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When replacing your hard drive, you must transfer the Torx screws from the old drive to the new one.
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With the case closed, place the Unibody top-side down on a flat surface.
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Depress the grooved side of the access door release latch enough to grab the free end. Lift the release latch until it is vertical.
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The access door should now be raised enough to lift it up and out of the Unibody.
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Grab the white plastic tab and pull the battery up and out of the Unibody.
Great tutorial ! great step !
Even though it’s specifically stated, you have to make sure the access door latch is vertical or the battery won’t be removable.
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Remove the single Phillips screw securing the hard drive bracket to the upper case.
My Phillips #00 screwdriver does not fit here. In fact, I´ve tried every Phillips screwdriver I have. Nothing fits. I am losing my mind trying to get that screw out.
Turns out I have a stripped screw...
My drive screw head was pre-stripped. I had to drill through it to remove the drive bracket. Any idea what the specification of this screw is? It appears to be around 12mm long and 1.5mm diameter but M1.5 does not appear to exist.
Here my screw head is worn out. Thinking of drilling it myself as well. Not happy ☹️ Any tips to the rescue to solve this without drilling?
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Lift the hard drive by its pull tab enough to grab and remove the retaining bracket.
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Lift the hard drive out of the chassis, minding the cable attaching it to the computer.
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Remove the hard drive from its cable by pulling the cable connector straight away from the drive.
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Hard drive remains.
Is this SATA 1, 2 or 3? I'm buying a SSD and am wondering if it would take advantage of Sata 3.
I'm also considering an SSD, any help with this question?
I did some some looking around for specs at everymac.com and I came up with this.
http://www.everymac.com/systems/apple/ma...
From the link there it says the SATA interface is 3Gb/s, which would be SATA II.
As for whether or not an SSD is worth it on SATA II, I found a Tom's Hardware article which explains the problem a little bit more.
http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/ssd-...
Hope this helps!
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Remove the two T6 Torx screws from each side of the hard drive (four screws total).
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
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Radio shack has a small kit with assorted bits that includes all of the t bits
just to be save a quick .. use super duper first on your new hdd to clone the old one... (if possible) and after installing... its like you have the same drive... no loss of files.... easy does it!
Very easy and worth the upgrade
The model A1278 in front of me doesn't look like the above. It has 10 screws holding a single piece base onto the body, and not a single quick-release catch in sight. The battery bay looks different as well, but removing the HDD is just as easy.
That is because you are looking at a MacBook Pro A1278, not the MacBook Unibody. Apple made the regular MacBook in an aluminum enclosure in 2008 and the following aluminum model was changed to be called the MacBook Pro.
Anyone know where I can get that hard drive bracket? Lost mine
My hard drive bracket center screw is damaged. I can’t screw it out. Does anyone know how to get the screw out and where I can buy a new bracket center screw?
This is not a a1278 unibody MacBook Pro. A1278 MacBooks backs are one solid metal piece not two separate pieces. This guide is for a different MacBook Pro.
Brad Burgeson - crwdns2934203:0crwdne2934203:0
This guide isn’t for a pro; it’s a MacBook unibody.
Nicholas -
So, it turns out that Apple used the model code A1278 for quite a few different Mac models, including both Pro and non-Pro versions! This guide is for the non-Pro Macbooks. There’s also one for the Pro models with the same A1278 identifier.
tempelmann - crwdns2934203:0crwdne2934203:0