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This guide will show you how to replace the SuperDrive from your laptop (requires a SATA SuperDrive).

  1. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Late 2008 and Early 2009 Optical Drive Replacement, Access Door: step 1, image 1 of 2 MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Late 2008 and Early 2009 Optical Drive Replacement, Access Door: step 1, image 2 of 2
    • With the case closed, place the Unibody top-side down on a flat surface.

    • Depress the grooved side of the access door release latch enough to grab the free end. Lift the release latch until it is vertical.

    The A1286 has no Access Door.!!

    I actually can see no sign of the battery!...

    aguib - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    crwdns2888375:0aguibcrwdne2888375:0

    The A1286 has no Access Door.!!

    I actually can see no sign of the battery!...

    I assume you have the newer model, with the built-in battery. It's still removable with tools, but these are the wrong instructions for that model.

    lgc90 - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    when will there be a guide for the other unibody macbook pro. that does not have an access door?

    irishking - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Is there a manual to show, how disasembly the display, i mean, after step 5, to check the display between lcd and aluminiun back case?

    Max

    Max - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    On other guides you state the height of the HD that can be supported, e.g. MacBook Pro 15" Core 2 Duo Model A1211 Hard Drive Replacement , I have read ( but have not confirmed ) that the uni-body MacBook Pro can be fitted with the 750GB and 1TB 12mm drive from Western Digital.

    Can you confirm this?

    Many thanks in advance.

    ahothabeth - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    crwdns2888375:0SHerwood Ballcrwdne2888375:0

    My display and aluminum casing has separated.

    I don't know if it just snaps back together or does it need to be glued.

    I dropped mine on the carpeted stairs and the display still works.

    I'm hoping I can just snap it back together and that no plastic pieces or teeth of the snapping

    portion have been broken........

    SHerwood Ball - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    When you say "left fan" is this "left when looking at the logic board after turning the computer over and looking it up opening it up" or "left when sitting at the computer keyboard and typing on it"?

    thvv - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    We always use left and right in reference to the computer when you're using it.

    Andrew Optimus Goldheart -

    Directions were great and the worn dc in board was replaced. The hardest part of the procedure is disconnecting the data display cable. A better description of step 21 is to slide the connector parallel to the circuit board towards the outside corner. Reconnecting correctly took several tries.

    I used the tip of the spudger to nudge the corners a little at a time to seat the connector.

    The ribbon connector for the keyboard has to be inserted all the way before seating the retaining cap. It took me three tries . First try power button did not work second try numbers keys did not work.

    Thanks for the directions ...could not have done it with out them!!!

    landryd - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Hola. Poseo un MacBook Pro Late 2008 y debo cambiarle las cornetas. Me sirve unas cornetas de un MBP Late 2011?

    jegonzalez80 - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Please read the instructions about removing the bluetooth cable - you CAN work around it, and NOT take off the plug.

    kenneth krabat - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  2. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Late 2008 and Early 2009 Optical Drive Replacement: step 2, image 1 of 1
    • The access door should now be raised enough to lift it up and out of the Unibody.

  3. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Late 2008 and Early 2009 Optical Drive Replacement, Battery: step 3, image 1 of 1
    • Be sure the access door release latch is vertical before proceeding.

    • Grab the translucent plastic tab and pull the battery up and out of the Unibody.

    • If the latch is depressed it will lock the battery in place.

    Do I need to wait for the battery to charge completely before using the computer (while plugged in)?

    Kaila Potts - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    No. You do not need to charge it completely before removing it.

    Titus (#1579) - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  4. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Late 2008 and Early 2009 Optical Drive Replacement, Lower Case: step 4, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the following eight screws securing the lower case to the chassis:

    • One 5.4 mm Phillips screw.

    • Three 14 mm Phillips screws.

    • Four 3.5 mm Phillips screws.

    Hi, My name is Jess I need help asap I accidentally dropped my macbook Pro and i cant find the silver screw for the top left back side, Does any one know if I can replace it with an eye glass screw?? If you can help at all Please e-mail me at Chambliss_jess@yahoo.com thx please help me my bf is going off... ;(

    Jess - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    The fixit PH00 is the wrong screw driver for this entire job. It did not fit in the screws, it was too pointy and caused screws to be rounded off.

    mattrittgers - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  5. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Late 2008 and Early 2009 Optical Drive Replacement: step 5, image 1 of 1
    • Using both hands, lift and remove the lower case off the upper case.

    About midway along each edge is a snap. To release each snap, gently slide the flat edge of a Spudger under the lower case, then lift the lower case away.

    jonathansturges - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  6. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Late 2008 and Early 2009 Optical Drive Replacement, Optical Drive: step 6, image 1 of 1
    • Disconnect the camera cable by pulling the male end straight away from its socket.

    And in that case, I lost my camera and bluetooth connection.

    Ian Ho - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    You have to be EXTREMELY careful when detaching and reattaching this cable!!! It carries your Bluetooth, iSight camera, and Wifi connections!! I was being very careful when reattaching it and ending up either messing up the connector on the logic board or the cable itself- both cases are equally as bad. The cable doesn't snap back in or have guides, and it is therefore difficult to know if it's in as far as it needs to be, etc. If you mess up the connector on the logic board (that's what it's connecting to), you have to replace the entire logic board, and if you mess up the cable itself (it has very small, delicate metal connectors), you have to replace your entire display!! Each costs around $500/ea! I did a ton of research before embarking on this procedure and really wish someone had made a note of this prior- learn from my mistake!

    Evan Roth - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I had some difficulty getting the 'isight' cable back on. Pay close attention when you remove it as you will need to reattach the cable at an angle to get the small protrusion on the right side of the connector passed the little black plastic block that is glued onto the system board. It looks like this little block is there to keep the cable from slipping out... so it makes it tricky getting it back in.

