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Replacing a broken display assembly gives you a new LCD, front glass, display enclosure, iSight camera, and new AirPort antennas.
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Remove the following ten screws securing the lower case to the upper case:
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Three 13.5 mm (14.1 mm) Phillips screws.
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Seven 3 mm Phillips screws.
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Using both hands, lift the lower case near the vent to pop it off two clips securing it to the upper case.
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Remove the lower case and set it aside.
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Remove the two 7.4 mm Tri-point screws securing the battery to the upper case.
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Note: For certain repairs (e.g. hard drive), removing the battery is not necessary but it prevents any accidental shorting of electronics on the motherboard. If you do not remove the battery, please be careful as parts of the motherboard might be electrified.
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Use the tip of your finger to carefully peel back the corner of the warning label to reveal a hidden Tri-point screw.
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Remove the last 7.4 mm Tri-point screw securing the battery to the upper case.
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Lift the battery by its plastic pull tab and slide it away from the long edge of the upper case.
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Tilt the battery away from the logic board enough to access the battery cable connector.
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Pull the battery cable connector away from its socket on the logic board and remove the battery from the upper case.
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Charge it to 100%, and then keep charging it for at least 2 more hours. Next, unplug and use it normally to drain the battery. When you see the low battery warning, save your work, and keep your laptop on until it goes to sleep due to low battery. Wait at least 5 hours, then charge your laptop uninterrupted to 100%.
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If you notice any unusual behavior or problems after installing your new battery, you may need to reset your MacBook's SMC.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to carefully pry the AirPort/Bluetooth ribbon cable up off its socket on the logic board.
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Pull the camera cable connector straight out of its socket on the logic board.
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Use the tip of a spudger to pry the three antenna connectors up off the AirPort/Bluetooth board.
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De-route all three antenna cables from their channels in the AirPort/Bluetooth housing.
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De-route the camera cable from its channel in the AirPort/Bluetooth housing.
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Remove the following two screws securing the AirPort/Bluetooth housing to the upper case:
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One 3.8 mm Phillips
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One 8.6 mm Phillips
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Remove the AirPort/Bluetooth assembly from the upper case, minding any cables that may get caught.
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Remove the 8.6 mm Phillips screw securing the antenna/camera cable retainer to the upper case.
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Remove the antenna/camera cable retainer from the upper case.
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Remove two of the three 6 mm T6 Torx screws securing the right side of the display to the upper case.
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Grab the plastic pull tab secured to the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the DC-In side of the computer.
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Pull the display data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.
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Remove the 8.6 mm Phillips screw securing the display data cable retainer to the upper case.
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Remove the display data cable retainer from the upper case.
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Remove two of the three 6 mm T6 Torx screws securing the left side of the display to the upper case.
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Open your MacBook Pro so the display is perpendicular to the upper case.
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Place your opened MacBook Pro on a table as pictured.
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While holding the display and upper case together with your left hand, remove the remaining T6 Torx screw from the upper display bracket.
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Remove the last remaining T6 Torx screw securing the display to the upper case.
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Grab the upper case with your right hand and rotate it slightly toward the top of the display so the upper display bracket clears the edge of the upper case.
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Rotate the display slightly away from the upper case.
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Lift the display up and away from the upper case, minding any brackets or cables that may get caught.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
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I am trying to put the display back together but I realised that the new display from ifix it has 3 cables to conect when only two spaces are available please advice ?
Are you talking about the antenna wires? The longest two go in the same track.
The video cable in my MacBook Pro is a bit frayed. This was caused by the hinges being loose or missing screws. I replaced/tightened all the screws, but because of the fraying, the video signal is degraded. It flickers, sometimes loses some colors, or loses half its pixels.
It's finicky. If I put the bottom chassis on an close up the MacBook Pro, the video cable gets pinched enough to ensure the video degradation. However if I keep the bottom off, and keep the video cable positioned just so, not so crowded, then the video signal is fine. However the machine is not much of a laptop if you have to use it with the bottom off, without moving it.
I can get a spare video cable from a junker, but I don't have the heat lamp and suction cups, and anyway am not sure I want to attempt to dissamble the display assembly. Are there any things I can do to improve the functioning of the video cable in place, without replacing it?
I did try wrapping the frayed cable in Sugru. It did not resolve the issue.
Am I able to use the display from my mid-2009 on my 2010?
I have the exact same question: I would like to reuse the mid-2009 display on a 2010 mac book pro … I see the connections are slightly different: I don’t think the mid 2009 display has a dedicated wire for the camera (which I don’t necessary need at the end …) but I don’t know if the mid-2009 display is compatible with the 2010 motherboard ?
