crwdns2894164:0crwdne2894164:0

crwdns2915892:0crwdne2915892:0

Use this guide to help you replace a scratched, scuffed, bent or broken bottom panel on your MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2015.

  1. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2015 Lower Case Replacement, Lower Case: step 1, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the following P5 pentalobe screws securing the lower case to the MacBook Pro:

    • Eight 3.1 mm

    • Two 2.3 mm

    The number of screws listed here is wrong on my model. I had four of the smaller size.

    anonymous 1286 - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Just to add to my comment above (I can't edit it because it's anonymous), my MacBook Pro is a mid-2015 15in model 2.8GHz (A1398; EMC2881). For the bottom case it uses six 3.1mm screws, and four 2.3mm screws at the clutch/hinge side of the MacBook Pro. I tried using a 3.1mm screw at the clutch/hinge end, as described in the main article, and they don't fit. It has to be four 2.3mm screws.

    anonymous 1286 - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    The instructions below have you basically taking ALL of the guts out of case. I’ve been doing my own apple repairs since before ifixit was a thing and this one is a handful. My battery was swelling and I wanted to remove it before it burst or bent the case so I took it out without having a replacement and it occurs to me that aside from using the solvent (liquid) to remove the adhesive, you could probably do this only taking the trackpad ribbon out. I have mine reassembled now and will research the best battery to buy but I think installation will take about 5 minutes. See if you can slip a plastic gift card under the battery and wag/saw the adhesive out without the solvent before you go through all of this. It might work. Note, don’t bend or put too much stress on the battery and certainly don’t puncture it…

    br1ansk - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Battery Recall for 15-inch MacBook Pro Retina mid-2015. Check Apple’s site for recalls, and put in your serial number. They replaced my swelling battery for free, regardless of warranty.

    Steve -

    As we are only replacing the battery, you can safely skip steps 6-26 and 28-48, no need to disassemble the computer to pull out the battery. Use nail polisher remover I was able to pull a super bloated battery out, without disassembling my MacBook.

    John Sikking -

    I’m having a problem trying to get the screws off. I have a set of pentalobe screwdriver set. I found one screwdriver that fits perfectly on one set of screws, but I am unable to unscrew it. I tried using some force pushing the screwdriver into the screw, but nothing happens. Any suggestions?

    henry_k_wong - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    All the screws on mine are the same length for some reason.

    ccfman2004 - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I would recommend the first step is: Run the battery down to ZERO before doing any next step. This reduces risk to you, people nearby, to the MBP and greatly reduces the risk of fire. Step 2 should be: Double-check that the battery is at zero.

    I like others listed below and on YouTube, disagree with these full tear down 70+ steps being the only focus. I get that I have to be careful not to get the acetone solvent near the speakers. I skipped 25+ steps by: tilting the MBP away from the speakers and using very little acetone solvent. More pressure with the plastic cards and only a few drops of solvent. While giving the full set of instructions is fine it should be very clear that you can (at the user’s own risk) do this.

    Kenneth Schleede - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    As above—I consider full disassembly to be far riskier to fragile cables and connectors than the risk for solvent spillage. I did steps 1-5 and 46-74. No issues. I HIGHLY recommend the iFixit magnetic Project Mat. It’s a white marker board surface gridded into squares and invaluable for labeling part sizes/steps in disassembly.

    philtrit - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    As above too. I benefitted from the advice. From step 51 onwards, I found a easier way using tip from China battery seller. Use a 2” width plastic scraper/plastic paint scraper to poke under the battery. Use moderate strength to poke and avoid rough handling of the battery so as not to puncture it. There is no need to pry the battery to avoid stressing it, just use a firm poking action under the battery and the double sided tape adhesive will yield. After 5 min of such poking, the entire battery pack can be removed without the hassle of pouring the adhesive remover from step 51 onwards. Get a scraper with a stronger handle so that it is more comfortable to poke.

    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32889670...

    Emma Pn - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Heads up as you go…we (husband/wife team) had a notebook that when screws/covers were removed, we marked the step # and actually taped the screws into the notebook noted by the step number. This was very helpful on reassembly and we knew we would be using the exact screw into the original screw hole.

    Ann Brainard - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    After replacing the batteries myself, I wouldn’t even consider doing it again. Not that it’s difficult to do—that’s not the issue. The issue is aftermarket batteries. I’ve been using notebooks for well over 30 years, and never had satisfaction with aftermarket batteries.

    Modern lithium batteries are an amazing technological feat, but a dangerous one. So even putting aside that I’ve never found any aftermarket batteries with quality anywhere near original, I learned “cheap” aftermarket lithium batteries are downright dangerous.

    After doing research into what’s involved with manufacturing lithium batteries, I know there are so many corners to cut, you’ll end up with junk regardless of what you pay.

    A week after replacing my batteries with those from iFixit, they showed clear signs of failure. Thank goodness iFixit refunded my money.

    After having Apple replace my batteries, everything is back to like-new. For my $199, I got not only excellent batteries, but a new keyboard and trackpad as well. That’s it’s done!!!

    AnnoniMoose - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I found an Apple Support link that said MBP battery replacement was $199, but the 2 Apple Stores near my house would not provide any appointments. Instead, I scheduled an appointment with and “Apple Authorized Service Provider” & that repair center quoted about $750 to replace the battery.

    I refused, went home, & opened a chat with Apple Support.

    After a lengthy & painful chat session where the Apple tech didn’t want to provide a battery replacement quote (he feared other issues with the MBPr), he finally gave me an Apple price of just under $650 to replace the battery.