    Andrew Gill - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Personally I would avoid disconnecting the cable from the socket as advised in this step, one should be able to proceed simply by carefully lifting the cable free from the adhesive holding it on to the optical drive.

    Like others here, I followed Step 6 as per the guide and ended up with no Bluetooth or iSight camera, due to somehow damaging the connector and/or socket, despite taking the utmost care. It is possible to carefully slip the old drive out, and a new drive in, with the cable connector in situ (at least that was the case on my Late 2008 MacBook Pro).

    Trevor - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    You can remove the small smooth block that is blocking this plug pretty easy. Once you connect the plug then you can stick that block back in place, it's just glued down.

    Melyn Vicente - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I second what Trevor wrote: it's actually pretty easy to work around the cable without unplugging the connector and, as it's extremely delicate, I therefore recommend skipping this step.

    jack - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Looking at the cable socket towards the DVD drive - to the left of the cable socket there is a small rectangular, transparent plastic piece glued to the print board. Its function is to apply pressure to the left of the plug, so that it stays in the socket. Even if you can relatively easy unplug the plug from the socket, this piece of plastic makes it impossible to re-enter the plug into the socket. So, if you can do your thing without un-plugging this cable, you are more safe.

    -

    Also, IF you decide to take the plastic piece off and glue it back on, face your tool away from the resistors and towards the DVD-drive. I did not and sheared off 3 resistors from the motherboard. Result = Dead machine. Costwise I cannot defend having it repaired, so am shipping it off in parts, as everthing else works.

    -

    But the 2 GPUs DOES make it a nifty little machine - even past Apple and general progress killing off El Capitan.

    kenneth krabat - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    BUT I found a guy, who soldered 3 resistors on for next to nothing, and now I have High Sierra running quite well on it with DosDude1's patches. Only thing is a bit choppy vid at 1080 HD watching youtube, when vid restarts after commercials, for some reason. And the speakers are crackling, but easy to fix with rubber cement, perfect.

    kenneth krabat -

    ok, this step ruined my machine. should have lokked at the comment before removing the cable

    Andreas Lepach - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  7. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Late 2008 and Early 2009 Optical Drive Replacement: step 7, image 1 of 1
    • Deroute the camera data cable from the channel in the optical drive.

  8. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Late 2008 and Early 2009 Optical Drive Replacement: step 8, image 1 of 1
    • Use a spudger to pry the optical drive connector straight up off the logic board.

  9. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Late 2008 and Early 2009 Optical Drive Replacement: step 9, image 1 of 2 MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Late 2008 and Early 2009 Optical Drive Replacement: step 9, image 2 of 2
    • Remove two 8 mm Phillips screws securing the camera cable bracket to the upper case.

    • The rightmost screw may remain captive in the camera cable.

    • Lift the camera cable bracket out from the upper case.

  10. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Late 2008 and Early 2009 Optical Drive Replacement: step 10, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the following three Phillips screws securing the optical drive to the upper case:

    • One 3.5 mm Phillips screw.

    • Two 2.5 mm Phillips screws.

    I can't remove one of the Two 2.5 mm Phillips screw, the one on the top of the picture.

    It seems to be very tight and I am using a newertechnology PH00 from my Mac repair tool kit.

    I am afraid to damage the head of the screw. What do you suggest to do?

    Thanks

    Francisco - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    You most likely need a jewelers screwdriver to remove the two 2.5 mm screws. they are very tiny and very tight

    jsjamieson33 - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    ph 000 will do the trick

    jsjamieson33 -

    The screws outlined in red are actually 3mm long.

    bmehilos - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I ruined the head of the 3.5 mm Phillips screw. What kind of screw is this (M1, M1.2, ...?)?

    Michael Domhardt - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I know this is a little late, but I found a part number from another guide. It says that all three of those screws are the same. Here is the part number for that screw: 922-8662, and here is a link to what I found on that screw: https://www.impactcomputers.com/922-8662...

    Under the "specifications" tab, it says that they are M2.

    Chase Smith -

    The top screw was locked tight for me also and I eventually stripped the phillips screw head. The only thing I could do is drill it out. Since I replaced the optical drive with an SSD, I didn't need the screw after all.

    Darren Deffner - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  11. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Late 2008 and Early 2009 Optical Drive Replacement: step 11, image 1 of 1
    • Lift the optical drive from its left edge and pull it out of the computer.

  12. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Late 2008 and Early 2009 Optical Drive Replacement, Optical Drive: step 12, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the optical drive cable by pulling it straight away from the optical drive.

    • If you have a CD or any other object jammed in your optical drive, we have an optical drive repair guide.

    One more thing - you need to remove the bracket next to the cable.

    shigmas - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  13. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Late 2008 and Early 2009 Optical Drive Replacement: step 13, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the two black Phillips #0 screws securing the small metal mounting bracket. Transfer this bracket to your new optical drive or hard drive enclosure.

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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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Walter Galan

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crwdns2917036:04crwdne2917036:0

Be extremely careful removing the drive retainer bracket screws. Stop immediately if they resist. These were extremely tight in my case, and I (carelessly) ended up stripping two, even using the correct screwdriver. Keep your extractor handy. (Apple technicians suggest the Alden Grabit-Micro.)

Michael Ahlers - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

Since 2010, My Macbook Pro's Superdrive is not work..

It is not read DVD or CD... and I can't write DVD/CD...

I fix it ;)

I cleaned the superdrive's lens with alcohol...

After I clean the superdrive's lens, my Superdrive is working!!! ;)

Thank you!

Peter - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

This was super easy. I just took mine apart and found a piece of tape lodged in it. Works great now. Thanks.

Dana Kimble - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

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