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MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2009 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement

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  1. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2009 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement, Lower Case: crwdns2935265:01crwdnd2935265:01crwdnd2935265:01crwdne2935265:0
    • Remove the following ten screws securing the lower case to the upper case:

    • Seven 3 mm Phillips screws.

    • Three 13.5 mm Phillips screws.

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    • Using both hands, lift the lower case near the vent to pop it off two clips securing it to the upper case.

    • Remove the lower case and set it aside.

  3. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2009 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement, Battery: crwdns2935265:03crwdnd2935265:01crwdnd2935265:01crwdne2935265:0
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    P6 Pentalobe Screwdriver 2009 15" MacBook Pro Battery
    $5.49
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    • Remove the two 5-Point Pentalobe screws along the top edge of the battery.

    • You do not necessarily have to follow steps 3-6 to remove the battery in order to replace the hard drive. However it is recommended to remove all power sources from electronics before working on them.

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    • Use the tip of a spudger to bend back the finger of the "Warning: Do not remove the battery" sticker while you remove third five-point Pentalobe screw hidden underneath.

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    • Lift the battery by its plastic pull tab and slide it away from the long edge of the upper case.

    • Do not try to completely remove the battery just yet.

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    • Tilt the battery back enough to access the battery cable connector.

    • Pull the battery cable connector away from its socket on the logic board and remove the battery from the upper case.

    • If you're installing a new battery, you should calibrate it after installation.

  7. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2009 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement, Logic Board: crwdns2935265:07crwdnd2935265:01crwdnd2935265:03crwdne2935265:0 MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2009 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement, Logic Board: crwdns2935265:07crwdnd2935265:02crwdnd2935265:03crwdne2935265:0 MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2009 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement, Logic Board: crwdns2935265:07crwdnd2935265:03crwdnd2935265:03crwdne2935265:0
    • Use a spudger to pry the fan connector straight up off the logic board.

    • It is useful to twist the spudger axially from beneath the fan cable wires to release the connector.

    • The fan socket and the fan connector can be seen in the second and third pictures. Be careful not to break the plastic fan socket off the logic board as you use your spudger to lift the fan connector straight up and out of its socket. The layout of the logic board shown in the second picture may look slightly different than your machine but the fan socket is the same.

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    • Remove the three T6 Torx screws securing the left fan to the logic board.

    • Lift the fan out of the upper case.

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    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the left fan connector from the logic board.

    • Pry up from beneath the wires.

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    • Remove the three T6 Torx screws securing the left fan to the logic board.

    • Lift the left fan out of the upper case.

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    • The camera cable connector is not secured by any locking or snapping mechanism. Hence, Apple sticks a small strip of black plastic with adhesive applied to the side facing the logic board behind the camera cable connector to keep it in its socket.

    • When moving the strip (cable retainer) out of the way, be sure not to break any surface-mounted components off the logic board.

    • Hold the end of the cable retainer down with one finger while you use the tip of a spudger to slightly lift the other end and rotate it away from the camera cable connector.

    • Disconnect the camera cable by pulling the male end straight away from its socket.

    • Pull the connector parallel to the face of the logic board, not straight up.

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    • Disconnect the camera cable by pulling the male end straight away from its socket.

    • Pull the connector parallel to the face of the logic board, not straight up.

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    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the optical drive cable connector up off the logic board.

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    • Using the flat end of a spudger, pry the subwoofer connector straight up from the connector jack.

    • Be careful to pry the connector, not the socket. It's possible to accidentally pry the socket up from the logic board.

    • Removing the foam applied to the top of the connector will make it easier to see and avoid prying up the socket.

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    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the hard drive/IR sensor cable connector up off the logic board.

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    • Remove the two 1.5 mm Phillips screws securing the cable cover to the logic board.

    • Lift the cable cover out of the upper case.

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    • Use a spudger to pry the trackpad flex ribbon cable connector up off the logic board.

