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This guide will show how to remove the faceplate and casing from the Nest Hello.
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Insert the pick between the black faceplate and white casing of the Nest Hello.
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Pry the faceplate away from the device with the opening pick.
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Completely remove the faceplate from the device, do not be afraid to pull hard.
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Peel back the cover stickers and use the Phillips #000 screwdriver to remove the four screws.
There is a small circle sticker over each screw, about the size of the red circles in the image above. It wasn't clear from the directions what the "cover stickers" were. A small exacto knife was helpful to pry up the edge of each sticker.
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Insert opening pick between the white casing and the black internal circuitry and pry it out.
Where can you get a replacement faceplate from?
I ended up doing the headlight lens restoration method - I scraped away any plastic that was flaking off and then I used progressively finer sandpaper (start with 400-600 grit and go up from there). I finished it with rubbing compound and polish. Looks decent.
Also - be careful not to cut or displace the rubber gasket that runs around the outside of the main body that has the circuitry - you'll risk losing the waterproofing
What is the replacement battery type please?
BUSFUIVA Replacement Battery for Nest 1ICP7/17/26, Hello, NC5100US, C1241290, Vido Doorbell Wired. 3.7V 280MAH https://a.co/d/38BD8qY
The top end has some kind of mild adhesive (the blue stuff). The bottom end came out more easily for me, and then I ended up bending my board slightly by trying to pry out the top end. May be better to start on the top end if you can get something under the edge of the board to get leverage.
The black ribbon cable was instantly sheared in half the moment I got the two halves apart, which took more force than I was hoping to need. Turns out the ribbon cable is attached to a sharp metal piece and it will easily tear through it. No longer worth it to replace the battery for me, sadly.
What a stupid design by Nest. If they know that battery will fail they should at least make it user accessible when removed from mount. Replaced mine. It’s a pain getting to the battery and it’s easy to crack the faceplate when prying it off. Also the plastic tools included with kit will fail before you’re into the device.
If you can manage to get to the battery without destroying the Nest Doorbell it’s worth it to get a few more years of use.
Some more clarity about where the ribbon cable is located would be helpful. It is unclear from the photos which side it is on and I was very apprehensive about where to separate the bodies while avoiding severing it.
The pick was inadequate to separate the two parts. It actually broke. Had to use a flat head screw driver.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
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Embry-Riddle Aeronautical University, Team S1-G7, Cromer Twal Spring 2020 crwdns2935289:0Embry-Riddle Aeronautical University, Team S1-G7, Cromer Twal Spring 2020crwdne2935289:0
ERAU-CROMER TWAL-S20S1G7
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Are Replacement parts available anywhere? Can’t seem to find anything… thanks!
Aside from fine grit sanding and spray painting or using a silicone cover, has anyone found a creative way to fix the delaminated an existing Gen 1 Google Nest wired / Nest Hello doorbell faceplate (remove the rest of the flaking off laminate)?
I had to use a metal spudger tool to start and then used guitar picks.
Joel Lundi - crwdns2934203:0crwdne2934203:0
Be afraid to pull hard. The faceplate will break in two.
B Bremer - crwdns2934203:0crwdne2934203:0
I did the JerryRigEverything method and slipped a razor under the faceplate to separate it carefully from the body. Worked perfectly and nothing was damaged
There I Fixed It - crwdns2934203:0crwdne2934203:0
Be careful with the wiring and the heater element. I must have shorted something together when it put it back together and now it will no longer power up. It is probably best to cut the wires to the heater and deal with the consequences in the cold temperatures.
Joe I. Fabritz - crwdns2934203:0crwdne2934203:0
The secret I think is slicing through the adhesive. I shoved multiple picks in and worked my way around. You want to cut the adhesive. Prying is likely to break the faceplate. The big hint is the next picture in the step, seeing where the adhesive is.
Arnold de Leon - crwdns2934203:0crwdne2934203:0