuerpo del disco duro
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Remueve el disco duro.
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Usa el lado plano de una spudger para levantar el conector del disco duro de su zócalo en la placa lógica.
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Remueve los cuatro tornillos siguientes:
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Dos tornillos Phillips de 3 mm
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Dos tornillos Phillips de 9.7 mm
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Cuidadosamente pela el cable fino del sensor IR/LED de reposos del adhesivo asegurándolo a la carcasa superior.
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Tira el soporte frontal del disco duro que contiene el sensor de IR/LED de reposo del borde frontal de la carcasa superior.
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Usa la punta de un spudger para levantar la "palanca" del conector ZIF (lado izquierdo en la primera foto) en el cable del disco duro. El conector sale, consulte la siguiente instrucción.
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Gentilmente tira cable amarillo del soporte del sensor fuera del conector ZIF (hacia la derecha, en la segunda foto).
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Usa el lado plano de un spudger para levantar el cable cable del disco duro del soporte del sensor al que esta adherido.
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Para re-ensamblar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.
Para re-ensamblar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.
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Quick and easy fix a repair shop would have charged a small fortune for. The only thing I'd add is if your replacement has built in glue like mine did be careful installing it as it will stick anywhere and everywhere!
We upgraded our hdd to an ssd and in the process must have damaged the sata cable. Macbook worked for a month before we got the flashing ? folder of death. Investigating we noticed the cable was partly ripped. This guide was perfect for replacing the cable, and now the macbook is working fine again! Brilliant! Just be careful to anyone replacing the hdd, the sata cable can tear easily.
I've replaced my hard drive cable twice now. The problem seems to be that the underside of the aluminum unibody has small ridges on it (you can see them, but they are small. The cable rubbed back and forth on these ridges, and you could see where the cable had shorted where it had worn away. It doesn't take much.
I found a youtube fix which involved only laying a piece of electrical tape along the underside of the cable (underneath the drive), and another piece along the body itself. A couple minutes and few cents worth of electrical tape later and all was working fine.
I think i might have damaged the yellow ribbon that needs to be reinserted into the new sata cable because i recently installed one and had it fail 2 weeks later and just got a new one that isn't loading up the sign-in menu but at least begins to read the hard drive instead of going straight to the ' ? ' folder. However, it will just continue to read the hard drive and stay at the loading screen with the apple icon and a spinning gray loading wheel below it without any progress. Any thoughts? I was thinking the yellow cable could have somehow been damaged. Does anyone know the name of the part with the yellow ribbon? It is connected to the bracket that sits below the hard drive.
Guide is easy to follow, successfully replaced the sata cable.
Unfortunately my Mac does not recognise the battery anymore now. Does anybody have an idea what went wrong? Or even better: how to fix it?
I unsuccessfully tried a PRAM as well as an SMC reset.