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    • Use your fingernail to flip up the locking flap on the ZIF socket for the keyboard ribbon cable. The locking flap is located at the opposite side of the socket compared to the keyboard ribbon cable. Hook your fingernail under it and carefully lift it up vertically.

    • Do not attempt to slide the keyboard ribbon cable out of its socket before you have unlocked the ZIF socket. Ribbon cables are fragile and excessive force will easily break them.

    • Use the tip of a spudger to slide the keyboard ribbon cable out of its socket.

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    • Use a spudger to pry the battery indicator ribbon cable connector up off the logic board.

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    • Remove the single 7 mm Phillips screw securing the display data cable retainer to the upper case.

    • This screw may remain captive in the display data cable ground loop. If replacing the display, be sure to transfer this screw to the new unit.

    • Remove the display data cable retainer from the upper case.

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    • Grab the plastic pull tab secured to the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the DC-in side of the computer.

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    • Pull the display data cable connector straight away from its socket.

    • Make sure to pull the connector parallel to the face of the logic board, not straight up from its socket.

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    • Using the tip of a spudger, flip up the keyboard backlight ribbon cable retaining flap.

    • Pull the keyboard backlight ribbon cable straight out of its socket.

  24. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2009 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement: crwdns2935265:024crwdnd2935265:01crwdnd2935265:01crwdne2935265:0
    • Remove the following screws:

    • Seven 3.3 mm T6 Torx screws securing the logic board to the upper case.

    • Two 8 mm T6 Torx screws securing the DC-In board to the upper case.

    • Do not remove the logic board yet! There are components on the underside of the logic board attached to the the upper case that must first be disconnected.

  25. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2009 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement: crwdns2935265:025crwdnd2935265:01crwdnd2935265:01crwdne2935265:0
    • Carefully lift the logic board assembly from the left side and work it out of the upper case, minding the port side that may get caught during removal.

    • Do not entirely remove the logic board yet!

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    • Lift the logic board enough to gain clearance and use a spudger to pry the microphone up off the upper case.

    • Slide the logic board away from the port openings and lift the assembly out of the upper case.

    • Before reinstalling the logic board, it is easiest to press the microphone down into its housing in the left speaker to keep it in place.

  27. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2009 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement: crwdns2935265:027crwdnd2935265:01crwdnd2935265:01crwdne2935265:0
    • Slide the logic board away from the port openings and lift the assembly out of the upper case.

    • Before reinstalling the logic board, it is easiest to press the microphone down into its housing in the left speaker to keep it in place.

  28. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2009 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement, MagSafe DC-In Board: crwdns2935265:028crwdnd2935265:01crwdnd2935265:01crwdne2935265:0
    • Lay the logic board on a soft flat surface with the heat sink facing up.

    • Disconnect the DC-In Board connector from the logic board by pulling it straight away from its socket.

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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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Great guide. The locking flaps in Steps 18, 21 and 23 are a little hard to decipher in the pictures. I accidentally pulled out the keyboard ribbon cable without unlocking its retaining flap, but I apparently got it in back correctly (after lifting the flap) and didn't break anything because everything works now. This has solved the charging problems I've had for years. I should be able to get a couple more useful years out of this machine now.

lurbano - crwdns2934203:0crwdne2934203:0

Great guide. For my Mid 2009 Macbook Pro, I only had one fan, so didn't have to do step 9 and 10. Also in Step 24 I had 8 3.3mm T6 Torx, not 7. Other than that was perfect!

anonymous 7084 - crwdns2934203:0crwdne2934203:0

How long did it take you Anonymous 7084?

Mauricio Toscano - crwdns2934203:0crwdne2934203:0

Very good guide. It worked out perfectly for me. It takes around 45 minutes to complete.

Terry Dillon - crwdns2934203:0crwdne2934203:0

Question: In My late model 2011 MacBook Pro is the pin port replaceable? The actual pins? It looks from the photo (step 28) as though it is adhered to the board. The receiving pins in the port in my Notebook are burning away and charging plug contact is greatly affected.

Amster Dam - crwdns2934203:0crwdne2934203:0

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