crwdns2915892:0crwdne2915892:0
Razer uses 15v DC for charging / cable use. It has two AAA NiMH 750mAh batteries solder/welded/glued to PCB
crwdns2942213:0crwdne2942213:0
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Push blade edge away from body so it hinges at the back.
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Remove 2 Philips screws that hold plate in place.
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Pry at the sides of bottom of bezel using finger nail or pry tool.
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Work your way up from bottom prying at sides to release the catches.
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Should just lift out using the the tab.
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Philips screw top and bottom of motor assembly
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Remove 2x small black philips screws from front cover (below now removed bezel)
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Slide the front cover downwards relative to body
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Lift Front cover off
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This is tricky and high rise of snapping plastic case.
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There are two black plastic clips down sides just below the ring (roughly in line with button). Release these first with flat head screwdriver and there should be a little more flex in case.
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Then you have to life motor out of case by bending the case out of shape at the top. Do one side at a time. Don't bend case more than is necessary.
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Then assembly should lift up to like 30 degrees so you can slide out the connector at the bottom.
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First, slide the rotary ring off motor end of assembly.
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Take note of how it comes appear as it's fiddly to reassemble
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Then there are 6 white plastic hooks to release. These break really easily!
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I think motor is supposed to be removed before PCB, which I found out the hard way.
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Slide off the plastic housing around motor.
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If you then pull shaft firmly it should just pull out (pass waterproofing seals)
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PCB and battery assembly are just held into plastic housing by spring loaded metal contacts for DC in connector (and motor before it was removed).
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With some gentle prying it should just lift out...
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This is what top of PCB looks like. The 2nd photo is after I've swopped batteries. Note that PCB says 'Jaguar-NiMH'.
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To be super helpful batteries are spot welded together, and to pins, which are then soldered to PCB. Plus the batteries are glued into the plastic PCB support.
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Note: The PCB is still powered until batteries are removed, so be carefully not to short anything!
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After various attempts I conclude best approach as to use a small paint brush to apply white spirit repeatedly to gap between the batteries, and between batteries and plastic at sides of PCB assembly. I then left it 24h to do it's work.
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Then force a small flathead screwdriver (with PCB on a flat cushioned surface so a not to bend it) between battery terminals, and the flat metal pins that are solder into PCB (button end of batteries). You will bend plastic and pins, but you should be able to break the spot welded joints.
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Note: You can leave the plate at other end holding batteries together in situ.
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Then using a thin knife blade try and losen the glue between batteries and plastic.
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Finally using a pry tool in the corners, starting at DC-In connector end of batteries, try and life them out of plastic slots. If you struggling, use more white spirit, and check you've fully broken spot welds.
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There is two screws and a small bit of plastic on the bottom of motor housing. You can remove it, but it achieves nothing.
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You can check the motor works, pcb and new battery work together before re-assembling. Just should spring connectors together on the bench and press the button on pcb. LEDs will come one, and motor will spin (and try and walk across bench)
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There is need to leave white spirit to disolve glue, it's probably only 2-3h work
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
It's really fiddly to get the rotary ring assembly back together.... but possible.
I didn't bother putting glue to hold batteries to PCB assembly, as housing is snug, and it feel like deterrent....
There is need to leave white spirit to disolve glue, it's probably only 2-3h work
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
It's really fiddly to get the rotary ring assembly back together.... but possible.
I didn't bother putting glue to hold batteries to PCB assembly, as housing is snug, and it feel like deterrent....