    Did you go into an Apple store, or mail it in? I’m struggling to reconcile a price of $199 to get a battery + keyboard + trackpad against what I was just quoted 2 weeks ago. The new track pad & keyboard might have been due to repair tech error. i.e. they trashed those repairing your batter & had to toss them in.

    Bartt.Shelton@gmail.com - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I took mine in after being quoted for a $199 replacement of battery and keyboard, only to have the repair refused as they found a "water sensor" triggered and now I'm left with my AUD$5,000 laptop with messed up keys. Shame on me for not getting this repaired during COVID while under warranty. This is the first time I've truly been disappointed in Apple, but suppose it was bound to happen someday. I was quoted US$ 1479 to replace the battery and keyboard and the sensor (likely the logic board is replaced as well) if I were to send it in to the US repair center. Any chance these sensors can be triggered by humidity?

    C0RT - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I 1000% recommend watching this video and performing the battery replacement without all these steps from this guide and without using the acetone solvent. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ImonCWcc... (15" inch Retina MacBook Pro A1398 Mid 2015 Disassembly Battery Replacement Repair)

    The video is narrated well and the guy goes slow and zooms in where appropriate. Instead of removing all components, he simply removes the track pad cable, battery cable, and unscrews two of the speaker screws on each side. From there, you can lift up the speaker arms where the video guy uses a thin pry tool to push through the sticky tape. No solvent is needed except for residual sticky stuff leftover.

    Instead of the thin pry tool, I just used the plastic cards that came with this ifixit kit. It takes a little force and wiggle/jiggle so take your time using the corner of the card to start.

    This method makes a difficult 2-3hr job into a much easier 1hr job.

    Spencer - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    +1 for this approach! I watched the video that Spencer mentioned. It took me a little over an hour, and it was stress-free. https://youtu.be/ImonCWcc1xk

    Chris Wicklas -

  2. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2015 Lower Case Replacement: step 2, image 1 of 2 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2015 Lower Case Replacement: step 2, image 2 of 2
    • Lifting from the edge nearest the clutch cover, lift the lower case off the MacBook Pro.

    If you buy the entire kit, make sure you use the opening tool! I cut both of my index fingers trying to slide it off.

    Catherine Nath - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Additionally, this is an “opportunity” to clean the cooling fans - and any other obvious dust magnets - with a can of compressed air. On the laptop I worked on, the cooling fans had sufficient dust to not “spin” freely - showing signs of “drag”. After blasting each cooling fan with compressed air (including from the exhaust vent side, as hitting the fins alone wasn’t adequate), they both spin freely now. No obvious signs of battery swelling on mine, but lack of adequate airflow could have been a factor with original battery aging/failure.

    Zathras - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Good opportunity to give a good clean out. Air duster and small clean paint brush on plastic surfaces to clean up essential vents and fans. You can load fan monitor and control software to see what your your system is doing and how it improves with a clean up.

    Robin Razzell - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  3. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2015 Lower Case Replacement: step 3, image 1 of 3 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2015 Lower Case Replacement: step 3, image 2 of 3 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2015 Lower Case Replacement: step 3, image 3 of 3
    • The lower case has two plastic pegs (red) that fit into plastic clips in the upper case (orange).

    • During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the case to its two plastic clips.

    pretty hard to put it back, so I just remove the clips on the upper case....

    jamiegan835 - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    The trick to putting it back on is to guide your fingers to the same level as the clips, and then when you put the case down move your hand from the left side of the case to the right side of the case; applying pressure when you reach the area where the clips are.

    Aaron Freidus - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Impossible to put those peds into the upper case clips! It just does not hold there, it fits but just does the ‘click’ sound and goes back. Is it possible to buy those clips as spare part? Thank you for help.

    Lopez Loku - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Same for me. It just never clips, regardless of the precision and the amount of force I apply.

    Vadym Borodin - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I also think I stripped the screws holding the clips in place. Does anyone know what screw characteristics should I look for as a replacement?

    Vadym Borodin - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

crwdns2915888:0crwdne2915888:0

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

crwdns2878426:029crwdne2878426:0

Andrew Optimus Goldheart

crwdns2886885:017/10/2009crwdne2886885:0

489,808 crwdns2915208:0crwdne2915208:0

crwdns2886889:0410crwdne2886889:0

crwdns2915084:0crwdne2915084:0

iFixit crwdns2886886:0iFixitcrwdne2886886:0

Community

crwdns2858115:0147crwdne2858115:0

crwdns2886889:016,036crwdne2886889:0

crwdns2917036:03crwdne2917036:0

Do we need two different screw drivers for this or is the recommended one enough?

Jamey Rassweiler - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

You need the recommended one for the lid an a torx T5 for the screws inside

Oros -

hello i have a 2015 15” macbook pro nut i want them all custom to me so scraped off the paint to be clear back. ive seen many “clear looking stickers but they mostly look $@$*!&. have you herd of any copany selling a clearback housing and can only find stickers do you knaw any sites delling vlear hpusings?. the only other thing i can think of if have a friend #D print in clear and polish it till turns clear any ideas? i also wany yje top case vlrar slso but oe thing at a time

jae.good - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

crwdns2917038:0crwdne2917038:0

crwdns2894754:0crwdne2894754:0:

crwdns2894766:024crwdne2894766:0 14

crwdns2894768:07crwdne2894768:0 103

crwdns2894768:030crwdne2894768:0 573

crwdns2894770:0crwdne2894770:0 53,641